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About Benevolence

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  1. Thanks. It seems like a bull barrel with extended threads for a compensator, then milling the slide and drilling/EDM'ing the barrel for poppels is the best option.
  2. Just wanted a sanity check that this is from too light of a recoil spring and the slide stop getting hit by the front of the barrel lug a bit too hard; correct? I put in a 10lb cgw recoil spring and just put in the 11lb as a result of seeing this (kept the one buffer in but may put an additional buffer???). I just got the gun and took it out Saturday and put a thousand rounds of wolf 115 WPA through it. Boy did that get filthy but I friggen love the thing!!! I have ‘dropped’ the slide on an empty chamber perhaps a dozen or two times, but I thought that would effect the other side? Either way maybe I shouldn’t do that.
  3. Hi all, I'm looking at doing a open 9mm major build and just wondering about some components and their respective fits. I'm familiar with the barrel-bushing-slide relationship for a typical 1911/2011 (I built a 40 limited gun) and I'm trying to understand which components go with what, and what the fitment process/relationship is for them. I understand that you need a tight bore fit for effective compensators, so the bushing styles simply won't work. I'm interested in slide preparation for tribrid/hybricomp barrels as well as understanding which barrel a cone compensator would go on (turns a threaded barrel into a bull barrel?). My goal is a flat shooting 9mm major gun and I think using some poppet holes with a compensator on the end would be the best way. Thanks
  4. Thanks all. I think I’ll get that for my next build when I eventually do a 9mm Major. I did some touch up with the mill and only took a few thou off at most. There is one last ‘sticking point’ that I’m trying to determine how far back the slide really needs to be able to go and where the remaining high spots are. Lesson learned; the temperatures for PVD coatings are enough to distort a tight fit frame-slide and require re-fitting
  5. If your mounting holes are tapped all fubar, I would extend the milled pocket forward or backward (depending on constraints from ejection port and rear sight) ~1/4" or so and redo the drill/tapping of holes.
  6. Having a tight fit on the compensator diameter will help redirect gasses up rather than just blasting by and out the front. And light as others have said
  7. Sure, attached. The lighting and shadows make it look a lot deeper than it is; I’d guess it’s about 0.005” deep at most, and less than that for the majority of it. Which isn’t great all though. I’ll post pictures after I touch it up with the mill
  8. I think the original galling that I caused was forcing the two together without having ground off enough material from the bottom of the slide when I was performing the lapping step. It galled at the top face of the frame (under the rails) and on the lowermost underside of the slide. I fixed it but combining the remnants of that damage and the heat distortion caused it to resurface I believe. Totally accept the s#!tty assembly, may have to spend $500 for a new frame/slide to restart but I’ll try taking just a few thousands of an inch off and see if it cleans up the damage without making it a tambourine. Thanks all for the input.
  9. Wondering what the best route I should do for this. The gun has been a project gun I’ve been building from oversized parts. I have access to mill, lathe, and welding equipment (mig, tig, laser, etc.). Long story short, I galled it a bit when lapping the frame-slide together but got it to work (some galling damage remained). I had a buddy PVD coat it with CrN but I believe the temperatures distorted it, along with the hard CrN perhaps cracking and regalling it. I’m planning on milling (with fresh 3/32” carbide endmill) in the rail to just touch it up but I’m a bit concerned of making it sloppy loose. I could also tig/mig it to build the rails up and remill them to size but I’m worried about cracking or distorting the rest of the frame. Any advice?
  10. Naval jelly (home depot) removes rust (and bluing!!!). You can do a hot bluing with the recipe below. Adjust quantities and keep ratios. I’ve done it before and it worked very well, just use a stainless bowl over an outdoor stove and keep aluminum away. Use proper personal protection equipment to stay safe (fumes, heat, eye hazard). The lye (sodium hydroxide) heats up a lot when you add it in so do it slowly. Add DI water as needed to keep boiling temperature around 290F. Have a boiling container of water nearby to rinse the part in and get ALL of the salts off the part. After use, the bluing mixture is reusable but solidified into a weird solid/goop until reheated again. You can get the lye as drain cleaner and potassium/ammonium nitrate as stump remover at a hardware store “5 pounds lye2 1/2 pounds ammonium nitrateper gallon of waterworking temperature 285-295 degrees, soak 15-40 minutes depending on the hardness of the steel.Have lots of ventilation when adding the ammonium nitrate as considerable ammonia fumes result”
  11. Alright, thanks for the input. I may try to do a playdough form on my gun then make an epoxy mold, and ‘cast’ an epoxy part in the mold.
  12. What is that grip addon for the weak-hand side of the 2011 in the picture and where can I get one?
  13. Wish there was a way to do this and be Production/SSP compliant.
  14. Wanting to use the gun for USPSA Production and IDPA SSP. I think having specific rules is fine but having "follow the spirit of the game" is not a valid answer for creating and enforcing unwritten rules.
  15. In the USPSA book 21.1 it says “Internal modifications which do not conflict with other clauses of this appendix are ALLOWED”. Can I remove some frame material, fill a channel near the guide rod with a tungsten/lead/steel weight (up to 27.9oz (M&p9 OFM) + 4oz) to get some nose weight? How about without doing internal frame removal? Is the answer any different for IDPA?
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