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About EngineerEli

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    Beyond it All
  • Birthday 10/22/1986

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    Lake Zurich, IL.
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    Eli Jacobson

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  1. I was talking about the polymer mag well in the grip not the detachable one. Notice the different curvature of the rear of the grip near the bottom too.
  2. Looks like I kind of reinvented the wheel a little bit, but I did execute the modification a little different that the others on your topic. Also, it has been verified it is acceptable for carry optics, but if I took the optic off and wanted to go back to production, would it still be allowed? Side note, does anyone know the optimal FPS / IPS cutting speed for polymer, or the tungsten polymer? I am actually using an end mill on my drill press with an X Y vise, not sure if I was cutting at the right speed...
  3. Hey All, So I picked up an X5 Legion to give carry optics. So far I have been pretty happy with it, and I love the weight of it, but I found the grip dug into the the base of my thumb, which drove me nuts. I realized that all of my favorite guns have wide grips with narrow beaver tails, Tanfo, CZ, 2011. I was afraid to start cutting on the fancy legion grip, so I used part of my $200 rebate to get a standard polymer X5 grip, to modify. The modification was a little rough, because I rushed a bit, but I think it feels 100 times better now. I also realized that Sig does offer a similar narrow beavertail grip the for the XCompact, but its grip diameter is smaller and it doesn't have the same magwell, which we need for competition. Don't even think it would work with the 5" barrel anyway, but I handled one at a local gun shop, and it similarly feels way better than the standard X grips. Question is, would this grip modification be legal for Carry Optics (or Production)? I want to be sure before modifying my actual X5 Legion grip in the same way. XCompact Grip:
  4. I was able to get one of the gray guns trigger return springs by itself from Shooters Connection. Put it in and it reduced the trigger pull another 4 oz. Not bad for $6 plus shipping! Over all trigger is now measuring 2 lb 11.3 oz from the end of the trigger. This reduces the first stage tension on the trigger to very little. I think its enough, but live fire will have to prove this. I gave up on trying to measure the trigger pull from the middle of the flat trigger, like I was doing previously... it was just too hard to get a consistent measurement. Using the end of the trigger method, I had a 2 lb 15.3 oz trigger pull before swapping the spring out. For reference, the same configuration, while trying to get a measurement from the middle of the trigger as I did above, resulted in about a 3 lb 15 oz pull.
  5. I literally just mounted my optic a few weeks ago on my Legion, and haven't even had the chance to shoot it with the optic yet. I would like to get the barrel replaced though, since I know its going to be an issue like it is for everyone else... Should I wait to shoot it to have proof, or do people think I can just convince them to do it based on the experiences of everyone else? Also, what if a few little things had been changed out in the trigger? Do you guys think it is critical to change everything back to stock, or they may void warranty and not exchange the barrel?
  6. Yes I have, and it shoots really soft! I'm impressed! This is coming from a Tanfo Stock II shooter. Not sure if I need more grip or not at this point... So I tried this spring/sleeve trigger over travel reduction mod last night and came to two conclusions: First, the spring MUST BE CUT TO LENGTH SO THERE IS STILL CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE FRAME AND TAKEDOWN DISCONNECT ARM. I had it a little longer the first time arround so there was still some tension, and I nearly "bricked" the gun. I didn't realize that was even possible! The spring snapped into a position where it would not allow the takedown arm to move back and allow the takedown lever to be rotated. But it took me at least a nerve racking half hour to get the spring compressed with the gun assembled to get the take down lever rotated down to get the slide back off. Make sure there is still a little clearance between the takedown arm and the end of the spring. Second, after correcting the above potential disaster, the spring absolutely and considerably reduced over travel and trigger reset. While I was in there I polished all the parts, surfaces, and bores that people suggest, and that make contact. This made for a greatly improved trigger. All be it, still about 4 lb 4 oz from the middle of the trigger. Tonight, as an experiment, I took out one of the two sear springs. (Ejector port side) Not only did this decrease the trigger pull to about 3 lb 15 oz, it completely transformed that sliding break feel, that I hated, into a crisp break, that I love! The trigger honestly feels pretty darn good now, all with just some polishing and a spring I had sitting around!
  7. That makes sense, thank you both for explaining. I just spent the money for an x5 legion, and do actually plan to get the GGI comp trigger at some point, but I'm saving up for a DPP first, so I may mess with cheap DIY trigger upgrades for the time being.
  8. Sorry to dig up an old topic, but I'm not understanding why this is a problem. Is this not basically the same thing the little tube/collar does in the GGI competition trigger kits???
  9. I found some time and went back and re-faced the primary sear edge with the screw in an 1/8th turn. Re polished everything and broke the edge between the two sear surfaces with the white stone. Trigger pull dropped to 2 lb 10 oz, and this is with the first stage increased to about 9 oz, which feels much better. I think I'll leave it here for a little while, haven't had the chance to go test it out at the range yet, but I have not been able to educe any malfunctions manually. I'm wondering if as the trigger job sets in a little more if the pull will drop slightly more... Is that common? Thanks for the help everyone!
  10. Well, I went back and adjusted the center and left legs of the spring to mirror my SV, which helped a bit. I checked pull required to make the trigger start moving in the first stage ~6 oz , then I held the hammer to the rear and checked the pull required to make the trigger start moving into the second stage ~14-15 oz (move the sear) I then went back and rounded the edge between the primary and secondary angles of my sear with my white extra fine stone. and polished with mothers and a q tip stick. Result is 2 lb 15 oz. Its an improvement, but I think when time permits, I need to go back and turn the screw in 1-8th turn and re-set my primary sear angle a tiny bit. Its still exceptionally crisp. (too crisp?) Difference between first stage and second stage (break) is too great.
  11. So I finished my first attempt with the sear last night, and I'm less than thrilled... It is perfectly crisp, and no creep, but the trigger went up from 2# 9oz to 3# 12oz... I made no other adjustments, does this mean I need to go back and turn the screw in an eighth, or a quarter and put a new primary edge on the sear? Seems like maybe my current sear surface is too positive? I did also take my fine white ceramic stone and just shined up (and squared up)the hammer hooks. I stoned the sear first with a medium fine India stone, then with the white extra fine ceramic stone. Lastly I polished all the contact surfaces with mothers polish on the end of a cut in half q-tip. (hard cardboard stick, not the cotton end) What should I try next? This gun is for competition / range use only, never self defense. It is the back up for my Infinity limited gun that has an incredible 1# 13oz trigger. So I would like it as close to that as reasonably possible. Honestly the 2.5 lbs it was before was acceptable, just need it to stop doubling, and I did want it a little more crisp. In retrospect, the doubling could have been from sear spring adjustment, which has since been corrected...
  12. OK, now that I'm thinking about, wouldn't turning the screw out the last 1/8th turn cause the engagement to go further negative? (first image below) Is this what you meant? If I'm understanding correctly, going perpendicular to the line straight up from the pin axis would already result in a somewhat negative engagement, (second image below) is it desirable for competitive shooting to go even a little further, or is that getting risky? I want a crisp light trigger, but I want the trigger job to last and be relatively safe.
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