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Question on lubed 9mm brass


Jory45acp

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9 hours ago, Joe4d said:

Is there a thumbs up button ? I scratch my head about the whole wet tumble thing.
Jeesh,, pick up off ground, throw in big dillon tumbler with corncob and a bit of some case polish, run over night. Dump in sifter, shake.  My press has a brass tub on bench ,, I grab  a few big handfuls of brass, throw in bin, give a shot of Dillon case lub, stir around, load and shoot.

Some folks just like super shined brass. I certainly do. Sure it all works, but so does a twenty year old car. Why buy a new one every few years? Because some people want to.

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And when you dry clean very little sticking at the expander /powder drop stage. press operates smother. In addition less crimping issues(the brass hardens/becomes more brittle when wet cleaning).It would not surprise me if eventually some who wet clean notice their lead levels go up. From absorbing the liquid through their skin or some other contamination issue.

 

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On 9/26/2020 at 8:42 AM, AHI said:

It would not surprise me if eventually some who wet clean notice their lead levels go up. From absorbing the liquid through their skin or some other contamination issue.


I'm more concerned about breathing the dust from dirty media than splashing myself with a dilute lead citrate solution. My last BLL check was 6 ug/dL and I've changed my reloading practices to reduce lead exposure since then.


https://www.atsdr.cdc.gov/csem/csem.asp?csem=34&po=6

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whataboutism

Edited by belus
to add a relevant Wikipedia article
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First, lube only if needed (all bottleneck cartridges need lube, even if using a Dillon carbide die)

Second, only lube as much as necessary (my RCBS Lube Pad and RCBS Case Lube have worked 100% since I bought them in 1972, and I don't get any lube on the case shoulder or mouth).

Third: Never, ever, worried about residual lube on any case, straightwall or bottleneck. Back when I started reloading, manuals basically said to always remove the case lube if: 1) pressures exceeded 60ksi and 2) the bolt was rear locking. You could get a rear locking bolt to flex enough to lock-up the rifle.

Four: With pistol cases, the only cases I have ever lubed since carbide dies became a thing (about 1975?), are 9x19 (9mmm Luger) cases and, at that, it only happens once or twice a year for unknown reasons (since, by the next day, lube has not been needed again).

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The U.S. Army Marksmanship Unit uses Hornady OneShot a "dry film" lube and it does not need to be removed.

Read the link below.

 

Slick Tricks: Techniques and Tools for Big-Batch Case Lubrication

https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2018/09/slick-tricks-techniques-and-tools-for-big-batch-case-lubrication/

 

Any type "wet" lubes should be removed because it increases bolt thrust.

 

NKNfs2n.jpg

 

l82GT10.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by bigedp51
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On 9/26/2020 at 7:42 AM, AHI said:

.....It would not surprise me if eventually some who wet clean notice their lead levels go up. From absorbing the liquid through their skin or some other contamination issue.

 

I'm just hearing about this now?!?! So used cleaning solution is dangerous? Guess I won't be rinsing brass out while in the tub anymore...although that might explain the voices I've been hearing telling me to go all in on .40cal

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  • 1 year later...

I know this topic is old, but in my experience reloading 9mm brass, I have the most "sticking" issues on the up stroke when the powder funnel is being pulled out of the expanded brass case.  This only really happens with thicker brass such as CBC and WIN head stamps.  But I started lubing my 9mm brass because of this sticking even though I have carbide dies.  So for me, I want to spray a small amount of One Shot inside the top of the case.  Most of the methods described here only address the outside of the case for resizing.  Does anyone else try to get a small amount of lube inside the case and what's your method?  I find standing 500 cases upright before spraying to be a real pain.

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i've been using new starline 38 super brass.  no lube (and removed sizing die).  it was sticking terribly when the case was being pulled down out of the powder die, so the press was jerking and powder was flying out of the cases.  so i did above like i do for used & cleaned brass, spray one shot in a bag and dump in some brass and shake it up.  that seems to get enough in the top of the case so it doesn't stick in the powder (expander) die.  when the finished rounds come out i'll take out a handful at a time and shake them around in a towel to get any excess lube off.  the towel turns black pretty quickly.

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I use the DIY Dillon case lube and don't clean it off.

 

I put a couple sprays in a large plastic bowl from the dollar store, throw in several handfuls of brass, swirl around and let the alcohol evaporate and get to reloading.

 

For rifle I always clean it off after sizing.

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I just started loading myself last year. This is my process, I buy clean brass fairly cheap.

 

Roll size

Spray one shot case lube in large zip lock bag and dump a few handfuls of brass in bag. 

Shake it around till I feel it's all good, 15-30seconds. 

Dump into case feeder. 

Load

Case gauge with hundo

 

I don't see any issues. Pass rate is 99+%. I use the minor 9mm in 3 sig p320s, 2 1911s, and 2 2011s. 

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I'm not loading to major, so my process is pretty simple.  I lube clean brass and then size, deprime, prime, and everything else all in one go on the press.  It's still plenty accurate and I've had no issues.  I do sort out my brass by head stamp.  I find that sorting head stamps is the most efficient place to spend my time to improve consistency/accuracy and reduce issues on the press.

 

Clean brass goes into a shoe box sized container. 

Spray top layer with one shot and let it dry.

Scoop out top layer and put in case feed.

Spray new top layer with oneshot to dry while I'm loading current batch.

Repeat.

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Also a lano+alcohol user here. I use one to two light coats after brass cleaning and don't remove lube after either. It's a little greasy to the touch but my guns never had a problem with them. The way I see it, the lube staying on also helps prevent tarnishing/oxidizing (to a degree) as a way to preserve my brass. Sure carbide dies don't need lube for 9mm but it would also help preserve dies a tad longer in my opinion. I used to load 9mm without lube as well and that wore out a steel die quite quick, just sharing another experience of mine.

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  • 2 months later...

I do not tumble again after sizing, but I do use a towel or an old T-shirt to take some of it off the finished cartridges.  I put each batch of 100 cases in a gallon ziploc and give a 1.5 to 2 second spray of OneShot throughout the bag.  I then close the bag and roll the cases around on a flat surface, then pick up the bag, forcing the cases into one of the corners, and knead them against each other a bit.  After some drying time, I pour them in the case feeder and load them up.  After loading, I spray compressed air into the loading bin while rolling them around to get all the brass flakes out.  Then I put them in a towel or an old T-shirt, folding the ends to make a pouch.  Then I roll them around on a flat surface and knead them with my hands, which removes some of the lube.  They will still have a slight sticky feel, but it does not hurt anything.  I have loaded and fired thousands of 9mm using this method with no issues.

 

Mike

 

Edited by VortecMAX
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Posted this in another thread, but the same applies--

 

Dump cases into a plastic shoebox.  Give them a light spray with One Shot.  Shake the box to mix the cases up some.  Spray again, dump into casefeeder.

 

20 years ago I wondered about removing the lube.  Since the advice then I haven't; major, minor, whatever pistol rounds I'm loading.  Probably up to 400K by now with zero issues.

 

 

 

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On 9/26/2020 at 7:42 AM, AHI said:

And when you dry clean very little sticking at the expander /powder drop stage. press operates smother. In addition less crimping issues(the brass hardens/becomes more brittle when wet cleaning).It would not surprise me if eventually some who wet clean notice their lead levels go up. From absorbing the liquid through their skin or some other contamination issue.

 

I use the Lyman wet tumbler.  When I finish tumbling I pour the toxic water and brass into the sifter under running water.  I wear those thick latex dishwashing gloves and massage the brass to help get all the pins out of the brass.  I find this works much better than just shaking the sifter when you're cleaning large quantities of brass.  My skin never touches the bad water.

 

For all those people who just use One Shot and basically shake or massage their brass in a plastic bag, does that eliminate the sticking when you pull the sizer/powder drop die out of thicker 9mm brass such as CBC or WIN?  I would think very little lube would actually go inside cases this way.

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On 3/13/2022 at 11:52 AM, XrayDoc88 said:

For all those people who just use One Shot and basically shake or massage their brass in a plastic bag, does that eliminate the sticking when you pull the sizer/powder drop die out of thicker 9mm brass such as CBC or WIN?  I would think very little lube would actually go inside cases this way.

It does not eliminate it, but it does help.  I don't think you will ever eliminate it with the CBC cases (or other thicker/harder cases).  Polishing the expander end of the funnel also helps.

 

Mike

 

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12 minutes ago, Sinister4 said:

Brass into tumbler with media and some nu finish, start it, let it run all night, take brass out, shake, into the ol ziplock with one shot, load it , done, looks new when done 

Yes it is that semple. Still don't understand the fascination with wet cleaning brass.

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