DesertTortoise

Very nice work Here is mine from a GI Rock Island. I'd like to get the sights machined one day.

I understand that. I've got standard pressure .45 ACP for 1911, 12.5k psi loads .45 acp for my ww1 Webley, and am now looking to load 40k psi .45 acp loads (460 Rowland levels) for a bolt action rifle. I really don't want to mix those up.

I haven't loaded 45 that light, but it looks like they have data from the bullet manufacturer here https://lehighdefense.com/ld-load-data If you end up using another source of data for 135s just remember that solid copper projectiles are longer than similar weight lead bullets so it would be easy to end up with over pressure.

Just a guess but I wonder if the extra mass from the red dot combine with the extra energy from the heavy recoil spring is jolting the hammer off of the sear. You could maybe put in a new sear spring and trigger return spring and see what happens.

DSC gun works does a lot of them. He is fast and affordable too. https://dscgunworks.com/

I did some load work ups with Hornady 68 gr. BTHP in my 18 inch 223 Wylde. So using a similar but not the same bullet. This bullet wasn't anything special for accuracy in my rifle so I didn't buy more when I ran out. If you are looking for a spherical powder, I got good velocity (up to 3000 fps) with Ramshot Tac. Accurate 2200 (spherical, meters well) and Varget (stick) both worked up to 2800 fps.

You can use a single Dillon powder measure for all three calibers. It's fairly easy to adjust and quick to move over to a different tool head. They work very well with spherical type powders.

I have more fun shooting rimfire. It's also the only venue to compete with my .22s.

10-8 performance makes an improved national match rear sight that will fit the military dovetail. For the front sights you can use paint or nail polish to make it more visible. To change front sights you'll need either a wide or narrow tenon replacement depending on which style they used. There is a square hole in the top of the slide, the front sights drops in and then it gets opened in place.

I think Insufficient tension on the disconnector / sear spring can cause hammer follow ?

Try IA Coatings in Houston and let them know what you want to do. They were pretty affordable when I had a pistol refinished.

Before one of my moves I asked a friend who is an explosive ordinance disposal officer about transporting reloading components. His only advice other than the precautions you have already taken (storing in a container that doesn't allow pressure to build if it does burn) was to not let the powder get excessively hot as it becomes more reactive at higher Temps. Probably not a major consideration except in summer.

I'm using the boss hanger with a safariland QLS so I can click in any holster with safariland pattern screws. I have one boss hanger with the safariland adapter and one without. You get more adjustability with the adapter but also more offset. but the QLS plate does work without one.

Try esstac https://esstac.com/shop-all/magazine-pouches/pistols/2011/

Headstamp- no need to sort by headstamp for plinking ammo. Lube- one shot works great and you don't need to remove it. Seems like it's a love / hate response to one shot. -inspection - I've never heard of looking inside a rifle case for cracks so I've never done that. Inspect just like a pistol case. Headspace- resize to saami spec. No benefit to minimaly resizing (shoulder bump) in plinking ammo. Shoulder bumping is only for brass that is going back into the same rifle it was fired already from. Overall length- for multiple rifles I'd just load to recommended book length. If you do go longer check the cartridges in all chambers as you described Crimp- no need to crimp rifle rounds. If you chose to crimp (which is said to prevent bullet setback in semi autos) use a very light crimp ideally on a seperate die, not the seating die

DSC gunworks has no wait time and will get it back to you in a week or two. It's about $200 plus cost of the plate or you can supply your own plate. He does really nice work.

Ok, you'd still have to replace that one with a low profile block then you can pretty much use any handguard. I'm assuming it has a standard barrel nut so any handguard with uses a standard barrel nut can be used.

Your handguard options will increase if you get remove the fixed front sight and install a low profile gas block. It's pretty easy to do yourself or any gunsmith can do it.

Thanks for the help!

I removed too much metal on my grip safety. It engages and disengaged the way I want it to, but if I pull the trigger hard - 10+ lbs of pressure - the hammer will fall without disengaging the grip safety. I suspect that I removed too much material at the wrong angle and the trigger bar is able push the grip safety out of the way. Where should I add material?

Looks like SSI stopped making them

Slides do come up for sale in the classifieds from time to time. Not sure if there is a factory source though.

I havent run those distances with the vtac sling, but it does stay tight after you cinch it down.

I have used a VTAC padded 2 point sling since 2008 in the military. You can quickly tighten and loosen with one hand and it works with the rifle slung across your back. Not super cheap at $60, but it's been worth it to me. Definitely get the padded version, especially if you are running with a rifle. https://www.vikingtactics.com/product-p/vtac-mk2.htm

IA Coatings in Houston has does industrial metal coatings and also works on firearms. They did great work (fast, cheap compared to other options, good quality) on a project for me. https://iacoatings.com/