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Showing results for tags '1911'.
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Hey guys I’m hoping for some help because I’ve never owned a 1911/2011 and I’m planning on jumping feet first and doing a build. i currently own a Glock 40 for the woods, an HK USP45 tac for home, and a 9mm target gun. I’ve been getting into 80% lowers and Cnc and I have been considering trying to replace all 3 pistols with essentially 1 2011 frame/trigger and a 9mm, 10mm, and 45 slide. Is it possible to interchange slides like this? Are the magazines all the same size? any help would be greatly appreciated, it’s hard to find info online and I really am jumping into This
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Hi everyone I just finished a 1911 build minus a front sight that is in the mail from an 80% RIA frame a colt slide that someone had mildly changed from GI and an RIA barrel with a Sarco GI parts kit. This was the education first build for me and man was it ever an education. I had been told to start with a cheap kit to learn on. Lets just say there wasn't a whole lot that was square or as flat as I would of liked to to been. The mill took care of some but others I just had to live with. I in the end is fired 65 test rounds flawlessly once I ditched the Sarco mag for a Wilson and t
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Bruce Piatt will be conducting a 1911 Pistol Build Class August 4-9 in Canton, Ohio. Please contact me for more information.
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Installed a cylinder and slide hammer and spring kit on my Colt Competition 1911. With out the recoil spring the slide moves fine. When I install the recoil spring the slide will not move. What did I do wrong when I installed the kit?
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Hi all, I just got a sweet new Safariland backpack range bag. Overall I'm happy with it. However, there is no built in storage for 1911 magazines. What do all you Stinky Stack folks on here use to store mags in your range bag? Thanks, Beaker
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I don't know why no one offers a 1911 sized polymer grip for the 2011 frames. I searched but haven't seen one. Seems like a viable product. Make a 2011 style polymer grip so it accepts single stack mags and voila! I'm thinking it would be a lower cost way to build a 1911. Thoughts?
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Hey All - new to the forum so I apologize if there is a thread on this already. I recently had a custom 2011 built for me to shoot Open in USPSA. It’s a middy (4.5” barrel), steel grip and chambered in 9mm. Beautiful gun. One thing I am trying to adjust to is having to modify my grip slightly from the plastic 9mm minor guns I have been shooting for the past few years. I always got as high up the slide with my support hand as possible with the plastic guns, but on the 2011 it seems getting high up gets you into trouble with things like extended mag release button, scope mount, thumbrest, etc. A
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I own a 9mm STI Trojan 6" pistol. Until yet i just shoot static competitions. Now i want to try dynamic competitions so i need a holster. I already tried holsters für 1911 Gov Pistols but this one are to small for my gun. Which one do you recommend me? P.S. Sorry for my bad english ;-)
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Flat-Topped w/Serrations only Flat-Topped w/Serrations and Lightening Holes
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Background: Been shooting Tupperware + CZ Shadow for a while. Finally got my act together and got an STI Edge. (I have multiple 1911s). Went to the range to put it through its paces. Now I have been working on my grip especially rotating my Left Hand 'forward'/thumb away from body. I have seemed to eliminate trigger jerk, despite still anticipating recoil--thats not the point of this post. Something was slapping my RIGHT thumb as it rode the safety. I suspect it is my gripping the gun tightly and feeling the slide moving. This was something new as I do not have this is
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Is there a formula or system to use with a specific weight recoil spring and the firing pin spring. Should I use the firing pin spring that comes with a recoil spring or is there a better system. Trying out different recoil spring weights should I swap the firing pin spring at the same time? Does the main spring come into play with this as well? Still very new to 1911/2011 firearms.
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I bought myself a new sig 1911 tacops 9mm. Gun is pretty nice out of the box however I would like to change the front sight. Does anyone have any idea what the height of the sight is without removing it? I would like to try the ameriglo square tritium sight. https://www.opticsplanet.com/ameriglo-front-tritium-night-sight-for-sig-springfield-xd-8-green-with-orange-sq.html
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I am a huge fan of the Dan Wesson PM9. But I went looking for a Major PF single stack and found that the PM7 in .45 lacked a lot of the cool stuff found on the PM9. So last year I had Keith at Dan Wesson build me a PM-45 with all of the goodies. I was excited to see that they recently added the PM-45 to their line up for 2018. Check it out here: http://danwessonfirearms.com/product/pointman-45-pm-45/ Also, Keith noted that the SSC is back in stock at CZ Custom for a limited run. Those who want a quality Single Stack in .40 can get it here: https://czcustom.com/new-firearms/cz-pisto
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I need to replace the ambi thumb safety on Boopsie, a USPSA Single Stack 1911. The old Muschke (spelling?) is wearing loose at the connection. Recommendations? It gets heavy use as I actually am left handed. Needs to remain USPSA SS legal. Thanks!
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New to the forum, not new to shooting. Always looking for more places to shoot. That is when I make the time to hit a match. I've been mostly shooting USPSA, but have on the occasion shot some IDPA, and 3-Gun, and zombie shoots down in KY. For USPSA I typically run a Metro Arms MAC1911 classic .45 in L10, and a CZ scorpion in PCC. Any other shooting its mostly been a CZ P09, Bushmaster ACR, and a KSG.
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So those of you that know, I've been having issue after issue with my STI DVC Classic in 40. Most recently had another out of battery detonation, sent the gun to STI and then it came back, but now I'm having light strikes. Same ammo, same primer, same batch even that worked perfectly before. I have a 19lbs mainspring in the gun now. Using Winchester primers. Wondering if somehow the out of battery det jacked up the mainspring? Thoughts or recommendations? replace the spring and keep going after it until it starts acting a fool again? Single stack isn't the division where you ha
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Is it a common thing for slide stops to wear to the point that they will begin to back out during operation? I am shooting a SA Loaded 45 (1999 vintage) with quite a few rounds down the pipe. Recently, I have had issues where the slide stop will creep out enough to impede slide motion during a shooting session. Also, it doesn't have that nice sharp "snap" when I reassemble the gun anymore. installing a new part seems to be simple enough so am planning to do that. Interest if anyone has seen this before. Thanks.
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looking to get started with USPSA using a 1911 full size. i don't yet understand how the divisions work with this sport yet. anything I should be aware of while competing with this gun, and would you say it puts me at a disadvantage compared to other higher capacity doublestack 9mm pistols? just working with what i've got to start out before I rush out and buy a dedicated race gun
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Hi I recently bought a lightly used STI Trojan in 9mm. The pistol looks fine in every way but when I looked down the barrel I was kind of surprised. The throat of the bore looks very long. Does someone know if the barrels has an extra-long throat? Or are free-bored to accept longer than standard cartridges? Usually you are able to see where the lances are ‘cut’ to make the throat, but not on this barrel. The barrel is highly polished inside witch make this harder to see.
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So, I've been in a bit of a quandary since I found out that I cannot shoot my S&W Performance Center 1911 in Single Stack due to the cuts in the slide. My other 1911 is a Kimber Stainless Target II in 10 mm which I hardly shoot. I've been toying with shooting that in SS, down-loading to a PF of 170 to eliminate the excessive recoil of a typical factory 10 mm round. What gives me pause are the numerous comments I see the forums about how no one shoots 10 mm in competition because the brass is not only more expensive but is hard to retrieve on the range because so few peopl
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I'm seeking recommendations for 10-round 45 ACP mags for a S&W PC1911, and in 10 mm for a Kimber Stainless Target II. Thanks.
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Overhauling my 1911 last night, discovered the rear ejector post sheared off in the frame. I tried the simple fixes (heat, gently tapping, etc) no luck. It wont even rotate in place when torqued with a dental pick. I'm going to need a competent guy to drill it out, and fast. Any suggestions?
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Howdy gents, Been shooting single stack with a Loaner Kimber for a few months now and am very interested in purchasing my own 1911. I recently went in to a local gun store and got my hands on a Sig STX and was instantly in love with it. How would this model fair for single stack? Is this a model that could impede me in the future. Min my research I stumbled upon an article by Robby Letham saying the Springfield RO Operator is a fantastic option and also little less expensive. (Yes, I know, Robby is paid to say that) Looking for opinions or other recommendations preferably
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I am shopping for another single stack gun so that I can have a practice gun and match gun. I currently have a Trojan, but it is blued and that finish is no good for a lot of handling and holstering. I am looking at making it a practice gun, and would like a match gun with a nicer finish. I was just planning on buying a hard-chromed Trojan, but am interested in the Sig Max. What say you? Only considering .40S&W, no other caliber will be considered under any circumstances.
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Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I've loaded Xtreme 200gr SWC over 4.9gr of TiteGroup @ 1.230" with great accuracy at 167 PF. I decided to try some Xtreme 200gr Plated RN @ 1.240" but have seen HUGE swings in velocity (+/-40 FPS), and random tumbling. I've tried 4.9gr (154.2 PF) of Titegroup up to 5.4gr to finally achieve an avg 827 FPS (165.4 PF), but the velocity swings are terrible and 5.4gr of TG is WAY too hot. I'm getting lead spirals on close targets, so I know the heat is vaporizing the lead. Any recommendations or suggestions for other powders and/or
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