paltrypoultry Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 Thanks for this great thread. I have two SP-01s. I sent one to CGW a couple years, who installed their pro package, and it came back really nice, and has only gotten nicer as it wore in. The other SP-01, I installed the pro package myself. It's much nicer than stock but not as nice as the gun that CGW did the work on. The most noticeable difference is that the gun I did has a more noticeable creep / rolling break in SA. The gun CGW did also has a nearly-imperceptible bit of creep (you have to go really slow and focus on it to notice). It's not terrible in the gun I did, but definitely much easier to feel than on the CGW-worked one. Any tips for what to focus on to try to get the one I did closer to the one CGW did? I had the thought to start swapping assemblies (hammer + disco / sear cage / trigger bar + trigger) around between the two guns to try to narrow it down, but I also wouldn't mind knowing what to look for. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friedrich_der_Grosse Posted August 5, 2022 Share Posted August 5, 2022 Thank you Professor Atlas! Though if you're reading this all these years later, I do have one question. What do I use to polish the sides of the CZ Competition hammer? I've noticed the hammer sort of feels a bit tighter for some reason than my CZ OEM hammer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted August 9, 2022 Author Share Posted August 9, 2022 On 8/4/2022 at 7:45 PM, Friedrich_der_Grosse said: Thank you Professor Atlas! Though if you're reading this all these years later, I do have one question. What do I use to polish the sides of the CZ Competition hammer? I've noticed the hammer sort of feels a bit tighter for some reason than my CZ OEM hammer. I suggest sand paper on something flat like a pane of glass. Start with 1000 grit and progress to 2000-2500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friedrich_der_Grosse Posted August 9, 2022 Share Posted August 9, 2022 1 hour ago, kneelingatlas said: I suggest sand paper on something flat like a pane of glass. Start with 1000 grit and progress to 2000-2500 You actually responded to my reply YEARS after your original post was even created... You my sir are seriously a legend, thank you so much for the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGC Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 Recently acquired a NOS SP01 Shadow. I installed the full CGW kit, and all went well accept for the trigger reset. The mechanics of the reset are fine, and all works as it should but I have to nudge the trigger forward as it seems the trigger return spring is not pulling the bar? Spring looks fine, disco looks to be allowing DA engagement etc…just seems like the trigger is dragging on reset. The trigger bar spring is not bent and the screw is fully seated…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGC Posted August 22, 2022 Share Posted August 22, 2022 39 minutes ago, RGC said: Recently acquired a NOS SP01 Shadow. I installed the full CGW kit, and all went well accept for the trigger reset. The mechanics of the reset are fine, and all works as it should but I have to nudge the trigger forward as it seems the trigger return spring is not pulling the bar? Spring looks fine, disco looks to be allowing DA engagement etc…just seems like the trigger is dragging on reset. The trigger bar spring is not bent and the screw is fully seated…. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 Spring in the right spot? It's easy for the leg to slip into the wrong spot. As well, if you have a pretravel screw in it, you may need to shorten it, as it can bind on the spring leg and cause that very issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGC Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 7 hours ago, slavex said: Spring in the right spot? It's easy for the leg to slip into the wrong spot. As well, if you have a pretravel screw in it, you may need to shorten it, as it can bind on the spring leg and cause that very issue Both are good. Like the bar is dragging on the frame sort of feel. Strange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slavex Posted August 29, 2022 Share Posted August 29, 2022 On 8/25/2022 at 5:18 AM, RGC said: Both are good. Like the bar is dragging on the frame sort of feel. Strange. try removing the pretravel screw, if you have one. that dragging feel is what happens when it's screwed in too far and the spring gets impinged. I had to shorten all my screws so they wouldn't hit the spring and cause a near dead trigger after the first shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGC Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 Screw was already removed. No change. I blue liquided all my screws once set anyway. Well, I changed the trigger bar spring, the reduced trigger spring, polished the bar and the frame....seems to have done the trick (well, one of them did). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mule169 Posted September 26, 2022 Share Posted September 26, 2022 +1 for this thread, I've always been a little bitch about doing my own gunsmithing work but this really helped me do some minor changes to my Shadow 2, hopefully I get more confident in my abilities, everything was broken down very seamlessly with the pictures. Kudos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyB Posted October 14, 2022 Share Posted October 14, 2022 (edited) I've tried to dig through this thread a bit, but haven't really found a definitive answer to the issue I'm having. I installed CGW's reach reduction kit with floating trigger pin and reduced power trigger spring. Didn't really have any issues changing the parts. With the slide off, the weapon functions properly in DA and SA mode. I can cock the hammer with the trigger and it falls(I am not letting it fall completely as to avoid damage) and if I cock the hammer the trigger will also drop it in SA mode. When I install the slide, nothing works. Trigger stays rearward and hammer won't fall. Suggestions on what to look for? ETA - got it guys. Inside leg of disconnector needs some clearancing. Edited October 14, 2022 by DirtyB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose97 Posted November 5, 2022 Share Posted November 5, 2022 Are there any videos on adjusting the pre travel & over travel screws in a TSO? I purchased a used TSO & had it refinished. Seems there's more pre travel than before I sent it in. The only videos I've seen are for the standard 75 series. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ItsKirby Posted December 24, 2022 Share Posted December 24, 2022 Awesome info! I am new to CZ platform. I just got my sp01 and also purchased the S2. Going to start modding it soon. thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AcePrater Posted January 8, 2023 Share Posted January 8, 2023 Prof Atlas - mad props and golf claps all around... I've been working on my 97 recently and just posted this detailed video. I am by no means a professional but I wanted to get something on Rumble JIChttps://rumble.com/v215uug-cz-97b-build-phase-2-sao-conversion.html In relation to CZ tuning I have a question about fitting a sear to a safety. On the 97^^^ I fitted the sear to the safety as opposed to using the adjustable CGW sear. I feel like if done right this method provides much more contact area. I think next time I will work this option as well. Also I noted that the face of the safety was not quite level so I will start with that next time. Also another question is because the safety nub is a curved contact area, is there a preferred method to undercut/file the sear on a concave face to match the safety nub? As opposed to filing the underside of the sear flat? Hope that makes sense. In any case glad to see more recent notes here. have a great 2023. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lock-n-load Posted February 12, 2023 Share Posted February 12, 2023 (edited) Great help on upgrading your cz . Good job sir! Edited February 12, 2023 by Lock-n-load Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Douglascim Posted March 1, 2023 Share Posted March 1, 2023 Really enjoyed the mod. I’ve had my 97bd for 5 years and am looking forward to investing in some mods while the parts are still available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColoradoNick Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 On 8/29/2022 at 6:10 PM, RGC said: Screw was already removed. No change. I blue liquided all my screws once set anyway. Well, I changed the trigger bar spring, the reduced trigger spring, polished the bar and the frame....seems to have done the trick (well, one of them did). I had the same issue and it was the CGW reduced trigger spring. It was too soft. Replaced it with another brand from shooters connection and it works perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeepFried Posted September 6, 2023 Share Posted September 6, 2023 Did some polishing on a stock S2 that has 1k rounds through it. Wanted to see if there would be a change in either pull weight with only polishing. Didn’t get too carried away with it, mainly focus on disco and trigger bar for DA pull. well it did change the pull weight..it increased by nearly a lb! From 9lb14oz to 10lb10oz. Don’t think it’s in my method of measuring, same gauge trying to maintain same angle pulling. But it’s got more friction somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HarperCZ Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 On 8/22/2022 at 1:52 PM, RGC said: Recently acquired a NOS SP01 Shadow. I installed the full CGW kit, and all went well accept for the trigger reset. The mechanics of the reset are fine, and all works as it should but I have to nudge the trigger forward as it seems the trigger return spring is not pulling the bar? Spring looks fine, disco looks to be allowing DA engagement etc…just seems like the trigger is dragging on reset. The trigger bar spring is not bent and the screw is fully seated…. I realize this is late but I had the same exact issue after installing a CGW kit and it was due to the trigger bar spring being out of adjustment. It dragged on the trigger and I had to push it forward with my finger. Look at the picture on the tutorials on CGW website for guidance on adjusting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGC Posted December 29, 2023 Share Posted December 29, 2023 12 hours ago, HarperCZ said: I realize this is late but I had the same exact issue after installing a CGW kit and it was due to the trigger bar spring being out of adjustment. It dragged on the trigger and I had to push it forward with my finger. Look at the picture on the tutorials on CGW website for guidance on adjusting it. Thank goodness someone posted! It’s been sitting on the bench inoperable now for almost 2 years!! JK. Yes that was one of the issues. I got it up and running the next day. Still feel the SP01 size easier to wield in CO than the S2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haywizzle Posted January 4 Share Posted January 4 I just want to thank @kneelingatlas for this post almost 10 years later. When you first made this post I had one CZ, a SP-01. I printed out your guide, hole punched it and put it in a binder, with schematics, that I followed on my first time detail stripping my CZ for upgrades. It all started during my first year competing outside of my local indoor range. I was squadded with a random shooter at a steel match in NJ who also had a CZ. I wish I could remember his name, but he asked if I had done any upgrades to my CZ. I had no idea what he was talking about but he let me dry fire his CZ and my eyes opened to the possibilities. He told me check out your guide here and buy some new parts from CGW and/or CZC. He said the spring kit and a polish makes a huge difference but I had to go all in with the Cajun pro kit. Since then, I've worked on a few shadows, S2, 75B, 97B and even lived through working on my decocker models: Phantom, Rami BD, PCR and P-01. I can't shoot any other production guns now and I've become a hammer snob only accepting 1911 and 2011s. So thank you for helping me see the light! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ES13Raven Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 @kneelingatlas or anyone else: How would you polish to achieve a buttery smooth slide? Dremel? If so, which attachments? Sandpaper? If so, which levels of coarseness? Any other methods? Any places to polish besides: top of the frame, bottom of the slide and the rail groove? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 I've never polished slide rails to make them run smoother, although I have used diamond lapping compound to fit oversized slides function. Forget the stuff in the gun catalog, it's way too course, I used this kit off Amazon. It takes forever, but you won't have to worry about overdoing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael1one Posted Saturday at 03:29 AM Share Posted Saturday at 03:29 AM Amazing guide. Just one in the many contributions from Professor Atlas (a well deserved title.) It looks like there is an art to this as well. Since I am not that mechanically inclined, is there anyone in Northern California that does a good trigger job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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