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MemphisMechanic

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Everything posted by MemphisMechanic

  1. It depends 100% on bullet and powder. I assume you shoot coated. A plated or JHP with no exposed lead, means pretty much never. As long as it’s run with a clean powder.
  2. This. And if your bench isn’t screwed into the wall you need to do this first. I promise you my bench was sturdier than yours: 250lbs... and built with 4x4s for the beams with a 1.5” thick top. Lagging it into the studs still made a huge difference.
  3. I reamed the SDI barrel in my old M&P to take 147s out to 1.155” My load at 1.130” (for all my guns) grouped nice and tight after it was throated. I highly suggest sending the barrel to someone to get it cut for longer ammo, as the APEX barrels have short chambers. Several vendors can do it for you - Patriot Defense would be my recommendation. Hell, I could do it if you like, but most people prefer sending a barrel to a known company.
  4. You bench isn’t entirely static. If you screw it into the studs of the wall. I guarantee you’ll see a difference in the press’s performance. There’s a reason several of veteran 650 owners asked about / suggested this for flipped primers.
  5. @rowdyb get interested in rock climbing. We have an indoor bouldering gym nearby that I used to belong to. I was lifting weights 6 days a week, roughly 7 hours total, for months before I first went. That was a rude awakening. Not even five minutes in, your forearms are done. Nothing like lifting your bodyweight with your fingers for five minutes straight - and having fun doing it - to make you stronger.
  6. The hundo is tight. In time you learn how badly they have to fail the hundo in order to actually cause a problem. just like any other case gauge... a failure to gauge means I wouldn’t bring that round to Nationals. But 95% of gauge-sticking rounds go through your gun just fine in practice.
  7. I have no idea. You see... I work with these kinds of measurements for a living. Your digital calipers are accurate to +\- .001” on a good day. Unless you’re using a micrometer to measure the crimp, your tool doesn’t have enough resolution for really fine tasks. Given that, I’ve always set the crimp by feel and with a straightedge first, getting rid of all of the belling, and then pulled a bullet to verify I’m set correctly. My crimp has never caused issues and I’ve loaded 50k+ coated bullets in 9mm. Simple process, and it works.
  8. N320 will show almost zero velocity difference between 1.100” and 1.150” in a 9mm load. Perhaps a few FPS. You’re already so low in case volume that our friends above are very much correct. It barely matters with titegroup, prima V, or N-320. Set your crimp so that when you pull a bullet there’s only a faint trace of the case mouth on the side of it. Remove the flare but do NOT crimp into a coated bullet in 9mm. Find a charge weight that gets you 130-133 pf in both guns. Play with OAL to tune your 25yd group sizes. Then re-chrono, and tweak your powder load if needed. (I do find in some guns that pushing 147s a little faster has a dramatic effect on accuracy. Think 135pf vs 128pf.)
  9. Put the plate rack way out there if practical. Use one single plate. Bring 100ft of cheap clothesline so no one has to run 30yd down there to reset it. Also, expect PCC to run away with that stage… And everyone else to bitch about it favoring chickrifle minor shooters.
  10. Of course you did. Welcome to local matches - where a centerpunched popper that doesn’t fall or a bad jam get you a reshoot from most of the timer holders. Doesn’t mean you were wrong if those guys think you were being a jerk.
  11. Agreed. If it’s halfway off, a quick offhand tug and it’s probably left behind if it’s tripping you up. Otherwise let it hang.
  12. I saw 132 in the summer and 136ish in the winter IIRC. Is that anywhere near where you were at?
  13. ”this gun has several major drawbacks, while SIG CZ and Walther are practically cramming parts support down our throats...”
  14. I like WST in 9mm a lot. Cheap, easy to find, no dirtier than average, and it meters well. I like inverse temp sensitive powders because it’s over 90 for most of my match season. So after shooting it on a hot day? I know that ammo will only gain velocity if I go to a match up north in the fall. I’ve loaded it beneath a 124 FMJ and a 135 coated, as seen here:
  15. Both times I’ve fallen the solution has been to twist to the side and then land hard on my hip/side/shoulder without breaking my fall with my arms. Kept the gun squarely downrange.. and landing on an elbow would have resulted in, well, what happened to you. Each time I had a mag pouch or holster wind up muddy. Each time I left the dried mud on it for a few months. As a reminder to watch my footing, or a battle scar, or simply out of laziness.
  16. The follower is getting caught at the transition between the mag body and the extension. Round all the bottom corners of the follower, do the same for the square lip on the bottom of the mag tube so it doesn’t stick again in reverse - when being shot. Then pack it mostly full til your’re about where you are, and slam it butt-down on a hard surface if it sticks in the future. That’ll make the follower jump down into the tube if it sticks after that... which probably won’t be necessary.. but helps if it does happen.
  17. This is why you man up and run the gun in DA mode. That trigger press ain’t that hard, son. (Oh and also... just maybe buy a better fitting holster.)
  18. I run a supressor front and find it sufficient on its own. With 1/8” of the front blade centered in the bottom of the window, the dot is dead in the middle of the glass. My reason for running? Those situations where you wind up shooting weakhand wrapped oddly around a wall and cannot find the dot. If I lose it, I know where to twist the gun to regain an index. With a few weeks practice, that’s the only time you’d possibly need an iron sight. I don’t know anyone running a full set of backup irons who is competitive above B class. Those are in the tactical-dood category gear.
  19. [sarcasm] Sure there is. [/sarcasm]
  20. You’re not. The rest of us elected to lower the magazine height in the gun, and we can use OEM Glock mags & extensions. Mag releases are cheap and easy to replace if you mess up. I took roughly 1/8” off the top of the mag release in my KE Arms lower and it works great.
  21. If it’s tungsten, you’ll know it the moment you heft it - if you can remove it from the grip. I’m not familiar with P320s. Tungsten is 1.74 times heavier than lead in the same volume. It’s heavy as hell. If you’re not sure what the weight is made of, and it feels like you would expect something that size to feel... It’s a nonferrous stainless steel.
  22. It sounds like someone is trying to mimic what the Apex fitted barrels do for the M&Ps. That’s why I asked. Thing is... that isn’t needed for a Glock. It wouldn’t show nearly as much improvement.
  23. Use the springs out of both mags and some creativity? This 53 round colt mag ran great for me before I sold all my colt stuff.
  24. That was, indeed, the first gun in your list that didn’t have me shaking my head wondering what you were thinking. (Sometimes Open Glocks run. But a sigma and a 5906 at matches? Ugh.)
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