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EngineerEli

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About EngineerEli

  • Birthday 10/22/1986

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lake Zurich, IL.
  • Interests
    SHOOTING, ESPRESSO, RACING, AND ENGINEERING!
  • Real Name
    Eli Jacobson

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Sees Target (5/11)

  1. I actually figured out a few things... I took the trigger return spring out, then put everything back together, and felt the action. I also tried sliding the trigger bar in the rear assembly with the trigger out of the frame, then tried putting the trigger and pin in with out the rear trigger housing installed, with and without the slide lock in place, to isolate where the friction was really coming from. First I was getting a lot of drag from the slide lock spring. It was bent in such a way that the trigger was dragging on it badly. I recontoured that, and actually reduced the pull by maybe 8 oz or more. I also removed a little material off the side of the trigger spring arm on the crusiform to clearance it from the trigger housing, and beveled the trigger housing a little to make sure it was not dragging. I then broke the edges a little better on my FPB and smoothed the FPB lifter and re-polished both. The resulting trigger is definitely smother, and I'm now getting an average 5 lb 9 oz pull. (I did put the 6 lb trigger spring back in it) Could be a little more in it, but this is much better given the simple parts I started with. Is 5 lb 9 oz starting to sound reasonable for a 6 lb trigger spring and 4 lb striker spring and otherwise stock parts. I know I should go up to 4.5 for reliability, but I'll change that out at some point...
  2. Call the beverage in the first post what you will, It is delicious, effectively caffeinated, and is nice to look at. Try to tell me you all don't have pretty guns that are nice to look at and to shoot...
  3. Sounds like good advice but I'm trying to figure out why, with a 4 lb spring, I'm getting a 7+ lb trigger pull. I'm getting excessive friction somewhere...
  4. It wasn't terrible but I did notice that. any... did end up putting the stock one back in that came with the kit and I agree it feels better. Didn't seem to change the pull weight much if any... Sounds like my pull weight is still about 2 lbs higher than it should be...
  5. Nope... Its is my only Glock platform... I mean what should my pull weight be for the parts and polishing I have. Am I in the ballpark? It seems high to me. If I look in the crack between the slide and the frame, I can see as I pull, the trigger bar makes contact with the connector, starts moving down just slightly, then I hit the wall, which I guess means I'm trying to pull the sear down off the striker. Things just seem heavier and not as smooth as they should be, but I feel like I have polished all the sliding surfaces. It honestly feels like the wings on the trigger bar are dragging on the trigger housing, as the end of it slides down the connector. Even with the slide off, I can feel this dragging... Do people ever need to take material off the front of the wings, or off the ramped surfaces they interface on the trigger housing? I have been thinking about trying a Ghost 5 lb Tactical connector. I hear that moves the striker release point rearward a little, I wonder if that would improve anything...
  6. I just looked at it again, and thought about it a little more and I guess I jumped to conclusions on that solution. I have over travel after the striker releases, and its not like I get the trigger to the rearmost travel then only after squeezing really hard that it releases. I'm thinking that's not it... Since I'm comfortable with most forms of modification, and the worst case scenario is I have to get a replacement Glock part. I'd like to identify what the actual problem is and try to fix it, instead of just throwing more parts at it. I'm realizing the Glock trigger system is so simple, there just aren't that many things to go wrong... I can also mention that I did at one point have the trigger spring hook going around the side of the trigger bar instead of its proper place on the bottom and that made the trigger pull way worse, so now I know to make sure it is facing straight down. Other ideas of things to check?
  7. @bubba72 I think this may be my problem, just looked and it looks like it is touching! I'll have to work that area tonight and see, then report back. I knew I loved this forum, the wealth of knowledge is immense!
  8. Another thing that may be a clue to something is the action of the trigger in its current state. People always say Glocks have a rolling trigger unless you go with something like an 8 lb connector. The standard connector in my parts kit, i believe to be a 5.5, but my trigger pulls with relative ease back to a pretty defined wall, I sometimes feel the trigger go back another half a millimeter with a little extra pressure, then I just keep applying more and more pressure until the trigger breaks, no more movement ahead of the break. I actually prefer this style of 'crisp' trigger since I come from mostly single action guns, but I really wish the trigger broke between 4 and 5 lbs, 7+ is a little much , and seems like way too much for the springs and parts I have installed...
  9. I'm not entirely sure what the PN is, the only marking on the package is on the price tag, from whoever originally sold it... Maybe 40.5984 is the PN? Promised pics of it installed: I ended up getting some fresher grips, and switching back to the origonal safety for the time being, I think this gun may turn more into a collectable than anything else...
  10. I have done a lot of searching but have not been able to find the culprit. If I missed an obvious post please feel free to link me. Anyway, I was looking for something fun this winter so I decided to do a P80 build. I went with a full size G17 style. This is my first Glock (style) gun because I never liked the grip, the P80 being closer to 1911 grip angle is much better, but the front of the grip is still a little square. For that reason, I'm still learning the trigger system, and what areas are the most critical to trigger pull. I admit, I tried to minimize costs, so there is a chance the reason for my issues is cheap parts, but I would think bending, filing, sanding, and polishing can overcome most deficiencies. Heck, I have $250 DBFS9 that I did a trigger job on and it's quite satisfying. I did go threaded barrel in case I decide to mess around with a comp and go open with it, but for now its just a fun project / experiment / learning experience. With this build the lowest I have been able to get the trigger pull is about 7 lb 3oz. It does drop down a little lower with the slide lock removed... From my research this set up should be yielding a 4-5 lb pull I thought... Also if I remove the slide and pull the trigger forward, just before the trigger safety engages, then let it return slowly, I can still feel gritty ness, and it gets hung up. Does not make it all the way back on its own, when I pull the trigger it moves back about another 1-2 mm. Parts and actions taken: - Unbranded parts kit, in P80 FS940V2 Frame Stainless slide - 4 Lb Striker Spring - 6 Lb trigger spring, also trying the stock one with the kit, which actually feels better than the 6... - Reduced FPB spring - Polished FPB - Polished trigger bar (crusaform?) - Polished striker - Polished disco - Polished right side rear frame rail section that sandwiches the trigger bar - Disco bent so that it should have minimal drag. Tried to line up the inside top edge with the top corner of the trigger housing. I went a little too far, and the reset got very weak, so I bent it back out slightly from there. Any ideas on what I can take a look at, tweak, fit, polish? Thanks All!
  11. I ended up giving this one a try, and it actually fits perfectly! Not sure if that is a part that can still be purchased or if that number on the sticker is the actual part number. But the actual part in this photo, does fit in and function well in my Jericho 941.
  12. Update! I ended up giving the double sided EAA safety a try that Kneelingatlas offered up, it seemed to be the only one who's measurements checked out. Ended up fitting perfectly. I though I may have had to fit the sear spring leg retaining slot in the safety shaft, but it seemed to fit just right. I of course had to stone the sear safety lobe a little but that is expected. I'll try to post some photos when I get a chance. @kneelingatlas Thanks for helping me out with this safety!
  13. The parts we are looking for, do not have the small round captured detent as you show. It has a bore for a spring, and a little round nub for the 'tombstone' piece to press against.
  14. I posted some additional measurements in my other topic. Determined the current polymer one is too wide. The one kneelingatlas had looks like it should fit, so I'm going to give that one a try. I'll report back results.
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