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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About belus

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    Sees Sights
  • Birthday 06/02/1984

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    Houston, TX
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    I also ride my motorcycle long distances and dance argentine tango.
  • Real Name
    Bob Zeller

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  1. The 550 will load 338 WM and other cases up to ~2.8". If you don't have a 550 to compliment your 1050 I would seriously consider it. Those two presses work very well together.
  2. For a couple years I used a 650 in a 550 sqft apartment. The noise wasn't bad. That was a weird place as it also had a two car garage where I could keep the brass tumbling away from my living space (and three motorcycles). I've since gotten married and moved to a larger house. A rigid bench is important as you operate it. I used a little 24"x24" MDF workbench (like Harbor Freight's SKU 46725) which barely worked. Put a couple thousand bullets on the bottom and it helps a little. The 1100 can be automated which puts it on a rigid base and compensates for bench limitations. I would not use a folding leaf table. However I think the most important thing is containing spent primers. I'm glad to hear you're wet tumbling. Get any of the e-bay spent primer cup replacements to keep the press cleaner. The 650 I have will frequently throw primers around, but my 1050 deprimes more consistently and gently. The 750 and 1100 both have three die positions after the powder drop, so there aren't as many extra positions as you anticipate. Using the a bullet feeder is the same on either: you lose your powder check die OR you seat/crimp in the same station. With a bullet feeder on the 750 all your production is on the right hand side of the press which will keep it more compact. The 1100 does everything on the left side. If I were in your situation I would get the 1100 and load in 2-3000 round batches. The 1100 is easier on your arm than the 750 and longer sessions are easier. Then you can pack it away in a closet for a couple months. Maybe mount the 1100 to a heavy plank or felt lined steel plate and then clamp that to a counter for rigidity.
  3. Casefeeder is a must so I assume you got that. I also like the strong mount with bullet tray and roller handle. I don't think the primer feed stop is relevant to the 750 priming system. The 650 would continue feeding primers even if they weren't used. Regarding e-bay mods, the ones I liked best are the spent primer catch tube and roller index cam. I tried the low-mass index ball and didn't like it.
  4. They're generally blems if I remember correctly. I have a .40 SS project on a Foster frame that's been languishing. There's a 0.020" divot/flake missing from the front strap that made them sell it as a discount. Since I really like the DS Perman grips on my SS it'll get covered up anyways.
  5. Briley Versatility in whatever caliber I find it, preferably in .40 though. Or if anyone posts one of Don Golembieski's guns for sale.
  6. RCBS and Hornady both have a case activated powder measure that don't use a failsafe rod. I don't use either, but I've heard of people preferring them and putting them on their Dillons. They would work easily in station 3. I believe there's a early version of Dillon's measure that was case activated and spring return. It appeared sometime between the failsafe measure and the fully manual 450 powder drop. You can fit the spring return powder bar to the current powder measure and just leave the fail safe rod off. I don't know how critical the failsafe rod is - it probably depends on the powder. eta: Not my picture, but it shows the case activated spring return Dillon powder measure on a 450.
  7. Kimber (an others?) would build their 9mm guns in a .40 slide. I have a customized Springfield 9mm which had its breechface opened up slightly to shoot .40 also. You might get away with simply having a second barrel and extractor fit. That'd run you 350-400, I imagine.
  8. I recently had to file the inside of the primer tube stand on my 550. I bought it used and the previous owner had over tightened the screws such that the soft aluminum bulged slightly into the channel of the primer slide. The black teflon coated track that the slide runs on was also slightly bent which held up the slide on its path forward. Flattening the track got everything working smoothly again. If it's still a struggle you might have a weak return spring.
  9. So what's resisting the breechface moving backwards as the case head pushes against it? What are your opposing reactions? You've only thought of half of it. On a tilting barrel gun it's the steel in the slide between the locking lug(s) and the breechface. If your gun is fit together well, like many custom 2011's, there's very little room for the breechface to move before the locking lug(s) engage. If it's not put together as tightly, like many Glocks, there's a slight gap and the slide accelerates for a moment before the locking lug(s) engage. Glocks with a steady diet of major loads occasionally crack their slide in the lower right corner of the ejection port under the extractor because of this battering. On the Alien the breechface is held forward by gas pressure on a piston like the HK P7/PSP series of pistols. This piston is connected somehow to the front of the slide to apply the necessary forward pressure. I don't know how it's fit nor what tolerances there might be nor how suitable this design is to extra pressure. It's very different from all the various Browning iterations currently used in the game though.
  10. I compete with a pair of these. They were in my hands [used] for about $800 each. It's the "CZ 75 Shadow" aka Short Dust Cover Shadow. The no longer offered CZ Custom model is described here: https://cz-usa.com/product/cz-75-shadow-tac-ii-9mm-cz-custom/ The same gun with different sights is listed on GunBroker here: https://www.gunbroker.com/item/855799453
  11. If I've driven to the match I use a Creedmore Sports shooting stool with the Ray-Vin cart attachments. I really like the big solid wheels. If I ridden then it's just a Shooter's Connection zippered inner bag (Item SC-420) because it fits conveniently in the motorcycle luggage. I can get two guns, 500 rds, a timer, spare parts kit, muffs, and eight mags in that little bag. It's my workhorse. The stool has a small beach umbrella on it and mostly carries snacks and water. I'll be mounting a long selfie stick to hold a go-pro to it soon too. https://imgur.com/a/50L5MmE
  12. Shoot IDPA's carry optics or Steel Challenge Open. I wouldn't want this division in USPSA.
  13. I think the 550 is the workhorse of the Dillon line, especially if you want to reload multiple calibers in <400 round batches, or if you want to reload rifle rounds. Between my single stage, 550, 650, and 1050; the 550 would be the last to go. I love its simplicity and the rhythm using both hands to load is pretty natural. I don't find it much slower than the 650/750 once all the ergonomic additions are accounted for. The 650/750 needs a case feeder and really shines once you add a bullet feeder. But at that point caliber conversions get really pricey and I think it'd make more sense to jump to the full 1050/1100 experience. The 550 and 1050/1100 is a really complimentary setup, so much so that I'm not sure why I'm keeping the 650 around.
  14. I think these are all good points and observations. AFAIK the hypothetical SS shooter who uses .40 to be able to declare Major/Minor at the match isn't bringing two different loads with him. He's just shooting 8/10rd of Major PF ammo. I primarily shoot Production because it's the more popular local division. I did pick up a .40 SS for playing with Major scoring and chose .40 because I only have to stock one size primer. Level 1 and 2 stages seem to be built by Production aware designers and it's pretty natural to break down a stage for 10 rounds. In SS Minor I shoot a light rail tri-topped gun or a standard thin frame government slide gun. I can't tell the difference between them. I think the gamer SS guns, if such things exist, are the 5.4" variety.
  15. belus

    SP01 Shadow or Shadow 2

    Just an FYI this isn't a productive way to think of two shots in competition. It could just be semantics, but you'll never hear this term in a match because it's associated with aiming once and pulling the trigger twice. It's important to know where the sights were aligned each time the gun fires. Your ability to grip the gun and which recoil spring you use will make a larger difference in how the gun behaves than the weight. And we frequently shoot multiple targets that aren't directly in-front of you. How quickly you can put two holes in one target means very little in the grand scheme of a match. Next time you're at the store swing the gun from left 45deg to right 45deg and see how you like that dynamic. It's more indicative of the speed you can shoot a given gun for this game than how fast you can pull the trigger. You can see more discussion of this here:
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