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MemphisMechanic

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About MemphisMechanic

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    The Almighty Grease Ring

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    Memphis, TN
  • Real Name
    Evan

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  1. Everyone turns a few parts into paperweights when learning to work on their guns. It happens. This is why we always grind on the cheaper of two interfacing parts. I bought two bolos when building my tanfo: the only way to know you have the trigger fully tuned is to go to the bleeding edge, then back it off a little bit on the replacement part.
  2. They let you start with the bolt locked to the rear? The presence of a BAD lever is obviously irrelevant, if you have to run the charging handle after starting with a closed chanber. Of course he already mentioned that most AR9s don’t lock back. But also I have never shot the gun dry in a match, nor encountered an “unloaded start, slide/bolt lockef open” start position. So you’d only use a BAD Lever when clearing malfunctions, or at ULSC.
  3. @Degnan unless there’s a good mating between each grain and the epoxy, that piece of grit will fall off eventually. Make sure it’s all packed onto the gun well. Then. Take care to scrub ALL the loose media off after 24 hours. You want to get it all off the gun, and make sure to clean it well before taking it to a match. Otherwise it might... say... come off the grip in your holster and jam between the kydex and the gun, scratching the heck out of your slide when you reholster. Ask me how I know tamping then scrubbing is important. Go ahead. Ask. (Th
  4. You should be willing to be sloppier with your hits in certain situations, or you’re sometimes leaving a higher score on the table. This is coming from a Minor shooter in Production, btw. In Major, eating the Charlies make even more sense. When I was a frustrated B class, my very first M-class classifier was a ~10 HF stage. I shot a delta and three charlies in a 12 round stage. In minor. It was a Master class performance because it was very fast. (I had shot that same classifier with all As earlier in the year roughly 1.3-1.4 seconds slower. It was good for
  5. This is where experience comes into play. My buddies and I try to estimate what the HF will be each time we break down a stage together. Do that for half a dozen matches, and you’ll start to get pretty decent at it. Getting your guess within +/- 1 point of HF is more than adequate when it comes to deciding a stage strategy. Precision isn’t required. The KISS version? A bunch of wide open paper targets and 12ish yard poppers where you’re able to shoot nonstop from buzzer to finish is a high hit factor stage. Anything which adds time into the stage where the gun
  6. Legal. Also irrelevant, but you can have one on your rifle.
  7. Your review carries a lot more weight because you didn’t arrive brandishing a discount code.
  8. I wont be running a light on my plastic gun.
  9. Yes, you should be fine. The left side of the safety goes in with a snap, after all, and should not drift out of the gun.
  10. Hey! I think that’s the highest praise I can get, when it comes to how well I produced that series... thanks. (I won’t ask which parts you “barely” destroyed.)
  11. Oh she’s doing it right with an OME suspension from the guys in Australia. It’ll ride significantly better than stock, but don’t ask what it cost... (I’m a certified master Toyota tech who spent 8 years wrenching on them. Going to those forums guys for sound advice is like going to Glocktalk to learn how to shoot fast. )
  12. I’m getting ready to do a 3” lift and 32s on a friend’s 2021 TRD this coming weekend in the exact same color.
  13. For hours. Until everything I highlighted in the videos as a polishing spot looks like wet chrome. Most of us actually do 2 or 3 rounds of polishing before we’re really happy: each time you tear it down and look for spots where metal is rubbing metal that can be cleaned up.
  14. A 5.56 bullet. Not a long rifle.
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