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About EngineerEli

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    Beyond it All
  • Birthday 10/22/1986

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    Lake Zurich, IL.
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    Eli Jacobson

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  1. Yes I have, and it shoots really soft! I'm impressed! This is coming from a Tanfo Stock II shooter. Not sure if I need more grip or not at this point... So I tried this spring/sleeve trigger over travel reduction mod last night and came to two conclusions: First, the spring MUST BE CUT TO LENGTH SO THERE IS STILL CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE FRAME AND TAKEDOWN DISCONNECT ARM. I had it a little longer the first time arround so there was still some tension, and I nearly "bricked" the gun. I didn't realize that was even possible! The spring snapped into a position where it would not allow the takedown arm to move back and allow the takedown lever to be rotated. But it took me at least a nerve racking half hour to get the spring compressed with the gun assembled to get the take down lever rotated down to get the slide back off. Make sure there is still a little clearance between the takedown arm and the end of the spring. Second, after correcting the above potential disaster, the spring absolutely and considerably reduced over travel and trigger reset. While I was in there I polished all the parts, surfaces, and bores that people suggest, and that make contact. This made for a greatly improved trigger. All be it, still about 4 lb 4 oz from the middle of the trigger. Tonight, as an experiment, I took out one of the two sear springs. (Ejector port side) Not only did this decrease the trigger pull to about 3 lb 15 oz, it completely transformed that sliding break feel, that I hated, into a crisp break, that I love! The trigger honestly feels pretty darn good now, all with just some polishing and a spring I had sitting around!
  2. That makes sense, thank you both for explaining. I just spent the money for an x5 legion, and do actually plan to get the GGI comp trigger at some point, but I'm saving up for a DPP first, so I may mess with cheap DIY trigger upgrades for the time being.
  3. Sorry to dig up an old topic, but I'm not understanding why this is a problem. Is this not basically the same thing the little tube/collar does in the GGI competition trigger kits???
  4. I found some time and went back and re-faced the primary sear edge with the screw in an 1/8th turn. Re polished everything and broke the edge between the two sear surfaces with the white stone. Trigger pull dropped to 2 lb 10 oz, and this is with the first stage increased to about 9 oz, which feels much better. I think I'll leave it here for a little while, haven't had the chance to go test it out at the range yet, but I have not been able to educe any malfunctions manually. I'm wondering if as the trigger job sets in a little more if the pull will drop slightly more... Is that common? Thanks for the help everyone!
  5. Well, I went back and adjusted the center and left legs of the spring to mirror my SV, which helped a bit. I checked pull required to make the trigger start moving in the first stage ~6 oz , then I held the hammer to the rear and checked the pull required to make the trigger start moving into the second stage ~14-15 oz (move the sear) I then went back and rounded the edge between the primary and secondary angles of my sear with my white extra fine stone. and polished with mothers and a q tip stick. Result is 2 lb 15 oz. Its an improvement, but I think when time permits, I need to go back and turn the screw in 1-8th turn and re-set my primary sear angle a tiny bit. Its still exceptionally crisp. (too crisp?) Difference between first stage and second stage (break) is too great.
  6. So I finished my first attempt with the sear last night, and I'm less than thrilled... It is perfectly crisp, and no creep, but the trigger went up from 2# 9oz to 3# 12oz... I made no other adjustments, does this mean I need to go back and turn the screw in an eighth, or a quarter and put a new primary edge on the sear? Seems like maybe my current sear surface is too positive? I did also take my fine white ceramic stone and just shined up (and squared up)the hammer hooks. I stoned the sear first with a medium fine India stone, then with the white extra fine ceramic stone. Lastly I polished all the contact surfaces with mothers polish on the end of a cut in half q-tip. (hard cardboard stick, not the cotton end) What should I try next? This gun is for competition / range use only, never self defense. It is the back up for my Infinity limited gun that has an incredible 1# 13oz trigger. So I would like it as close to that as reasonably possible. Honestly the 2.5 lbs it was before was acceptable, just need it to stop doubling, and I did want it a little more crisp. In retrospect, the doubling could have been from sear spring adjustment, which has since been corrected...
  7. OK, now that I'm thinking about, wouldn't turning the screw out the last 1/8th turn cause the engagement to go further negative? (first image below) Is this what you meant? If I'm understanding correctly, going perpendicular to the line straight up from the pin axis would already result in a somewhat negative engagement, (second image below) is it desirable for competitive shooting to go even a little further, or is that getting risky? I want a crisp light trigger, but I want the trigger job to last and be relatively safe.
  8. Perfect, sounds pretty straight forward. Just to make sure I'm thinking about it right, you say perpendicular to the line drawn straight up from the center of the pin, would that not be the same as having the sear face parallel to the top of the tool? Just seems like an easier way to think about it. Then yea, just gently touch it with a stone to figure out where I need to be. Given the sear face is a little rounded at the moment, I guess I just need to find the position where I am only removing material from the center of whats left of the primary sear surface, right?
  9. Interesting... So is there a method I could use to establish proper sear angel and set screw length for my given sear to use it on this jig. Thanks!
  10. Hey All, First post in like a year, glad to be back! So I was shooting my backup limited gun, an STI Apiro, at the range the other day and it started doubling on me, looking at the sear it look somewhat rounded, the sear leaf of the spring was a little loose too so I tightened that. I wanted to put a fresh primary and secondary cut on the sear face so I bought the Brownells 1911 sear stoning fixture. (linked below) The gun still has the original STI sear and hammer in it, to the best of my knowledge, though it was purchased used. Problem is after adding loctite and setting the set screw as they instruct in the directions, the tip of the sear does not appear to be ending up in the correct position, this is making me think the dimensions on my particular fixture are out of whack.... Can anyone see something I am doing wrong, or does it look like I need Brownells to send me out a replacement stoning fixture? Would someone be willing to measure theirs, and post the correct dimensions I could check against mine? I believe this one and the Ed Brown one should be dimensionally similar. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/trigger-tools/1911-sear-stoning-fixture-prod27288.aspx Thanks, Eli
  11. Interesting... I found it to make a BIG difference to weight and pull of the trigger, especially in DA. It's also not that big of a deal, for me at least, to swap out.
  12. Going to bring this one back from the dead. I recently got a Limited Pro as a back up gun and just to play around with. While doing the trigger job I got the same parts as last time but this time, ordering the same part as before from CGW the reduced power firing pin spring for cz, the OD is larger and no longer fits in the bore in the frame of my limited pro for the plunger!!! I'm pretty annoyed, I sent them an email asking if something had changed or if I just got a bad spring, but never got any reply. Anyone tried using one of these springs in their Tanfo recently? Success or failure? Anyone have any spares of the old ones? I can take a measurement of the dimensions of the spring I received and post them, just to make sure my Lim Pro frame isn't the problem...
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