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Benevolence

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About Benevolence

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  1. Wanting to use the gun for USPSA Production and IDPA SSP. I think having specific rules is fine but having "follow the spirit of the game" is not a valid answer for creating and enforcing unwritten rules.
  2. In the USPSA book 21.1 it says “Internal modifications which do not conflict with other clauses of this appendix are ALLOWED”. Can I remove some frame material, fill a channel near the guide rod with a tungsten/lead/steel weight (up to 27.9oz (M&p9 OFM) + 4oz) to get some nose weight? How about without doing internal frame removal? Is the answer any different for IDPA?
  3. Thanks all, very much appreciated! I’ll keep this in mind for a future build. I’ll work on the Indian instead of the arrow for a bit in the mean time!
  4. Hi all, I built a 2011 in 40sw for limited uspsa and was wanting to make a 9mm upper I could use for major open and some cheaper plinking (with reduced recoil spring). I was looking for a 6” slide and 6”+threading barrel that I could use; can’t find the latter. Also not sure if I could do any of those funky barrels that have a rib in the front sight area. Planning to put a Cmore mounted off the frame (90 or regular?) I am looking for part suggestions for slide, barrel, compensator, and slide/barrel/comp profiles to match somewhat decently. Is a 6” slide a bad idea? Interested in porting if it would help in addition to a compensator but it may take me out of some 3 gun divisions so not sure. Thanks!
  5. Thanks, I will look into that! I think I may have worn through the top strap shield so I need to send it in but that will give me some time to noodle on it. Thanks again. Ive shot a coupe hundred rounds of hot stuff already
  6. I’m just getting into competition shooting but I have a 329PD for backpacking (my only revolver) and was thinking maybe it could be decent for competition if loaded with 240gr plated FN and trail boss to get just above major power factor (~700ft/s)? I don’t think the internals would be as nice as a 627/625 but perhaps a good into to revo?
  7. I would be surprised if they wore off after just a couple thousand rounds. Talking to a guy that does these coatings for multiple industries, often times people think the coating is wearing off but it's just metal being deposited onto them and covering them. That said, they are only ~5-10 microns thick (0.0002-0.0005").
  8. I would think you could just mill in ~0.025" deep slots in it. Just don't thin the area where the slide rail ends. No way would I weld on more material; you'd screw up the bushing hole diameter and front rails with distortion.
  9. Could you measure the width of the magazines and compare? I don't believe overtravel would be an issue as the mag release should be between the back of the trigger and front of the mag. You may try gradually forcing the magazine sides in if they are indeed rubbing (mark w/ a sharpie and insert and pull trigger some to see where it's rubbing). FWIW I'd get a second opinion as I've only built one 2011.
  10. Been using 3 of them in my 2011 I'm building. I think on the 21st round (140mm/40sw), they get 'bound up' or something where there's no spring "tension" pushing the rounds up. If I take that round out (22 or 21st?) then it seems to do pretty good. I've had a few where the round just "thumps" into the feedramp and doesn't go up unless forced but that may be more to do with the gun. Overall they seem to be working pretty good; I've got pictures of the follower sitting in the feed lips in here:
  11. As tyler2you alluded to, you typically remove material from the frame on the sides of the rails, and remove material from the bottom of the slide to get a fit. If the vertical dimension of the rails don't fit, you're going to have to find a way to remove material from your existing fit slide or create a way to take off several locations on the frame (not really feasible without a special cutter on a mill). You're also going to run into issues with the barrel lugs & link length; you don't modify the frame to fit the barrel/link, you do it the other way around.
  12. Perhaps I'm wrong and just unnecessarily worrying/complaining. I'll try it as is and see how it goes. I am quite new to this sport shooting thing.
  13. I'm concerned about the slide wearing the follower prematurely; there's moderate marks on the followers from just a handful of cycles. I'd rather not have the slide digging into the follower every time, I may put the tiniest radius on the bottom of the slide. The follower getting dragged forward after the last round may cause issues with dropping the mag as well. @itzjere, thanks for the recommendation. I'll start with small changes and work slowly.
  14. Hi all, I'm building a 2011 based on a CK frame, STI grip, Fusion firearms slide and Kart barrel. So far it's been a lot of fun and quite the learning experience; this is my first 1911 style gun. I just put in the followers and they seem to be tilting to the side, pointing upwards too much(?), and catching on the slide when in the gun and pushing forward. MBX Extreme tubes, springs, and G25 followers; all non-slide stop. I was planning to do the things mentioned in these two videos; is this an okay plan? Mostly just dremeling the follower and bending the springs (though it doesn't seem to do all that much, the little that I've tried on the 3rd mag). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1EclEpJc-g https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLC8KEqY9Nc From looking around, mag tuning seems to be something inherent with the 2011's. I'm mostly concerned with how the follower seems to be sitting pretty high up and forward in the mag; not sure how to correct for this. Thanks for any advice.
  15. Would it be unreasonable to ask the store for a configuration of the slide/frame that is oversized and not having the ten thou clearance in those areas? Perhaps I'm making a big deal out of it though. Thanks for the advice though; I hadn't heard the differences between where to remove material for caspian vs. STI frames.
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