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Showing results for tags 'smoothing the action'.
There are quite a few resources out there for us shade tree gunsmiths to work on our CZs, most notably this epic thread (http://www.czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=42537.0) I have linked to many times by David Milam of Cajun Gun Works. While tuning up a brand new SP01, I decided to take a stab at a comprehensive beginner's guide to these great pistols; my hope is that this thread will spark discussion and collaboration so that collective knowledge of this forum can create something really useful for new CZ lovers. The tools: I prefer a heavy hammer because it will deliver high energy blows without swinging it too hard (less effort = more control); you can cut down on "idiot marks" and other collateral damage when you swing the hammer with less effort. Because the pins in my Brownells set are too short for some applications I use these basic punches as well: although it looks like Brownells is now selling longer pins: http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/punches/gunsmith-replaceable-pin-punch-set-prod545.aspx The replaceable pins are nice because punches do bend and they do break. You'll see I also use Quick Clamps with rubber boots which do a nice job of clamping the frame/slide down without marring the finish. By nature polishing metal is about removing metal, but the key is to remove very little amounts of metal at a time; I use a power sander with 1000-2000 grit sandpaper on flat parts and a felt wheel with automotive rubbing compound on those 'hard to reach' spots. As we become intimately familiar with our pistols, it's easy to become lax on safety, so I began by clearing the pistol. I tested the trigger pull for a baseline:
Results! I've wanted a p10F for some time, but what's stopped me from committing is that I've been spoiled by the trigger on my Shadow 2. I've never encountered a polymer striker fire trigger that I particularly loved. I once had a G34 that, once heavily modded, was pretty acceptable and mostly stayed out of my way, but I ended up letting the glock go very quickly, and haven't ventured back into plastic since. Enter the p10 series: I love my CZ's. I carry a p-01, and compete with a shadow 2, and besides the ergonomics, what I loved about the CZ's is how much I could tinker with them. Obviously not as far as the glock and 1911's I'd built, but there was enough aftermarket support that I thought I might be able to get the trigger where I wanted it. When looking at p10 trigger upgrades, I found 3 very interesting options for lightenting and smoothing it out: HBI: they accomplish a lighter pull with lighter springs and a new shoe Overwatch precision: they accomplish a lighter pull with a new striker with an NP3 coating and new geometry Apex Tactical: they accomplish a lighter pull with a new disconnector and backplate (as well as a difficult to find lighter disco spring). What I noticed was that all three options were not mutually exclusive, and I wondered what the result would be if combined into the same gun. DISCLAIMER: every company advises against combining these aftermarket parts and do not guarantee their proper function. I am not advising anyone to try this So, I ordered all the requisite parts and began putting them in incrementally, taking an average of 10 trigger pull weights. The results were as follows: Stock trigger: 5lb 8oz HBI Red Spring with OP striker: 4lb 4oz OP striker, HBI red spring, OP trigger, Apex disco & backplate: 2lb 12oz I also heavily polished the trigger bar and striker block. I would say that 80% of the grit in the initial trigger pull was due to the rough coating on the trigger bar scraping against the striker block. Once I polished to the point of removing the black coating (careful not to effect the geometry), the pull smoothed dramatically. I would describe the result as a very light pull with a soft wall and very short travel and reset. It stays out of my way when firing, which is all I wanted from a trigger. It's not as light as the shadow, but for a polymer SF trigger, I'm very pleased. So far, no light strikes on a mix of factory ammo. I'll be taking intermittent measurements as I get towards 1000 rounds to see how the gun settles in. I am also on the hunt for alternative trigger return springs. I have seen mention of custom options on some forum, but the search continues.