Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Recommended Posts

Tnx! Then I'm not alone on this ūüôā¬†. Had a great Shadow Orange. Sold it since thinking Shadow 2 would be nicer... Sold it. Went to Standard class. Missed production and.. bought another Shadow 2 (stupid me). Today at the club I borrowed a Shadow SP01 and tried it side by side with my Shadow 2. Same groups. Feel of SP01 much more natural. Transition faster with SP01... And for some reason FS recovery better on SP01 (that's with the factory recoil spring on SP01 and standard trigger vs race hammer etc on Shadow 2). Oooo should not have asked. Now I want a Shadow SP01 again. I hate this sport ūüôā¬†Tnx MoRivera, tnx John!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
59 minutes ago, MoRivera said:

Indeed I do.  It just fits my hand better and points more naturally

 

There are at least 4 of us then :) . 

 

Not a knock on the S2, just not for me. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

haaaa makes me feel better! tried everything, LOK grips, Henning grips etc. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm trying to install the pro kit and no amount of pounding will get the hammer pin through the hammer.  I currently have both of them stuck (I don't know what possessed me to try both) in one side of the hammer.  Any advice on getting them in?  I don't have a vice to try pressing them in...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, matir said:

I'm trying to install the pro kit and no amount of pounding will get the hammer pin through the hammer.  I currently have both of them stuck (I don't know what possessed me to try both) in one side of the hammer.  Any advice on getting them in?  I don't have a vice to try pressing them in...

 

cgw recommends their starter punch $7.00

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had CGW put my hammer strut in the hammer as I had trouble with the pin also

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
49 minutes ago, matir said:

I'm trying to install the pro kit and no amount of pounding will get the hammer pin through the hammer.  I currently have both of them stuck (I don't know what possessed me to try both) in one side of the hammer.  Any advice on getting them in?  I don't have a vice to try pressing them in...

 

1. Do not work on guns when you are angry.

2. Send the parts in a small package to CGW or equivalent if you give up. Maybe you have a local  gunsmith in your area.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ended up buying a vise and using that as a poor man's arbor press to push the pins into place.  Worked great for a $20 vise, and I don't expect any problems from that in the future.

 

Cajunization is complete, but haven't had a chance to try it out yet.  Anything special I should check out?  I verified the firing pin block is moving properly by pushing on the firing pin with a punch with the trigger pulled and not, but it only travels ~2mm further with the trigger back.  I check on the slide and the firing pin consequently only sticks ~1.5-2mm out of the bolt when all the way forward -- will that be a problem for striking primers?  I don't remember what it looked like stock.

 

Now I need to figure out how to install my Dawson FO sights and get them sighted in.  Based on their directions, I may need to take loctite to the range for when I zero...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Fasthenk65 said:

Tnx! Then I'm not alone on this ūüôā¬†. Had a great Shadow Orange. Sold it since thinking Shadow 2 would be nicer... Sold it. Went to Standard class. Missed production and.. bought another Shadow 2 (stupid me). Today at the club I borrowed a Shadow SP01 and tried it side by side with my Shadow 2. Same groups. Feel of SP01 much more natural. Transition faster with SP01... And for some reason FS recovery better on SP01 (that's with the factory recoil spring on SP01 and standard trigger vs race hammer etc on Shadow 2). Oooo should not have asked. Now I want a Shadow SP01 again. I hate this sport ūüôā¬†Tnx MoRivera, tnx John!

8 hours ago, IHAVEGAS said:

 

There are at least 4 of us then :) . 

 

Not a knock on the S2, just not for me. 

 

I even had a Tactical Sport Blue that I ended up selling, opting instead for this because it just fits me better......

 

Longslide.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If I was starting over. 

Base model SP01. 

CGW goodies. 

Elbow grease. 

Done. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, sometimes it takes spending some time and money to realize that you didn't need to spend so much time and money.

Edited by MoRivera

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys, not sure if my previous post went in the right spot so I’ll put it out here. I have an SP01 shadow Custom. It fails to fire in the middle of a stage. The hammer is cocked back all the way but when I pull the trigger, it fails to fire in the middle of a stage. The hammer is cocked back all the way but when I pull the trigger, it will not fire. I can re-rack the slide  and will still not fire. If I continue to pull the trigger, it sometimes will fire. Any ideas ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
46 minutes ago, Joec08 said:

Hey guys, not sure if my previous post went in the right spot so I’ll put it out here. I have an SP01 shadow Custom. It fails to fire in the middle of a stage. The hammer is cocked back all the way but when I pull the trigger, it fails to fire in the middle of a stage. The hammer is cocked back all the way but when I pull the trigger, it will not fire. I can re-rack the slide  and will still not fire. If I continue to pull the trigger, it sometimes will fire. Any ideas ?

It may be an issue with the disconnector.  Sometimes the 'wings' need to be ground down slightly on the bottom for it to clear the trigger bar so that the single action can break normally.  If you look at this animation below.....

 

gHEtY4j.gif

 

 

You can see how the trigger bar (light blue) kind of tilts at the very end and slips by the lugs (wings) on the green 'hook' attached to the hammer, which is the disconnector.  Sometimes the trigger bar won't clear the lugs, and when this happens, it can feel like the trigger doesn't pull back far enough to drop the hammer.  This is where some custom disconnectors like from Cajun Gun Works have to be fitted, even a slight amount like .008" honed down to clear the trigger bar.  CZ's have varying degrees of play in their sear cages....and that could sometimes require some more fitting of the disconnector.  Did you change any parts after getting the gun, like the manual safeties?

 

Edited by MoRivera

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 Thanks for the info , That seems exactly like what is going on. Thanks again

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks a bunch everyone for the info. I'm contemplating getting into the CZ world from 1911's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great thread!

I'm a 1911 guy, so feels like I am relearning the whole pistol rebuild process now that I am playing with CZ's.

I picked up a Shadow 2.  I dropped in all the recommended CGW parts.

I know I need to tweak a lot more (too much business travel of late), but looking for an obvious answer.

SA works fine, safeties function fine, but DA I need to slightly cock the hammer for it to work.  Else there is no pull on the hammer when pulling the trigger and the hammer is down.

First point to jump on?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

OK guys. 

 

Tell me about the FPB delete. How would the action in my pistol improve? Will the improvement in reset be appreciable considering the upgrades I list below? 

 

I have an SP-01 manual safety model with the following upgraded parts:

  • Short Reset Kit
  • Reach Reduction Kit
  • Reduced Power Trigger Return Spring
  • Floating Trigger Pin
  • Race Hammer - without the adjustable sear¬†(arrives tomorrow)
  • All internals have been smoothed/polished

NOTE: I understand that I either need the pre-B sear or add a spacer to the existing sear in place of the lifter arm.

 

Just gathering information to see if this is something I want to consider. I will probably run the gun a bit with the new hammer before deciding. 

Edited by anonymouscuban

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OK guys. 
 
Tell me about the FPB delete. How would the action in my pistol improve? Will the improvement in reset be appreciable considering the upgrades I list below? 
 
I have an SP-01 manual safety model with the following upgraded parts:
  • Short Reset Kit
  • Reach Reduction Kit
  • Reduced Power Trigger Return Spring
  • Floating Trigger Pin
  • Race Hammer - without the adjustable sear¬†(arrives tomorrow)
  • All internals have been smoothed/polished
NOTE: I understand that I either need the pre-B sear or add a spacer to the existing sear in place of the lifter arm.
 
Just gathering information to see if this is something I want to consider. I will probably run the gun a bit with the new hammer before deciding. 
Your actual reset should be shortened by a mm or so but the static reset position of your trigger will be noticeably reduced.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, himurax13 said:

Your actual reset should be shortened by a mm or so but the static reset position of your trigger will be noticeably reduced.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
 

 

Reset position in SA only or will impact DA?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Reset position in SA only or will impact DA?
The Reach Reduction kit will move the DA static reset point a little further back. The double action pull will Definetly be lighter and smoother than stock.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The Reach Reduction kit will move the DA static reset point a little further back. The double action pull will Definetly be lighter and smoother than stock.

Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk

Ok cool. I have the Reach Reduction kit already installed.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a cz rami must be newer the mag release does not have a screw to take out spring just flat washer and a push pin , pain to get back in, but all aside does this diagram work for the rami?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/18/2019 at 10:55 AM, RGC said:

Great thread!

I'm a 1911 guy, so feels like I am relearning the whole pistol rebuild process now that I am playing with CZ's.

I picked up a Shadow 2.  I dropped in all the recommended CGW parts.

I know I need to tweak a lot more (too much business travel of late), but looking for an obvious answer.

SA works fine, safeties function fine, but DA I need to slightly cock the hammer for it to work.  Else there is no pull on the hammer when pulling the trigger and the hammer is down.

First point to jump on?

 

Anyone able to help with this?

Reached out to CGW, they stated to reset the trigger adjustment screw but thats not it at all.

Sent a video to them of the issue but no response....and I would like to get this resolved...

Not sure if its internal (all internals replaced with CGW goods) or hammer issue...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Anyone able to help with this?
Reached out to CGW, they stated to reset the trigger adjustment screw but thats not it at all.
Sent a video to them of the issue but no response....and I would like to get this resolved...
Not sure if its internal (all internals replaced with CGW goods) or hammer issue...
Can you share the video you sent to them?

If you need help posting the video, loadef up to YouTube and then send me the link in a PM. I can share here.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


√ó
√ó
  • Create New...