Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About zzt

  • Birthday 10/25/1947

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Berwyn, PA
  • Real Name
    Steve Thomer

Recent Profile Visitors

5,585 profile views

zzt's Achievements

Back From the Dead

Back From the Dead (11/11)

  1. Stafford, it works just like USPSA. Don't pull the trigger until your dot is on the target. You don't have to double tap, so hit the target and move on. You don't have to run. Stage plan just like USPSA. Decide on what order you will engage the targets, then stick to the plan. You will be fine. You are not a newb shooter, just new to SCSA. Load your mags full if you like. You are not going to need all those rounds. Have fun.
  2. I disagree with loading the mags up, unless you have too few mags. The extra weight slows transitions. No matter what I'm shooting I only put 10 in a mag. That way it always feels the same. If you blow through ten rounds on a string, that string is toast. I always bring 6 loaded mags to the table. Tell the RO on the stage you are a new to SCSA shooter. Ask him to let you go last, or at least near the end. Watch how the other shooters attack the stage. Air gun it to see what is the most comfortable for you. Practice your surrender draw. You don't do it often in USPSA. You'll do it every draw in SCSA. Taking .2 seconds off each beep to bang draw adds up to .8 seconds a stage. Believe it or not, that's significant.
  3. Made a big difference. Less reciprocating mass is almost always a good thing.
  4. Do not use quarters. Believe it or not the bolt will hammer them concave. Use Delrin spacers instead. I use the spacers that come with the MBX short stroke kit. I believe Taccom has them as well.
  5. McMaster Carr sells these roll pins. The 1/4" dia. come in 100 packs. The 5/32 firing pin retainer comes in 500 unit packs. Both are about $12 each. BTW, check the diameter of your pins. I don't have a Taccom bolt and they may be different. I don't know the extractor pin dim. Just take it out and measure. BTW2, I ordered a spare bolt and carry it to every match. Learned the hard way. Also, it is much lighter and smaller than the hammer, punches and pins you would have to carry to effect a field repair. Leave the pins and tools at home. When you disassemble for cleaning, reassemble with new pins.
  6. I'm going to re-emphasize the importance of actually shooting both guns, and hopefully several versions of each. That's exactly what I did before buying the CZ 75 TS Limited gun. There were seven TS shooters at my club and lots of 2011 shooters. I liked both and could have gone either way. I wanted a gun fast and I was knee deep into a 1911 build, so I didn't have time to build a 2011. So I bought the TS. It took real competition matches to finally make me realize the TS was the superior Limited gun in my hands. One of my shooting buddies bought a stock TSO and shot it all last year. He complained about the ergos, and frankly never shot it all that well. At the match on Sat he was squaded with me. After a couple/three stage I commented on how much faster and better he was shooting. He said he had been taking lessons. He also told me the instructor told him the TSO was not the gun for him. It didn't fit him well and he had trouble taking the safety off. He was offered a 2011 Limited gun to shoot and it fit him to a T. So he ordered a short block and Cheely SS grip from Brazos and built the gun. He loves it. He has a history of buying guns for Limited without trying them first. He bought a Sig Legend, shot it for two weeks and sold it. Before that was another gun. Same thing. Same with the TSO, although he did shoot it for a year. So it really doesn't matter that I say for me the TS was the superior Limited gun. It doesn't matter if someone else swears a 2011 is the top pick. What matters is how each performs in your hands. To discover that you have to shoot them all. That's what I did and didn't waste any money buying the wrong thing.
  7. I'm not going to pull quotes from selected posters, so I'll just opine. I started reloading using Dillon dies. I wasn't very impressed with them. I decided on a new reloader and went with the Hornady LnL AP. I'm glad I did. I also use Hornady dies except for the Lee FCD. I started with 45 ACP and 40SW. both were super easy to load and fit 100% into the Shockbottle case gauge. I had to quit Limited because no matter what I tried I could not see the front sight. So I decided to more to Open. All my friends were complaining about loading 9mm, especially the 9 major shooters. So I went with 40 Open. Loved it. Later on I decided I wanted one piece barrel/comps and 9mm was all I could find. Having 45 and 40 down pat, I just did the same for 9mm. It didn't work out as expected. The brass required more effort to resize and the expander/funnel kept sticking in the case mouth. I never had to lube cases in 45 and 40, and didn't want to in 9mm. I was afraid of setback. I now use only once-fired, same HS, fully processed and roll sized brass. It sales through the press without interruption and fits 100% into the Shockbottle gauge. For 9mm minor reloads, I batch process mixed HS brass I buy once fired from a local indoor range, or pick up at my club's the pistol range. I tumble the cases, then decap and expand. Hornady sizing/decapping die and Redding two step expander. Then I tumble them again to remove the lube. When I am ready to load minor they sail through the press just like the fully processed brass does. Regarding the Lee FCD. They resize all the way down straight walled cases. Since 9mm is a tapered case, it only sizes the top portion where the bullet sits. Lee FCDs are sized for jacketed bullets. If you use lead or poly coated bullets that are oversized, the FCD WILL swage the portion of the bullet inside the case. It makes no difference in accuracy. As far as a one stage press goes, no way on earth. I just shoot too much. Even with a case feeder and bullet feeder I still have to stop every 100 rounds to refill the primer tube. Annoying.
  8. It will help. Also, a Lee factory carbide crimp die will help. In fact, it will cure the problem in almost all instances. You have to watch out for weak or split brass. For my 9mm major loads I buy once-fired, fully processed, same HS brass. The brass is resized, decapped, primer pocket waged, roll sized, polished and lightly waxed. So far I've had no setback in 12,000 cases loaded. I use SWMP/AA7 powder which is VERY compressible, so I don't want to take chances. All our local matches are lost brass, so I shoot it once and leave it.
  9. The DAA/Mr. Bulletfeeder funnel does not require any flare for jacketed or plated bullets. You can put a minute flare in for oversized poly coated bullets. I use these powder funnels/expanders for every caliber I load. They prevent a lot of problems.
  10. My calibrated postal scale says 11.2 oz. Everyone else I know who has one say 11+ oz. I don't actually care, but I do consider 10 oz. to be false advertising. I guess it is possible they do have one barrel that weight 10, but that isn't what they are shipping. BTW, I said I didn't shoot CCI SV in the Raptor for accuracy, because it didn't work. CCI SV has always been a lot more accurate in all my guns than MiniMags.
  11. 22LR bullets, whether lubed lead or copper washed, spew vaporized lead when they exit the muzzle. That lead condenses on the first cool thing it hits. That's why 22 comps gunk up so quickly. In a shrouded barrel that vapor condenses on the shroud just in front of the muzzle. It continues to build up and add weight. That's why Taccom offers a rotary scraping tool to allow you to remove it. Wiland planned to the last time I talked to them. I don't know if they ever followed through. On the Raptor barrel there is noting in front of the barrel, so there is nothing for lead to collect on (except if you add a comp).
  12. Nonsense. I've bought several guns for under $2k and had to do nothing but change out all the springs. In fact, I recommend buying good used first before buying new. That way you know what you want, etc. I bought two different Open gun and shot several others. After two years I knew exactly what I wanted and built it. I sold both guns for what I paid for them.
  13. Go with a Ghost sight, or better yet, a half Ghost.
  14. You have read here they both work well. So take your pick. If it were me, I'd take the MBX. Why? Because I have them in 40 and 9mm and have had no issues with them. I'll note that if you drop a nearly full 155 MBX mag, one out of ten drop a round will slip under the follower. That's why I also have STI Gen2 mags with TTI guts and pads. If my stage plan calls for 10 shots then a mag change, I use an STI loaded with 12 rounds. Then I'll go to a 155. It's never a good idea to drop a mag with 15-20 rounds still in it.
  15. The nice thing about a tricked out TS is you can get back most of what you spent on it when you sell. I did a grip reduction on mine. I deepened the beavertail, undercut the trigger guard and removed the coarse checkering front and back. Strips of grip tape are far superior. Then I had the frame Cerakoted in black. I also had Cajun Gun works do a race job on it. All the internals were replaced with high performance parts. Then I had the slide lightened and put new Lok grips on it. Added a Dawson FO front sight and the CGW 10X front bushing. I reprofiled the fixed rear to match the Dawson and rounded the ears so I could use it as a slide racker. It runs like a top and is smoother and slicker than any of my buddies TSOs. All told I have somewhere between $2300 and $2400 into the gun and mags. I was recently offered $2200 for it, but didn't sell. That doesn't make sense, because it just sits there. Some day someone will talk me out of it.
  • Create New...