Ryan67

Friend of mine did this a couple weeks ago, took the finish right off the frame. Could be too good of a cleaner or could be poor finish, but now it needs cerakote

Once zeroed I never had any accuracy issues, would have to look at a ballistic calculator to see how far back before it would actually matter. I changed it just for my sanity.

I have a Cheely open gun on a standard frame and a Honcho on a PT frame (obviously) when I switched my cheely mount over to the Honcho for the Romeo XL it was off-center. I then bought the PT mount and it's now centered. What I'm getting at is you can probably use a PT optic mount and it will be relatively centered on the XWF frame but I can't guarantee it. Or you can have the Cheely mount machined.

Interesting. Did you measure the diameter? Was it over sized or anything? I haven't had any issues with mine.

No problem. I think they are one of the best options under 1k.

You can get the Govt model from GP arms with a bushing barrel

Some have accuracy issues like noted above but I use a lee FCD on all pistol rounds and have never had an issue. It will take the flare out no problems.

I just use the SSI powder funnel that's DLC coated and seems to do a better job than the Mr Bullet feeder version. Doesn't stick but I don't use SS pins while wet tumbling. Leaves a good flare where the bullet sits right in there and is stable. I prefer to keep the swage hold down actually holding down the brass in the shell plate.

If it works for you and you like your system that's all that matters.

That seems excessive. I just got into the autodrive game but am currently single pass pistol 2 pass rifle and get extremely consistent ammo. If it takes more than 2 passes I'd take a step back and rethink things.

Have had both, sold the s1050 and would choose 1100 again unless it doesn't meet your length requirements. The 1100 is noticeably more smooth.

I've have loaded and shot ammo out to 1k with a 550 and a 750. Measuring and dropping powder by hand similar to the fclassjohn video. Works great if you know how to get it done. The Dillons are awesome and the modifications are cheap. Then you can load ammo in a quarter of the time as guys on single stages. I don't shoot f class and have no desire to but I do know guys who process brass for competing pretty high up in fclass on a automated 750. Then you just dump powder and seat.

550 is definitely a great press but I'd go with the 750. Auto indexing is just too good to pass up and no way I'd want to load pistol rounds in bulk on a 550. If you have to wait to get the case feeder for your budget I'd still get the 750. Then down the line add a bullet feeder and you'll wonder how you ever did without.

Did you run any open major guys? I love my electronic ears (peltor comtacs with gel cups) but have never tried any electric inners.

Lots of good ideas here. I'd like to try an MRH, saving $40 on a pad seems like a plus.

I have put a safariland 014 on a DAA belt which looks like the same hanger as the USPSA kit. You have to push the in on the bars to get the screws started but it worked fine for me. Start the bottom screws but leave them loose then put in the top and cinch them all down.

I have a homemade ratchet belt and wouldn't use anything but a ratchet. M2 ratchet on your choice of belt cut to fit.

Knock on wood my Romeo 3xl has been great.

I've ran some blues because everyone else had good luck with them and I liked them in minor. No issues with leading or accuracy but haven't ran that many, probably less than 1k between two guns.

I run 1.165 with multiple different companies 124/125's

That makes sense I see what you're saying now. I don't load 40 on a 1050/1100 so don't know how deep the hold down expands. If you don't want to change your seating/crimp setup I would either loosen both the swage rod and remove hold down or get a thinner hold down rod like suggested that doesn't flare. 40 shouldn't be crimped so doesn't need the swage if you wanted to just forgo that step though.

Anything done on by the small bell on station 3 should be pushed backed into place by your crimp die. I use a cutaway case to set my swage die up and have no problems with either a Dillon or my preference of the Lee factory crimp passing a hundo gauge every time. Make sure your crimp die is set properly.

Glock 45 with an rmr or a S&W 442 for low profile.

How would you compare the two? If buying again at equal prices would you go apex again? I have quite a few caliber conversions for 1050/1100 otherwise I might have been tempted to try an Apex.

The SSI alpha powder drop could help with your issue. A little better quality than the standard bullet feeder drop and coated for slick surface and long life so it doesn't pop when releasing.