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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Benevolence

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    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday June 29

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    Denver, CO
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    Byron McArthur

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  1. Just my opinion, those seem to be the sliding contact surfaces and contact of blued steel on blued steel while racking with the recoil spring in would do that. Maybe I’m not seeing the rounded surfaces indicative of not properly fit. If that’s DLC or something then something is absolutely wrong. I wouldn’t expect bluing to hold up to much wear at all and it doesn’t look like very smooth mating of surfaces which will only hasten it. All that said, for the price paid, that doesn’t seem acceptable. They need to get a better surface treatment, especially if that’s a 4340 and not 416R. At least a salt nitriding.
  2. Huh. Ya that’s weird. Mine worked on crap steel case. Not a single error in the 750 rounds I shot. I’d try reassembling and cleaning the striker assembly and channel.
  3. I believe they're all the same but if there's an option, G17 should do fine. I believe it's G17 as well for recoil spring as well but check the big Upgrades for Competition thread
  4. Yep! 3lb glock striker spring was a direct drop in for me with no light strikes.
  5. Benevolence

    Steel Cased Ammo?

    I’m in a similar boat. Was able to get 750 rounds of the Winchester steel case from Natchez but I shot it in one day thinking things were going to get better. Now I can’t find anything and am tempted to finally get a Dillon 750 because I can’t even shoot for less than 30cpr. And FWIW, my P-10F ate all of it without a hiccup; even had lower recoil and a 3lb striker spring in without any issues.
  6. Whew okay. No problem haha. I was spooked because I had just drilled the hammer and sear holes for an 80% and am still fitting the rest of the parts.
  7. I hope I’m not mistaken I thought the plunger tube holes were 0.076” above the slide stop hole?
  8. No problem. I recommend you get the two Kuhnhausen 1911 books (they can be ‘acquired’ online as PDF’s too) if you’re going to start tinkering.
  9. They’re located referenced to the slide stop hole; the hammer hole is 0.016” above and sear hole is 0.252” below. So, 0.268” nominally.
  10. Hi all, I’m working on fitting a kkm threaded 355 bull barrel to a fusion slide and stuck at 0.034” locking lug engagement. The lug recess on the barrel and slides are on approximately 0.055” and I’ve got the hood fit. From looking at wear marks from fitting as well as looking online, it appears the barrel near the muzzle end needs fitting to allow it to engage more. Also, the barrel appears to engage the lower side of the slide more when locked up. My question is, do I remove material from the barrel upper or lower sections highlighted (poorly) with a sharpie (nevermind near the locking lug though), or from the lower surface of the slide that interfaces with the underside of the barrel. If the answer is the barrel, do I use a file or is a lathe necessary? I was thinking to use a dowel and sandpaper (320-1200 grit) to grind down the lower barrel support section of the slide near the muzzle. I’ve done a kart ez bushing barrel and it was somewhat painless. The guy at kkm said just to remove material from the lug recess but that is not the limiting feature it appears.
  11. Got the bottom milled out and dremeled the top round to fit with the frame but still has a bit of a shelf for thumb webbing. Taped the frame off and JB welded first layer to blend out the frame fitting. Ugly as sin but feels better. Drilled out 2x 3/32” holes for the cross tension pins however I’m not thrilled with how little plastic is left on the frame to hold it on. Also having done a JB weld & 36 grit on my M&p, and how beat up my hands got, I am going to try some hockey tape, and it will help hold the tungsten backstrap on as well. At this point I’ll have created two abominations, never mind my 2011’s. Next up is lightening the slide, sending it out to Primary Machine for SRO cut, and getting the tungsten guide rod with 1911 springs on. Hoping this total adds on 12oz or so to the frame and take a few off the slide. I shot the gun first time this weekend, without the tungsten modifications though. Did 750 rounds of that Winchester steel case crap and no hiccups. Very happy with the lowered recoil and striker springs. Maybe a bit too low on the recoil though; it seemed to come back high on target. If anyone is wanting to do a tungsten backstrap, ebay has some bucking bars for $30 that you can cut between the countersunk holes and have a perfect length. I did an Archimedes water test and it’s close to 19g/cc, so I think they’re the 90% tungsten, ~5 & 5% copper/nickel.
  12. How does the cone-comp setup work? Do you put it on a bushing non-threaded barrel with silver solder and the end of the cone is threaded or part of the compensator? As for titanium, it should stop sparking once it’s oxidized a bit; if fresh unoxidized titanium is exposed to air it does that. Actually a hazard for the titanium powder in additive manufacturing with it. The right part of the flame with a bit of heat should make it stop right away, if it bothers you.
  13. Got the tungsten backstrap started today. 8.6oz and going to put some cross pins on top and bottom then build it up to the grip profile with some jb weld then 36 grit finish. Got to mill the bottom flush as well.
  14. I feel like the way the M&p fire control group works allows it to have a better trigger than a P-10F or a glock. That said, the HBI trigger and some springs have really gotten the trigger to where I’m happy with it; very close to the M&p with apex. That said, I like the grip and slide better on the p10.
  15. Great, thank you! I just went through all my mags (OEM base plate) and pushed in as much as I could and still didn't get them to touch. I definitely see how a rear relief cut could make it a non-issue with mag extensions that may not go as high on the tube. I almost think at this point I'd be better off using $240 towards practice ammo than +3/4 on my mags. Hoping to get that tungsten backstap done tomorrow
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