Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

shooterDrew

Classifieds
  • Content Count

    451
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About shooterDrew

  • Rank
    Sees Sights Lift

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    drew_heath@hotmail.com
  • Yahoo
    ad.heath@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lafayette, IN
  • Interests
    USPSA - and reloading only as much as I need to for lots of USPSA shooting!
  • Real Name
    Andrew Heath

Recent Profile Visitors

1,428 profile views
  1. https://www.nowlinarms.com/product/pro-match-action-kit/ Nowlin pro match action kit dropped in and has excellent clean break and very good reset. Right around 3lbs. Awesome trigger. If you shoot in Indiana you’re welcome to test drive mine! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  2. shooterDrew

    1911 Ignition Kit for Competition?

    I dropped a Cylinder and Slide ultra match kit into an STI edge. It’s listed as 3.5 lbs but is definitely closer to 2. Excellent crisp break but not great reset. I also have a drop in pro-match kit from Nowlin. The Nowlin is a hair heavier, probably close to 3, but has less overall movement and much better reset. Of the two I’d go Nowlin if I was buying again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  3. shooterDrew

    2011/1911 3lb competiton trigger???

    With a trigger that light I would not recommend touching it till you want it to go off! Haha. As far as weight goes I would LOVE to have a 1.5lbs trigger that I trusted to be reliable. I haven’t found one yet unfortunately. I’m sure they’re out there. I would agree with above that there’s no advantage to going heavier. But I don’t think there’s a real noticeable disadvantage on a stage either. I played with breaking 2 lbs last year on my limited gun and had hammer follow issues all year. This year I had a custom gun built and it’s got a 2.5-3lbs trigger in it and I’m loving it. I would be thrilled to have the same trust in it and get it tuned down to 1-1.5 but after last season that ain’t happening. Truth be told I actually made GM in Limited shooting a borrowed, stock, STI DVC (while my gun was getting worked on) and the only major match I’ve ever won high overall I was shooting the same stock DVC.... it definitely didn’t have a 1lbs trigger. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  4. shooterDrew

    Deltapoint or RMR

    This^^^^ I also own both and use them the same way as mentioned above. Totally agree. I love the deltapoint for my open gun. I love the RMR for my edc Glock 19. They each fill that role well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  5. shooterDrew

    Red dot sights and co-witnessing

    If you have no experience with a red dot sight or how to operate or zero a dot, it really isn’t that hard. First, set up a USPSA sized target and put a paster on the white side in the center of the target. After your dot‘s been mounted but before you make any adjustments I would recommend the following. Start by firing one shot at 5 yards holding the dot on the paster and being careful to make the shot as accurate as possible. If the impact is within several inches of the paster in any direction I would back up to 10 yards and fire another shot. If the dot is still within several inches of the paster I would then back up to 15 yards and fire a group of three. I would then consult your manual and make adjustments to the site accordingly to bring the shot on to the paster from the center of the group that was fired. This might take a few groups to accomplish a good zero. To finish up I’d fire a 5 or 10 round group to confirm the gun is grouping is consistently. You can replace 15 yards with whatever distance you would like to have the gun zeroed at. If the bullet impacts considerably far away from the paster at the closer distances you may need to make large adjustments from the start to get the bullet impacting near the aiming point so that you are on paper at the further distances. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  6. shooterDrew

    Red dot sights and co-witnessing

    I do not believe the Walther Q5 match has correct co-witness height sights. And unless I’m mistaken, totally possible, the rear sight comes completely off when you mount the dot. When you are co-witnessing through the optic you should not need to bottom out the red dot adjustment. If both the rear notch and front post are able to be aligned inside/thru the glass then it will likely take minimal adjustment to position the dot correctly over the front sight. If you are trying to do that without a rear sight you are definitely not going to be zeroing the dot. If you don’t have the ability to correctly align the front and rear sight thru the RD then you should ignore the front sight post when you Zero the dot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  7. shooterDrew

    Red dot sights and co-witnessing

    Check my last post. I added to it after clicking post haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  8. shooterDrew

    Red dot sights and co-witnessing

    Co-Witnessing means to be able to see the iron sights and align them thru the glass of a red dot sight. It’s a means of having a back up sighting system available in case of dot failure. Lots of times that means a higher than traditional iron sight is needed. I am pretty sure the M&P Cores come with tall irons that will accomplish this. An easy way to get a good start on zeroing your red dot would be to adjust it so that the dot sights right on top of the top edge of your front post when the front and rear are aligned. You might still need some adjustment to get it dead on but this will be close. This will also make “finding the dot” a little easier for you until you get some reps in and train past that problem. Just draw the gun and align the irons like a normal gun and boom- there’s the dot Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. shooterDrew

    Nowlin Arms

    Nowlin does now make barrels with the c/p ramp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  10. shooterDrew

    STI Edge with MBX mags

    That doesn’t seem like the normal experience. I’ve had 3 STI’s- 2 edges and one DVC open- that all fed off the MBX’s very reliably. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  11. shooterDrew

    Nowlin Arms

    I just had a build completed by Spencer Race Guns using a Nowlin .40 bull barrel and pro match action kit. Very happy with both. The trigger kit yielded a really nice crisp trigger with almost no pre-travel, and very little (if any) over-travel. The barrel looks very well made and has produced tight groups with my reloads.. which were just the bullets I’d cranked out last season for my STI. I had egw trigger parts in my STI, and while it produced a good trigger as well I actually prefer this new one from the nowlin parts. The nowlin is a tad heavier (still sub 3lbs) but had less movement before and after the break ... granted the egw parts were installed and fit by a gunsmith and the nowlin parts were literally just dropped in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  12. shooterDrew

    2018 USPSA Nationals

    Setting up matches on the local level can be enough of a headache. I can not imagine the amount of work that went into this scale of an event. Thank you to everyone who was involved! I shot like dog s#!t but still managed to enjoy myself quite a bit. It seems there are some people that are not fans of universal, I’m not one of them. I’ve enjoyed every match I’ve been able to shoot down there- and I’ve yet to come away thinking it was easy. I only wish I lived a little closer so I could shoot there more regularly. Can’t wait for next year! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  13. shooterDrew

    Thumb Rest Recommendations

    Another one for Go-Guns here. I have them on my limited guns and my open gun. I have pretty good size hands and the way these end up fitting when installed on STI pattern frame holes makes it work well. It would also work well for smaller hands. The rest sits right above the slide stop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  14. shooterDrew

    140mm or 155mm mbx mags?

    I agree here. If you’re already set up with some 140s or use them in Limited go with 140s. If you’re buying your first set of mags and don’t shoot limited go with the 155s or all 170s. I shoot limited and have 140s for my open gun too, so when I got a 155 I noticed it was a little different to reload due to the extra length. Nothing big but when you’re pushing it the difference between the two could be enough to cause a bobble. And the extra couple rounds don’t make any real difference 99.9% of the time. I find that I rarely use the 155. I’d say best bet if you’re an open only guy would be just to only have 170s and practice only with them. Then you’re always maxed out.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  15. shooterDrew

    Halosun 510c

    This looks super interesting to me. Do you have any pics down the sight or comparisons to your previous set up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
×