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About Leozinho

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  • Birthday 01/01/1972

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  1. Apologies if this has been covered - i can pick up a P09 pretty cheap. I want to keep it basic and budget. With a just a $88 CGW hammer and a competition spring set and basic polishing, what type of trigger pull weights can I expect in DA and SA? I don’t want to go for the full CGW kit, at least at first. Thanks.
  2. Anyone tried this one? http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XAIMBCGN3LW $99 sale price for a low mass bolt carrier group. I assume it was manufactured for the 'shaving ounces off my AR" club and not the "let's see if I can get my AR to shoot softer' club (I'm in the latter) but that shouldn't matter, right?
  3. I found a good deal on a Velocity 3# on another forum's classified section, so that's what I got. It will be a while before I get to wring it out. I might try the tuning trick above on a cheap mil-spec trigger I have laying around for a different AR. Thanks all.
  4. What a good value trigger? This is not for a top-of-the-line build, so I'd like to keep the cost down. Therefore I've ruled out the Geiselles and the drop-in units (unless I found a smoking deal. Right now the best I've seen is a Velocity 3lb for $130.) I'd like to spend less, but would buy that if its the best value. Other option is the ALG Defense enhanced trigger, but I have a feeling it's just a glorified mil-spec trigger. Plus, a quick search shows other companies are offering 'enhanced' mil-spec type triggers at lower prices. Not sure what else is out there. The AR aftermarket has exploded in the last few years so I'm not in tune with all the available options. Let me know what else I should consider. Thanks.
  5. Rob, Thanks for the reply. That is a lot of knowledge that is a tremendous help to me. I appreciate it. Out of curiosity, how many reloadings are you getting from a case, and what are you looking for to let you know when it's time to discard a case? I doubt I'll be pushing the Amax's at the highest velocities.
  6. I have 120 gr and 140 gr Amax to start. I've read that the 140's are the best, but I picked up the 120's at a gun show just for the heck of it. I have one pound of Accurate 4350 to start (I know it's not as popular as H4350, but I can't find H4350). Well, already have my dies, which are FL. So I'm pretty much set there anyway.
  7. What are the basic steps of reloading for precision rifle? In other words, I'm not looking for the elaborate voodoo that benchrest or extreme precision shooters do when reloading. Just the basic "95%" solution. This is for a 6.5 Creedmoor in a long action Savage with a 26" McGowen barrel. I'm using once-fired Hornady brass from some factory Hornady 120 Amax cartridges. (Fired from my rifle) I have A4350 (not H4350) powder and 120 and 140 gr Amax bullets. I'm using Hornady Custom dies (full length resizer) I'm thinking - Tumble Lube with Hornady One shot Deprime and full length resize Trim using Lee case trimmer Chamfer and deburr neck with Lee tool Clean pocket with Lee primer pocket cleaner Prime using Lee Autoprime Weigh powder using RCBS trickle charger and RCBS beam scale Load powder Seat bullet ---------- Am I missing something? Any use in sorting brass by weight? Do I need to do more prep to the primer pocket, or is using the little cheap Lee primer pocket cleaner enough? Debur the flash hole? Can I use the factory OAL length, or do I need to find my lands and back off a bit? (I don't have the specialized Hornady tool to measure when the bullet is hitting the lands, but will get it if necessary) Thanks. I've never reloaded anything other than 9mm on a progressive reloader.
  8. Thanks, Cha Lee. This is strictly a DIY project. No doubt Ion-bond is better than Gunkote, but I'm going to do this with an airbrush and my kitchen oven.
  9. Is anyone sure of which Gunkote color Tanfoglio used on the Limited Custom (the one made available in Canada but not the U.S.) There are several Gunkote colors in black (Satin black, flat black, gloss black, etc? There's even HK black, CR black and SOCOM black.) Looks like either Satin or Flat black, but I have no experience with either.
  10. Welcome. If you don't already know, you have an excellent monthly USPSA match in your hometown. http://www.fredericksburgps.com/ Be sure to sign up as soon as registration opens.
  11. Hi This might be a hard to describe. I may have the nomenclature wrong for some of the things I'm trying to describe, so please bear with me. I'm using a Hornady LnL AP with a Hornady powder drop and PTX (powder-thru-expander) die. I'm getting too much variance in how much powder it drops. Let's say I think I have it dialed in for 3.8 grains. Once in every 20 rounds I'll get a charge as low as 3.3 grains. It's noticeable in the next station, which is a Hornady powder cop die. I'm trying to use the same force and rythm on the handle. To make matters more complicated, I can also get higher charge (but I think have that figured out.) In order to bell the case like I want, I have had to adjust the powder drop die to the point that rotor actuates slightly when the shell plate and handle are in the raised position even if there is no case. No powder is released, but the rotor moves a ~20 degrees through its arc. That seems to be loading more powder in the metering insert. So if I'm working on setting up the OAL in the crimp and raise the handle 6 times (thereby moving the powder drop rotor 20 degrees each time) in order to adjust the crimp. Now the charge when I finally put a case under the powder drop will have increased from 3.8 to 4.2. Once I realized what was going on I was able to eliminate these higher charges by making sure that the first case through the powder drop station got emptied out, and then weighing the next three or four. Ultimately, though, it's unsafe. 1) Any idea why I might be getting an occasional low charge? 2) Is it normal to have the rotor arm actuate slightly even when there's no case there? I have to think not, as that would seem to be a design flaw. I will say adjusting the PTX isn't the easiest thing, so I'm guessing that I don't have it adjusted correctly. I'm using WST powder. Thanks.
  12. This is exactly what I did. I bought one from CZ Custom and had Stuart change the hammer and do an action job. I'm extremely pleased with the trigger. After shooting Berettas and Sigs, I had no idea a double action could be so smooth and so light. (The SA is sweet, too.) I let a few folks that know CZ's play with the trigger and all were very impressed.
  13. Thanks, CHA-LEE. I probably am overthinking removing a bit of metal. I've read your post on sight ratios and it's been very helpful. This is for a new CZ, and in fact, I have a two ~.120 front sights and two .125 rear sights. My plan is to have one pair .100 (FS) and .125 (RS) and the other .120 (FS) and .150 (RS). Then I can compare the two setups. I just have the urge to tinker a bit. I've got a .100 FO Dawson and .140 factory rear on my M&P Pro now, and I think I went too narrow with the front sight.
  14. I've picked up an extra rear sight that I want to open up from .125 to .150. My plan is to use aluminum oxide sandpaper glued to a metal ruler. I'll work on one side until it's .137, and then move to the other side until it's .150. I'll touch up with Brownells Dicropan T-4 cold blue. I've got some little needle files I could use, but I think the longer ruler might make it easier to keep things level. Any flaws to this plan? (I'm sitting in a hotel room thinking about how to do this when I get home, so don't actually have the components in front of me. I might be overlooking something.) As always, thanks to the knowledgeable folks here that are quick to provide helpful advice.
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