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kneelingatlas

CZ Tuning 101 with Professor Atlas

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Ok fellas. Need some help. I installed the RRK on an SP-01 manual safety. Stock sear. Works fine in double action but it won't reset in single acrion.
 
I just realized I didn't install the short reset lifter arm in the sear. The one that comes with the short reset kit. Would that cause this issue?
 
Mind you, I don't have either set screw in the trigger yet so its not that the screws are not adjusted.
 
Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 
I figured it out. Swapping out the lifter arm that comes with the short reset fixed the issue. Gun runs like a champ.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

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during the DA stroke on my practice gun I have always had a bit of crunch (Shadow 2). I have no idea where it's from or what causes it. I've swapped out hammers, springs, hammer struts and it's still there. So it's somewhere in the frame I guess? Anyone know the feeling I'm talking about and how to get rid of it?

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during the DA stroke on my practice gun I have always had a bit of crunch (Shadow 2). I have no idea where it's from or what causes it. I've swapped out hammers, springs, hammer struts and it's still there. So it's somewhere in the frame I guess? Anyone know the feeling I'm talking about and how to get rid of it?
Its probably the sear. I had the same. I swapped out the sear when I installed the adjustable sear from CGW.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

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Hmmm, hadn't swapped sears, I will try that. thanks

On 10/13/2019 at 8:29 AM, anonymouscuban said:

Its probably the sear. I had the same. I swapped out the sear when I installed the adjustable sear from CGW.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk
 

 

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The adjustable sear is awesome.  Be careful to leave enough "overtravel" in your trigger movement so that the hammer is clearing the sear as it falls (you can actually see it if you hold the hammer with your thumb while working the trigger, so it's easy enough).  I was tempted to make my trigger have even less movement, but I don't want to wear out the sear

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On 10/20/2019 at 12:36 AM, slavex said:

Hmmm, hadn't swapped sears, I will try that. thanks

 


 

sear doesnt do anything in the DA stroke. 
DA is the disconnector coming off the trigger bar

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Sear in fact does something in a DA stroke. It rides the hammer, rough finish on the underside of the sear will course rough feeling DA.

Edited by Dmitri_W

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ripped it apart again last night and decided to break out the flitz (never done that before, usually my stones did a good enough job). Hit the trigger bow, disco and underside of the sear cage, to say it's nice now would be an understatement. 

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Thank you Professor!!!!! I tackled my gritty stiff trigger on my SP-01today, following your photos. I don't think I would have tried it without. I did the CGW Self Defense firing pin/spring set and am very happy. DA is down to 7 1/2# and SA is 4 1/2#. It still had a long pull (using the stock hammer) but only the spring pressure is felt now.

 

Thanks again,

Richard

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Hey Professor,

 

Just a quick note to say thanks.  I followed you article and finally finished my Accu Shadow.  I wouldn't have tried it without your help.  Trigger pull is now 1lb 15oz single action and 4.5 lbs double.  Being as the gun was already  a CZ custom, I was amazed by the improvement.

 

Thanks again...

 

20190601_074045.jpg

Edited by BadShot

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Hey Professor,

 

Just a quick note to say thanks.  I followed you article and finally finished my Accu Shadow.  I wouldn't have tried it without your help.  Trigger pull is now 1lb 15oz single action and 4.5 lbs double.  Being as the gun was already  a CZ custom, I was amazed by the improvement.

 

Thanks again...

 

20190601_074045.thumb.jpg.103bee042467959f91955907ff4fde81.jpg

Don't sneeze with your finger on that trigger!! LOL

 

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

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Guys... one thing to not neglect is smoothing the mag release and the holes in the frame that it rides in. I just did this and what a difference it makes it mag changes.

Sent from my SM-G930U using Tapatalk

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One more thanks for this. I've got my first CZ, and SP-01 manual safety. Started out with a few small parts from CGW and now have just about everything they offer in there. I just did the sear cage, and thanks to your instructions it was way easier than I had imagined based on other comments. Good stuff. Thank you!

Edited by 024

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Love the trigger on my Shadow 2 but would like to get the pull weight down. Would like SA to be in the low 2# range. DA I'd be happy with anything under 6#. I see the the CGW kit will get me down into the high 2# to low 3# range on the SA pull. Can this be massaged to get the pull weight lower or do I need to look for a different configuration? New to the CZ family so not sure what all of my options are.

 

Thanks

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Posted (edited)
On 12/30/2019 at 9:30 PM, robbiespratt said:

Love the trigger on my Shadow 2 but would like to get the pull weight down. Would like SA to be in the low 2# range. DA I'd be happy with anything under 6#. I see the the CGW kit will get me down into the high 2# to low 3# range on the SA pull. Can this be massaged to get the pull weight lower or do I need to look for a different configuration? New to the CZ family so not sure what all of my options are.

 

Thanks

My S2 trigger is 5.5 d/a and 2.25 s/a.  I cut 5 coils off a 15# hammer spring, bent the trigger return spring back as far as the slide stop hole in the frame a few times,and cut  3 coils off the firing pin spring to prevent lite strikes.Put a dab of blue loctite between the firing pin retaining plate and the slide . Ignites CCI primers 100%. Reset from the factory is about 2.5mm. No creep after 1000 rounds.

Edited by hal1955

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Never had any light strikes with the 11.5# main spring and 10# recoil spring in my shadow 2 even with CCI primers. DA is 5 4.3 oz while SA is 1 # 9.9 oz. I’m also using CGW reduced TRS, extended firing pin and reduced firing pin spring.
 

However, there were few times when I forgot to reinstall the extended firing pin and reduced firing pin spring (I use the stock firing pin and firing pin spring during my dry fire practice) prior to going to a match and still didn’t experience any light strikes. 

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Hello!  What a great thread this is. I'm a newbie to the site and CZs, but used this thread to do the CGW Short Reset and Reduced Reach kits in my SP-01.  This made it VERY easy.  My pull is higher than I expected though, and wondering if anyone might have advice.  With the 13# blue spring my DA is still well over the 8# limit of my Wheeler pull gauge, and my SA is right around 4.25-4.5#.  I didn't go crazy polishing but did all the areas in Atlas's original post with 800 grit followed up with a quick once over with flitz.  Any idea why i might still be like a pound or so higher than what everyone else seems to be getting?  I mentioned in an earlier post that even after just doing the firing pin, spring, and FPB block spring my DA seemed to go up a bit, despite the plunger being glassy smooth in its travel.  Is it possible it's just a lubrication issue? 

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4 hours ago, BHogan said:

Hello!  What a great thread this is. I'm a newbie to the site and CZs, but used this thread to do the CGW Short Reset and Reduced Reach kits in my SP-01.  This made it VERY easy.  My pull is higher than I expected though, and wondering if anyone might have advice.  With the 13# blue spring my DA is still well over the 8# limit of my Wheeler pull gauge, and my SA is right around 4.25-4.5#.  I didn't go crazy polishing but did all the areas in Atlas's original post with 800 grit followed up with a quick once over with flitz.  Any idea why i might still be like a pound or so higher than what everyone else seems to be getting?  I mentioned in an earlier post that even after just doing the firing pin, spring, and FPB block spring my DA seemed to go up a bit, despite the plunger being glassy smooth in its travel.  Is it possible it's just a lubrication issue? 

All guns are a bit different. Lube wouldn’t hurt but did u install a reduced power trigger return spring? 

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I did

1 hour ago, hal1955 said:

All guns are a bit different. Lube wouldn’t hurt but did u install a reduced power trigger return spring? 

I did, along with the floating pin.  What I haven't done yet is install the travel limit set screws on the trigger (those little things are tough to get started!), but that shouldn't impact break weight right?

 

I'm also wondering if I can trust my wheeler gauge.  When I hang a 5# weight from it it does read about exactly that, but I still don't trust it.  I may buy another just to put my mind at ease. 

 

As far as lubrication, okay to just put a drop of gun oil right on the top of the sear cage assembly and let it leak down in? 

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, BHogan said:

I did

I did, along with the floating pin.  What I haven't done yet is install the travel limit set screws on the trigger (those little things are tough to get started!), but that shouldn't impact break weight right?

 

I'm also wondering if I can trust my wheeler gauge.  When I hang a 5# weight from it it does read about exactly that, but I still don't trust it.  I may buy another just to put my mind at ease. 

 

As far as lubrication, okay to just put a drop of gun oil right on the top of the sear cage assembly and let it leak down in? 

travel limit screw is irrelevant to trigger pull weight. You can oil the crap out of that gun without hurting anything. Try a lighter hammer spring to reduce trigger pull, or clip a 15# till u get to 5.5# da and use a reduced firing pin spring to prevent light strikes. My S2 uses 15# hammer spring minus 5 coils, my trigger pull is 5.5da/2.25 sa.

Edited by hal1955

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19 hours ago, hal1955 said:

travel limit screw is irrelevant to trigger pull weight. You can oil the crap out of that gun without hurting anything. Try a lighter hammer spring to reduce trigger pull, or clip a 15# till u get to 5.5# da and use a reduced firing pin spring to prevent light strikes. My S2 uses 15# hammer spring minus 5 coils, my trigger pull is 5.5da/2.25 sa.

Thanks, I'm going to try the 11.5# spring and see how that goes.  This is a mostly a home defense gun so I don't mind a bit of weight on the DA.  I talked to David and I think part of the problem is that I was taking DA pulls from hammer down vs half cocked. From half, it's right on 8# as described, on the nose, 

 

Now I just need to figure out how to get my fat fingers to get those trigger set screws started. That's the hardest thing I've ever done, lol

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After installing the safety I noticed that I forgot to reinstall the right side safety detent. It did feel odd that it was harder getting the safety back in after removing it, but I can’t remove the safety now that it is reassembled without the right safety detent in place. The safety functions correctly with an audible click and everything else cycles correctly, but I am a little worried about not being able to detail strip the gun now because the safety can’t be removed. Any suggestions? Or should I just take it to a cz gunsmith?

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@E3_Moose which gun are working on? With the Shadow/2 guns the detent simply stops the right side safety from falling off, it doesn't do anything with the disassembly of the system.

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I need some advice.  Just fitted a pre B disco in my sp01 shadow.  I had to shortsen the wings a bit for the gun to reset properly. The reset and trigger feals great. I have about 1.5 mm freeplay before SA breaks 
 

But just before the DA breaks it feels like hitting a wall that you have to push through. 

I think the trigger bar gets stuck on the disco when it is pushed down by the searhouse to release.. But Im absolutely not sure.. 

I have deburred and polished everything.  

Any clues?

Edited by Vikingr

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