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About shooterDrew

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    Sees Sights Lift

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    Lafayette, IN
  • Interests
    USPSA - and reloading only as much as I need to for lots of USPSA shooting!
  • Real Name
    Andrew Heath

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  1. shooterDrew

    Racker ?

    Depending on your grip low rackers on the left side (if you’re right handed) can interfere with gripping the gun, and potentially your strong hand thumb when the gun cycles. I have a STI dvc and my racker is swapable, so i put it on the right side to avoid ripping my thumbnail off. I would prefer it to be on the left side, but the one that came with the gun sits too low and I haven’t paid to change it out with something that’s angled higher. That’s why you see some rackers designed with a bend backwards and up. To move it back away from the support hand and up away from the strong hand thumb. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  2. I’ve got this kit in an STI Edge. It’s excellent. I’ve also got a Nowlin Arms kit in a custom build and it’s very solid as well. Nowlin has zero pre travel and a good break. It’s heavier than the Cylinder and Slide kit, but very good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  3. AmeriGlo GL-436 Hackathorn Sight Set for Glock 42/43, Green/Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XP546FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YpLBDb2GFHZQ3 Ameriglo makes excellent sights that are very affordable. I have these on several glocks. Blacked out rear and tritium dot with bright orange on the front post. And only $56 shipped. Tough to beat. Otherwise if you’re not looking for tritium and want fiber front check out frank proctors sight set. Same black rear with a fiber front sight. Those are solid as well. https://frankproctorperformancegear.com/frank-proctor-y-notch-glock-42-43-48-fiber-optic-sight-set/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  4. Yea mostly limited. Shot some production with the LTT.. it’s not quite as good of a production gun as the shadow 2 or Stock 2, in my eyes.. but it’s a great gun and one that I’ve carried a little as well- which is something I would never do with the cz or stock2 (due to bulk). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  5. I’d say depends on what you’re gonna do with it. If it’s for competition go for the 92x and added weight benefits. If it’s for carry go for the LTT. I have an LTT and it’s a great gun. But if it was only gonna be a USPSA gun I’d rather have gone with the 92x. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  6. Good looking gun. For thinner grips check out Lok or VZ. Langdon tactical has some thin (VZ) grips with good texture on their website for $69. The thin grips definitely make a difference, I much prefer them to the factory width. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. I have used them a pretty good amount. They’re my favorite magazine for single stack. I went with the mags with the anti friction coating and had great luck. When I saw the price tag on them I was also skeptical but they proved to be 100% solid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  8. 10lbs hammer spring seems VERY light. I want to say 15-17 is the norm for those running light springs. I’d be pretty worried about getting constant light strikes at that weight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. I loaded a few different types of coated for an accushadow. I was at 1.08-1.09 and they were good to go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  10. If your other load is ultra reliable then I don’t see why you would want to change it. My guns have seemed to prefer long loaded ammo. I assume this is due to the original design dimensions of the 1911 being built around the .45acp and it’s longer overall length. So getting closer to that OAL will help avoid some feeding issues associated with trying to force a shorter length load to work in that system. My gun really likes rounds around 1.19-1.2”. When I run factory ammo I can almost feel the rounds chunking into the feed ramp and chamber. They usually run OK... I can probably get thru a mag without problem but FTFeed malfunctions are common- and the gun just doesn’t feel smooth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. Easy place to start is to go with some coated lead, accurate and cheap. Go to SNS casting or blue bullets and order a case of 124gr rn. Check the 9mm reloading threads for load data and give it hell. Some people like to load 135s, 147s or even some 160s. I’m a 2 division GM and about 93% in production, that being said for a frame of reference on experience, I’ve shot a boat load of various weights and to be honest there’s very little difference, esp if you’re just getting started. I started out shooting heavier weights and ultimately migrated to 124gr because I got more bullets per case- but even there the per bullet cost is pretty much the same. Don’t over think it. There’s a TON of stuff that will impact your score more than minuscule differences in 9 minor loads. Your recoil spring weight being appropriate will probably be more important than what bullet weight you choose. If you’re set on trying a bunch of different bullet weights I am pretty sure most of the coated bullet companies offer sample packs with various options included. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  12. To get ultimate low you could go slide mounted. Go with the new trijicon optic that looks to have a big window with the same low body as the RMR. Can’t get lower than irons.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  13. Totally agree Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  14. Got some rounds thru it. Very few, but enough to get a feel for the gun. The stock trigger is no where near a tuned CZ... not surprising. It’s not too bad tho. I don’t have a gauge but I’d guess it in the 8-9lbs DA /4 SA range? Compared to a stock CZ that’s very solid. Thru a random turn of fate I also got my hands on one that’s been tricked out with the LTT trigger job- and an 11lbs hammer spring. Now that one is pretty impressive. While still not quite as smooth as the tuned CZ, it’s a great trigger and damn close. I really only think the difference would be noticeable when doing the “holy s#!t this trigger is light/smooth/good” slow dryfire routine. Much like the difference between the 8.5 and 11.5 hammer spring I used to run in my CZ accushadow. Sure the 8.5 made for an unbelievably light DA, but there was zero benefit on the timer and added risk of light strikes. I’ve only shot a handful of rounds thru the light LTT, but I purposefully included various types of factory ammo, even with the light hammer spring it did not have any light strikes. I’ll keep an eye on that and as soon as one pops up I’ll bump the hammer spring up a pound. I’ve got a 12lbs Wilson available that notes on the packaging it will reliably set off any domestically produced primers... I doubt I’ll be shooting any Russian stuff so that sounds good to me l, also LTT claims the 13lbs spring will run 100% of primers. So worst case I bump it up a couple and end up in the 6-7lbs DA range. I guess one thing of note between the beretta and CZ: when the CZ DA gets down in the 6lbs range the SA drops down around 2lbs and the short reset on the SA is great.. I like that. It seems the beretta doesn’t get much below 3lbs if at all and the reset isn’t as short. I’d have to guess due to the FPB? I’m not a gunsmith so I’m just guessing. Either way the trigger trophy goes to the CZ, but not my too much. I’m definitely digging the beretta and gonna give it a run for a while. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  15. I finally bit the bullet. I had one in the “cart” about 50x and never pulled the trigger till a couple days ago when I found them on sale. $859 shipped- thought that was a good deal since they’re 1000 from LTT website. But now I’ll have to add the trigger job in a bag. I’m a CZ guy too, and skeptical that the beretta can be worked as well as the cz, hopefully it surprise me! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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