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Showing results for tags '1911'.
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Hey All - new to the forum so I apologize if there is a thread on this already. I recently had a custom 2011 built for me to shoot Open in USPSA. It’s a middy (4.5” barrel), steel grip and chambered in 9mm. Beautiful gun. One thing I am trying to adjust to is having to modify my grip slightly from the plastic 9mm minor guns I have been shooting for the past few years. I always got as high up the slide with my support hand as possible with the plastic guns, but on the 2011 it seems getting high up gets you into trouble with things like extended mag release button, scope mount, thumbrest, etc. Any tips to more easily transition to an open gun friendly grip. Thanks in advance!
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I own a 9mm STI Trojan 6" pistol. Until yet i just shoot static competitions. Now i want to try dynamic competitions so i need a holster. I already tried holsters für 1911 Gov Pistols but this one are to small for my gun. Which one do you recommend me? P.S. Sorry for my bad english ;-)
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Flat-Topped w/Serrations only Flat-Topped w/Serrations and Lightening Holes
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Background: Been shooting Tupperware + CZ Shadow for a while. Finally got my act together and got an STI Edge. (I have multiple 1911s). Went to the range to put it through its paces. Now I have been working on my grip especially rotating my Left Hand 'forward'/thumb away from body. I have seemed to eliminate trigger jerk, despite still anticipating recoil--thats not the point of this post. Something was slapping my RIGHT thumb as it rode the safety. I suspect it is my gripping the gun tightly and feeling the slide moving. This was something new as I do not have this issue on my normal 1911s. Anu suggestions on what might be causing this? Am I gripping to tight? DO I just let my thumb sit on the safety and not squeeze? When I first started my thumbs would go any which way into space on not even touch the gun--perhaps I have over corrected? Also it seemed that .40 was a lot more snappy that I remembered--especially for a big pistol like the edge. Not sure if this is my new grip, new round, etc. Before I could have sworn there is no difference between 9,40 and 45. Am I just becoming more aware? Or do I need to tweak the gun. I've shot a 45 1911 a lot over the years--never had any 'comfort' issues, but I did really notice the 40 was recoiling--we're not talking .357 mag or anything but it was a noticable step up over 9mm. (Full disclosure--I have a beretta 96 and have shot it tons, just not lately) Also someone call the STI haters. My gun is broken. Feeds Hollowpoints (had some junky 135 HP that were discounted years back. Yes 135 gr hollowpoints), Flat nose, etc without issue. Trigger is meh out of the box, but thats compared to 'My' 1911 which I have tweaked to perfection over the years. Best shooting I've done at 15 yards in a while though. Biggest issue was LOADING the mag as those 40 rounds don't like to slide all the way back.
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Is there a formula or system to use with a specific weight recoil spring and the firing pin spring. Should I use the firing pin spring that comes with a recoil spring or is there a better system. Trying out different recoil spring weights should I swap the firing pin spring at the same time? Does the main spring come into play with this as well? Still very new to 1911/2011 firearms.
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I bought myself a new sig 1911 tacops 9mm. Gun is pretty nice out of the box however I would like to change the front sight. Does anyone have any idea what the height of the sight is without removing it? I would like to try the ameriglo square tritium sight. https://www.opticsplanet.com/ameriglo-front-tritium-night-sight-for-sig-springfield-xd-8-green-with-orange-sq.html
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I am a huge fan of the Dan Wesson PM9. But I went looking for a Major PF single stack and found that the PM7 in .45 lacked a lot of the cool stuff found on the PM9. So last year I had Keith at Dan Wesson build me a PM-45 with all of the goodies. I was excited to see that they recently added the PM-45 to their line up for 2018. Check it out here: http://danwessonfirearms.com/product/pointman-45-pm-45/ Also, Keith noted that the SSC is back in stock at CZ Custom for a limited run. Those who want a quality Single Stack in .40 can get it here: https://czcustom.com/new-firearms/cz-pistols-custom/dw-ss-custom-cal-40-s-w.html
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I need to replace the ambi thumb safety on Boopsie, a USPSA Single Stack 1911. The old Muschke (spelling?) is wearing loose at the connection. Recommendations? It gets heavy use as I actually am left handed. Needs to remain USPSA SS legal. Thanks!
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New to the forum, not new to shooting. Always looking for more places to shoot. That is when I make the time to hit a match. I've been mostly shooting USPSA, but have on the occasion shot some IDPA, and 3-Gun, and zombie shoots down in KY. For USPSA I typically run a Metro Arms MAC1911 classic .45 in L10, and a CZ scorpion in PCC. Any other shooting its mostly been a CZ P09, Bushmaster ACR, and a KSG.
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So those of you that know, I've been having issue after issue with my STI DVC Classic in 40. Most recently had another out of battery detonation, sent the gun to STI and then it came back, but now I'm having light strikes. Same ammo, same primer, same batch even that worked perfectly before. I have a 19lbs mainspring in the gun now. Using Winchester primers. Wondering if somehow the out of battery det jacked up the mainspring? Thoughts or recommendations? replace the spring and keep going after it until it starts acting a fool again? Single stack isn't the division where you have a whole lot of extra rounds to eject when you are racking the slide.
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Is it a common thing for slide stops to wear to the point that they will begin to back out during operation? I am shooting a SA Loaded 45 (1999 vintage) with quite a few rounds down the pipe. Recently, I have had issues where the slide stop will creep out enough to impede slide motion during a shooting session. Also, it doesn't have that nice sharp "snap" when I reassemble the gun anymore. installing a new part seems to be simple enough so am planning to do that. Interest if anyone has seen this before. Thanks.
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looking to get started with USPSA using a 1911 full size. i don't yet understand how the divisions work with this sport yet. anything I should be aware of while competing with this gun, and would you say it puts me at a disadvantage compared to other higher capacity doublestack 9mm pistols? just working with what i've got to start out before I rush out and buy a dedicated race gun
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Hi I recently bought a lightly used STI Trojan in 9mm. The pistol looks fine in every way but when I looked down the barrel I was kind of surprised. The throat of the bore looks very long. Does someone know if the barrels has an extra-long throat? Or are free-bored to accept longer than standard cartridges? Usually you are able to see where the lances are ‘cut’ to make the throat, but not on this barrel. The barrel is highly polished inside witch make this harder to see.
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So, I've been in a bit of a quandary since I found out that I cannot shoot my S&W Performance Center 1911 in Single Stack due to the cuts in the slide. My other 1911 is a Kimber Stainless Target II in 10 mm which I hardly shoot. I've been toying with shooting that in SS, down-loading to a PF of 170 to eliminate the excessive recoil of a typical factory 10 mm round. What gives me pause are the numerous comments I see the forums about how no one shoots 10 mm in competition because the brass is not only more expensive but is hard to retrieve on the range because so few people shoot it. So my question is: does anyone actually shoot a 10 mm in competition and enjoy it? I have this fear of becoming obsessive about collecting my own brass, which isn't always practical between stages. I've also thought about rechambering in 40 S&W to alleviate this problem, but it sure would be nice to shoot the gun I already have. I appreciate any thoughts on the matter!
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I'm seeking recommendations for 10-round 45 ACP mags for a S&W PC1911, and in 10 mm for a Kimber Stainless Target II. Thanks.
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Overhauling my 1911 last night, discovered the rear ejector post sheared off in the frame. I tried the simple fixes (heat, gently tapping, etc) no luck. It wont even rotate in place when torqued with a dental pick. I'm going to need a competent guy to drill it out, and fast. Any suggestions?
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Howdy gents, Been shooting single stack with a Loaner Kimber for a few months now and am very interested in purchasing my own 1911. I recently went in to a local gun store and got my hands on a Sig STX and was instantly in love with it. How would this model fair for single stack? Is this a model that could impede me in the future. Min my research I stumbled upon an article by Robby Letham saying the Springfield RO Operator is a fantastic option and also little less expensive. (Yes, I know, Robby is paid to say that) Looking for opinions or other recommendations preferably around the 1k mark. As much as I'd love a Sig Max it's out of the question currently.
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I am shopping for another single stack gun so that I can have a practice gun and match gun. I currently have a Trojan, but it is blued and that finish is no good for a lot of handling and holstering. I am looking at making it a practice gun, and would like a match gun with a nicer finish. I was just planning on buying a hard-chromed Trojan, but am interested in the Sig Max. What say you? Only considering .40S&W, no other caliber will be considered under any circumstances.
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Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I've loaded Xtreme 200gr SWC over 4.9gr of TiteGroup @ 1.230" with great accuracy at 167 PF. I decided to try some Xtreme 200gr Plated RN @ 1.240" but have seen HUGE swings in velocity (+/-40 FPS), and random tumbling. I've tried 4.9gr (154.2 PF) of Titegroup up to 5.4gr to finally achieve an avg 827 FPS (165.4 PF), but the velocity swings are terrible and 5.4gr of TG is WAY too hot. I'm getting lead spirals on close targets, so I know the heat is vaporizing the lead. Any recommendations or suggestions for other powders and/or load data would be much appreciated. Notes: Large CCI pistol primers, I've tried crimping less/more. Firearm is a Springfield Loaded Target .45 government 1911. I shoot 180gr Plated RN .40 over 4.7gr of Titegroup @ 1.180" with +/- 15 FPS velocities. Thanks in advance.
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Not sure where this gun fits into competitions other than Steel Challenge...but it is a fine choice for that!!!
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I recently purchased a STI Eagle 2011. The gun came with a significant amount of holster wear on the bluing. What are your thoughts on the different hard metallic and PVD coating? I am not a fan of Cerakote, especially on 1911 or 2011's. I have been in contact with Calico Coating out of Denver, NC. The have numerous tempting options but I have found special interest in the Titanium Carbo-Nitride (TiCN). It is described as the following: "Calico Titanium Carbo-Nitride (TiCN) has the highest lubricitiy of all the TiN coatings - making it an excellent choice as a dry film lubricate where improved hardness and wear resistance beyond standard Calico TiN is needed. TiCN is normally applied to steels, hardened steel and aluminum materials. TiCN is an excellent coating when working against bronze, brass and plastic, therefore, it a good choice for stamping, punching, and forming." The color is described as bronze. I requested pictures of this coating and will post them. The price on this coating would be $200 for the slide and barrel (as long as we have four getting coated). They offer other coatings such as the popular DLC. I believe I am going to do the small controls in DLC. Do you have any other recommendation for companies? What other coating do you know that will make my gun look like a "shiny penny"?
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I have a Rock Island double stack .40 1911. The pistol seems based on the Para design. Issue. I am left handed. The ambidextrous safety (right side) digs in to the base of my thumb in a horribly painful way when fired. I rest my thumb on the safety and that is not going to change. Question. I tried rounding the edges of the safety to no avail. Have there been others with a similar complaint and how was it remedied? what is the least costly method to safety selection? There are so many ambi safeties in the market and I would like something aling the lines of the extended thumb safety I purchased for my CZ TS .40. it was wide and arched making it both a safety and thumb rest. Can someone recommend a large 1911 ambi thumb safety. I believe the Para frame design fits a generic 1911 safety. Thoughts? Ideas?
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Hey guys. Hoping for a quick response. I am having trouble finding a lot of info on the sti tactical 5.0 ss tr I have an opportunity to pick one up local for 1300. Comes with 5 mags a leather holster and following work done to it dehorned frame.. match competition sti trigger polish feed ramp. polish internal slide. competition guide rod competition internals.. trijicon heine night sights. level one reverse crown .. What u guys think? Should I ask anything specific to the build? I may shoot it in ss a lil but kind of want a full length dust cover 1911. Thanks again. If I dont reply it's because I am horrible at forums. But I read and appreciate the input
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between these 1911's what would you choose (pro & con details welcome) -
I have a GI 1911. After installing an Ambi Safety, I see that the (1) Grip Safety need to be replaced. Why? Because by resting my left hand thumb on the safety does not pressure the grip safety enough to release the trigger. (2) So, I picked up a Grip Safety with a rise on the end hoping it will be enough to force engagement. This is a fitting job so I was considering sending it out to have done. (3) But, Fitting the Grip Safety impacts the GI style hammer as the hammer spur no longer fits. (4) So I might as well take a look at competition hammers which is an entire process in itself. (5) If a new hammer is to had than the sear engagement will have to be fitted and possibly replaced. My question is that this seem like a lot of changes to get the safety grip to work. While I may want to learn to fit this stuff later, It seems a lot to do first time out the gate. I simply want to use the gun. Is there a definitive NO to disabling the grip Safety by taken metal off the engagement tip of the safety? Or, is pining the best solution and can it be done simply on a drill press? What are your thoughts on this never ending change chain?
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