MuayThaiJJ

Slow with a 10# var RS, much better with a 14# var RS

AMT Hardballer Longslide Armscor 1911-A1 45acpAMT Hardballer longslide on a new Armscor GI frameSportsman's Warehouse has 2021 productions of GI Mil-Spec 1911s, and I came across a AMT longslide upper. So this is my build... 3.5# trigger, 17# MS, 8# var RS Armor Black cerakote (Sagisi Customs) Dawson Ice magwell Fusion Flat K-Hole red trigger Cammer Hammer ignition system Nitro fin 2.0 Wilson Extended Magazine Release Wilson extended competition thumb safety Wilson checkered front strap Valkyrie skeleton grips Countoured GI grip safety

What about this? Tap for threads, install allen-head plug screws that won't disrupt the rifling, then loctite.

Hey guys, wondering if there was a good way to block ports? My Schuemann barrel has 5 ports on the island and it eats up way too much heat from my loads. Would love to block 2 of the ports. Any tips or experience doing this? thanks N

STI SPS Limcat Fusion Apeiro Dual Longslide Sightblock 2011 Upper built by Jim Jones J&L Gunsmithing: https://www.jandlgunsmithing.com/ ‪(757) 567-5993‬ 3# trigger, 17# MS, 8# RS 7" sightblock slide Nitro fin 2.0 Sprinco Recoil System Wilson Combat extended single-sided thumb safety Wilson Combat extended ejector Cammer Hammer STI trigger Limcat sear/disconnect Limcat 4-lead sear spring Limcat steel gripAtlas magwell

I have a 2011 wilson nowlin ramped frame, I notice that when the slide is in battery that the bottom barrel lug doesn't sit fully on the ramped part of the frame, there is about 0.15" of space. Then when the slide goes back to cycle and load a round the barrel moves back and the bottom lug makes contact/locks onto the ramped part of the frame bringing alignment to the ramp and frame. Is this normal? I just never noticed it before. I assumed the barrel was always in contact with the frame fully. thanks

I tried Vicious skate tape for the first time a few weeks ago, wow...def the most aggressive. I have a Limcat with aggressive checkering under the trigger guard, it's great

And the OD of the Hi Power springs are smaller than CZ, so they hug onto guide rods

I've read they exist but are they still made? I haven't been able to locate any. The closest I can get it from Wolff's Hi Power variable springs... thanks! N

If anyone wants one contact Mike at https://eaglemike.com/ He's also a member on Enos: https://forums.brianenos.com/profile/71451-eaglemike/ Post your results here! I'll do the same. thanks! N

Thought I'd report on my findings with CCI MiniMag. First, I reprofiled the firing pin on the S2 Kadet so it hits the face of the primer more and not the rim. This is from suggestions on czfirearms. Next, I clipped 1.5 coils from the stock firing pin spring. I want to test again with the CZC reduced FP spring. Last, I tried 13, 14, 15, and 16# Hammer Springs. All failed to ignite 100% on CCI MiniMag. I would say it ranges from 50-75% going from 13-16#. I am running this on a CZ 75 with FPB removed, short reset, disconnect and race hammer. I will try 17# hammer spring next...if that fails to light MiniMags 100% I might try factory 20# and then clips some coils to get it down to 18# area...

FYI - these are being made by a machinist in Southern CA, not me. I'll pass on his info in this thread if you want to grab one, contact him directly.

PM me I do have some parts in my drawer you might want

CZ makes some nice competition pistols, but for some reason they go cheap on small but important parts. They decided to make the plug with polymer, and it gets chewed up and warped from heat and impact. Their new SP-01/Shadow 2 Kadet is also like this, mostly aluminum and polymer...

Fellow TS owners, I do not like the polymer recoil spring sleeve and the replacements sold on CZC and CZ-USA have been out of stock for a while. I am working with someone in designing a metal one, in aluminum or stainless steel. Will report back soon!