BoyGlock

How Far Do You Zero Your AR in 3 Gun?

33 posts in this topic

Starting to learn 3 gunning. Rifle targets are usually in 50-100y but could not discount possibilities of rare 150y and beyond. Ammo is 55 grains fmj .223. How far should be the first point of intersection of poi and poa? Need not be very detailed just a general or rule of thumb guidelines. Thanks

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If you're always gonna be inside of 250 yards I'd probably go with a 50 yard zero. Keeps poi pretty close to poa from 3-250 yards

Obviously your specific load and barrel combo will be a little different but the below pic gives some generic info

8650ee2f896023f4915c921d51ce55cf.png

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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200y with my 60 grain load  on at 50y not more than two inches high or low 0 to 250y.

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200 yard zero for me as that is what is suggested by the manufacturer of my optic with a BDC reticle.

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200 meter zero for me. Way more dependable then a 50/55/60/65/70/75 zero. And if I have a stage with lots of 100 meter targets I'll use my turret to drop about 1.5 MOA to get a temporary 100 meter zero. If the stage has targets beyond 110 or in the 25-75 range I'll keep the 200 zero.

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200 yard zero here as well.  Know your POI from 1-500 or more and write it down somewhere for stage planning.  I know the feeling of showing up to a match and seeing 450 yard targets when I'd never shot the gun past 200.  Not fun to tank a match on the last stage after shooting well all day.

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Thanks guys. Zeroed my AR at 50y. My range is very limited so I cant confirm its poi at 150+. 

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linked to Travis Haley on zeroing the carbine--changed my way of zeroing.  BUT--you must confirm at distance.

                                                                        :cheers:

 

 

 

http://weaponsman.com/?p=36965

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If you use a 50/200 yd zero, confirm it at 150 when you can, should be 1.5 inch high at 150.

jj

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Really depends on your optic and what reticle you have. Like the Vortex Strike eagle requires a 50 yard zero fort the BDC lines to match up

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might as well join this post. just acquired a Swarvo Z8i1-8 x24, the way I understand it, the scope should be zeroed at its highest magnification which 8x inorder for the reticle to work best. . in the package ( box) it came with a sample of bullet drops chart with different bullets weight and ammo brands together with velocities. However the chart examples are base on a 100yard zero with  6X magnification and not on the 8X . Did I missed something here. not a scope pro here, so your advice is much welcome. thanks

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1 hour ago, ffgats said:

might as well join this post. just acquired a Swarvo Z8i1-8 x24, the way I understand it, the scope should be zeroed at its highest magnification which 8x inorder for the reticle to work best. . in the package ( box) it came with a sample of bullet drops chart with different bullets weight and ammo brands together with velocities. However the chart examples are base on a 100yard zero with  6X magnification and not on the 8X . Did I missed something here. not a scope pro here, so your advice is much welcome. thanks

 

 With the 8Zi and the 6Zi with the BRT reticle, I don't use the pre printed bullet drops as my velocities are different. Go to Swaro's website and use the Ballistic Program enter your info and I have found it to be right on.

 

 I'm guessing they are using the chart examples for the Z6i in the Z8i, I'll check both later and see if they are the same. I didn't even bother to look, but zero'ing on 8x would be correct.

 For me, I use a 200yd zero., know my offset and am able to hold on any target you will find in 3gun out to 200.

Edited by actionshooter

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21 hours ago, actionshooter said:

 

 With the 8Zi and the 6Zi with the BRT reticle, I don't use the pre printed bullet drops as my velocities are different. Go to Swaro's website and use the Ballistic Program enter your info and I have found it to be right on.

 

 I'm guessing they are using the chart examples for the Z6i in the Z8i, I'll check both later and see if they are the same. I didn't even bother to look, but zero'ing on 8x would be correct.

 For me, I use a 200yd zero., know my offset and am able to hold on any target you will find in 3gun out to 200.

thanks for the info.

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Yesterday it was zeroed 4" left at 50 yards. 

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My Steiner 308 BDC is zeroed 2 inches high at 200 and my Vortex 223 1-6 is zeroed at 200 . I've shot them at every distance out to 450 and they both do the exact some thing. Except the Steiner is 4 inches high at 100  Not a big deal because at Raton they don't shoot that close anyway.

Makes switching guns easy.  

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It is usually best to run an "absolute zero", but you will run the risk of trigger freeze. (as pointed out in another thread on this same subject)

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300 yards for me.  Past 250-300 is when I have to start paying attention and remembering holdovers at 300 is one too many things for me.

Edited by Tom Freeman

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On ‎2‎/‎24‎/‎2017 at 1:01 AM, kurtm said:

It is usually best to run an "absolute zero", but you will run the risk of trigger freeze. (as pointed out in another thread on this same subject)

No one seems to have caught it.                  :bow:

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I zero everything (CF rifle wise) at 1.5" high at 100yds.  This has worked well - for me - for the last 60 years or so.  Interesting that it matches the diagram in post 2 above.

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7 hours ago, 1chota said:

No one seems to have caught it.                  :bow:

I just groan on Kurt's replies like this. Otherwise it just encourages him. :lol:

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Well....DAN....I like my Absolute with a twist......and pretty damn cold! ;)

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At minus 273C/459F, you may need an insulated glass. Don't alcohol even freeze before that?

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20 hours ago, kurtm said:

Well....DAN....I like my Absolute with a twist......and pretty damn cold! ;)

I'll try to oblige that next match we shoot at together. :cheers:

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On 2/24/2017 at 3:01 AM, kurtm said:

It is usually best to run an "absolute zero", but you will run the risk of trigger freeze. (as pointed out in another thread on this same subject)

 

So zero at 459.6 yards?

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