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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About terrapin

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  1. Those look like fine numbers... and you can still type so I’m guessing you still have ten fingers. Win win You’ll generally find that people lean towards 147 grain bullets for competition. It’s claimed they shoot softer. I’ve been shooting 124s and 125s because they are currently more available. (Plus, physics still says a lighter bullet will have less recoil, but perception says otherwise). I don’t have numbers for titegroup and 115s, but I shoot 125s with 4.1 grains... you might have more room if you want some cushion. I always confirm that the load has enough snort to lock back the slide on an empty mag. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Exactly, reviewing my notes I use Xtreme 125gr coated flat point bullets (1.090”), Nosler 125 grain JHP (approximately 1.080”), and 125 grain polymer coated FP (1.055”). To be 100% honest, I don’t spend much time thinking about it. I find my plunk depth, add about .010”, then make sure I’m about in the middle of the charge range. Then I burn a magazine worth over the chronograph and also confirm the group is less than 2 inches at 20 yards. It would be different if I was shooting bullseye, or trying to make 9mm Major. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I’m all three, and I make plenty of huge mistakes... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Longest OAL on my CZ’s is 1.080 shortest is 1.050”. At the shortest length, using the same mild load I started to see substantially further ejection distance and a minor amount of pressure distortion on the primer. Not enough for concern, merely noteworthy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. I wonder if this has caused some of the issues with certain sights. I have friends that work in engineering at Leupold. I will ask them what their testing has shown. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. No kidding? Just a smooth bottom with two screws holding it down? Awfully bold of Sig to rely 100% on friction to keep zero on their factory mounts. I’ll have to take a look at one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. It will be necessary to determine what max COAL is for both of your guns with each bullet. I start with a charge weight well below max, and set my seater die up for book max coal or longer. Load one round and drop it in the chamber of you disassembled pistol. It should drop in and make a Plunk (hence the name Plunk Test). Then drop out freely when you turn the barrel upside down. I keep dropping my OAL until I pass the plunk test, then go in .010” for tolerance. This should be a good starting load. Well below max, and a coal that is .010” off the lands. I load up enough to function test the pistol and determine velocity. I then start increasing the powder to get the velocity I want. Please note that there is a substantial increase in pressure as the COAL gets shorter. That’s why I start fairly low on the first load, besides I try to get the softest load that will cycle and make power factor. Since you are new I would start with an easy powder... you want one that has a wide band between min and max, and nearly fills the entire case. CFE-Pistol has those characteristics and I use it for many loads. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. I haven’t taken apart a c-more, but examining the DPP, it appears that the base of the sight is isolated from the body of the sight. If I had to guess, this prevents the electronics from being rigidly coupled to the slide. This prompted me to allow about .010” of clearance front and back, and rely on the four posts to locate the sight. I left a small radius at the bottom of the posts to provide a zero tolerance fit with the pockets on the sight base. I’ll let you know in 10k rounds how it holds up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. I prefer amber for all my shooting Idaho. I tried a pair of light purple and my kids told me the glasses made me look like a seventies porn star... so that’s what I wear now. How the heck do teenagers know what 70’s porn stars look like? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. MSC, McMaster Carr, Penn Tool, Grainger.... there are more. The counterfeit Mitutoyo Digimatics are so good, I had difficulty telling them from the real thing visually, but I could certainly feel the difference. I have used the same two pairs of Digimatics dozens (maybe hundreds) of times per day for 20 years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. I haven’t been dissatisfied with CFE-Pistol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. I think using Vectan AS was a short lived experiment. It is a very large flake powder. As such, it has a tendency to float out of the shells on every rotation, and even out of the top of the powder measure. Not a big deal, but the show stopper is that it is large enough that it occasionally bridges in the powder measure and gives about a 50% charge weight. I loaded about 300 shells, and caught about 6 that were visually light. I guess I’ll go back the CFE-Pistol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I load for 9mm, 10mm, 300 BO, and 223 on a Hornady LnL. Cost wasn’t the deciding factor... I like to be able to buy parts and pieces locally, it’s simple, and I prefer to use die sets that I already have. And lastly, change over is less than 10 minutes for most of the transitions. They are pretty cheap on sale, so I’m thinking about getting another one and leaving it setup for rifles and the other setup for pistols. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Shooting clays, I bet I’m one failure out of 10k rounds. On my 3gun Stoeger A3500, I get failures fairly frequently... but I feed it crappy reloads for practice (old hulls, 1oz reclaimed shot). I shot 75 rounds today, got a failure to feed. Shot some clp in it and it cured itself. I’ll run a couple hundred more next week and see how it does. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Thank you. I have enough AS for 19,200 max loads... I got a little carried away ordering shotgun powder. I also have 11 pounds of A24. Great powders, and cheap. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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