XrayDoc88

Thank you for that update. I have held off pulling the trigger on this press because of the inconsistent priming issues. Can anyone else confirm that the improved primer disc is truly working well?

I use the Lyman wet tumbler. When I finish tumbling I pour the toxic water and brass into the sifter under running water. I wear those thick latex dishwashing gloves and massage the brass to help get all the pins out of the brass. I find this works much better than just shaking the sifter when you're cleaning large quantities of brass. My skin never touches the bad water. For all those people who just use One Shot and basically shake or massage their brass in a plastic bag, does that eliminate the sticking when you pull the sizer/powder drop die out of thicker 9mm brass such as CBC or WIN? I would think very little lube would actually go inside cases this way.

Thanks Rich406. What happens when a primer jams and you're automated? Are there any automatic shutoffs or do you have to watch every reload and quickly smash the off switch?

Good point! I meant several thousand rounds!

Are there any other owners of the Apex 10 out there that have truly solved the priming issues? I want to be able to reload several hundreds of rounds without a primer jamming the system.

Has everyone else been able to solve their priming problems with this new press? I want one, but don't think the priming process should be so sensitive that it fails frequently. I wish Mark 7 would just scrap this priming system and redesign.

I know this topic is old, but in my experience reloading 9mm brass, I have the most "sticking" issues on the up stroke when the powder funnel is being pulled out of the expanded brass case. This only really happens with thicker brass such as CBC and WIN head stamps. But I started lubing my 9mm brass because of this sticking even though I have carbide dies. So for me, I want to spray a small amount of One Shot inside the top of the case. Most of the methods described here only address the outside of the case for resizing. Does anyone else try to get a small amount of lube inside the case and what's your method? I find standing 500 cases upright before spraying to be a real pain.

Thanks for both responses. I have since purchased several Lancer 300 BLK mags and will get a chance to try them next week! They've been out of stock for a long time.

To clarify, the Dillon Super 1050 or RL 1100 have dedicated swage stations, but on a XL 750 my only swage option would be to use the primer station and an aftermarket swager? Disassembling the primer station each time sounds like a pain. Is the manual Dillon super swager 600 any good? I noticed Dillon also sells a dedicated "case prep" press, the CP 2000. Has anyone spent the money for that option?

I have Sheridan cutaway gauges for 9mm and 40 S&W reloading. They're very nice. My .223 and 300 BLK reloading would be for bulk range shooting, not precision. When you use the Dillon electric case trimmer, do you have to then manually champfer/debur? Also, so you deprime and resize your brass on a progressive before it's clean? I don't like the idea of dumping dirty brass into the case feeder.

I guess when picking up range .223 brass you never know what you're getting. But what if you only reload your civilian store bought .223 ammo? Are you likely going to need a swage step? I don't think I have any military brass with crimped primer pockets. I currently deprime my pistol brass with a hand held Lee press while watching TV. I then wet tumble the brass shiny clean. Would this be a reasonable sequence to use when loading .223 and 300 BLK? 1. Deprime while watching the hockey game. 2. Wet tumble clean. 3. Lube and resize on the Forster. 4. Measure case length. Trim, debur as necessary. 5. Dump cases in Dillon case feeder. 6. Leave station 1 empty. 7. Prime, powder, seat bullet on Dillon. Or should there be another definite swage step, cleaning step or additional lube step inserted above? And I thought 9mm brass reloading had some quirks.

How about before sizing? I was hoping to just fill the case feeder once.

Ahh, case trimming and deburring? Can you do that after cleaning, but before resizing and primer seating?

Is this an additional step for bolt gun calibers or is full sizing not needed?

So is a neck resizing die never used if you first use a full size resizing die? I guess if the crimp stage is optional with rifle cases, the Dillon XL-750 does have enough holes for both a full size and neck resizing die?