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About noylj

  • Rank
    Beyond it All
  • Birthday 10/19/1949

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    Southwest US
  • Interests
    Reloading, shooting, hunting for primers
  • Real Name
    James Lyon

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  1. And, as MikieM said: "You realize, of course, if you measure the case mouth of a factory loaded round you'll have the solution to this dilemma" or, just use the factory round to set the crimp and not bother measuring anything. Just do a "plunk" test. Factory ammo seems to only have enough "crimp" to keep taper of case straight and the case mouth does not contact the bullet hard enough to leave a mark. Years ago I played with crimp and found that it did not make a statistically significant or repeatable difference in accuracy.
  2. I prefer NOT to clean my powder measure, but to let the graphite on some of the powders coat it and lube it.. If you have been successful for thousands of rounds and this is new, I am not sure what the problem could be unless you can tell what you are doing differently? Is the charge bar/metering assembly moving all the way forward and back? No binding or sticking? You can call Dillon and there is a worn part (maybe from cleaning too much?). For general powder measure treatment: When new, do the following: Disassemble and degrease all parts. Wash plastic parts in warm soapy water and let air dry (do not rinse) Degrease metal parts with any good degreaser. I prefer, if still being made, Hornady's One Shot degreaser and dry lube. Do not wipe off the part, let air dry so dry lube remains on parts. Reassemble and ensure the the correct charge bar is being used for the powder weight being thrown. So many have found that their problem was nothing more than the wrong charge bar/metering assembly being used. Fill hopper with graphitized powder (Bullseye, Unique, and others) and cycle all of this powder through the measure. If you don't have or know if you have graphitized powder, buy some powdered graphite and meter it through the measure. When ready to start loading, do the following: Fill hopper with correct powder. Verify. Gently shake the hopper to settle the powder. Throw at least 10 random charges and throw back in hopper. For measure mounted on the press, use a case with spent primer to drop the charge into so press is being cycled and normal vibrations are occurring. Now, adjust the metering assembly to get the target charge weight, still using the case with spent primer and throwing charge, after weighing, back in the hopper. When you get the target weight being dropped, throw 10 more charges in a row to establish weight spread. If too much (+/- 0.2gn is OK, +/- 0.1 gn is great), repeat the shaking of the measure to further settle the powder and repeat the above steps. If you can't get things going, switch to another powder measure (my measure tend to have days when they just won't work, so I switch to another measure and things are great again--I know inanimate objects have no feelings, but it amazes me how often a temperamental powder measure will work great the NEXT day). In desperation, get an aquarium pump or very small vibrator and strap it to the hopper. Finally, forget the whole thing and get an RCBS ChargeMaster, a Lee expander and powder through die, and a Lee funnel that goes in the "powder pour" cap of the die. You can use the remaining graphite powder to dip the case mouth into when you go crazy with case cleaning and find the case is sticking HARD to the expander because you removed the dry lubricant soot.
  3. I have found this ONLY with 9x19. If you start very low, you will find flattened primers. If you work the load up, the primers stop flattening and return to normal. If you exceed max, primers will again flattened, this time indicating pressure problems I have been called names and my technique insulted, but that is what I have seen. Only thought I have is the huge headspace gap with so many 9x19 cases being so short, that the primer actually gets pushed far out of the case with the low pressure not slamming the case head back against the breech as fast and the "reseating" of the primer when the pressure pushes the case head back flattens it. As I said, only seen it with 9x19. Work up your load, sort and use the longest cases, or ignore it. Also, I have found that accuracy really improves if I sort sized 9x19 cases. The longer cases give better accuracy than the short ones. Or, I use a L-SWC and use COL to shorten the head space gap, just like my .45s. If I had a real accurate 9x19, I would trim 9x21 cases to match that gun's headspace...
  4. Well, maybe after-market upgrades weren't. I know this may sound insulting, but did you readjust your dies after the change over? If not, did the after-market stuff mean that the ram isn't going down as much? Are you sure everything is tight?
  5. Sounds like not much more than replacing the knuckle bearing with ball bearings. May be a little nicer, but it is more costly and the 1050 is so smooth to begin with... Should even be able to upgrade 1050s, if there is some real benefit.
  6. John Browning designed a great pistol that is not as sensitive as so many want you to believe. An occasional use of ball ammo will be fine. You have a TARGET gun, for lighter loads. Like the Gold Cup. I have fired thousands of rounds through my Gold Cups with light target and heavy loads without any issue. Added to that, you have a long slide, which adds weight. Slide weight and recoil spring weight and main spring weight need to be balanced, so heavier slide, slightly lighter recoil and mainspring can be used. For details, call STI. You may want to start off with competitive Bullseye loads and work up. With WST, start at 4.0gn and work up. Max is around 4.7-4.9gn
  7. Personally, I throw out any cases that, after sizing and expanding to 0.353", won't hold the bullet tight. Not worth all the effort. Many of you might just find that with lead or plated bullets, you are actually swaging the bullet diameter down. I get about 1-2 out of 500 or so that I toss. 0.003" set back is not enough to worry about. 0.250", like what started this whole issue, is a disaster. Run some factory and see what set back you get.
  8. Please price similar bullets, only real JACKETED, from Precision Delta (tjconevera and RMR should also have real jacketed bullets). I find that ordering 2000+ of PD is usually less than the plated bullets and accuracy is improved quite a bit.
  9. Yet, accuracy at short distances (under 50 yards) is not effected much by velocity variations and Bullseye shooters have been firing very small groups for decades without any issues. Back in my youth, I tried shooting handguns (.45 Auto, 9x19, and .44 Rem Mag) using mixed cases, identical head stamp cases, and identical weight cases and found that even at 50 yards, it just didn't matter and, for all three calibers, my average group size was smallest with the mixed cases (I had no idea what group I was firing until I finished the group). Even my 1 MOA 7mm T/CU didn't change average group size at 100 yards with case changes. When you start shooting 0.5 MOA or less, then start to worry about such issues.
  10. The set-back reported is not an issue. How many times did you cycle the same round? Repeated cycling of a single round into the chamber is a REAL issue, as many cops have found out. More crimp will not help. verify that the case expander opens up the case ID to be 0.001-0.002" smaller than bullet diameter. Next, you can play with COL to find where the rounds will pop up under the extractor without needing to ride the feed ramp.
  11. I prefer a snappy recoil as it returns sights to target faster. The faster sights are back on target, the faster I can continue.
  12. Sizing dies can only size down so far. The sizing dies that size the furthest down the case (having the least bevel on carbide) are Lee and Hornady. Next, the sizing die isn't creating the bulge, it is either NOT able to reach it or it is pushing it down the case. Attached are pictures of a 9mm case where my sizing die pushed the bulge down the case. The only cure I know is to toss the case or use a Lee 9mm Mak FCD to Bulge Bust the cases prior to sizing.
  13. OK, smarty, I have still NEVER seen Winchester Auto Comp on a shelf. If folks don't see it, they can't buy it.
  14. They are all acceptable. If you want to size down as close to the shell plate as possible, buy Lee or Hornady If you want the smoothest sizing, buy Hornady or Redding. When carbide dies first came out, they had almost ZERO chamfer and it was easy if you were in a hurry to crush the case. Best solution I found was to raise the shell plate, screw the sizing die down to just touch the shell plate, lower the ram, put a case in, raise ram and assist as needed to get case in the die, and, with the case in the die, tighten the lock ring down. Other than that, you may have a timing/alignment issue or you simply need the large-mouth Dillon sizing dies... If your rounds/cases won't chamber even after sizing, run a plunk test and find out what the issue is.: Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel (or gage) and rotate it back-and-forth a few times. Remove and inspect the round: 1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long 2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp 3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case 4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit 5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster.
  15. You establish COL using your gun and the specific bullet you are going to load while at the bench before you EVER start to reload. All the COL in a manual REALLY tells you is what COL they tested at. For handgun rounds, longer COL means more powder before hitting max pressure, meaning more gas, meaning more velocity. Per Ramshot (and all other reloading suppliers): “SPECIAL NOTE ON CARTRIDGE OVERALL LENGTH (COL) It is important to note that the SAAMI COL values are for the firearms and ammunition manufacturers industry and must be seen as a guideline only. The individual reloader is free to adjust this dimension to suit their particular firearm-component-weapon combination. This parameter is determined by various dimensions such as 1) magazine length (space), 2) freebore-lead dimensions of the barrel, 3) ogive or profile of the projectile and 4) position of cannelure or crimp groove. • Always begin loading at the minimum "Start Load". • Increase in 2% increments towards the Maximum Load. • Watch for signs of excessive pressure. • Never exceed the Maximum Load.” Note: add to the above that the timing between when the magazine lips release the round and the slide pushes the round into the chamber can be COL sensitive. With 1911s, almost all feeding issues with SWC was solved simply by changing the magazine lips to release the round sooner. So, your COL (OAL) is determined by your barrel and your gun and your magazine and the SPECIFIC bullet your are using (bullets have huge differences in geometry). What worked in a pressure barrel or in my gun has very little to do with what will work in your gun. Load a couple of dummy rounds (no powder and no primer) to the max. COL (OAL) and see if it fits your magazine, feeds in your gun, and chambers in your barrel. Seat the bullet slightly deeper until you achieve all three of these goals. This is the COL (OAL) for you in your gun with that make of bullet.
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