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bigedp51

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About bigedp51

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    Ed Horton

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  1. A resized case fired in a semi-auto should be .003 to .005 smaller in diameter than its fired diameter. This allows the case body to spring back from the chamber walls and extract reliably. Also the case shoulder should be bumped back .003 to .006, this allows the bolt to rotate freely because the rear of the case is not pushing on the bolt face. Try using a small base die that reduces the case body diameter more if your problem is not related to the amount of shoulder bump. Below examples of Forster .308/7.62 dies, and dies and chambers vary in size and Lake City cases are made of harder brass and can spring back more after sizing. And you can reduce the amount of brass spring back by pausing at the top of the ram stroke for 4 or 5 seconds using a standard die. I buy once fired Lake City 5.56 and 7.62 brass and size them with a small base die to return the cases to SAAMI minimum dimensions for the first firing in my chamber.
  2. A Lee or EGW undersized die will size the case .002 to .003 smaller in diameter than a standard sizing die. These type dies are for cases fired many times where the brass gets hard and springs back more after sizing. Meaning the undersize dies increase bullet grip by sizing the case smaller in diameter. If you want to use a undersize die I suggest using a Lyman type "M" expander that helps to center the bullet in the case. Below step B expands the case mouth slightly larger than bullet diameter and normally you can start the bullet into the case with just your fingers. If your bullets are larger than step B you can flare the case mouth on step C that is normally used with over sized cast bullets. And your seater plug should also help center the bullet by not allowing the bullet to start tilted into the case. Meaning the seater plug should be a good fit for your bullet shape and many die manufactures will make custom seater plugs for your shape bullet. Below on the left a case that just has the case mouth flared and the bullet is tilted. In the center is a case expanded with the type "M" expander and the bullet is centered and started straight into the case. Below the Lyman patent expired and Redding now makes type "M" expanders, I have their TiN coated expander for my .40 S&W. Below a Lyman type "M" expander for the .223/5.56, this type expander helps center the bullet and greatly reduces bullet runout during seating. NOTE, the case mouth springs back after expanding on the .226 section to slightly bigger than bullet diameter. And this still allows the bullet to be started by hand without any bullet tilting during seating.
  3. Small pistol primer cups can be from .017 to .020 in thickness, and small rifle primers have a cup thickness of .020 to .025. Below is a very good link on primers and their applications. CHOOSING THE RIGHT PRIMER - A PRIMER ON PRIMERS http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=56422.0
  4. I use a Lee factory crimp die with the carbide ring in its base as the push through die. And then size the case with a Lee under size die. I have never heard of using the Lee U die as a push through die to remove any bulge in the base of the case. I think the carbide ring in the Lee U die is a smaller diameter than the Lee factory crimp die and may be causing your gauge problem.
  5. Case gauges vary in diameter and may be larger than your chamber. I do not have any pistol case gauge photos but below is a Dillon and JP Enterprise .308 gauges. Below a fired case in the Dillon .308 gauge. And below the same fired case in the JP Enterprise gauge that is smaller diameter. Bottom line, there is a reason why they tell you your barrel is your best gauge. Most problems are caused by varying case length with the longer cases bulging below the crimp. The Lee factory crimp die with the carbide ring in its base is nothing more than a cheat for people who do not trim their cases. (I know, who trims pistol cases) But the longer cases that bulge below the crimp have the bulge sized back down by the carbide ring in the FCD. This vary same die is used for the Lee Bulge Buster kits.
  6. Another quick note, the patent for the Lyman type "M" expander expired and Redding now makes dies with the same type expander. The Redding Premium Expander die contains the unique Redding expander plug now coated in TiN, Titanium Nitride for added surface hardness, lubricity and durability. The TiN coating will also reduce brass build up on the expander as well, an important improvement for high volume reloaders. What makes the Redding Expander unique is the series of processes it provides as it travels into the case itself. First a radius on its base eases entry into the case mouth. Next a parallel expander section expands and true’s the case internally to create a perfect bearing surface for the bullet as it is seated. This also adds a more uniform bullet pull and start pressure as well. Next is a small step, to properly align the bullet with the centerline of the cartridge case. This positions the bullet for proper contact with the seating micrometer, adding uniformity during actual seating process. Lastly, a flare is the final step on the Redding expander plug to further open the case mouth when using cast bullets so that they do not shave lead during the seating process.
  7. I agree 100% on using the Lyman type "M" expander dies for straight inline seating. The Lyman type "M" expander die insures straight inline bullet seating. And after looking at the video and the chewed up lock rings I advise using soft jawed pliers. Also wet tumbling may have peened the case mouth and the rolled over edge of the case mouth caused the scraping.
  8. My guess is the primers are not seated properly with the anvil resting on the bottom of the primer pocket. The first time the firing pin hits the primer the primer is being seated deep enough to fire the second time. Below the primer should be seated with a slight primer crush with the anvil resting on the base of the primer pocket.
  9. The vast majority of pistol shooters do not trim their cases and the longer cases may still bulge below the crimp The Lee factory crimp die with the carbide ring in its base is a cheat for those people who do not trim their cases. (99.99999% of sane reloaders) If the case bulges below the crimp the carbide ring sizes the bulge back to normal diameter. The only problem is with cast oversized bullets the carbide ring may also size the bullet smaller depending on case thickness.
  10. Read Wobbly's posts at the link below, this applies to any pistol. How to determine Max OAL for a CZ Pistol https://czfirearms.us/index.php?topic=34225.0
  11. Your die might not be reducing the case body diameter enough, or you have a tight chamber. I would try a Lee undersized die that reduces the case diameter .002 to .003 more than a standard die. The older cases become work hardened and spring back more after sizing. And range pickup brass fired in larger chambers can also cause problems.
  12. Hornady One Shot instructions tell you to make sure the inside of rifle case necks are sprayed with One Shot to ease expanding the necks. And as stated in RJH posting above One Shot is a dry film lube and does not need to be removed from the case. To me the main point of using Hornady One Shot is it removes a step in the reloading process and the cases do not have to be tumbled to remove the lube. I put my pistol cases in a large zip lock bag then give it a shot of One Shot and then squeeze the bag and work the brass around. I then dump the cases on to a flat tray to dry and then size.
  13. Seat the bullets in one operation and crimp in a second operation and this will prevent the crimp bulge. And a Lyman type "M" expander will help seat the bullets straighter and help prevent removing the bullet coating. And a taper crimp is to just remove the case mouth belling and streamline the case mouth for feeding. Below a seated bullet before applying a taper crimp. Below the case after applying the taper crimp.
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