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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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    Jacksonville, Florida
  • Real Name
    Lito Lucas

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Burned Out (10/11)

  1. Yup. It’s a cone comp. I think he made the aluminum version.
  2. PM Kneelingatlas. Ask him if he can make one in 1/2” x 28. He made a 3-port compensator and sold them here before. I got one of his aluminum ones but it’s threaded M14 x 1. It weighs 1.4 oz and works better compared to the stock which weight 4.0 oz. Here’s a couple of pics:
  3. TXG Grip = 16.6 oz with magwell AXG Aluminum = 6.1 oz.
  4. Mark, that was a typo. It was supposed to be “the”. Thanks. I’m still using the original Dillon shell plate that came with the machine (.223) and the 9mm conversion kit I bought from DAA. The key is really keeping the machine clean and lubed. I use Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil (1/2 quart leftover from oil change of my 4Runner that takes 5.5 quarts) on the shaft and wheel bearing grease for the rest. I clean everything with simple green and then do a final wipe down with 90% alcohol to get rid of any moisture prior to lubing the parts.
  5. Yes it rotates afterwards but the initial position will always be the same since the mark on the base is a fixed mark. I inscribed the marks while the shell plate was still installed and prior to removing it from the machine. After cleaning, I just line up the marks again and then tighten up the big nut that holds the shell plate down and then tighten up the four screws. With the etch mark on the shell plate and the base, the shell plate is always installed on the same position it was originally installed prior to removal for cleaning.
  6. I’ve loaded over 30k rounds of 9mm ammo and process over 100k cases of .223 and my original spring is still working well. The key is to make sure you clean and lube the machine on a regular basis. I normally process a batch of about 5-6k cases of .223 and I always clean, inspect and lube the machine. I also etch/inscribe an alignment for hashmark on the shell plates and machine base so they get installed and tightenend the same way every time. It makes re-installation easier.
  7. Heh! That’s my choice of the Aloha spirit for a curtain . I think I had too much of a good time when I was stationed at Pearl Harbor back in the 90’s. Anyway, to answer your question. I still have to encounter any issues without the ratchet system. Besides, if I ever have an issue, I pull out all the cases, troubleshoot, fix the problem and start over again. I also have cameras looking over the cases for powder and another underneath to check for primer in the cases.
  8. I cut off the lower part of the ratchet mechanism and use it as a spacer. No need to be spending money buying a piece aluminum bar. It works perfect and it’s actually made for it . Here’s a pic:
  9. And that’s exactly what I did after receiving and setting up my RL1100. It works really good. I still have an extra ratchet with the extra tool head I bought if I decide to reinstall it in the future (I don’t think I will though ). Here’s a pic.
  10. The only way to find out for sure is for you to do a plunk and spin test with the rounds you’re planning to use.
  11. 4.0 Gr Sport Pistol with 124 Gr PD JHP @ 1.125” OAL.
  12. I had better luck using 0000 steel wool. I have plenty of it since it’s what I use to clean the frets on my guitars. If it’s effective yet delicate enough to clean the frets of a $4k guitar, it’s good enough for a $30 powder funnel .
  13. No problems lighting off all the primers I have used such as CCI, Winchester and Remington. I was even using small rifle primers at some point and everything worked.
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