Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

kneelingatlas

Recommended Posts

Thanks for this great thread.

 

I have two SP-01s.  I sent one to CGW a couple years, who installed their pro package, and it came back really nice, and has only gotten nicer as it wore in.  The other SP-01, I installed the pro package myself.  It's much nicer than stock but not as nice as the gun that CGW did the work on.

 

The most noticeable difference is that the gun I did has a more noticeable creep / rolling break in SA.  The gun CGW did also has a nearly-imperceptible bit of creep (you have to go really slow and focus on it to notice).  It's not terrible in the gun I did, but definitely much easier to feel than on the CGW-worked one.

 

Any tips for what to focus on to try to get the one I did closer to the one CGW did?  I had the thought to start swapping assemblies (hammer + disco / sear cage / trigger bar + trigger) around between the two guns to try to narrow it down, but I also wouldn't mind knowing what to look for.

 

Thanks again!

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 weeks later...
  • Replies 749
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

On 8/4/2022 at 7:45 PM, Friedrich_der_Grosse said:

Thank you Professor Atlas! :D

Though if you're reading this all these years later, I do have one question. What do I use to polish the sides of the CZ Competition hammer? I've noticed the hammer sort of feels a bit tighter for some reason than my CZ OEM hammer. 

 

I suggest sand paper on something flat like a pane of glass. Start with 1000 grit and progress to 2000-2500

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Recently acquired a NOS SP01 Shadow.

I installed the full CGW kit, and all went well accept for the trigger reset.  The mechanics of the reset are fine, and all works as it should but I have to nudge the trigger forward as it seems the trigger return spring is not pulling the bar?  Spring looks fine, disco looks to be allowing DA engagement etc…just seems like the trigger is dragging on reset.  The trigger bar spring is not bent and the screw is fully seated….

Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, RGC said:

Recently acquired a NOS SP01 Shadow.

I installed the full CGW kit, and all went well accept for the trigger reset.  The mechanics of the reset are fine, and all works as it should but I have to nudge the trigger forward as it seems the trigger return spring is not pulling the bar?  Spring looks fine, disco looks to be allowing DA engagement etc…just seems like the trigger is dragging on reset.  The trigger bar spring is not bent and the screw is fully seated….

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spring in the right spot? It's easy for the leg to slip into the wrong spot. As well, if you have a pretravel screw in it, you may need to shorten it, as it can bind on the spring leg and cause that very issue

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, slavex said:

Spring in the right spot? It's easy for the leg to slip into the wrong spot. As well, if you have a pretravel screw in it, you may need to shorten it, as it can bind on the spring leg and cause that very issue

Both are good.  Like the bar is dragging on the frame sort of feel.  Strange.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 8/25/2022 at 5:18 AM, RGC said:

Both are good.  Like the bar is dragging on the frame sort of feel.  Strange.

try removing the pretravel screw, if you have one. that dragging feel is what happens when it's screwed in too far and the spring gets impinged. I had to shorten all my screws so they wouldn't hit the spring and cause a near dead trigger after the first shot. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Screw was already removed.  No change.  I blue liquided all my screws once set anyway.

Well, I changed the trigger bar spring, the reduced trigger spring, polished the bar and the frame....seems to have done the trick (well, one of them did).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

+1 for this thread, I've always been a little bitch about doing my own gunsmithing work but this really helped me do some minor changes to my Shadow 2, hopefully I get more confident in my abilities, everything was broken down very seamlessly with the pictures. Kudos.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I've tried to dig through this thread a bit, but haven't really found a definitive answer to the issue I'm having. 

 

I installed CGW's reach reduction kit with floating trigger pin and reduced power trigger spring.  Didn't really have any issues changing the parts.

 

With the slide off, the weapon functions properly in DA and SA mode.  I can cock the hammer with the trigger and it falls(I am not letting it fall completely as to avoid damage) and if I cock the hammer the trigger will also drop it in SA mode. 

 

When I install the slide, nothing works. Trigger stays rearward and hammer won't fall.  Suggestions on what to look for? 

 

ETA - got it guys.  Inside leg of disconnector needs some clearancing.  

 



 

Edited by DirtyB
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Are there any videos on adjusting the pre travel & over travel screws in a TSO? I purchased a used TSO & had it refinished. Seems there's more pre travel than before I sent it in. The only videos I've seen are for the standard 75 series. Thanks 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Prof Atlas - mad props and golf claps all around...

I've been working on my 97 recently and just posted this detailed video. I am by no means a professional but I wanted to get something on Rumble JIC
https://rumble.com/v215uug-cz-97b-build-phase-2-sao-conversion.html

In relation to CZ tuning I have a question about fitting a sear to a safety. On the 97^^^ I fitted the sear to the safety as opposed to using the adjustable CGW sear. I feel like if done right this method provides much more contact area. I think next time I will work this option as well. Also I noted that the face of the safety was not quite level so I will start with that next time. Also another question is because the safety nub is a curved contact area, is there a preferred method to undercut/file the sear on a concave face to match the safety nub? As opposed to filing the underside of the sear flat?

Hope that makes sense. In any case glad to see more recent notes here. have a great 2023.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/29/2022 at 6:10 PM, RGC said:

Screw was already removed.  No change.  I blue liquided all my screws once set anyway.

Well, I changed the trigger bar spring, the reduced trigger spring, polished the bar and the frame....seems to have done the trick (well, one of them did).

I had the same issue and it was the CGW reduced trigger spring. It was too soft. Replaced it with another brand from shooters connection and it works perfectly. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Did some polishing on a stock S2 that has 1k rounds through it. Wanted to see if there would be a change in either pull weight with only polishing. Didn’t get too carried away with it, mainly focus on disco and trigger bar for DA pull. 
 

well it did change the pull weight..it increased by nearly a lb! From 9lb14oz to 10lb10oz. 
 

Don’t think it’s in my method of measuring, same gauge trying to maintain same angle pulling. But it’s got

more friction somewhere. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
On 8/22/2022 at 1:52 PM, RGC said:

Recently acquired a NOS SP01 Shadow.

I installed the full CGW kit, and all went well accept for the trigger reset.  The mechanics of the reset are fine, and all works as it should but I have to nudge the trigger forward as it seems the trigger return spring is not pulling the bar?  Spring looks fine, disco looks to be allowing DA engagement etc…just seems like the trigger is dragging on reset.  The trigger bar spring is not bent and the screw is fully seated….

I realize this is late but I had the same exact issue after installing a CGW kit and it was due to the trigger bar spring being out of adjustment. It dragged on the trigger and I had to push it forward with my finger. Look at the picture on the tutorials on CGW website for guidance on adjusting it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, HarperCZ said:

I realize this is late but I had the same exact issue after installing a CGW kit and it was due to the trigger bar spring being out of adjustment. It dragged on the trigger and I had to push it forward with my finger. Look at the picture on the tutorials on CGW website for guidance on adjusting it.

Thank goodness someone posted!  It’s been sitting on the bench inoperable now for almost 2 years!!

 

JK.  Yes that was one of the issues.  I got it up and running the next day.  Still feel the SP01 size easier to wield in CO than the S2.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just want to thank @kneelingatlas for this post almost 10 years later. When you first made this post I had one CZ, a SP-01. I printed out your guide, hole punched it and put it in a binder, with schematics, that I followed on my first time detail stripping my CZ for upgrades.

 

It all started during my first year competing outside of my local indoor range. I was squadded with a random shooter at a steel match in NJ who also had a CZ. I wish I could remember his name, but he asked if I had done any upgrades to my CZ. I had no idea what he was talking about but he let me dry fire his CZ and my eyes opened to the possibilities. He told me check out your guide here and buy some new parts from CGW and/or CZC. He said the spring kit and a polish makes a huge difference but I had to go all in with the Cajun pro kit.

 

Since then, I've worked on a few shadows, S2, 75B, 97B and even lived through working on my decocker models: Phantom, Rami BD, PCR and P-01. I can't shoot any other production guns now and I've become a hammer snob only accepting 1911 and 2011s. So thank you for helping me see the light!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

@kneelingatlas or anyone else:
How would you polish to achieve a buttery smooth slide?

Dremel?  If so, which attachments?
Sandpaper?  If so, which levels of coarseness?

Any other methods?
Any places to polish besides: top of the frame, bottom of the slide and the rail groove?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never polished slide rails to make them run smoother, although I have used diamond lapping compound to fit oversized slides function. Forget the stuff in the gun catalog, it's way too course, I used this kit off Amazon. It takes forever, but you won't have to worry about overdoing it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...