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Just to close things out ... S2 is now perfect!
 
All done and all good!  Talked to CGW via email and they gave me some tips.  Trigger bar spring and further work on the disco.  I have the blue spring in now and will shoot it that way first.  Once I decide on ammo, I will swap in the black spring and see what I get.  Will run an 11# recoils spring.  Once I got the disco final fit, I took it out one more time and glass beaded the transitions and surfaces (lightly) and am getting a really smooth DA pull.  SA is crisp.  Reset is excellent.  Polished all surfaces as instructed (on all components).  Feels great. Functions perfectly.  Waiting for my buddy to mill the slide for the optic.  Will post pics when complete.
Good to hear you got it worked out. No worse feeling than thinking you took a perfectly working firearm and made it inoperable by tinkering with it to make it "better". I think most of us have been through it. Fortunately, its usually something simple that needs tweaking.

Looking forward to hearing your first range report with it.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

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Just installed the CGW kit on a Shadow 2.  Manually ratching the slide sa action works great. But at the range after a round is fired the reset does not fully engage.  Hammer is back and minor bump of the hammer will allow it to reset.  DA works great on the bench and live firing.

 

Based on other guidance on this blog I believe I need to remove a few thousands from the wedge.  Before removing material I was hoping the great knowledge here could validate.

 

thanks ahead of time for any advice you may give.  Cheers.

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42 minutes ago, Soaringindian said:

Just installed the CGW kit on a Shadow 2.  Manually ratching the slide sa action works great. But at the range after a round is fired the reset does not fully engage.  Hammer is back and minor bump of the hammer will allow it to reset.  DA works great on the bench and live firing.

 

Based on other guidance on this blog I believe I need to remove a few thousands from the wedge.  Before removing material I was hoping the great knowledge here could validate.

 

thanks ahead of time for any advice you may give.  Cheers.

 

does it reset if you pull the trigger and hold the trigger back while racking the slide and then release the trigger - just wondering for myself 

 

also - if by wedge you are talking about the wing on the disconnector - that is for the DA. The hook is for SA

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13 hours ago, Fo0 said:

 

does it reset if you pull the trigger and hold the trigger back while racking the slide and then release the trigger - just wondering for myself 

 

also - if by wedge you are talking about the wing on the disconnector - that is for the DA. The hook is for SA

Holding trigger while manually racking the slide the trigger does not reset. Good catch.

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On 4/21/2019 at 11:58 AM, anonymouscuban said:

Good to hear you got it worked out. No worse feeling than thinking you took a perfectly working firearm and made it inoperable by tinkering with it to make it "better". I think most of us have been through it. Fortunately, its usually something simple that needs tweaking.

Looking forward to hearing your first range report with it.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 

First range session was an eye opener.  I generally shoot a 2011 and love it.  This was my first CZ.  All the work on it paid off.  Gun shoots amazingly well.  I do need to get used to the DA/SA deal for first shot but from an ergo/accuracy/reliability standpoint, I could not be happier!

 

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This is an awesome thread, studied it carefully.  However, I'm still not 100% clear on which surface of the disconnector from which material is to be removed for double action reset issues.  

 

In the pic below, the arrow points to the back of both the wing and the long leg of the disco, is that the area for material to be removed, or is it the "bottom" surface of the wing (I think it's been referred to as the "hook") which is facing us in the picture?

 

9123b08978a0bbd18014d56e5399453b.jpg.9369faefb8bcfcc5305ac1073ab0f148.jpg

9123b08978a0bbd18014d56e5399453b.jpg.517c0c9e4d7771918b2be40db68e0dc3.jpg

 

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Or just the back of the wing?

 

9123b08978a0bbd18014d56e5399453b.jpg.9369faefb8bcfcc5305ac1073ab0f148.jpg.de7b982b59900e83433cfe8fc9e71b00.jpg

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You shouldn't need to take any off the top of the disconnector although one post said he did because he had fitting issue with the sear cage

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On 7/3/2019 at 9:32 PM, kneelingatlas said:

It's referring to the face highlighted in red below

 

And go slowly. A little goes a long way when it comes to fitting a disconnector.

 

I prefer to paint the face with a sharpie, then    remove material until it’s all silver, test, and repeat. This process helps in keeping the surface flat and square.

 

Then paint it again when you test-fit and things are close to working so that you can see where the internals are actually making contact.

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Is there any rule of thumb for sear engagement for a single-action-only CZ-75?  The CZ-75 SA trigger is okay, but a bit creepy.  For a 1911, I would square and stone the hammer hooks to 0.020", but I'm sure that CZ-75 geometry is different.

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I don't know how to find it, what's the minimum reset (working) that a CZ (Shadow2 and Shadow1) can have? Like 1mm (about 0.04"), 2mm, etc...

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2 hours ago, xdf3 said:

I don't know how to find it, what's the minimum reset (working) that a CZ (Shadow2 and Shadow1) can have? Like 1mm (about 0.04"), 2mm, etc...

It depends on what you like and the disco you will install. Cesar shop in Europe sells a disconector allowing 0mm reset. They also have 2mm disco available. 

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19 hours ago, George16 said:

It depends on what you like and the disco you will install. Cesar shop in Europe sells a disconector allowing 0mm reset. They also have 2mm disco available. 

I like the minimum reset possible. I bought what is sold as 0.0 disconnector but it's about 2mm in reality.

 

Will CGW disconnector + trigger kit be enough to have that 0mm reset and as little pretravel as possible? 

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Posted (edited)

Trying to remove material on the CGW disconnector for my shadow 2 and having some issues making up my mind, what do you all use to take that material down?  I've got a dremel and cut off wheels and cylindrical carbide bits but I quite honestly have no idea how I'd keep the shape/surface anywhere near decent with the cut off wheel, and on top of that I don't have anything to measure how much I'm taking off each time.  Anyone in here take these down with sand paper and how badly do I need to see exactly how much is coming off.  I've taken very few light passes with the carbide bits and reinstalled and quite honestly I have no idea if it even took anything off as nothing has seemingly changed in 3 times I've gone over it.  Since I don't have anything to measure with and I'm using a dremel I've been going very light on the material, last thing I want to do is have to order another and restart.

Edited by hawaiifivebro

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I use a file to fit a disco if you clamp it on a vice you can see how much closer the surface gets to the jaws as you file.

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Thanks for sharing this, I may be adding a CZ75 SP01 to the safe soon and this could come in handy in combination with or pre-cajunizing if I decide to lay up the G34 in Production and then the eventual move to CO ( 48 year old eyes will decide that I guess) 

 

This is one of the many reasons I love both the sport and this forum,the willingness to share and or pay forward.  

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Just picked up a shadow 2 recently. Thanks for this post and huge thanks to Cajun. Did their upgrade trigger kit with reach reduction plus all the polishing of parts. 

Stock trigger 8lb3oz DA. 3lb6oz SA 

pull. 

CGW RRK full kit-11.5 hammer. 

5lb8oz SA. 1lb 6oz SA.

reset is short and crisp. 

Wow. Just wow. 

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I fit a CZ UB 0.0 disconnecter in a Phantom, it resets in DA but in SA if the gun is tilted on its side it will not release the hammer. I'm guessing I'll need to take a bit more off the SA hook of the disconnecter. 

 

Has anyone seen this problem before?

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What's the best way to have the least reset possible? Is a stock disconnector good enough to start with? 

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13 hours ago, xdf3 said:

What's the best way to have the least reset possible? Is a stock disconnector good enough to start with? 

For a DA/SA, for starters a model without the firing pin block plunger is a good start, like an 85C or Shadow variant.  From there, it is the disconnector that sets the reset.  In particular, the inside edge of the leg/hook.....

 

ShortRest.jpg

 

You can get an oversized unit from Cajun (the T3 disconnector) and have that edge fitted to as little reset as desired, and also this unit...

 

https://czcustom.com/cz-75-pre-b-disconnector-shorter-reset-drop-in.html

 

....out of the package has a very short reset as well.  Combine that with a trigger that has an over travel adjustment screw, and you should be able to get a rest that's pretty darn short.  Also helps if you have a hammer with short engagement 'hooks', as opposed to the stock 75/SP01 which has more of a 'rolling' break.  Also other ways to make that break even shorter.

Edited by MoRivera

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Apologies if this has been covered - 

 

i can pick up a P09 pretty cheap. I want to keep it basic and budget. 

 

With a just a $88 CGW hammer and a competition spring set and basic polishing, what type of trigger pull weights can I expect in DA and SA?   I don’t want to go for the full CGW kit, at least at first. 

 

Thanks. 

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Might as well just go full kit. I have done the same to all my p series and if you do it by parts you will eventually get all the ones in the kit plus pay more for shipping. I switched back to the stock trigger return spring because the lightened one seemed slow to reset and sometimes I didn't let the trigger fully return to reset when shooting fast.

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Ok fellas. Need some help. I installed the RRK on an SP-01 manual safety. Stock sear. Works fine in double action but it won't reset in single acrion.

 

I just realized I didn't install the short reset lifter arm in the sear. The one that comes with the short reset kit. Would that cause this issue?

 

Mind you, I don't have either set screw in the trigger yet so its not that the screws are not adjusted.

 

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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Apologies if this has been covered - 
 
i can pick up a P09 pretty cheap. I want to keep it basic and budget. 
 
With a just a $88 CGW hammer and a competition spring set and basic polishing, what type of trigger pull weights can I expect in DA and SA?   I don’t want to go for the full CGW kit, at least at first. 
 
Thanks. 
Can't really answer your question exactly, but I was trying to do the same thing in another way.

I did the short reset kit and springs. 8.5lb DA (self defense weight hammer spring) 3.5lb SA (++sear spring)

I added the hammer later and it made the single action crisper. Not as nice as standard CZ75 (non Omega), but not bad. For me, the hammer just made the trigger feel less mushy, didn't change the weight really.

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