anonymouscuban Posted April 21, 2019 Share Posted April 21, 2019 Just to close things out ... S2 is now perfect! All done and all good! Talked to CGW via email and they gave me some tips. Trigger bar spring and further work on the disco. I have the blue spring in now and will shoot it that way first. Once I decide on ammo, I will swap in the black spring and see what I get. Will run an 11# recoils spring. Once I got the disco final fit, I took it out one more time and glass beaded the transitions and surfaces (lightly) and am getting a really smooth DA pull. SA is crisp. Reset is excellent. Polished all surfaces as instructed (on all components). Feels great. Functions perfectly. Waiting for my buddy to mill the slide for the optic. Will post pics when complete.Good to hear you got it worked out. No worse feeling than thinking you took a perfectly working firearm and made it inoperable by tinkering with it to make it "better". I think most of us have been through it. Fortunately, its usually something simple that needs tweaking.Looking forward to hearing your first range report with it.Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soaringindian Posted May 19, 2019 Share Posted May 19, 2019 Just installed the CGW kit on a Shadow 2. Manually ratching the slide sa action works great. But at the range after a round is fired the reset does not fully engage. Hammer is back and minor bump of the hammer will allow it to reset. DA works great on the bench and live firing. Based on other guidance on this blog I believe I need to remove a few thousands from the wedge. Before removing material I was hoping the great knowledge here could validate. thanks ahead of time for any advice you may give. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fo0 Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 42 minutes ago, Soaringindian said: Just installed the CGW kit on a Shadow 2. Manually ratching the slide sa action works great. But at the range after a round is fired the reset does not fully engage. Hammer is back and minor bump of the hammer will allow it to reset. DA works great on the bench and live firing. Based on other guidance on this blog I believe I need to remove a few thousands from the wedge. Before removing material I was hoping the great knowledge here could validate. thanks ahead of time for any advice you may give. Cheers. does it reset if you pull the trigger and hold the trigger back while racking the slide and then release the trigger - just wondering for myself also - if by wedge you are talking about the wing on the disconnector - that is for the DA. The hook is for SA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soaringindian Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 13 hours ago, Fo0 said: does it reset if you pull the trigger and hold the trigger back while racking the slide and then release the trigger - just wondering for myself also - if by wedge you are talking about the wing on the disconnector - that is for the DA. The hook is for SA Holding trigger while manually racking the slide the trigger does not reset. Good catch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPrimo Posted May 28, 2019 Share Posted May 28, 2019 On 4/21/2019 at 11:58 AM, anonymouscuban said: Good to hear you got it worked out. No worse feeling than thinking you took a perfectly working firearm and made it inoperable by tinkering with it to make it "better". I think most of us have been through it. Fortunately, its usually something simple that needs tweaking. Looking forward to hearing your first range report with it. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk First range session was an eye opener. I generally shoot a 2011 and love it. This was my first CZ. All the work on it paid off. Gun shoots amazingly well. I do need to get used to the DA/SA deal for first shot but from an ergo/accuracy/reliability standpoint, I could not be happier! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rchaas Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 This is an awesome thread, studied it carefully. However, I'm still not 100% clear on which surface of the disconnector from which material is to be removed for double action reset issues. In the pic below, the arrow points to the back of both the wing and the long leg of the disco, is that the area for material to be removed, or is it the "bottom" surface of the wing (I think it's been referred to as the "hook") which is facing us in the picture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rchaas Posted July 2, 2019 Share Posted July 2, 2019 Or just the back of the wing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fo0 Posted July 3, 2019 Share Posted July 3, 2019 You shouldn't need to take any off the top of the disconnector although one post said he did because he had fitting issue with the sear cage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted July 4, 2019 Author Share Posted July 4, 2019 It's referring to the face highlighted in red below: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted July 26, 2019 Share Posted July 26, 2019 On 7/3/2019 at 9:32 PM, kneelingatlas said: It's referring to the face highlighted in red below And go slowly. A little goes a long way when it comes to fitting a disconnector. I prefer to paint the face with a sharpie, then remove material until it’s all silver, test, and repeat. This process helps in keeping the surface flat and square. Then paint it again when you test-fit and things are close to working so that you can see where the internals are actually making contact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suburban Commando Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 Is there any rule of thumb for sear engagement for a single-action-only CZ-75? The CZ-75 SA trigger is okay, but a bit creepy. For a 1911, I would square and stone the hammer hooks to 0.020", but I'm sure that CZ-75 geometry is different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdf3 Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 I don't know how to find it, what's the minimum reset (working) that a CZ (Shadow2 and Shadow1) can have? Like 1mm (about 0.04"), 2mm, etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George16 Posted July 31, 2019 Share Posted July 31, 2019 2 hours ago, xdf3 said: I don't know how to find it, what's the minimum reset (working) that a CZ (Shadow2 and Shadow1) can have? Like 1mm (about 0.04"), 2mm, etc... It depends on what you like and the disco you will install. Cesar shop in Europe sells a disconector allowing 0mm reset. They also have 2mm disco available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdf3 Posted August 1, 2019 Share Posted August 1, 2019 19 hours ago, George16 said: It depends on what you like and the disco you will install. Cesar shop in Europe sells a disconector allowing 0mm reset. They also have 2mm disco available. I like the minimum reset possible. I bought what is sold as 0.0 disconnector but it's about 2mm in reality. Will CGW disconnector + trigger kit be enough to have that 0mm reset and as little pretravel as possible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawaiifivebro Posted August 2, 2019 Share Posted August 2, 2019 (edited) Trying to remove material on the CGW disconnector for my shadow 2 and having some issues making up my mind, what do you all use to take that material down? I've got a dremel and cut off wheels and cylindrical carbide bits but I quite honestly have no idea how I'd keep the shape/surface anywhere near decent with the cut off wheel, and on top of that I don't have anything to measure how much I'm taking off each time. Anyone in here take these down with sand paper and how badly do I need to see exactly how much is coming off. I've taken very few light passes with the carbide bits and reinstalled and quite honestly I have no idea if it even took anything off as nothing has seemingly changed in 3 times I've gone over it. Since I don't have anything to measure with and I'm using a dremel I've been going very light on the material, last thing I want to do is have to order another and restart. Edited August 2, 2019 by hawaiifivebro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted August 3, 2019 Author Share Posted August 3, 2019 I use a file to fit a disco if you clamp it on a vice you can see how much closer the surface gets to the jaws as you file. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amerflyer48 Posted August 29, 2019 Share Posted August 29, 2019 Thanks for sharing this, I may be adding a CZ75 SP01 to the safe soon and this could come in handy in combination with or pre-cajunizing if I decide to lay up the G34 in Production and then the eventual move to CO ( 48 year old eyes will decide that I guess) This is one of the many reasons I love both the sport and this forum,the willingness to share and or pay forward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demp223 Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 Just picked up a shadow 2 recently. Thanks for this post and huge thanks to Cajun. Did their upgrade trigger kit with reach reduction plus all the polishing of parts. Stock trigger 8lb3oz DA. 3lb6oz SA pull. CGW RRK full kit-11.5 hammer. 5lb8oz SA. 1lb 6oz SA. reset is short and crisp. Wow. Just wow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burger_King_Taco Posted September 13, 2019 Share Posted September 13, 2019 I fit a CZ UB 0.0 disconnecter in a Phantom, it resets in DA but in SA if the gun is tilted on its side it will not release the hammer. I'm guessing I'll need to take a bit more off the SA hook of the disconnecter. Has anyone seen this problem before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdf3 Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 What's the best way to have the least reset possible? Is a stock disconnector good enough to start with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoRivera Posted September 17, 2019 Share Posted September 17, 2019 (edited) 13 hours ago, xdf3 said: What's the best way to have the least reset possible? Is a stock disconnector good enough to start with? For a DA/SA, for starters a model without the firing pin block plunger is a good start, like an 85C or Shadow variant. From there, it is the disconnector that sets the reset. In particular, the inside edge of the leg/hook..... You can get an oversized unit from Cajun (the T3 disconnector) and have that edge fitted to as little reset as desired, and also this unit... https://czcustom.com/cz-75-pre-b-disconnector-shorter-reset-drop-in.html ....out of the package has a very short reset as well. Combine that with a trigger that has an over travel adjustment screw, and you should be able to get a rest that's pretty darn short. Also helps if you have a hammer with short engagement 'hooks', as opposed to the stock 75/SP01 which has more of a 'rolling' break. Also other ways to make that break even shorter. Edited September 17, 2019 by MoRivera Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leozinho Posted September 20, 2019 Share Posted September 20, 2019 Apologies if this has been covered - i can pick up a P09 pretty cheap. I want to keep it basic and budget. With a just a $88 CGW hammer and a competition spring set and basic polishing, what type of trigger pull weights can I expect in DA and SA? I don’t want to go for the full CGW kit, at least at first. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joedirt199 Posted September 20, 2019 Share Posted September 20, 2019 Might as well just go full kit. I have done the same to all my p series and if you do it by parts you will eventually get all the ones in the kit plus pay more for shipping. I switched back to the stock trigger return spring because the lightened one seemed slow to reset and sometimes I didn't let the trigger fully return to reset when shooting fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anonymouscuban Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 Ok fellas. Need some help. I installed the RRK on an SP-01 manual safety. Stock sear. Works fine in double action but it won't reset in single acrion. I just realized I didn't install the short reset lifter arm in the sear. The one that comes with the short reset kit. Would that cause this issue? Mind you, I don't have either set screw in the trigger yet so its not that the screws are not adjusted. Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertTortoise Posted September 21, 2019 Share Posted September 21, 2019 Apologies if this has been covered - i can pick up a P09 pretty cheap. I want to keep it basic and budget. With a just a $88 CGW hammer and a competition spring set and basic polishing, what type of trigger pull weights can I expect in DA and SA? I don’t want to go for the full CGW kit, at least at first. Thanks. Can't really answer your question exactly, but I was trying to do the same thing in another way.I did the short reset kit and springs. 8.5lb DA (self defense weight hammer spring) 3.5lb SA (++sear spring)I added the hammer later and it made the single action crisper. Not as nice as standard CZ75 (non Omega), but not bad. For me, the hammer just made the trigger feel less mushy, didn't change the weight really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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