Sarge

It must be hit or miss. I have a backup that I had not used in two years. Finally my main gun quit extracting this summer at a level II. I switched guns to finish the match but could have just put a new aftec cap and springs in and went right back to shooting. I had them in my parts kit.

I went from Production to Open simply because I wanted too. My eyes were fading and it was either $300 glasses or a $5k Open gun so I made the only rational choice and went Open. LOL What you have to remember is that it's a game and you should play with the toys you want. Thinking you will go faster by going to Open is misleading. Sure you'll shoot a little faster than you will with a CO gun but so does everybody else. Open is a full on race division and everybody goes faster. I usually suggest a simple test. Pick a classifier in CO and calculate a solid A run. Then do that for Open. You will see that you have to really shoot fast to do well on classifiers. I'm an A in Open and I don't think my percentage has moved more than a point or two in three years. But then again I don't practice until my hands bleed either. LOL But I was moving up really well in Production and all of that stopped when I went Open. But I wouldn't trade it for the world. It is the funnest division.

Appendix B2 USPSA popper USPSA mini popper

Seems like you have gotten some pretty good info here. I'll add that there is no way to know pf without testing. Some guns are nice and flat at 172 while others are flatter at 179. It just depends on your gun set up. With all of those holes I would first experiment with 121's or 124's. You'll probably settle on an 8# recoil spring but it's smart to test at least a 7 and a 9. Open gun load development can get pretty tedious because you are trying so many different things at first. Every load you make you should chrono first, then shoot with different spring weights, etc. Subtle differences are pretty hard to detect but you will definitely know when one load is significantly different from a "bad" load. I'm around if you ever want to hit the range and work on things.

Changing ANYTHING in a recipe requires me to go to the range with several different loads to shoot them. I shoot for groups from a rest, I run over chrono etc. When you say flyers, there is no way to know if its just a really bad group or if there are actually flyers. I hope that makes sense. I shot my first reloads for a year and things were great. Then I got some different bullets of the same weight and profile and all of a sudden had a lot more C's than usual. After a few months I finally went and shot groups and was lucky to put ten rounds on a paper plate at 25 yards or so. I was shocked to say the least. I went back to the drawing board and made several different loads, with different charges, lengths, etc until finally one load was back to grouping at 2-3 inches which is about as good as I can hold. If it were me I would load batches of different specs and go shoot them from a rest to see if that helps find the sweet spot. If you still have actual flyers I would check some bullet measurements and see if some are too small or otherwise out of spec. This may take awhile so maybe order some more of what you know has worked well before. This will give you time to do some testing.

There are plated bullets rated for higher velocities(1500fps) You just have to read the descriptions when ordering. If you are running them slow just check the fps rating. Here is one example from Xtreme plated. Legend HP = Hollow Point FP = Flat Point HPCB = Heavy Plate Concave Base RN = Round Nose RNFP = Round Nose Flat Point SWC = Semi Wad Cutter WC = Wad Cutter All Hollow Points are Heavy Plate Concave Base but are not designed to be used as a defense round. Load Info Our Copper Plated Bullets can be run at mid-range jacketed velocities or higher end lead velocities. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp Any velocities over 1200 FPS we recommend either our Heavy Plate Concave Base or Hollow Point products for superior accuracy. We recommend keeping velocities to less than 1500 FPS (Feet Per Second) and using only a light taper crimp All of our Hard Cast Lead Bullets are approximately 18 on Brinell, our Cowboy lead bullets are approximately 15 on Brinell.

Aside from payment issues also remember you can get absolutely hosed on gun deals by ending up with a piece of junk. Even on a (trusted) site like here on Enos. A friend of mine bought an open gun from a forum member that,”had been gone over by XXX gunsmith and runs perfect.” First time out parts started breaking and just wont run. Took it to a REAL gunsmith and it needs $1500 to make it right. Buyer asked seller what’s up and was told the gun was sold “as is” so it’s not his problem. Buyer beware no matter where you buy used stuff online.

It seems some of the more rational conclusions center around case wall thickness. Bullets require more or less force and hence oal can vary. When I tried to figure it out I came to the same conclusion that depth should not be affected at all by length of case so it had to be some other parameter.

Lol you should have taken $150 from Cabelas!

Raise you $5

Sounds like the sight was tight enough without loctite? Fire should have killed the red. When I used to swap out Glock sights I always just payed the slide on the garage floor on a towel and pounded them out and back in with Delrin punches.

Ah. Yeah I was thinking pistol only. Makes sense.

Same here. I gave up caring how or why. BUT headstamp definitely affects oal.

Wow. We have brass buzzards waiting for us to leave LOL