Open gun compensator rotating

[rr4406pak]

I have an Open pistol where I have recently noticed the compensator is rotating.

As you look down the muzzle end of the barrel it is rotating off counter-clockwise.

It is to the point where the muzzle brake it is rubbing on the recoil system and I can see the wear on the bottom of the comp as well. The gun is still functioning fine but I know its only a matter of time before this locks the gun up.

Is this a job for the gunsmith who built it? Or is this something that can be fixed on the bench at home?

[Maximis228]

Heat it up... Take it off... Clean the threads and crown... Reapply locktite... Let sit for 24 hours.... shoot.

 

Long term, get some set screws added to ensure it doesnt move even if the locktite breaks free again.

 

Red breaks free regularly IMO. I would go with a higher temp green such as 620 or 609.

[nhyrum]

Rocsett(spelling?) Is great for comps. It takes heat really well but can be picky when it comes to application. You can take it apart, clean it, and reapply a thread locker. May or may not last.

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[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: Take the comp off and drill and tap a 6-32 holes for a set screw. Clean everything up with brake clean or another solvent. Use some red LocTite and reinstall the comp. Let dry for 24 hours. Dimple barrel with tap drill(don't drill into the bore). Install 6-32 setscrew with blue Loctite and let it set for 24 hours. Make sure the setscrew does not sit proud of the comp. Here is one I did for my new 9mm open pistol. Thanks, Eric

[zzt]

No matter which Loktite you use, the comp will shoot loose in a monster match.  A 64 round steel stage shot like a machine gun definitely heats up the comp.  So a couple/three of them and the comp WILL loosen.  The only solution, other than the one piece barrel/comp combo I now use, is to install one or two set screws as Eric mentioned.

 

You are still going to have to remove the comp at least once a year to clean and renew the Loktite.  DO NOT use the Loctite cleaner and thread conditioner.  If you do you will only have 15 seconds to screw the comp on and clock it.  That is next to impossible if you have to line up set screws.

[Bwillis]

If you do it I recommend loctite 603 retaining compound 

[open17]

38 minutes ago, Bwillis said:

If you do it I recommend loctite 603 retaining compound 

603 works well.    Last couple I've done I used 680.     Regular red just doesn't seem to hold up.

Even with the loctite a single 6-32 is required for peace of mind.

[terrapin]

Stupid question... doesn’t the company need to come off each time you clean them?


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[zzt]

You can also try Blue 2422 and red 2620.  Both go up to 650 degrees.  603 and 680 are only rated for 300 degrees.  Red 272 is what I had been using.  It is good up to 450 degrees.  That is not high enough if you are machine gunning massive round counts.  I didn't find out about 2620 until after I had ordered the Trubore blanks.  Had I know sooner I might not have been so hung up on one piece barrels/comps.

[sc68cal]

On 8/6/2020 at 4:59 PM, nhyrum said:

Rocsett(spelling?) Is great for comps. It takes heat really well but can be picky when it comes to application. 

 

I tried Rocksett and I couldn't get it to hold for more than 10 rounds, after multiple application attempts. Gave up and used loctite 272

[Posvar]

My open guns all have the set screw and I’ve got them pretty hot with zero issues. 

[Whoops!]

Domina Xtreme comp is pinned just like a properly installed AR gas block.  Great design, shouldn’t ever rotate or need loctite if done correctly.

 

Tanfoglio did go an extra step with the extended frame to hide the pin, very few open guns will hide it.

[taxil343]

I use red 272 and have to remove the comp and re-apply 3-4 times a year. I use it as an opportunity to completely tear the gun down and clean the bottom end. Just part of life shooting open. 

[Nic_USPSA_C]

I built a shorty and the comp sits inside the frame, I do not use any thread locker, just tighten it up and the frame keeps it from rotating.  
 

So far so good.  Time will tell if this will work out.

[yigal]

46 minutes ago, Nic_USPSA_C said:

I built a shorty and the comp sits inside the frame, I do not use any thread locker, just tighten it up and the frame keeps it from rotating.  
 

So far so good.  Time will tell if this will work out.

i used this method for 15 y.  on 6" barrel  with alum. comp.  without nothing . accuracy was ~1/2" at 25 y. 

comp. still looks like new. 

[bigboy69]

On 8/6/2020 at 4:29 PM, Maximis228 said:

Heat it up... Take it off... Clean the threads and crown... Reapply locktite... Let sit for 24 hours.... shoot.

I use green high heat loctite

 

 

[Nic_USPSA_C]

On 9/9/2020 at 9:33 AM, yigal said:

i used this method for 15 y.  on 6" barrel  with alum. comp.  without nothing . accuracy was ~1/2" at 25 y. 

comp. still looks like new. 

 

Thanks for the info I am glad to hear that this method works.

[AcePrater]

Having similar issue with mine. It held for a while but started to come out of time once again - Its been a *fun process of dykem and facing the comp to the shoulder of the threaded CZ barrel. My latest attempt lasted a local match. Using 272 with no set screw.

I'm newb to comps and open, just shoot local matches, no all day burn em down out of town matches.

 

So... I'm back to taking it off, then reinstalling with a set screw or roll pin.

I'm leaning toward the roll pin, as that seems easier to manage in the field/on the bench. If I go Pin, should I try blue locktite too, or just leave it as is. Any other distince advantages/dis advantages of using a rollpin? seems like it is not used that often compared to set screw. why?

 

 

I was also thinking about sticking the gun in the freezer and then warming up the comp with a heat gun to break the 272. I don't know if it would really help any but well see.

 

Do ya'll swab/spray the ports to keep carbon from sticking? I've heard that's a thing.

 

[Bakerjd]

Best we have found is loctite 680 for steel comps. And loctite 680 for ti comps plus pin the comp is it has issues coming loose. Ti comps seem to have the most issues coming loose. 

[jim vaughan]

Or just use thin barrels and cone comps. No problems at all since there is minimal torque on the comp and lots of threads to hold them together.

[Benevolence]

On 8/7/2020 at 1:22 PM, terrapin said:

Stupid question... doesn’t the company need to come off each time you clean them?


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The compensator doesn't need to come off on a 1911/2011. Unless you've got a bushing that you need to remove or change out,  but most of these are bull barrels without bushings. Barrel pulls out the front of the slide.

Edited November 12, 2020 by Benevolence

[Sarge]

On 9/23/2020 at 5:33 PM, AcePrater said:

 

So... I'm back to taking it off, then reinstalling with a set screw or roll pin.

I HAVE NEVER PERSONALLY SEEN A PISTOL COMP WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN A SET SCREW.

I was also thinking about sticking the gun in the freezer and then warming up the comp with a heat gun to break the 272. I don't know if it would really help any but well see.

JUST HIT IT WITH A TORCH FOR 4-5 SECONDS AND IT SHOULD SCREW RIGHT OFF.

 

Do ya'll swab/spray the ports to keep carbon from sticking? I've heard that's a thing.

I HAVE A MINI BOTTLE OF LANOLIN CASE LUBE IN MY RANGE BAG THAT I SPRAY INTO THE TOP OF THE COMP WVERY FEW MATCHES. I ACTUALLY THINK IT HELPS A LITTLE. BUT I BLAST MINE WITH GLASS BEADS EVERY WINTER SO IT REALLY DOESNT MATTER

 

 

[AcePrater]

cool, thx. I might try that lanolin lube. I have a similar bottle.

[AcePrater]

Tried a couple more mags this past weekend. Comp spun more out of time. took it back to the smith. will add another set screw and see how that rolls.

Made my first pistol grip with local walnut. looks like a beaver chewed it for now, but feels ohh so right in the hand.

[MuayThaiJJ]

I have to pin and weld mine to comply, but in my case it will not move. So you can do that!