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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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    Memphis, TN
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Back From the Dead

Back From the Dead (11/11)

  1. You disliked my phrasing along the way, then agreed with the point I was actually making. I can dig it.
  2. Sweet! I didn’t know they’d procured some carbide reamers. Thanks for sharing that.
  3. Is there an empty mag in the gun? If so, it’s holding the slide release tab up. If not, lift the slide release with your fingertip and make sure it snaps back down agressively under spring pressure. On a lot of handgun models it is easy to reassemble the gun without properly positioning that spring.
  4. Also, sidenote: there’s another reason to shoot 124 a little faster. If your load is supersonic, the timer has a much higher chance of picking up all of your shots. At sea level, 1,125 fps is when you get the crack of a sonic boom from your ammo. That’s ~140PF with a 124, and anything over 129 with a 115gr. It’s kinda fun to load ammo that is below and above that threshold, and shoot them back to back through a quiet PCC.
  5. Try one of the common slightly slower powders. A 115 or a 124 over something like 231 at 140ish PF will probably make you a lot happier; it’ll recoil much more like your factory ammo. There’s no reason to waste expensive powder in a gun which really likes a slightly faster snappier load. Just remember to choose a load based upon three things in order: 1. Group size at 25+ yards. 2. Dot movement. Gotta stay flat when ripping fast pairs. 3. How it feels. Snappy or soft, clunky or smooth. Most PCC shooters focus on #3 while ignoring all other factors, as you know. For a fully grown man shooting a handgun from their shoulder, it doesn’t make sense to obsess with softening something that’s already plenty controllable. If it lets you rip a bill drill into a 25yd target with 6A’s, that’s a match winner. Even if it’s a bit snappy.
  6. The reamers and shops @lll Otto lll mentioned will do a great job on a Czechmate and all CZ-75 series guns, including an SP-01 (Shadow 1). But they the hardened barrel steel of a P-09, P10, or a Shadow 2 will destroy their reamers. The barrel is harder than the tool.
  7. A stiffer spring is the biggest help available, honestly. If you cannot retract the slide fully with an 18-20 pound spring, I suggest you hit it with your purse to assist in driving it rearward. The tip of the ejector can be filed / reprofiled to change the trajectory of the ejected brass. It’s the combination of the ammo and the recoil spring that determine the slide speed, and the resulting velocity of the exiting brass. If you want to work on the ejector, watch the gun eject brass and determine if you need to get rid of some upward “lob” to the arc, or if it needs to go rearward. Etc. Once you think through the mechanics of the gun’s function it should be obvious what to do: The brass pivots around the claw of the extractor on it’s way out of the gun. When and were the ejector’s tip strikes the case is what determines HOW it pivots and is launched out of the weapon. Example: Filing the ejector so it becomes more of a point at just the top (you cut it from | to a / shape) will cause all of the impact to be higher, so it doesn’t get as much loft to it’s arc. That would have been caused by an impact down low on the case. The ejector is part of the sear cage, which is neither difficult to replace nor very expensive, so experimenting isn’t going to ruin your gun.
  8. Worn magazine springs will be the very first thing to check, and the odds are pretty high that it’ll fix the problem. Mag body and rounds slide into gun. Mag slams to a stop. Weakened mag spring lets the rounds bounce back downward slgihtly, and the slide gets past the rear corner of the top round before the spring can push them back upward. If you’re the kind of guy who drives his mags in to make the gun auto-forward, then it’s even more likely that this is the issue.
  9. @twodownzero there’s also the fact that the bullet is more stable because it’s both traveling and spinning a bit faster. Along with a host of other factors I’m not sophisticated enough to calculate. All I know is that the sweet spot for accuracy when it comes to heavy 9mm loads usually isn’t at the bottom of the acceptable velocity window. And I’ve worked up a quie few 9mm recipes in the past 16 years or so.
  10. Amusingly enough, 147s in particular tend to shoot tighter groups at 25yds in many recipes when they’re fired at a higher velocity. Super slow, sluggish heavy 9mm ammo typically doesn’t group as tightly. In many cases. So while you feel YOU shoot straighter without as much motivation to flinch, you may find that your gun’s shooting a much wider group than it could be. But you won’t know until you test it. Velocity/powder charge is a key factor in load development: I’ll never understand why most USPSA guys pick a bullet, find what makes X power factor, and call it good. Accuracy matters, and dialing in the ammo for your particular gun is way more important than power factor. I’d much rather shoot a 1.5” grouping 140PF at a distant mini popper than some softballs which group 6+ inches.
  11. SGMs are garbage regardless of what you’re sticking them in. ETS or glock brand mags will run like a swiss watch in a GMR. Just keep the GMR very well oiled and feed it high quality mags.
  12. And that, right there, is how you know this solvent will actually do something. I’ve been wrenching on cars for 20+ years. Long enough to remember the old “I’ll melt your hands off” solvents we used in our parts washers that could get anything spotless. The new water-based ones don’t dissolve your gloves… but they also don’t dissolve anything else.
  13. Do you actually think you shoot any better or faster with 127 than with 133-135? You’re running a risk for absolutely no gain at all.
  14. My last match was in September of 2019. It’s safe to say that I am through the withdrawl phase and out the other side. (Got remarried, bought a big fixer-upper project house, I’ve got three chainsaws to port & build, a pair of 5.3L LS heads to build for a customer, a tractor with a blown motor I need to rebuild…)
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