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scottlep

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About scottlep

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    Calls Shots

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    Green Lane, PA
  • Real Name
    Scott Lepping

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  1. Here is a new version where I removed the specs and recommended tolerances . Download and print the PDF version. 1911_builders_slide_fitment_sheet.pdf
  2. I highly suggest doing one of the Brazos Zig Rackers (http://www.1911store.com/slide-racker-bcg-zigracker.aspx). They are held in the slide with ball detents instead of set screws. The ones with set screws, like the Sidewinder, always come loose and eventually strip out. I have done many of these racker cuts for other shooters using my mill. Where are you located?
  3. Yes. I agree. I actually have a 1911 slide and frame on the way from them. After the last few builds I have done using STI parts, I am hesitant to use their parts due to the very poor QC.
  4. Yes, I definitely wasn't using any of the "Frame Blue Print Specs" or their recommended tolerances. I was just using the drawing part to note the specs of the parts I am fitting. Considering the sheet was "borrowed" from an 80% 1911 builder site, I wouldn't trust much of what's on it. If you notice it says "Slide Back End View", but the ejector cut is on the wrong side. Which brings me to the next topic.....who in their right mind would want to build an 80% 1911? I have a hard enough time finding consistent quality in the frames and slides from the manufacturers that know what the are doing (supposedly). One pin hole off by .001" and your trigger is crap because the geometry it off. Frame rails cut out of square.....nevermind.....I will leave that discussion for another thread.
  5. I thought this might be helpful to some new 1911/2011 builders. I used to just do horrible drawing of the profile of the slide and frame and then note the measurements. Once I found this it has made things a bit easier. Great for taking your measurements before fitting slide and frame. 1911_builders_slide_fitment_sheet.pdf
  6. If contamination was the cause I would think that I would have way more problems. There is no water or oil kept anywhere near my reloading equipment. My equipment is also in an extremely clean room where I run a dehumidifier to keep the room at about 35 percent humidity. I am loading on a Dillon 650 with brass feeder and bullet feeder. My brass is dry tumbled and I inspect all brass after tumbling to look for cracked cases, rocks in cases, berdan primer brass, etc. The only part of my reloading process that is probably slacking is checking the primers in the flip tray before I load them into the tubes.....which I will be paying much more attention to in the future.
  7. Primer looked fine. As I said, after the first incident I loaded a new batch of ammo. I checked every single round and also case gauged every round in a 50 round EGW case gauge where I checked for high primers, crushed primers, etc.
  8. Anyone else have recent problems with possible bad Federal Small Pistol Primers? So, for the third time in a row when I am out practicing, I have gotten what sounds like a squib. When I clear the gun and the brass extracts, a full load of powder spills out of the brass and all into the mag and bottom end of the gun (see pictures) and I have to remove the bullet from the barrel with a squib rod. After the first time a few weeks ago I took all that ammo and set it aside and loaded a whole new batch watching extremely carefully that the cases had powder, primers were seated correctly, etc. It also basically ends that practice for the day since so much powder is all in the gun that I have to take it back home and do a full cleaning so it will run correctly again. I am started to get irritated since I have 10,000+ primers that are all from the same lot and a thousand or so rounds loaded with those primers, all of which I would not trust at a match. Just wondering if anyone else has had similar issues? I recall a somewhat well known shooter posting something similar on Facebook back in the fall, but don't recall what primers he was using. Not that it matters, but this is loaded on a Dillon 650 and the gun is a 9mm 2011 Open gun.
  9. Do both guns have the same shape firing pin stop? Meaning are they both rounded off where it cocks the hammer or is maybe the CK squared and the Trubor is rounded? Most STIs I have seen come with a rounded. Not sure what CK uses. If the CK is squared, or not as rounded as the STI, that will make a huge difference in the amount of force needed to rack the slide/cock the hammer. Many smiths and shooters will play with the shape of the firing pin stop to change how the gun feels during recoil since a more squared firing pin stop will take more force to cock the hammer, thus slowing down the slide much earlier in the recoil cycle. Difference in the force needed to rack the slide could also be the difference between say a 15lb and 18lb main spring. Just throwing some things out there to check that haven't been mentioned yet.
  10. I had a Gold Team for a while in 38SC. Shot awesome, but took a ton more powder to make major due to the V12 porting. Parts are expensive and hard to come by. You can get the triggers pretty nice in the Tanfos, but never as nice as a 1911/2011. I am pretty sure the lack of parts in the USA and lack of competent gunsmiths to work on them is why you don't see them being used more often. I went back to the 2011 platform after a few matches and sold the Tanfo.
  11. Here is link that lists ZZ and DT, but not TT. Lots of other good stages there if you want to set up some Outlaw stages. My Google-foo turned up nothing for Triple Threat, but I will keep trying as not you have me interested in seeing it. http://www.handgunsports.com/AMERICAN-SP.HTM
  12. If you are talking about the marks on the very bottom of the ramp then make sure that area is not contacting your mags. That section of the ramp should be to be flush with the ramp in the frame when the slide is locked back. If it isn't then it may be coming back and making contact with the mags when the gun is cycling out of battery. The contact with the mag could shift the mag and cause feed issues.
  13. I am a big fan of all EGW parts, but for a high ride safety I use the Wilson 6S "Wide Competition Lever". I have them on all of my 1911s and 2011s. I ride my thumb on my safety while I shoot and never any issues with strength.
  14. Looks alot like Max Michel's older Steel Challenge Open gun. Also looks similar to Max's new gun he had built this year. Max's is a single stack in 38SC, but this gun looks alot like it. Slide cuts are very similar and the single line down the top of the slide is almost a dead giveaway. Bedell does all of Max's 1911/2011s.
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