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EngineerEli

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About EngineerEli

  • Rank
    Beyond it All
  • Birthday 10/22/1986

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Zurich, IL.
  • Interests
    SHOOTING, ESPRESSO, RACING, AND ENGINEERING!
  • Real Name
    Eli Jacobson

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  1. Its becoming apparent that no one really cares about this, but I don't care, LOL. I realized that once changing over to the larger spring either actual Beretta or in my case Tanfoglio (EAA) there is no reason not to just use the plain old steel option guide rod for the 92. I picked up a cheap one for $10 off eBay, and reduced the head diameter so it would fit into the 92FSR frame. I found that the end still stuck out the end of the slide a little more than I liked so I shortened it from the head end to maintain the black finish on the end and to increase the the effective locked breech spring length, it took the removal of about 1mm of thickness. I also ended up trimming off 1.5 coils from the Tanfoglio (EAA) spring I mentioned above and the gun seems to lock back on empty reliably with the CCI Quiet-22 Semi-Auto ammo I've been using, its pretty weak stuff. It fits perfect, cycles great, adds a little weight, and I'm happy. I'll probably keep it like this going foreword.
  2. Another interesting development, I've found that an Wolf 8 lb recoil spring from a Tanfoglio / EAA Stock II (Full Size, not long slide) fits and cycles very similarly to the original one. It gives the same occasional failure to lock back but never has FTE's with the relatively weak CCI Quiet SA ammo I'm using, it may also break in... The cut down because of the thick wire, and reduced number of coils had a very steep tension curve, but this new 8 lb one, is much more linear. I do disclose that other recoil springs from the same gun, with higher weight ratings, fit too tightly on the guide rod, so I can't make any guarantees...
  3. Well it can be made to fit... Turns out the guide rod is aluminum. They do advertise it as 'metal'. The cup at the end that captures the spring is just retained with a little c shaped clip that goes in a groove on the guide rod, but with the clip in place it would not fit through the hole on my .22 slide, so I'm not using it captured. The dia of the head was too big, so I reduced it a bit so it would fit. The shaft dia is too big for the .22 spring, so I started cutting coils off the one that came with the captured guide rod and was actually able to get it to cycle pretty well! Pics to come...
  4. As I should have known, I got impatient and ordered the Steel captured guide rod from Beretta, it was only $18 shipped so it will be fun to mess with while I'm stuck at home, but I just got a response from Brownells today saying the dimensions of the part are: OD Major: 0.410” OD Minor: 0.292” The 92-22 dimensions I measured are: OD Major (Head that sits against take down leaver): 0.372" OD Minor (Shaft Diameter): 0.236" (ID of recoil spring): 0.290" I can potentially reduce the head diameter. But I doubt I'm going to be able to reduce the minor OD without a lathe... I wonder if I could get a low weight 9mm recoil spring, like a 9lb, and clip a few coils to get the .22 to cycle with it?
  5. Just for fun, this is what I'm talking about
  6. I just got a rimfire Beretta, 92FSR, and for fun, I'm seeing what other real steel Beretta parts will fit on it to improve it. It is said to be a full size replica of the 92, and I've already put a "D" main spring in it, and put some aftermarket G10 grips on it. My rimfire one has a captured guide rod/recoil spring, and the 92A1 and m9A1 have one that looks very similar, before I spend the money on one, I was hoping someone out there with either of these guns could go and measure the diameter where the spring rides and the head diameter that seats in the frame against the take down lever. Aftermarket steel captured guide rod for the 92A1 I'm hoping to try out in my rimfire gun: Thanks, -Eli
  7. Unfortunately I didn't make any notes and I don't remember exactly. To the best of my recollection, it was something like a 3/8 end mill at 1180 rpm. After my "machining" I did go back through with 220 sandpaper to get the remaining shape how I wanted it, then worked up to 320 then 600. (maybe 1500 don't remember) then I did actually use some mothers mag and aluminum polish on it, just by hand with a paper towel after. That helped to get it to the final finish. One note I would advise people though, is to not remove too much material from the back underside of the beaver tail. I did thinking I wanted to make it look more like a 1911 style one, but now the back quarter or so if it doesn't even make contact with my hand, so I wish I would have left a little more meat there...
  8. I ended up reaching out to Springer Precision, they were prompt to respond, and sent me out a replacement no questions asked. The new one seems good to go for now, I have a match Wednesday to put it to the test. The one I took off, that came loose, looked like there was no thread locker on the threads, so maybe they just missed it on one piece or something...
  9. So I went with the extended paddle release for my Legion, and found out a few things. First, when swapping releases, the key to removal I found is not to use too large of a tool, it must be considerably smaller than the size of the hole, so that you can depress the detent, then pivot your tool slightly to make the detent start coming out of the release. At my first match with the gun and the new release, I found it made weak hand only shooting kind of strange, the paddle was right against the webbing of my weak hand , it didn't release unwantedly, but it made it very challenging to get a good high grip for weak hand only. Lastly, by the end of the match, (4 stages) I noticed the paddle had become loose from the release button itself! The paddle is advertised as being permanently attached, so I will have to contact Springer Precision and see what they want me to do. I'm wondering if given the chance, if I should just switch back over to the standard extended version in place of the one with the paddle...
  10. I have pretty medium size hands. I checked all of my other competition guns and I have to do the little flip to rotate the gun a bit to reach the release, and it hasn't held me back much. I would still think having a little less of a reach wouldn't hurt, so I may give the one with the paddle a try if it really is production / carry optics legal. Can someone point me to documented proof of this in case I am challenged at a match, I didn't see it in the production annex section. As for table starts I was trained years ago, to first get your weak hand finger tips under the rear of the slide to start lifting it up, so you can get a good grip on the gun with your strong hand. This should logically eliminate the problem of the magazine being released at the same time...
  11. What should I consider when deciding weather to get the regular extended mag release, or the special one with the paddle. They are about the same price if you go with the steel extended release. Do they both equally increase the likelihood of a mag being released during a table start? Any other notable differences?
  12. I have been searching for two days but have found no clear answer.... Is this new paddle style mag release legal for Production (Carry Optics)??? Is the plain strait extended one they also make legal?
  13. I read somewhere that it was to break up the gun visually and make the bore axis appear lower... Could be wrong though...
  14. I had accidentally started a different topic, but I figured I would show off my handiwork here too, in case it gives anyone any good ideas. I think it feels completely better than before!
  15. In case anyone cares, my modification removed 0.14 oz from my tungsten grip module.
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