Bakerjd

Ahh yeah it does. Thanks!

From the very few people whome I know that have shot JJ's, one a close friend, they all say the gun runs awesome and recoil is very good. Not sure about longevity but honestly the 92 series is a pretty tough pistol. Slide is already light as s#!t as well.

Update on my preference. BUL Trophy SAW. I just got done setting up my DW PM9, blended magwell, trigger tuning, ect... and it just doesnt cycle like my BULs. I'm on the fence of tinkering a little more with tuning recoil spring, firing pin stop (they use a square cut one) and seeing if that will help but my go to now days is the trophy SAW 9mm. I have two and while slide to frame fit isnt as tight, a good thing IMO, barrel lock up, recoil impulse, sights are better. All 3 I use a 135gn DG bullet over 3.4gn of titegroup with various primers and range pick up brass. I can consistently get .18 splits with all 3 but the BULs I can do 2A with in 1/16th of an inch 95% of the time and the front sight comes back super fast. With the DW the shots are spread out further and I feel like I'm waiting on the front sight. YMMV, Josh

Man to be honest I dont know of anyone doing full trigger guard shaping anymore. With the advent of 1911 frames being made with square trigger guards by a few high quality companies, SVI and JEM, I'm betting it's a thing of the old days. Actually cone to think about it Jason Burton at Heirloom Precision does them. I'm not sure what his wait times are these days as I'm not on facebook any longer but I know he only builds full custom guns and doesnt work on customer supplied guns these days.

Thanks everyone. I'm going to change the way I lube a little and forge on. Spray in bag first, put cases in, shake around, then into the ready to use brass bucket. Should work better that way.

I just wish clubs around me would actually let you do a reshoot.

When I was at locap nats they had a booth and I asked if they were going to bring over a 40cal version. The response was less then a yes but not a straight out no. Basicly they plan to continue building the TSO in 40 cal for the US market/USPSA and overseas the TS2 I belive he said was staying in 9mm. Wasnt a really definite answer and left me a little confused. Also when asked about the DWX they sort of nicely dismissed the question.

Sweet!

Pretty new to reloading and still figuring everything out. I've kept hearing that even though you dont need to use case lube with the carbide sizing die it's still a good idea. Everyone said to get the hornady one shot stuff. Tried getting it local and nobody had any. I did find Lyman Quick Slick case lube spray and from what I found online, not much really, it sounded like a decent alternative. So I gotta can. Put some 9mm cases in a ziplock bag and sprayed it in amd shook it up. Dumped cases is case feeder. Proceeded to start making my 9 minor ammo amd was quite surprised at how much smoother everything was going. Up until I had a jam and had to stop mid stoke, Dillon RL1100, and reset the handle which turned the shell plate. If this happens I pull everything off the shell plate, inspect, and reinsert in shell plate. I found a smashed up case in one of the spots amd decided to just restart. I went to dump the cases with powder in them back into the powder dropper and some of the titegroup stuck to the side of the case wall. That's never happened when I didnt use case lube so now I'm wondering if I just messed up about 200 rounds I did before this happened? If I did it is what it is but what I dont want is a squib and a boom at practice or a match.

I have the Lyman pro series dies a really like them. I couldn't get the Lee U die to work for me at all, it just kept pushing the decap rod back out the die.

Very possible. And pretty normal. Check out Prasky Gunworks, Sean does this a lot.

I LOVE mine. I have a bad eye that is extremely light sensitive and the golds work great for some sun light but not always. The red ones are perfect for very bright direct sun. But some pasters look like a dark green on the targets with them. I notice it when pasting but not when actually shooting the stage.

That's how I would do it. The pin itself should be fairly easy to tap out.

@RadarTech thanks for the info. I had a comped spot from LA Police gear last year I won through John Vlieger but ended up having to back out. I am trying to decide how to use the last few vacation days this year and this match is on the list to choose from.

Each persons test would have varying results. On my new setup with it having an open and limited top end and me being left handed I decided to have the right side dust cover drilled and tapped. The gun is going to be on the heavy side in either configuration as I used a Cheely XWF frame, LSI steel grip, and Limcat heavy magwell. My test uses hit and slow mo play back of cell phone camera. Both static shooting, draw and fire, draw fire reload amd fire again. All done with a timer and a backdrop that has lines so I can see how far up/dn the gun moved.