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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

stick

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About stick

  • Rank
    Burned Out
  • Birthday 03/27/1968

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Port St Lucie, Florida
  • Interests
    USPSA, Steel Challenge, Multigun, 3Gun, Hunting & Fishing
  • Real Name
    Michael Scott

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  1. If you already have a lower, I would look at Taccom. I'm not sure of his stock , Tim is a member on the forums and lurks from time to time. He makes great stuff at reasonable prices. I have 3 of his barrels for my PCC's
  2. If you have the 550 and are upgrading to the 750 you should be fine with the casefeeder and Mr bullet feeder. My MBF is in station 3 on my XL650 which is fine without the powder check die if you are experienced in reloading. If not, or you use a small volume powder (titegroup) get into the habit of looking into every case.
  3. I guess you're resurrecting a 8 year old post because you couldn't find any new content to post on?
  4. Same headstamp on the brass? I will allow .03 +/- on my XL650 will Lee dies because of mixed brass. With the same brass, I would expect much better results. As for the powder, I don't see many variations on my drops. Acceptable for me on powder drops would be .01 +/- but the powder I use on my XL650 meters extremely well.
  5. CED/DAA makes waterproof targets. $675 for 500. You're better off using bags to cover the targets.
  6. ^^This^^ One of the clubs I shoot at did this. It works great and it's easy to setup and tear down. Painted the caps red to easily identify the spots.
  7. I know a lot of people who do this. One source of primers for both rifle and pistol, nothing to mix up. Rifle primers are usually harder than pistol.
  8. I would start over again with the dies. I would install the die and adjust slightly to get a very small amount of flair, then I would seat the bullet. After seating the bullet, I would pull the bullet and look for signs of the case being under-fliared (bullet scraping off etc.) I would also use my calipers and measure the case flair before and after the flairing. Since you are not using a progressive press (assuming single stage?) It doesn't matter if the bullet doesn't sit correctly. just hold the bullet onto the case until it goes into the die. I do this on my single stage when loadi
  9. If I'm processing brass and not loading it, I put in a swage it on station 2 once I remove the priming pin. I use both one in the press when I'm strictly processing 223 brass. Universal decapping die in station 1, Swage it tool in station 2, Rt1500 full length size and trimmer in station 4. When I'm reloading 223, I go slow and reload mostly by feel. If I feel a primer getting stuck or not wanting to prime smooth, I remove the brass and use a reamer to ream it out. I then re-insert the primer into station 2, then insert the brass and try again. I'm cheap and hate rui
  10. Hmm. But it doesn't do it with the Dillon die installed. Thankfully, I've never encountered that issue with my XL650. What about the indexing spring that goes around the bottom of the shell plate? (indexer return spring) I had one bend and it gave me fits until I replaced it.
  11. stick

    Primers

    Darn...$400 per 1k. If I only had a hazmat shipping license. First post and no personal info entered on the profile. Good luck with that. You might have a better chance tugging on someones heart strings.
  12. Are you the same snowshooze that sells all the wonderful aftermarket parts for the Dillon on Ebay?
  13. Interesting technology for sure. From reading their description, you don't need anything special to initially load the cases. You are only required to use their dies for reloading.
  14. Different brass will have different primer pockets if that make sense? I usually swage the brass and use a reamer. Also on my 650, I'm not worried about speed when priming 223 brass. If I feel the primer getting stuck, I usually pull the case and ream it a little more...put it back and continue on.
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