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George16

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Everything posted by George16

  1. It’s a 3D printed metal. Cost $25 plus $5 shipping.
  2. Did you replace the safety? One of the reasons for a safety lever falling out is if the detent was not installed correctly or was not reinstalled at all. It’s what holds and keeps the right hand safety lever in place. The detents (and detent spring for the left side) are so small I always use a white towel when taking my gun apart so I can see them when they fall out. The right side doesn’t use a spring like the left side detent. Good luck.
  3. Check this link out. A guy at Sigtalk was able to make one. https://www.sigtalk.com/threads/trijicon-sro-battery-cap-removal-tool.398755/#post-5611406
  4. The spaceship’s design was based off of Bezos’ bald head which looks like a dickhead .
  5. Meopta Meosight III, Delta Optical MiniDot HD 25, and Meprolight MicroRDS use a footprint that is very similar to the one used by Docter. The four sockets, one in each corner, are in the exact same places. The holes for the screws, however, are not. This is why Meopta Meosight III, Delta Optical MiniDot HD 25, and Meprolight MicroRDS cannot be mounted on every adapter designed for the Docter/Noblex footprint. Several adapters are designed so that both Docter/Noblex footprint sights and Meopta Meosight III/Delta Optical MiniDot HD 25/Meprolight MicroRDS can be mounted on them (see the images below). This info was taken from here: https://optics-info.com/footprints-on-red-dot-sights/
  6. Very nice. No problem with the choice of background music. It actually matches your shooting .
  7. If that was an overspray of polycoat, use some fine compound as @eerw stated and go from there. While you’re at it, double check the thumbrest screws and make sure they don’t protrude to the frame mounting holes too. My TSO and czechmate were tight initially but were fixed by using a fine compound while racking it multiple times until it was smooth. It’s still tight but not as tight as when it was brand new.
  8. More than likely, your ammo’s OAL is too long. Do the plunk and spin as MM stated or send the barrel to him for reaming.
  9. If your 1100 came with the new and thicker version of the Dillon shell plate, there’s no need to buy the aftermarket ones. I’m using the stock shell plate for processing and reloading 9 and .223 without any problems at all.
  10. One more and you’ll have 50 posts. Whatcha selling ?
  11. I used a drawer pull painted in black.
  12. Simple green for me. Cheap and cleans off the grime and oil really well.
  13. If you’re using Dillon dies, that’s a broken E-clip from the die
  14. I’d rather have the FW Arms Primer Popper Decapper and Auto-centering Swage dies instead of the Mighty Armory dies. They’re better and cheaper too. I haven’t have any problems with them processing thousands of 9mm and .223 brass.
  15. Check and make sure the plastic ring indexer is not broken. By the looks of it, I think it’s broken.
  16. From the case feeder manual: The two socket-head machine screws (#13732) should be just tight enough for the clutch to drive the casefeed plate under a normal load of brass. To check this, place the casefeed assembly in front of you on the bench. With the switch off, plug the casefeeder in. Turn the switch to on position and observe the movement of the plate. You should be able to cause the clutch to slip, using moderate finger pressure, without stalling the motor. Alternately tighten and loosen the two machine screws evenly, observing the effect on the holding power of the clutch. The correct setting will stall the plate before stalling the motor, yet not slip when the casefeed bowl is about half full of brass. Note: The casefeed bowl is not designed to be completely filled with brass. If it is fully loaded it will not function reliably. The rated capacity of the casefeeder is about 1/2 of the bowl’s physical capacity.
  17. That’s the same motor in the the new variable speed casefeeder that comes with the RL1100. If you have the dual speed motor, then this is a good upgrade. @Cuz, After tightening the clutch a little bit, I am able to put 500 cases of .223 without any problems when I do my processing. Just make sure you don’t tighten it to much so you don’t burn the motor. Once this motor dies, I’ll install one of my spare brushless motors (for my RC buggies) and see if it’ll work. If there’s anyone willing to donate their old casefeeder motor board and wiring, I can rig it with the brushless motor and see if it’ll work. Brushless motors have more torque compared to the puny 540 and 550-sized Mabuchi brushed motor currently being used in the casefeeders.
  18. As mentioned, you’ll need medium grips when using the CZC big mag well so there won’t be any gap. https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/grips/tactical-sports/cz-grips-al-medium-silver-check.html Im using this one: https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/cz-ts-medium-grips-aluminum-silver-for-mag-well.html
  19. You’re welcome. As for interference with my grip, none at all.
  20. No issues at all. I have used both CCI SPP, SMP and SRP with 10.4 Gr of #7 and 9.7 Gr of #7 with 124 Gr JHP from Precision Delta without any problems.
  21. Yes. Heres a pic: stock mag well on left czechmate, cz Custom large mag well on right czechmate.
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