C-More Thoughts

[crossgun]

Pretty sure I am going to buy a C-More Railway to run on the PCC.  Guess there are a few options that I really don't understand.  Thoughts and help needed please.

 

Polymer or Aluminum body?

Standard or Click Switch?

 

I'm thinking 8 MOA dot but willing to listen.

[TeedOff]

I use a polymer click 6moa on my PCC and a poly std switch 8moa on my open gun. I don’t think the material or switch style make much difference. I like the slightly smaller dot on the carbine, but I’d imagine either would be find and you can change the dot module later if needed.


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[S&W686]

I use a polymer 8 moa C-more on my JP GMR-15.  I went with this sight because it is the same one I use on my Open Gun.  I have a standard switch on mine, but it really doesn't matter which one you have. 

[MikieM]

Mine is a Polymer, with standard switch. Dot is a 6 MOA. The 8 minute dot would be fine. 

I've never had an aluminum model because I figured the Polymer was more rugged, but I doubt that is the case. Weight is about the same, but the Polymer does come in colors for those who like to spiff up their carbines.

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: Get the 6MOA dot plastic standard model. Do yourself a favor and get the American Defense mount for it. Costs a little more than the C-More mount but it is way better built. The other bonus is that you can remove it when you clean your PCC and reattach it without loosing zero. Another option to look at is the Holosun 510C. I bought one and really like it. I think a new model is coming out so you maybe able to find one for just over $200. Thanks, Eric

[Timido]

plastic standard switch 8moa   Only problem I have ever had with it is if I leave the battery on

[jkrispies]

2 hours ago, Aircooled6racer said:

Hello: Get the 6MOA dot plastic standard model. Do yourself a favor and get the American Defense mount for it. Costs a little more than the C-More mount but it is way better built. The other bonus is that you can remove it when you clean your PCC and reattach it without loosing zero. 

+1 all around.    Hust wondering though if after getting the ADM mount you could get back he RTS2?

[Alvin]

Polymer is fine....Click switch if you don't mind spending a little more....the dot "seems" brighter on a click rather than a standard switch...but either one will work.  Have them on my three PCCs and my open gun, plus a couple of AR-15s(.223).  Never have they let me down.  Very quick on target.

[jaques]

I have 3 of the polymer bodies with 8MOA standard switch. One for a PCC and 2 for 22  rifles. I keep extra batteries on hand. And I use 2 of the 357 batteries than their one big one. Mainly because the 357 batteries are readily available at most places. 

 

[noexcuses]

20 minutes ago, jaques said:

I have 3 of the polymer bodies with 8MOA standard switch. One for a PCC and 2 for 22  rifles. I keep extra batteries on hand. And I use 2 of the 357 batteries than their one big one. Mainly because the 357 batteries are readily available at most places. 

 

another bonus of the 357's is they have a little more voltage in series so the light is just a bit brighter

[jaques]

3 minutes ago, noexcuses said:

another bonus of the 357's is they have a little more voltage in series so the light is just a bit brighter

 

You are correct!! 

[TGibe]

On 12/10/2017 at 2:46 AM, Alvin said:

Polymer is fine....Click switch if you don't mind spending a little more....the dot "seems" brighter on a click rather than a standard switch...but either one will work.  Have them on my three PCCs and my open gun, plus a couple of AR-15s(.223).  Never have they let me down.  Very quick on target.

 

I had click models on my open guns (sold them) and picked up a standard model for my PCC. I think I prefer the click and if I purchase another it will be a click model because I like the "locked in" feel of the click. IT seem like on the regular one it take me longer to get the dot right...

[gerritm]

Have both click & standard switch polymer C-Mores. Like the click better. Seems like battery life is better. Only issues was I had one on my open TN MKA 1919 shotgun and found it was losing zero. Took it off and found the polymer case cracked on the bottom at the lock screw for the elevation. Looked at the other that was on my open gun then PCC and it was cracked in the same place just hadn't started losing zero. Sent both back to C-more and they replaced the housings on both for $55 each. No warranty. I have gone to Vortex Venoms and Vipers or get the aluminum case C-more. Lifetime no BS warranty on Vortex. Several of the guys I shoot with have had the same issues with cracked cases. Now in defense of C-more I have had these for several years with absolutely no problems.

 

gerritm 

[jk_nh]

Crossgun,

I was in the exact same boat earlier this year when I got my GMR-15.  I bought a railway with aluminium body and click switch.  I know when i step to the line and turn on the optic, i turn the switch four times and the dot is at the intensity I like.

 

I also took AirCooled Racer's excellent advice and bought the ADM mount for $80 at Brownells.  Excellent mount.  It raises the optic up to a comfortable cheek weld position.  I can also fit a JP 45 degree offset mount underneath it for those tight corner shots. You'll see what I mean once you get the sight and this mount.

 

I like the 6 MOA dot but have bought an 8 MOA module just in case.  Other posters on this topic are spot-on when they write about 6 or 8 MOA dot being good to go.

 

Good luck with your decision.

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: I use a 4MOA dot for shooting indoors. Just a little better for my eyes. Thanks, Eric

[Tampa-XD45]

On 12/9/2017 at 8:24 PM, TeedOff said:

I use a polymer click 6moa on my PCC and a poly std switch 8moa on my open gun. I don’t think the material or switch style make much difference. I like the slightly smaller dot on the carbine, but I’d imagine either would be find and you can change the dot module later if needed.


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FYI re: changing dot modules ... You can put the aluminum dot in the polymer sight, but you would need to file the corners of the polymer dot to fit it in the aluminum sight.

[davsco]

i got the 6moa dot, same as my and a lot of open guns.  no click on my open gun (what it came with) but i got the click model just because for my pcc, and prefer it just for consistency of settings.  plastic bodies on both.  i did get the cmore 'tactical' mount for my pcc which has like a 1/8" spacer that gets it up a little higher.

[Screaminyz]

Anyone know if you can swap to a smaller or bigger dot module and your zero is still good?


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[Ming the Merciless]

2 hours ago, Screaminyz said:

Anyone know if you can swap to a smaller or bigger dot module and your zero is still good?


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No, changing dot modules will change the zero.  Sometimes it only changes a little bit, other times it's a big change.

[stick]

 run the Aluminum 6moa railway on my PCC.  Like most, I run two 357 batteries and keep about 6 on hand.

[AzShooter]

I have the aluminum model.  If you change dots you have to re sight in,  My battery seems to last 1 month.   I replace it right before a match  and then I know I can get in my practice but have to replace the battery before the next match.   I like the click adjustable.  I know I have to count 7 clicks to get the same intensity for each session.  I'm going to have to ty the 2 357 batteries.  Maybe they will last longer.

[MikieM]

I put two of the 357 batteries in my C-more, but accidentally got them in backwards. Now a red light shines in my eye. Damnedest thing.

[L9X25]

36 minutes ago, MikieM said:

I put two of the 357 batteries in my C-more, but accidentally got them in backwards. Now a red light shines in my eye. Damnedest thing.

 

First the projectiles, now the batteries .... I am starting to think that you have a deathwish.

[MikieM]

I did, for several years. Then we got a divorce and everything's fine now. 

[L9X25]

That explains it all, congrats!