L9X25

Not saying that your bolt is not defective, but how would an enlarged exit hole cause MORE damage to the tip?

That can work, or you can even use a sharp file. You always want to limit how far off-center is available for the hammer to hit. Anything with a large flat area allows the hammer to strike off-center. Unfortunately, I purchased 2 of the "super" pins and felt I had to make them work. Otherwise I would buy a conventional design and round the head somewhat, with a lot less effort.

I, and others, have had success by re-shaping the head so that the hammer is forced to impact the center of the pin. Having a large head allows the hammer to hit far enough off-center to induce the torque and the pin bounces around in the tunnel. My solution (I have a milling machine) was to duplicate the cut that Taccom makes on the opposite side of the head, so that you only have a strip of metal running down the center of the pin. I even beveled what was left to force the impact point to the center of the pin. All is well for months since.

The firing pin that came with the bolt was fine, until it snapped in half. The nose was never deformed. I replaced that with one of Taccom's ""super" firing pins with the huge head and the problems started. Take a look at the head of the pin and see where the hammer is hitting the pin. I will bet you see that the pin is being hit at the lower edge and that is torquing the tip of the pin upward as it goes forward. If you machine the head, to where the hammer hits the center, the pin will fly straight forward and exit without banging around in the tunnel. The banging also cause light strikes and failures to fire. All fixed after the mod.

This is just a hoax perpetuated by the clean freaks, I will continue my once a year cleaning schedule as usual.

That is exactly what I do, have ETS mags on my 50+ rounds mags and do not plan to drop any of them during the match. They work 100% for me when clean.

I am saying this mainly for Roy's benefit (I am pretty sure he has never cleaned a Glock mag, much less seen the inside of one), the Glock factory mags have small ribs that the bullets ride on. A small amount of dust or dirt will not affect the performance since the bullets do not touch the flat inside of the mag body. The ETS have no such ribs, so the bullets literally ride on the flat inside wall of the mag body. Any dirt or sand will impede the smooth function of the ETS mags.

ETS magazines require that you keep them clean, they don't tolerate dirt like the Glock factory mags do. Other than that, my Taccom and TF base plates work fine with ETS.

I purchased one of the minimalist stocks, based on the weight, and hated how the cheek weld felt. I went (back) to the SOPMOD style stock (with the battery compartments) because it offers a comfortable and consistent cheek weld and I don't notice the weight that is behind the grip. The weight beyond the grip is what you feel most when swinging the gun.

One thing to remember is that a comp, any comp, only takes a percentage of the recoil out. Adding more power will increase the recoil, even if the comp/brake becomes more effective at the higher power factor. IMO the best way to achieve both goals is to load the lightest projectile you can find, with a slower powder, and aim for the usual 130pf with that. It will produce more gas to operate the comp more efficiently without creating additional recoil for the comp to have to offset.

I cannot recommend a reamer because both of may barrels were already "throated" to accept long ammo from the factory.

The "safe bets" are JP and Hiperfire. I prefer the yellow springs in my JP and have no problems setting off rifle or pistol primers with that combination.

Just wait until the JP comes in and she decided that she likes it better than the PSA!

My wrench did not fit super tight on the Taccom nut, so I wrapped a layer of aluminum A/C tape over the nut first and it tightened the fit and reduced the damage to the nut.

^ What he said and make small changes. I would go up 2/10 gr and chrono again. I think that I am at ~27 fps per 1/10 gr with WSF and my 95's.

I approached it from the other side, my loads were initially hotter than I wanted with WSF. However, when developing my Tite Group loads I duplicated Eric's load and it was WAY too slow in my barrel. I was at ~800 fps and the cases were black soot covered as if they had been in a fire. I increased the powder charge and they became much cleaner. Not that TG was ever clean.

You need to bring up the speed/pressure and the cases will seal better and clean up some. You are at ~ 120PF as you are.

Initially, I did not think that I was going to like the small diameter of the Taccom HG. After shooting with it, I actually prefer it to the larger diameter models. The large HG's obviously have a purpose, but if you do no intend to mount accessories to it, the small is very comfortable.

I cannot tell you what is causing your problem, but I duplicate the majority of your variables and do not share your problem. My barrel is also throated to feed 1.170 OAL and they will spin in the chamber, I am loading with WSF, loading to 1.100", loading 95gr FMJ projectiles. This load works in my JP barrel and also in my Taccom (which is also throated to spin 1.170" projectiles). Since my projectiles do not set-back when feeding, I do not worry about the crimp. If set-back were the problem, I would expect you to have random fast projectiles, not slow ones.

My book says 4.8grs of WST goes 1,025 out of a 5" pistol barrel, so you will have to drop that load a little. I am not sure that 3.3 will be enough. When going super light, be careful not to stick a bullet in the barrel. It may be safer to start with a load that is faster than your goal (while still way below max load) and work your way down.

I agree, but I was responding to statement that claimed otherwise.

During the last big Primer scare (late 90's?) I purchased a box of WLR since they were the only primers available. I loaded 100 and they seemed to have slightly different dimensions and caused issues with my 10mm based pistols. They seemed to load with a "high primer" profile and my pistols did not have enough hammer energy to reliably ignite them. I considered the experiment a failure and did not try them again.

They are not "needed" for minor loads at all. However, you can purchase small rifle primers for the same price as small pistol and they can be used for major or minor, they are universal. Small pistol primers can generally only be used for minor loads. If you load major and minor, and buy components in bulk, would you want to buy one primer that can be used for anything, or one that is only usable in some loads? The only real reason to choose small pistol is because they have a softer cup and can ignite with less force from the firing pin. If you have sufficient energy to ignite rifle primers, any advantage to the small pistol is eliminated.

Hiperfire triggers, because of their design, have higher hammer energy that most any other trigger. They have the usual mainspring, and they have 2 coil springs which initially counteract the mainspring and then pivot to where they supplement the impact energy.

Exactly. The majority of what I loaded was Major power factor and that necessitates rifle primers. One the rare occasion that I wanted to load 9mm or .40 cal minor I would just use the rifle primes and, while unnecessary, they worked perfectly there too.