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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About Benevolence

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    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday June 29

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    Denver, CO
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    Byron McArthur

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  1. Tl;dr: Cryotreating may help the spring retain its initial tension over time, depending on alloy and heat treatment. It may also help fatigue life, as previously mentioned, but again depends upon the alloy and heat treatment. Nerd answer: Performing cryogenic heat treatments are for highly alloyed martensitic steels (or martensitic stainless steels). During the quenching process from the austenite temperature (varies by alloy composition, ~900°C), there is a phase transformation into martensite. This occurs over a temperature range known as "Martensite start" and "Martensite F
  2. They make a “Big Hand” model that has a radius on the sides and (I believe) a chamfer on the back. Alternatively just take a belt sander or file to fit it to your liking.
  3. Mine was quite oversized as well. I wasn’t very happy when I learned how fitting a bull barrel can be so much more difficult than a bushing barrel for the lockup engagement but that’s another rant.
  4. Just sharing some updates on my abomination. Excited to shoot it! 8oz tungsten backstrap, hockey tape, lightened slide, 5moa SRO, Henning pads, HBI trigger and some glock springs. Still need to make that 3+oz tungsten guide rod with 1911 recoil springs.
  5. I had pretty good luck with two Ed Brown Fully Machined Memory Groove Beavertail Grip Safety's on my 2011 builds. You may have some blending to do and filing on the tab but it seemed as close to 'drop-in' as you'll get.
  6. Glock triggers only have the striker partially cocked when in battery. Pulling the trigger pulls the striker back further and compresses the spring. The Trigger bar hits the disconnector and lowers to release the striker as it's also compressing the striker spring. That's why you'll always have the continuous build up prior to firing and never be able to get rid of it. (Video link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2RDitgCaD0) M&P's work differently by having the striker fully cocked when in battery, and the trigger only lifts the sear to release the striker; they're usually able to be impr
  7. I've got 4k small rifle magnum primers I'm about to try with 9mm minor & major once my bullets get in. Hope they don't do anything too crazy.
  8. I guess the max load is on the other side of the slide stop hole but that sure doesn’t look good from a stress perspective. As long as your barrel is fit properly and hitting the VIS... Probably a 22 conversion as others are saying.
  9. Will they lock back with racking by hand? It could be the follower tab, tube/feed-lips, or spring tension. I’d try marking the tubes and components then try to swap good mag internals to bad mag (ignoring the Wilson) and see if it fixes it. You may try bending up the follower tab slightly afterwards if it’s the internals. I haven’t used standard 1911 mags much so maybe someone else can chime in.
  10. I bought their 80% 2011 frame, having some issues fitting it neatly to an extreme shooters STI grip but I’m not sure which is out of spec. Just ordered the plain texture one and I’ll try some grip tape or a jb weld abrasive. Hoping the two fit.
  11. Thanks for the input. I hadn’t considered the disconnector. After some tinkering, I believe it could be either the sear is rubbing on the hammer near half cock or the safety plunger is pressing on the safety to raise the safety slightly, and the hammer is rubbing on the safety. Or both. I’m not quite sure what the best method for the safety rubbing is, perhaps filing more off to make better safety clearance. I’ll try a few things and report back. Edit: I think it’s the latter. And not to mention the sear/leaf spring left leg isn’t doing a great job of sitting on the
  12. Thanks. I did have the thought of a burr in the sear/disco channel slowing down the sear reset. I may aught to clean that out more. The overtravel screw thought was that once the slide pushes the disco down, the trigger bow can push the left spring leaf off of the sear leg if it is permitted to pull too far back. I have extensive pre travel at this point, so I don’t think that is it. I didn’t think about the GS/hammer strut; I’ll take a look at that. I may buy a sear jig since I’ve two at this point.
  13. Hi all, Just did first test firing of a 9mm 2011 I’ve been building and I am having some issues; I believe they are not related to each other but I may be wrong. To note the related parts, I have a Wilson Combat square profile firing pin stop, Ed Brown perfection sear, Ed Brown Barstock Hardcore hammer, Fusion slide, 80% Black Mountain frame I machined to finish. When firing, I am often getting light strikes, despite a stock, heavy mainspring. Furthermore, the hammer often falls to half cock after firing a round, but not when cocked manually (with or without trigger pu
  14. Ya glock striker spring works fine. I’d get a few different weights for striker and recoil springs while you’re at it.
  15. I believe if you’re lightening the recoil spring, you should be lightening the striker spring as well. At least in M&P’s they work against each other and can cause the gun to not fully lock up. I think glocks & P-10’s work that way to some degree as well. I’ve lowered my striker spring to a 3lbs without light strikes.
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