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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About zzt

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    Back From the Dead
  • Birthday 10/25/1947

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    Berwyn, PA
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    Steve Thomer

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  1. You'll have to experiment for yourself to know for sure. I like both. It is certainly cheaper to load with a fast powder, especially since you are using so much AA7. Find yourself a pound of either e3 or Sport Pistol and give them a try. Do NOT use Clays. The comp is not going to do much flattening with the low powder charge, so take it off if you like. Less weight hanging off the front will certainly help with transitions. Right now I'm experimenting with 124s to see if I can find a light load that I can tune the PCC for and still have it work in the Open gun (either with or
  2. It really depends on how you want the gun to feel. Most Open SCSA shooters I know run loads in the 144 to 155 PF range. That is enough gas to work the comp without a lot of recoil. Another reason is they can get their major gun to run minor loads in that range. If you are willing to change recoil springs, there is no reason not to shoot fast powder mouse fart loads for steel challenge. You are not double tapping. Surprisingly, a small charge of fast powder will still work the comp to some extent. Recoil is mild and muzzle rise is minimal. I built a dedicated 1911
  3. Another trick is to put a thin strip of Aluminum foil, shiny side up, under the rod before you melt it. The foil reflects light and makes the dot brighter.
  4. Everything sold out like greased lightning. Fortunately I had stocked up on mag and recoils springs plus a few spare parts before the storm.
  5. I am using the lower from my Sig Tacops 1911 45. It has an ATI style cut in the receiver where the recoil rod head hits, so I had Chet modify the lower "lug" to fit. It also works perfectly on my 'normal' custom 1911 45 receiver.
  6. For the life of me I cannot understand cutting off so many coils. Why not just buy a 5 lb. variable?
  7. Here is a pic of my backup Open gun slide. I just finished building the gun and wanted to check it out to see if it needed tweaking before I start blending and polishing. I ran it wet, because it was the first time. So this is the debris I get from 50-60 rounds through for function testing and sighting in, plus 2 1/2 matches without cleaning or lube. You can still see oil in the recesses for the upper lugs. No cornmeal at all. Same with the barrel and frame. Just soot.
  8. I noticed the same thing with the higher speed Eley. Ely Target (SV) runs fine. As an experiment I increased the spring pressure from 8 to 9 spaces and it ran the high speed Eley fine. I'm currently running CCI SV in everything. I like only having to take one kind of ammo to the match. I love the TK doubles. SOOO much easier to remove, and much cheaper than the extensions I see many others using.
  9. I've found that if I grip tightly with the intention of reducing muzzle flip, the gun dips on return. If I use a regular grip and pay no attention to flip, the dot returns to the same spot with no dip. So don't try to force the gun down.
  10. I think it more likely your are applying too much pressure on the thumb rest and that is what is forcing it down. FWIW I run 10 lb. recoil springs in both my 2011 Open guns, and that is with 10.5 oz. slides and 9 and 8.5 oz. barrels. Slide to frame fit on both are tight, as in no play up, down or side-to-side.
  11. I suspect very few custom gunsmiths have that technology. And if they had to send it out to be done, they wouldn't know what they got until it was returned. I don't get the hang up. The quickest, safest and most desirable method is a new frame. 100% control.
  12. You cannot weld without applying extreme heat. That affects the hardness and temper of the steel. The labor involved would cost as much as a new frame. Since it was a new gun, why not start with a new frame. If the slide stop hole in the new frame is correct, there should be no barrel fitting required. At worst you would have to remove a thou or two from the bottom lugs, or use a shorter barrel link if the hole is off the other way.
  13. I shoot with two super senior Open shooters who have their dots mounted directly to the slide. They have shot that way for years without issue. I have a custom 1911 45 with the slide milled and the dot fixed directly to the slide. I've shot minor and major through it for years without a problem. That being said, all of my Open guns wear frame mounted dots. I shoot 115 JHP for major and I shoot a lot more of them in a year than I do 40 or 45. So I played it safe.
  14. I was trained the same way. After a while it dawned on me that the training was centered around LII and LII matches where there is a CRO and two ROs for each stage. It doesn't work that way in LI matches. Years ago a post Sarge made on the subject made sense to me. You watch the gun and trigger finger like a hawk when it counts, as in running, transitions, clearing jams, etc. When the shooter is stationary hosing down an array it is not so critical. So you do have time to glance at the timer to make sure it is picking up shots. I'm so used to it now it has become second nature. Some ti
  15. Try Weapon Shield CLP as your lube and their solvent as your cleaner. When I was shooting Open 40 using Silhouette I got lots of cornmeal. I had to run the gun wet because in the Winter I could only go two stages before I would have to relube. I looked at the tests for Weapon Shield and decided to try some, So I bought the kit. The solvent cleans very well and prepares the metal for the lube. Presto, almost no cornmeal and the gun would run through an entire match even at 30 degrees. I use it now for 9 major in both Open guns and it works like a charm. The CLP somehow sticks
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