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About MemphisMechanic

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    The Almighty Grease Ring

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    Memphis, TN
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  1. My schtick at the locals is to be the guy designing the medium field course with a few little technical challenges. Feel free to continue to hate me. (Despite the fact that I coached you to that Area match HOA win. You ungrateful SOB.)
  2. We’ll assume you meant an OAL of 1.147 or 1.145 As superdude said, with ANY new bullet and gun combination, you need to plunk & spin your ammo. Coated bullets often need to be loaded shorter due to fatter nose profiles, and the fact that they are .001” to .002” larger in diameter than jacketed bullets. Shorten your OAL gradually until they drop into the barrel and spin freely by hand.
  3. All of your primers should be driven below flush in order to ensure proper function. With a high primer, the first hit drives the primer into the pocket fully instead of denting it, making the issue look like light strikes if it’s visually inspected. The second strike sets off the freshly seated primer. Inspect all of your loaded ammo by touch, looking for primers which feel flush or high. If you can set the base of round on an absolutely flat surface like a pane of glass, and it rocks back and forth? That’s a round which will be problematic. For one... push harder. Pay attention to how each primer feels when seating it. Raise the handle slowly so you can feel it go in, then PUSH HARD at the end.
  4. Small hands prefer the traditional 75-series grip, and I’ve known several junior and youth shooters who universally love that smaller grip. Bigger hands? The SP01 is a bit cramped and the Tanfoglio-sized grip of the Shadow 2 is a much better fit. I certainly fall into this group. Also? Production Ms and GMs tend to be 16-45 year old males who have larger hands, and they set the trend other guys follow.
  5. If possible obtain a nut that threads onto that screw. Run the nut down onto the screw. Cut with dremel or file it down with a belt sander. Round the rough edge slightly with a hand file. Back the nut off the screw, causing it to straighten that last slightly marred thread.
  6. @DKorn @IHAVEGAS I think you’re both in the right. If you have three targets placed partially exposed around the same noshoot at 18yds, none of us could honesty say we were certain which one is being engaged. In an el prez, it would be damed obvious even if you are standing off to the side looking straight at the ejection port, and don’t have the targets in your peripheral vision. Like everything else, it’s situational and some common sense will sort out what you can honestly call, and cannot.
  7. For me, it comes down to this: <continuing to assume we’re discussing some tightly packed targets, and not obvious things like wide transitions or sprinting past a single hidden target...> What am I absolutely certain that I saw? If I’m positioned where I’m looking down the slide over his shoulder, and I can clearly see which target he’s aimed at? He’ll get an FTSA if I see him fire zero shots in it’s direction. I need to be able to see which target he is actually aimed at. If I’m not paying attention because I’m looking for a foot fault, or the hallway is too narrow and I’m stuck looking at gun from the side, or whatever else? The lack of ability to call the FTSA is on me at this point. Either I failed to position myself and pay attention, or an obstacle physically prevented it. Yes, we can all deduce what likely happened... but there is a small chance I might be wrong. So it’s time to default to the RO’s golden rule: Don’t be a dick.
  8. The penalty is called a Failure to Shoot At. Not failure to point at. That does not meet the definition of shoot, per the glossary. FTSA.
  9. Which was amusing. It was pretty easy to figure out, if you had the HF and percentage data from a shooter or two.
  10. Seven years. When you dredge up an old post, you don’t mess around.
  11. There’s a list of reasons I keep my guns quite hungry for primers as tough as CCI and S&B. Packaging size is very much one of those. You’re not joking. Most of my ammo gets loaded with CCI Magnum 550s. They’re easier to find, 650/1050 presses really run through them well, and my guns run om them. A bonus is arriving at a big match with Winchester or S&B primed ammo KNOWING it’ll run flawlessly, since the weapon has been chewing through brick-hard primers.
  12. @MikeyScuba buy them while they’re around. It’s not like you wouldn’t use them eventually...
  13. For a split second I read that as “$100 for used primers.” Now... *that* would be truly insane pricing.
  14. See the reply from Dillon themselves, a dozen or so above yours. They chimed in to explain it. I don’t pick up badly corroded outdoor range brass, and since I don’t wet tumble, I’ve never experienced one in person. To the originak poster? About 75k loaded on a 650. 10k on the 1050 I replaced it with. I’ve never set off a primer.
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