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Found 22 results

  1. I'm trying to compile load data for Ramshot Silhouette. I've seen many threads that mention it so I thought I'd start one for Silhouette only to make it easier to follow. Please post your favorite Silhouette loads and make sure to include bullet type/mfg, weight, grains of powder, velocity and any other data you have like temperature as I've heard this powder is temp. sensitive. I'll be posting my first try next week with the following: 9mm (major) 7.8 grains Berry's 124g HBRN, heavy plated 1.16 OAL Velocity: tbd Temp: tbd (outdoor) Chrono Type: LabRadar Gun: CK 2011 - 5" with 2 popple holes and Bedell 3-Port (MaxComp) Titanium Compensator I really like how this powder meters and so far has been the most consistent of all powders I've used. Could be because it is so small and harder to clog but I like loading with it. We'll see what the chrono says. I'm worried about the temperature sensitivity however since I tend to cut it close at the chrono table.
  2. As of right now. Little expensive but there are there. Guess it's all relative at this point. No bulk discounts. Precision Delta Edit: sorry, guess I could have added this to the recent bullet order thread.
  3. I'am try to build my first 2011 9mm for uspas open,i did search but doesn't help me to list all parts and questions for build, need you guys building and using experience, please school me how to build it tight and accurate for open, will post all step and parts list with photo after job done ,hope can help the people who like me as well. Questions: what's the most difficult part to build my own 2011? how to build accurate open 2011? Parts List: slide: frame: cheely/ptrinity... grip: cheely/ptrinity... etc....
  4. Those that know me, know this has been a long time coming. Hope this is a helpful little nugget I wrote up. This is just some stuff I like and what I use. Having used just about every part and part combo this is what works for me. I have reasons for each part. I get alot of questions and i hope this finds some well. As always YMMV. @PatriotDefense @johnbu 9mm GT Stroked slide Beveled mag well(transition between mag well helps smooth reloads) Tuned 9mm Extractor(typically factory extractor is 38. 9mm needs more tension for reliability) Polished and Lapped rails. Hammer face angled and polish(smoothes recoil and slide movement) Hammer strut hole opened and smoothed( eliminates spring bind and friction. Also a must for única hammer ( Slide faced and comp(if needed) retimed. Breach Face inner edge chamfer and polish (smooth feeding) Extractor Channel polish( crud gets built up here. This ensures free movement ) Fireing Pin channel polish.(reliable strikes) Slide bottom front Chamfer(reduce's drag on 2nd round and reliable feeding) Slide rear bottom Chamfer(smooths recoil as slide travels over hammer) FPB removal( not needed in open. Reduces FP drag) All before adding parts. My favorite parts list and combos V12 barrel EGD Brass grips(bring weight back into hands) DAA adjustable thumrest, hand checkered by me Henning Mag well Gen 1( design keeps magwell from walking forward) Over sized Safeties, hand checkerd by me( more dexterity) Henning short Trigger(medium spring) PD Light Guide Rod PD Fireing pin(heavy for reliability) Única DA/SA heavy hammer(used as SA only) #patriotdefense bolo disconnector( eliminates pre travel) EGW sear (gives shortest reset) 6-9lb recoil spring (I prefer 8lb) PD 13lb hammer spring( works with heavy hammer and pd parts) PD reduced Power FP spring Xtra power Extractor spring 9mm Extractor PD reduced Sear spring Precision made sear cage pin made by me( eliminates sear cage + sear wobble, and a crisper disengagement on trigger press) Factory polished sear cage( less friction on moving sear) Xtreme G2 racker or Angled G1 racker. Xtreme trigger plunger Factory trigger bar (almost need to own several to pick best one) Over sized mag release(factory) IPSC Alex RTS2 mount 8 MOA RTS2 or 8 MOA slide ride Única Hammer short strut. #dgbullets 115g bullets HS6 or AA7 powder Current Slide/Frame combo Older Limited frame with better checkering and up swept beaver tail GT slide V12 9mm stroked. Also Tanfoglio 40s&w slides will and can to be tuned to run 9mm reliably with a 9mm barrel obviously. The Spare GT barrel that comes with the gun, can also be used with limited slide in conjuction with cone comp. This is basically what you have to do to the GTs and this is thee best parts and parts combos I've used and found. Enjoy.
  5. I thought I was buying HAP .356 bullets for 9mm and 125 gr .354 HAP bullets with a cannelure showed up. My fault, I ordered what I thought I was looking at from the previous day. I loaded up a few dummy rounds with it, which I couldn't really tell a difference between a .355 in the way it sat atop the belled case mouth and it seemed to load well. The case ended up at .377 which is the same as my .355s. So, is there anything inherently wrong with loading 9mm with this bullet? Will the cannelure or smaller diameter give my any unintended consequences? Should I take precautions regarding the powder load? I was intending to use 4.2 of Titegroup. Your comments are appreciated.
  6. Looking for recipes. Purchased Winchester Super Handicap by mistake. Somebody said that it can be used for loading pistol ammo. Just trying to use what I have. Have different grains of bullets. Anything would help.
  7. Hey guys I’m hoping for some help because I’ve never owned a 1911/2011 and I’m planning on jumping feet first and doing a build. i currently own a Glock 40 for the woods, an HK USP45 tac for home, and a 9mm target gun. I’ve been getting into 80% lowers and Cnc and I have been considering trying to replace all 3 pistols with essentially 1 2011 frame/trigger and a 9mm, 10mm, and 45 slide. Is it possible to interchange slides like this? Are the magazines all the same size? any help would be greatly appreciated, it’s hard to find info online and I really am jumping into This blind.
  8. Which one is more accurate ? Truncated Cone, Flat Nose or Round Nose in 9mm. Tell us your pistol set up. (Make, Model, Barrel, Barrel Length, etc.)
  9. Looking to have my shadow 2 machined for an optic (either a dpp or rmr) and see there quite a few “methods” of getting the dot to mount to the slide. I’ve narrowed it down to: Primary Machine Cajun Gunworks Fire for Effect Ive seen a few methods in which there are clearly exposed threads from the mounting screws. Does anyone have experience with any of the above shops?
  10. I'm interested in loading some frangible cartridges for a nearby shoot house. Anyone have experience using frangiblebullets.com? In addition, the site recommends I use 85 grain 9mm jacketed round load data for their 65 grain bullets. Would load data provided by https://drtammo.com/load-data/ be valid regardless of the fact that they are for JHP bullets? I'd like to get opinions and shared experiences from the community here. Thanks all.
  11. I just bought three 9mm sample packs from Blue Bullets to try in my CZ Shadow-2. They are the 125gr round nose, 135gr TC and 147 gr round nose. They are all .355 in diameter. I have a couple of pounds of HP38 and a little Titegroup . According to Blue bullets I should use recipes based on lead bullets that is the same size. Does anyone have any recipes that I can use as a good starting point with the min and max loads.
  12. Hi folks... As I mentioned in my original intro post, I am a retired Army guy that is just now getting into competitive shooting. I am currently setting up my Dillon 650 to load 9MM. Because of my reliance on a VERY fixed income, I need to avoid a lot of indiscriminate buying and testing of components.... Here is where I am: Primers will be either Fiocchi or Winchester (because I can get them reasonably, and do not want to worry about "hard" CCI or "soft" Federal...). I am purchasing some of both for trial data..... Bullets and cases will vary depending on what I can reasonably source. Right now I am buying some cases in 5000 lots (mixed head stamps..). Bullets will probably be Berry's or one of the other plated bullets for range practice. I plan to test and load a more "capable" jacketed bullet for match use. My intent is to try all three standard weight bullets, but will probably select 124 or 147 because of the recoil impulse. So with that in mind... Here is my quandary. Powder..??? I don't want to buy (and WONT buy..) multiples of possible iterations just because they "might" work. So here is my criteria (admittedly, I am a little in the dark here...). I have selected six potential candidates to make 9mm MINOR floor. Those are: Unique; Silhouette; True Blue; Power Pistol; Win 231; and Universal. I also realize that there is a multitude of possibilities and an equal number of opinions..!!! What I would like to do is select THREE choices for testing. I am trying to avoid VhitaVuory powders because of the ridiculous pricing. I also do not favor powders that are "compressed loads" Sooo, a medium density powder that meters well (Dillon 650...) and makes the floor at a reasonable pressure. Truth told, I am also trending against Silhouette. There is a distinct lack of Silhouette data for 9mm published in manuals. However, I realize that there are some folks here who swear by it... and of course some who swear AT it as well. So, if you folks could just recommend your three top choices and your reasoning. They don't have to be part of my six choices. I am open to being convinced...if you have a reasoned approach. Here is a little Gen Info background. I am NOT a newbie to shooting (of any kind..) nor to reloading. My Dillon is 18 years old. I have more die sets than I can count. I started reloading with a single stage in 1969 for rifle calibers. My handgun loading experience is pretty light though... mostly hunting loads in big bore handguns (44 Mag. and 454 Casull..). Please hold forth... You won't embarrass me or hurt my feelings.... Sorry this is so long... :-(
  13. This is all "pretend" but I need you guys to answer solid, truthful, and what you thoughts are. ****Admin create Yes/No pole if possible**** and room to explain reasons. MANUFACTURERS, AND COMPANY'S DO NOT COMMENT!!! ( Let's say (pretend) I've got a whole bunch of threaded bull barrels just spun up match grade...the beesknees. But then I blow your face away by also saying more universal and I also have a pile of NOT GT comps. Both sizes and items fit, limited, S2, and Gold team. Let's "pretend" I'm not going to release this stuff or even begun designing únill I've got a bunch of input. Also don't get too excited yet. This is purely hypothetical. What if you could buy a GT, ditch the v12 and factory barrel and drop parts readily available, simpler than 2011, as fast, soft ect and at almost 1/2 the price of a Domina or aNY Custom? Who would be like F*** yeah!!! And actually buy a Tanfo open gun. If a pretend package was available? Like I'm gonna just say GT 2k and open package 600. So let's just pretend about 3k you have a shorty or middy that's simpler than a 2011, same stroke length, and all the same damn benefits. In? Or Out. Even if you don't shoot or plan on open let's hear some weigh ins. Pretend I won the lottery. But let's not get over zealous or make assumptions. I sincerely am baffled. If the parts are there, for a BETTER, SIMPLER, platform wouldn't people build, or is the 2011 thing a followers fad and it's just had more market so everyone is worried about taking a chance and just plays follower? Pioneer
  14. After a long wait I finally got my hands on a 929 to use in place of my custom 686 plus for ICORE Open class. I decided to give you all a detailed report. It is a lengthy write up but a review should be to include all you should know. Soooo... lets begin: I was excited about finally upgrading to an 8 shot from a 7. Also happy thinking alot of the usual tuning work to make a revolver competition ready would already be done as advertised. Specifically a smooth fitted Performance center action, chamfered charge holes, and a sharp broach cut barrel. Before I describe what I found let me say it is unrealistic to expect that even a performance center gun would be comprable to a full custom worked gun. I expected to do some little detail work. But in the great words of Jerry Reed "Brother I didn't know it was gonna that much"...After inserting some snap caps and running the action in both single and double I found it to be... well unexpectedly rough and a heavy pull. In single action the "clicks" were not define and sharp but rather dull as if there was cotton packed in the action. The pull weight to break the hammer was a bit heavier than expected but not overly horrible. In double action it was gritty and rough like dragging plastic across 80 grit with a stacking up pull. For a comparible reference my 1987 made model 36 untouched from the factory was crisper and more pleasant on the trigger finger. So after disassembling the action I found very little evidence of any fitting what so ever. The only contact surfaces between the hammer and sears that was even touched was the single action sear hook on the trigger body and the double action sear on the hammer. They were both rough ground to the spec'd angle but left unstoned and rough! All other contacting trigger to hammer surfaces were untouched. When I say untouched I mean the mating points were riding on the flash (the excess material that oozes out the mold seam in the MIM (aka cintering) process) of the hammer and trigger. Also the rebound slide surfaces were rough with uneven surfaces. The frame surfaces where the rebound slide rides was also left as a horribly rough machined surface. There were more resistance prone surfaces in this thing than any other Smith revo I have ever seen. Couple that with a grossly heavy mainspring and 18lb rebound spring you better have a strong trigger finger. So after a complete stoning with a fine india stone to break the flash followed by a hard Arkansas (white) stone to all mating surfaces and inner frame including the burrs on the side plate. Then lightening the mainspring and a replacement 12-13lb rebound spring the action was smooth, crisp, and non stacking. Now it clicks like breaking glass and cycles without bruising my finger!! On a side note, contrary to popular belief, the MIM process creates a very dense and hard part that is very durable. It is just as durable and in most cases more durable than just a color case hardening. I bobbed the hammer, smoothed & rounded the trigger. A die grinder was necessary to cut off the hammer spur as a hack saw was futile to the job whereas Ive hacksawed color case hardened hammers easily. Now onto the Cylinder. To advertise it had chamfered charge holes is not untrue but a stretch on the implied result. The only chamfering was on the extractor that emconpasses 40% of the charge hole edge. The other 60% of the charge hole is of the actual cylinder and left untouched. It was a sharp 90 degree edge that was quite sharp. Sharp enough to shear copper or lead by just dropping in a moonclip when they did drop in cleanly. During test moonclip reloads with dummy rounds the edges of the case mouths hung up on that edge more often than not despite a normal taper crimp. So a full chamfer is a must here. Forget the hand chamfer tools here. To get good results cutting titanium you need a carbide cutter run at higher spindle speeds with a constant oil bath to prevent overheating the poor heat disapating Ti. If no mill or fixtures at your disposal your sending it out for this work....HSS cutters on hand run tools are OUT!! The cylinder was also quite hard to open. The centerpin lacked a good radius on the tip and was heavily marred and marked up. The Center pin tip looked like the end of a worn out end mill. To add to that the bolt (aka cylinder catch) was short stroked and could barely push the centerpin out enough to clear the latch hole. I'm here to tell you it was a bastadrly beast to pop open. Forget popping it open with just your index finger of your strong hand for those stage start reloads off the bench. After dressing the center pin tip radius up + a polish and giving the bolt some additional forward movement it opened smoothly as it should. I have to mention this is also the first time I ever had to address the centerpin and bolt marriage on a smith. Additionally the cylinder turned on the yoke like a brake drume on over adjusted break shoes. After polishing out the drag marks on the yoke it was able to spin tightly and effortlesly. Now lets adress the barrel...yeah theres more! The forcing cone is cut and left rough as hell. ALmost looks like tapered pipe threads in there. I know this is a contested issue as to whether or not it is critical to the accuracy. My opinion is if its not as good as it could be it is certainly not going to help the issue. So a cleaner cut on the forcing cone is something easy to achieve and should therefore be expected from the factory. So I am contemplating dressing it up or just recut to a taylor style..TBD. Now the crown....its deplorable to say the least. The recessed 90 cut left a rough marred surface I would be ashamed of. Also the lands are left with curled in burred edges at the crown. This is indicative to a dull cutter used on the crown after the barrel was brached. Makes you wonder how long there pushing there tooling to save a buck? In an effort to reduce chattering when re-crowning I shot a cylinder worth of stiff jacketed bullets to knock them down. It sheared off and deposited enough lead and guilding metal in the crowns recess to swage a full 17 HMR projectile. So I re-cut the crown with an 11 degree cut and chamfered the bore to crown edge with a brass button and 500 grit lapping compound. Ok thats the mechanical now onto the astetics. The finish was well done and matched between all stainless parts. I have to say the chrome plating on the hammer and trigger are an ok to match the rest of the gun but become less than pleasing as they marr easily. In short order it gives the hammer and trigger a toy cap gun look actually. A stainless set bead blasted would be more astetically fitting and better matching. Of course a matte polished stainless finish to the whole gun would be a nice upgrade to its looks but that is a matter of opinion and not the end of the world here. The side plate mates well as does the yoke to the frame. But the air gap between the barrel underlug and frame was a bit hard to accept...a tighter fit would be nice. As my preference I would also like to see a relief cut to the bottom of the left side blast shield/shroud. It would eliviate any interference with a moonclip load. Very little clearance between the path to the charge hole and that shield potruding out. As far as weight and handling goes its positive there. The 929 is considerably lighter than one might think by the mass of this beast thanks in part to the Titanium cylinder. It moves quick and easily during transitions. The balance is quite good and not nose heavy as it might appear at first glance. The longer barrel is a welcomed aspect for those of you who will be using the iron sights for a forgiving sight radius. In conclusion my thoughts are that this revolver has alot going for it for competitive use. Good balance, easy to drive, and manipulate. WIth a "finally tuned action"..(yes I meant "finally" as in not having it when you expected and waiting to get it...my dig of a joke) it is as smooth and crisp as any fine worked revolver out there. The 9mm (9x19) brings distinct advantages to the table with with it's vast availability and choices, small case volume for more uniform ignition shot to shot, short case for reliable extraction and charging in speed loads, low recoil, and of course the flexibility of 8 rounds. As far as accuracy goes I have not extensively tested it yet as my attention has been on working out the variables that would hinder accuracy results. That coupled with living in the Anarctic region of the Northeast has detered me from venturing out to the range. Not easy to comfortably shoot for precision when your dressed like the younger brother from "A Christmas Story". I will report back on that when it warms up. Anyway I believe this is the most versatile and most capable revolver platform ever available for revolver run & gun to date. It unfortunately requires some work to achieve its potential out of the box. It does not by any means live up to the results expected from the performance center. To put it plainly the extra cost associated to the moniker is simply not reflected into what you get. All in all the lack of addresed detail for the pricepoint is its only downfall really. The durability and capability are there just needing to be brought out with some work. So to advertise it is "competition ready out of the box" is not the case. I would re-coin it's slogan to "the ultimate competition revolver thats almost there out of the box" Thank you for reading my detailed review and I hope this helps in getting to know this new kid on the block. I am looking forward to your comments!
  15. I just moved my 9mm from my 650 to my 1050. In my 650 I loaded 9mm no problemo. Same gear on my 1050-problem About 1 in every 70 cases has the primer not get knocked out, Then the swagger smashes it back up into the case. Wasn't so bad at first but getting progressively worse. I called Dillon and talked with the tech, who surprisingly wasn't that helpful. his solution was that 'its a known issue, just put the die as low as you can and deal with it.' It is a factory Dillon decapping die. I've tried any combination of die as low as possible, die backed off a little, shellplate tight, shellplate loose etc. Nothing seems to change the problem. I have noticed that when this happens, the primer is barely hanging onto the shell, almost as if the it is BARELY not knocking it out, or the primer is stuck on the end of the pin and is getting sucked back up when. Pictures attached: How far the primer is out of the pocket after the case goes in the die, and 2 the primer getting wrecked by the swagger. Any advice? longer decapping pin?
  16. So I've been kicking this around for some time now and I think I'm at the point where I'm going to do it. I carry. I carry everyday. I carry everywhere I am legally allowed to carry. I shoot my carry gun ... occasionally. Actually, I get some rounds through it somewhat frequently. Just last weekend I shot my new carry gun to insure it's all dialed in. I was shooting it out to 20 yards and was doing ok. Reality is I was shooting about 7 inch groups or so with the new carry gun at 20 yards. Probably 5 inches consistent with the flyer or two that would grow it to 7 or 8 inches. Anyhow, it just got me to thinking, I should shoot a match with my EDC rig. Now, I carry appendix and that won't fly but everything else should work. I could do my IWB holster (4:00 position) and IWB mag pouch and just have the second mag in my pocket JIC. I wouldn't do this consistently - I like the competition side of things too much - but I think occasionally running the EDC rig better covers me for if I every do need to use it. Just wondering if anyone has shot a few matches with their true EDC rig and what the experiences were like. I'm shooting my new Sig P365 and the ten round capacity is actually pretty beneficial for this situation alone. Thanks in advance! Jack
  17. Okay guys, so I read through over a dozen forums that mentioned loading 9 Major for open division using CFE pistol. I found everything from starting loads, to burn rates, to people claiming it is the exact same powder as WAC with a copper cleaning additive. What I haven’t found, is anyone discussing the difference in “feel” or dot tracking compared to the popular 9 major powders like Autocomp, HS6, etc. Is there any reason that CFE pistol isn’t more prominent in Open division? Excuse my ignorance, I’ve only loaded minor thus far, but I just bought an open gun and would like to keep as many components the same as possible. Thanks in advance!
  18. Hello, My my name is Alex and am looking forward to starting USPSA in Carry Optics. I am happily married and a father of 2 (2.5 yrs & 1mth). I reside in San Diego, Ca and am planning to Dallas, TX by the end of the year. I plan on running my Glock 19 with an RMR. I come from a “tactical” shooting background and just want to stay active and become a better more consistent shooter. Pictures below i plan on running, minus a few things[emoji1687]Here we go!
  19. I posted for the first time a while back about my newly rediscovered enjoyment of reloading 9mm and .44Mag. I have a vintage 1986 Square Deal press, which between Dillon and me now has a few newer parts and overall works great. I am gradually getting wiser as to how to ensure quality at various points in my process-installing an inexpensive light near the bullet setting station, to ensure powder level looks right, using a case gauge on the finished rounds BEFORE I take them anywhere near a range. I also check and record the COL for that particuar batch. I've become a brass collecting fiend on my range visits. I sort the brass pretty carefully, culling out the .380, .40, +P, etc. I then clean the brass in a tumbler-really prefer the walnut media for getting them clean. I notice though with these once or more-fired cases that I'm getting anywhere from 5-15% which fail to fit in the case gauge. Most fit great, easy in easy out; these few absolutely refuse. Haven't traced it to a particular brand. I ensured my sizing die was going all the way down the length of the case, I began checking COL more frequently, thinking maybe I'm seating the bullet too deeply and bulging the case. I spend a little while after every loading session with the bullet puller, trying to save the bullets and powder. Recently I heard about an "undersized" sizing die made by Lee and maybe some others, which sizes the case .001-.003 smaller than spec. Supposedly competition shooters who want to avoid ANY problems feeding use them, as do some who experience some problems with re-using range brass. I have an RCBS partner press I picked up for a good price, thinking I'd use it for sizing cast bullets. The undersized die would fit this; and I could pre-size my used brass before putting them thru the Square Deal. Does anyone have any experience with these? Is it a good idea? Should you seat the bullet not as deep, since shrinking the case might increase the pressure?
  20. After a long time of shooting/carrying 9mm Glocks, had a strong desire to try a 9mm 1911 style pistol! Never did get away from my love of the .45acp/1911, so after much research, I went to Bud's last weekend and picked up my Springfield EMP4.Grabbed some of my match 147g GSSF loads, a few 135g coated practice loads, and purchased a couple of boxes of the Federal 124g American Eagles at the store. After running each mag with the 124s for functionality, I was amazed how well these performed in the EMP4! All testing was done at 10yds at Bud's indoor range. Lighting was great at the target stops but a bit weak for the FO front site.....EMP4 didn't care for the 147g CMJs, and did so-so with the 135g coated. So now I'm faced with starting my load development for the EMP4 9mm, and wondering what the consensus is here for initial bullet weight?Thinking about trying some 124/125g JHPs from Zero, etc....or should I look to the 115g pills that I've never used in any of my 9mm reloads! Have noticed that Atlanta Arms only offers their "Elite" ammo in 100, 115, and 147g! No 124/125g in this Elite line. So, I'm a bit confused there......Normally like to use N320......but have plenty of Bullseye, Titegroup, CFE Pistol, WW231, and N310 though I don't think it would do well in 9mm. Accuracy is my #1 goal.......guess I'm just not familiar enough with the smaller pills (115, 124/125), and not sure where to start, bullet wise. But again, the EMP4 sure liked the 124 AEs and never missed a beat!Truly appreciate any info you can share!Thanks,Ben
  21. So I figured I should start this as a replacement to my scattered notes on shooting, this way they are in one place. Maybe others can help or my experience can help someone else out. I will try my best to organize posts for my own and other's sake. It may very well turn into an actual diary since shooting sports have quickly become a true passion of mine.
  22. This thing is awesome. In a small brief testing period of my own, it far beats out the V12. Less Powder, 115g Major, and much softer in hand. I do not have this barrel reamed by the good folks at PD yet. I was very anxious to test it out and quickly made up some loads I knew wouldn't touch major with a 115 from the V12, but Might with the Durso comp. Sure enough I made 166pf with 115g Blues over 7.9g of Power pistol. Loaded @ .....1.06. I can't wait to do more testing with a better powder and after reaming. Thoughts are on AA7.
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