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Showing results for tags 'magazine'.
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Is hard chrome for magazines a thing anymore? I’d like to have this or some other durable coating done to my Sig magazines. I’m wondering if the mags, if already close to 140mm, would still fit The Gauge. Any suggestions or issues with doing so?
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Mag well report. 04/11/22 by AP All initial testing done with PD parts and Tanfoglio Stock Master in 9mm from PD. Zero internal extra parts all stock internals. Some testing is from personal hand fitment. Phenomenal machine work. IFG frames fit flawless zero blending Eric Xtreme grips need fitting to work with it (had to cut and fit mine ) Been slamming reloads like hell with it. Magwell "auto corrects" better than Toni System. A small hands version without relief cuts for better Traction (maybe diamonds cut) would be a nice option. I have zero play or wiggle. Screw stays tight without loctite. The lines and anesthetics match and flow with the 2021 Stock Master frames perfect. Rating from lots of Dry Fire with PD pads since aquired DF. 10/10 looks 10/10 function 10/10 fit to frame 8/10 personal hand fit and other non pd grips MAY need fitting 10/10 transitions and smoothness 9/10 auto correct. Very few hangups with PD well. 20/10 for speed increase 9/10 for material hardness and marklessness. 10/10 for several base pad fitments. Fit all, Taylor Freelance, Patriot Defense, Henning Gen1/2, Shock Bottle, etc. In summary; The Patriot Defense Magwell for Tanfoglio Large frames is the go to top editor rated pick for a magwell. I have tried EVERY magwell on the market to include Toni System, EGW, Tanfoglio Unica, Tanfoglio extreme and Tanfoglio Gold Team Eric. This Patriot Defense magwell tops them all in Function, fitment, and anesthetics. Second pick would be Toni System. I highly recommend for Divisions in USPSA/IPSC/3G. Open and Limited etc.
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Had a round jam in my 10/22 this week on a stage in a monthly SCSA match... The bullet lodged in the magazine and seemed to be jammed against the magazine's feed lip... wouldn't eject... when I removed the round it had a semi-circular notch in the top of the bullet. It's a standard Ruger clear 10 round rotary magazine... I've cleaned and shot it previously and it worked fine... After looking at the magazine I noticed that the metal feed lips are pretty rough... Wonder if it would help to polish the ramp surface with some fine sandpaper? Also wondering about the TandemKross nylon feed lips... Would they be smoother than the metal feed lips? Worthwhile upgrade?
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Hi all, I just got a sweet new Safariland backpack range bag. Overall I'm happy with it. However, there is no built in storage for 1911 magazines. What do all you Stinky Stack folks on here use to store mags in your range bag? Thanks, Beaker
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ANYONE SEEN THIS? CZ SP01 AS IT CAME FROM THE FACTORY - AFTER APPROX 6,000 9MM, USING CZ MAGAZINES - MAGAZINE RELEASE DOES RELEASE THE MAGAZINE BUT NO LONGER EJECTS THE MAGAZINE. SAME FOR ALL 8 MAGAZINES. THOUGHTS?
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I have a Tanfoglio Limited Custom .40S&W with an IPSC box conform setup. I use K40 magazines with Grams spring/follower and Xtreme Base Pads. This setup holds 18 rounds. I didn't cut off any coils and the springs are new. Unfortunately, I ran into an issue that prevents the mag from a free drop. After firing a round the top round in the magazine travel forward and stuck on the ramp. See also picture below. I already polished the underside of the slide and broke the edge on the front which catches the round in the magazine. I have no clue what causes this issue.
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I currently have Springer Precision extended base pads (Xdm 5.25" .40sw) with Grams spring and follower. My issue is, sometimes the spring or follower (can't tell which) will get stuck and the ammo in the mag just pours out thus causing my gun to malfunction and ruining a stage. I'm guessing the follower tilts sideways and just jams up the mag. How f*#king annoying. What do ya'll do to combat this? Will the Springer Precision follower and spring fix this issue? Though, it does look to be the same profile as Grams just machined out of aluminum. Another thing, one of the screws on the SP basepads won't back-out...how the hell do I take it off? Is it a lost cause? Should I get TTI extended base pads? Will TTI base pads work with SP follower and spring? Should I just stick to whatever spring kit TTI comes with in order to have that extra reliability even though I'm losing that one extra round capacity? What's inside a black hole? Do black hole lives matter? So many questions - what do ya'll suggest? -
Hey guys and gals, I have a mag issue I need some advice on. I bought a used STI executive 2011.40 it came with 2 old style SVI tubes and Dawson bases .I then switched the plastic stock grip with a xtreme shooters DVC style grip that's Gray. I then bought four Brazsos tuned magazines and so far they have been running great. I don't use the old SVI tubes because the trigger pull is really hard. Today while practicing one of the Brazos mags started messing up. Again a hard trigger pull. Will tubes change dimension over time? Is that simply and overtravel stop issue? Has anyone else experienced an exceptionally hard trigger pull with different mags? Could my grip be warping? Thank you in advance for your help.
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Has any one gotten their hands on the new STI mag tubes and if so what do you think. I want to replace a couple of my older mags and am looking at either these or MBX. I am shooting 38SC in a std SVI plastic Grip.
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Has any one gotten their hands on the new STI mag tubes and if so what do you think. I want to replace a couple of my older mags and am looking at either these or MBX. I am shooting 38SC in a std SVI plastic Grip.
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What is everyone doing for replacement mag springs? The wolff springs do not fit the bottom locking floor plate. Is there a certain replacement spring to use or a specific modification to make the Wolff replacement springs work with the standard K9 17 round 9mm magazines. -
Hey everyone, I am in the process of setting up my belt with my holster and magazine holders, and have a question for everyone. I'm going to be running in the Production division, so I have limits to where my magazine holders can be located. I found that having my holders angled slightly forward helps with quicker reloads. Does anyone else have their production setup with angled magazine holders, whether it's forward or backward? Thanks for reading and future comments.
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Hi all, I'm building a 2011 based on a CK frame, STI grip, Fusion firearms slide and Kart barrel. So far it's been a lot of fun and quite the learning experience; this is my first 1911 style gun. I just put in the followers and they seem to be tilting to the side, pointing upwards too much(?), and catching on the slide when in the gun and pushing forward. MBX Extreme tubes, springs, and G25 followers; all non-slide stop. I was planning to do the things mentioned in these two videos; is this an okay plan? Mostly just dremeling the follower and bending the springs (though it doesn't seem to do all that much, the little that I've tried on the 3rd mag). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1EclEpJc-g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLC8KEqY9Nc From looking around, mag tuning seems to be something inherent with the 2011's. I'm mostly concerned with how the follower seems to be sitting pretty high up and forward in the mag; not sure how to correct for this. Thanks for any advice.
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My magazines for my Limited Para (Para body, Dawson Basepads) need to be rebuilt. But Grams does not sell a "Follower Kit" for Para. What follower/spring combination would you recommend for Para mags?
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Friends, Wanted to share some of my own findings with you regarding Sig magazine extensions. Right now, the three non-Sig metal extensions that I am aware of are Apex, Taylor Freelance, and TRT, also pictured is the Sig 20 round SWAT German magazine. All of the magazine extensions have been mounted on MecGar 20 round magazines. These are slightly longer and allow proper fitting, especially if using the TRT Maxwell. The Taylor Freelance for sure will not work on a regular Sig magazine; it will not seat.
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Has anyone of you experiences these two magazines regarding matching accuracy and quallität? My experience is that the STI Magazine are simpler and easier to adjust. The quality is better and a Grams Spring Folower kit goes to work faster properly.
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I noticed E-Gunparts is stocking some "factory" Pro Custom (wide-body) magazines. These are pretty inexpensive and nice to have for mandatory reload stages and such ... https://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1410270.htm https://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1410290.htm
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Does anyone know where I can find these aluminum base pads for large frame mags in the United States. They are +0 capacity for production. I saw on the Italian Tanfo site, they show them as AC002 aluminum base pads, that goes all the way to the front of the grip and gives you somewhere to put you pinky, which for some reason none of the aftermarket ones these days do. I'm talking about the straight sided ones, not the tapered ones that are clearaced to fit the magwell that comes with the limited's. http://www.tanfoglio.it/shop/accessori/custodie-e-valigette/ac003-aluminium-pad-cal-9x21-40s-and-w-clone-2.html
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Just discovered that my .40 10 rounder won't seat in my Edge that has the factory mag well. Can anyone suggest a thinner or smaller base pad that might solve this problem? Thanks.
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Yesterday's match went decently well except for a couple bizarre technical difficulties which I didn't see coming. First USPSA of the year and I'm using my trusted G34. Only catch that hadn't been a problem till now, it was made in 2003--and so were the two 10 round mags that came with it. A wear issue I'd not previously been made aware of is that the mag floorplates can come loose all at once when they've had enough and are past their life of 100% trouble free use. To my knowledge there is or was no advance warning of this. Now this isn't cheap knockoff mags, but Glock OEM mags. I'm shooting production so I carry 6 mags with me b/c you have to change them so much to keep from running dry, so 4 are new 17's and 2 are the 10's. So I reach the end of a stage after lots of mag changes and I grab at random one of the 10's, give it a good hard seating, and I hear a very weird sound and the gun feels oddly lighter. I look at it and the magwell is open...with a bottomless mag in it! The only thing I can think of to do is shoot one of the last targets in the array to empty it, because my mind is so boggled by this I don't have any other plan. I actually took the shot strong hand only because...uh...because...uh, somehow my support hand should be doing something...I don't know what, I was in total derp land. After I finish, I find the base plate and tab but not the spring or follower. The RO asks me if I always seat my mags that hard or did this one especially hard. I said I seat them all the same way, rifle and pistol, and have never seen nor heard of this so I don't have anything to compare it with. Two stages later it happens again, with the other 10 round mag. At the end of that stage there was a table underneath the shooting position so I hear the ammo hit the table, audible enough so that my video camera picks it up. Last mag since I was down to 5 anyway, so I take a mike on the last target. At least now I find the spring and follower, so I can put one mag back together to still have 5. Stage after that, a round nosedives in the mag so I get a bad jam up and don't even finish the stage. Mag malfunctions SUCK!!! Check the date and/or condition of your mags!
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Hi! I’ve owned a Match full size steel frame 45ACP for two years now. It’s been a great pistol but it took some work to get it there. The first issue I had was light strikes. I tried a variety of ammo but continued to have fail to fire issues. The problem turned out to be the firing pin and the auto safety built into the slide. The safety pin that contacts the body and blocks the firing pin had caused a metal fleck to be sheared off of the pin. Clearing this helped but after a few hundred more rounds the light strikes returned. The ultimate cure was the Henning firing pin. It’s longer, lighter and harder. I was not able to fit it and continue to use the auto slide safety so the stock safety pin, spring and firing pin creating the metal flecks were removed. I have not had a failure to fire since, so I feel very confident in the pistol now. The new Henning firing pin always slides free and easy when I test it with a punch. I also replaced the sear with a Henning sear which using a tip I found on the web was relatively easy. Cutting the shaft of a q-tip the same width as the sear to hold the spring while reinserting the sear was the key. I had to file the arm of the sear that intersects the safety lever to fit it properly. The trigger is crisp and the harder alloy should help keep that crispness longer. One issue I am still dealing with is sighting. I purchased a laser built into a 45ACP round. It projects a spot near were the bullet hits to the far right of the center straight line of the pistol frame. The pistol shoots far right. I clamped it and fired 27 rounds all to the right. I have had to adjust the rear sight all the way to the left to compensate. I can hit leaves floating in the stream 25 yards up and down from my position quickly turning from up to downstream so I feel confident in the pistol is acting as a natural extension of my arm. It hits what you point at. I would like the trajectory of the bullet to be parallel to the frame of the pistol. Would a barrel swap affect this? I have read that slight changes to the exit point at the muzzle and the rifling at that point can have a big impact on the direction the bullet leaves the barrel. Is there a guide to tweaking the barrel end/rifling to adjust the bullets trajectory as it leaves the barrel? With the rear sight adjusted to its extreme left the pistol is sighted but in darkness during quick fire I fall back to using the frame of the pistol to aim. I would like to have the trajectory parallel. There is also the aesthetics to consider. The rear sight looks pretty stupid cranked all the way to the left. I have purchased 7, 10 round magazines. None of them hold ten rounds. After breaking in they still will not fit 10 rounds. If you try the gun will jam as the 10th round is too tight in the magazine. I cut one coil from the magazine spring and shaved the base plate with the Dremel to achieve 10 rounds. The other issue is with laser/light options attached under the frame. All that I have purchased have failed by 50 rounds due to the shock of firing. The accessory rail pealed right through the plastic on one of the cheaper ones. Please recommend a red laser and a red laser/light combo you know will endure the shock of this pistol. Green lasers are ok for daylight but give away your position at night. Thanks! ~Kevin.
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I have 3 brand new STI 140mm 9mm mags I just bought. I pulled them out yesterday to load them for a steel match and they all had a light coating of surface rust. I would think this is not normal considering they are supposed to be stainless steel. I used them a few times for practice and shot one match with them. Never used them in the rain and they have never hit wet ground. I have two older mags that were stored in the same mag pouch and those did not have any rust on them...only the new ones did. Has anyone else experienced this?
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I just got a Versa Max Tactical and want 9+1 capacity. What would be the best way to accomplish this? Cheapest way? Thanks in advance!
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This happened during an all-steel match, no sleep, long drive, bad coffee, etc., etc., and I kept telling myself that I just needed to have a solid first run to shake off the grogginess and have a killer day. First stage was something like doubles on 5 torso plates at 10 yards- super easy, super fun. *BEEP* Ba-Bang!Ba-Bang!BangClick! Tap-Rack-Click!-Tap-Rack...cue Sad Trombone... I know it wasn't a round flipped by a dropped mag as it was my first stage of the day. It was however, a new mag that I put into rotation and have since taken out. I would really like to think I'm smart enough to avoid tossing a round in backwards, but here's evidence to the contrary. Even if it was a round flipped by a sticky follower, it's my bad for assuming new gear works on game day. The result is certainly the same. So, that's how I really learned to not use a match to test out new stuff, and learned to check my mags for round nosed copperish things through the round count holes.
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Hey all, So I have been shooting my new eagle for a few months now, and have been shooting a self tuned 140 mag made with STI tube, Grams guts, steel spacer and Dawson aluminum basepad. I use this magazine specifically as my first mag because it holds more than the rest, so it frequently gets dropped. I just recently noticed that the steal spacer is apparently hammering into the aluminum base pad with every reload. There is now a very obvious mark on the inside and out side of the base pad, and it appears a crack is starting to form on the outside of it. Has anyone ever seen this happen before? Is there any solution? I did notice there is a little play of the spacer when the magazine is empty (up and down). Should I be worried of this destroying my basepad? Do I need to switch back to the factory plastic spacer? Is there any real difference between he steel and plastic ones. Maybe some way to keep the spacer affixed semi-permanently to the mag tube to keep it from hitting the base pad? -Eli
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