Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

RiggerJJ

Classifieds
  • Content Count

    2,903
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About RiggerJJ

  • Rank
    Burned Out

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.rm3g.com
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Denver, CO
  • Real Name
    JJ Johnson

Recent Profile Visitors

2,120 profile views
  1. Wow, what a bunch of fluff just to load 9mm... All I have ever used is a U die size/decap in #1, Swage in 2, and prime and load all in one pass. Never had a primer pull back problem, maybe cause I dry tumble? Technically, my one pass, manual system is faster than a 2 pass automated setup, cause I load 900-1000rph...the 2 pass automated is maybe doing 1500rph divided by 2, = 750rph to get completed ammo. Plus the twice the handling of the brass... Oh yea, to answer the OP, putting a size die on the swage station will not allow the swage to work correctly. It needs the holding down action of the hold down die. A size die will let the swage push the case up further into the die, resulting in an incomplete swage.
  2. POI will change no matter what when adding weight to the end of the rifle.
  3. In addition to above, make sure the RF is plumb side to side, and fore and back leaning forward just a touch.
  4. Ah, ok. I run rifle brass thru a processing head with full length sizer/decaper, then swage, and finally Dillon power trim on a single head. The sizer/decaper is set to size about 3/4 of the sizing job, and the trim die does the rest. Lube is applied generously for this...
  5. I am curious as to why you lube rifle case for trimming... I lube both rifle and pistol cases for sizing, but never heard of using lube for trimming... jj
  6. This is the best advise to minimize primer dets. Don't use fed primers either. Other than that, don't reload at all. It's one of those things that can happen no matter how many precautions you take.
  7. If all the stations are being used around the primer station, you don't need that primer hold down...primers should go in pretty easily. I've never seen the need for it. Using mixed brass you may see the problem when some swaged pockets come into play.
  8. The amount of dry tumbling dust left behind before loading will not cause any power or load consistency problem. It's just 9mm for gosh sakes...and it certainly would not have caused your contamination problem. Your specific problem was more than likely the witch's brew you are cleaning the brass with not being totally dry when you loaded them contaminating the powder. The old adage "keep your powder dry" still applies. I see no reason to add anything wet to the reloading equation, hence my reasoning for dry tumbling.
  9. Changing calibers on a 1050 is NOT a pain. Only takes 30 minutes, INCLUDING changing primer size. I never could understand having dedicated presses just to avoid changing calibers... (About the same for changing calibers on a 650) A 1050 will swage mil 223 AND 9mm primer pockets. That's the basic difference from a 650 besides the price of tooling up. A 1050 head (which you will need 3 of) cost about $200, vs $25 for the 650. Caliber conversions (which you will need 2 of) cost about $130 for the 1050, and about $80 for the 650. Dillon has a special deal going on right now for their 650, including case feeder and all the conversions and dies for 9mm AND 223 for $1700. Not sure what the total would be for a similar 1050 set up. So the big difference is cost, and having to do swaging off-press with the 650. This is assuming that you also get a on-press trimmer for either... So...loading what your numbers indicate, leans you toward the 650...unless you anticipate shooting lots more, which you will because loading will not take up most of your time...if you have the scratch, get the 1050 and grow into it ... Just to add my personal stuff... I have a 1050 and a 650. The 650 is now just used to load precision ammo on. The 1050 loads 45, 40, 9mm, 223, and 308. Having the swager on press is wonderful...
  10. I would load and shoot them, then scrap them because they will stretch quite a bit, because the next firing could result in case head separation. The correct process of adjusting the SIZING die would be to screw it in or out until the headspace is correct with the case gauge. Adjusting a decap die is pretty easy, is it pushing the primers out? GTG! When setting up ANY die, it will behoove you to check the results before cranking out 500 rounds...
  11. Agreed... Seems like nearly every day there is a post like this, and we answer, and then the next guy comes in asking the same questions... It's not rocket science! Pick a bullet and powder, and work up to major. It's what I had to do...
  12. It's a pretty standard 3gun payload, seems to work for me
  13. Me too, totally lazy...and 100s of thousands of pistol and rifle ammo over nearly 20 years here with no problems Really, you don't need to do all that stuff and mix all those witches brews just for clean brass, and decapping before cleaning is a total waste of time. Try dry tumbling, lube, and load. (Dry tumble again for 15 minutes to remove the lube). More time to shoot, no wet contamination possibilities...win/win
×
×
  • Create New...