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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About RiggerJJ

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    Denver, CO
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    JJ Johnson

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  1. RiggerJJ

    9 major

    What???? 3n38 is too bulky, and ends up being compressed to the point of pushing the bullet out slightly. 3n37 is more popular. Silhouette is used by a lot of open shooters, as is WAC. Even CFE is a good open powder.
  2. Yea...hate to say it Eric, but that is a bit too much crimp. You can be able to see the mark, but it should not indent the bullet. At least thats what my reloading teachers taught me...
  3. Bottom line is, any setback, even 3 thou, is an indication of something not right. You should not be able to push the bullet in by hand, or one chambering should not set it back either.
  4. That bring up another issue. A crimp die set too hard can do what Noylj is taking about, as in swaging the bullet down. A Lee factory crimp die is notorious for that. Best to use just a slight taper crimp. If you are using one, check by measuring a bullet, seating and crimping it, then pull it and measure again.
  5. Nothing wrong with using a reddot on pistol and TO legal rifle and shotgun in stealth, its just legal to have a dot on shotgun and 2 optics on rifle and a bipod. Nothing says those accessories are manditory... ps: Stealth does have some other restrictions, like 30 round rifle mags and such...maybe ya oughta go to Stealtys link above and READ the rules...
  6. Never try to use crimp to solve setback, because it won't. You need to size the case tighter for more neck tension, or get different bullets that are the correct diameter. Consider using a U die. It will solve the problem, if the bullets are actually .355-.556. Eta; any setback is not acceptable...
  7. Your RT is the way to go. Run it on the processing head and you don't have to handle each case individually. Use lots of lube so the resizing is consistent, then the trim will be. No way would I run thousands of cases individually thru a pencil sharpener type, or a lathe type...just too slow and the pencil sharpener is too painful on the fingers.
  8. Turn the mag over, bullets up. I use a taco mag pouch, for the longer mags I make a stiff extension for the pouch so they hang lower. Or use a leg rig. jj
  9. I am looking for a clamp type ARCA adapter for an Atlas Bipod. I have a screw knob type and it keeps coming loose... any such animals out there??? Thanks! jj
  10. Your load of 7.8 is a little lite for major, reseating will prob not help. Get the PF up to around 170 to be safe. You will probably end up at around 8.2 hs6.
  11. Yea, the popple holes will up your powder need a bit for major. I use 8.2gn of hs6 with 124jhps (no popples) and get 170ish. I also use win sp primers. I see no need to artificially (and possibly dangerously) cover up pressure signs by using rifle primers. I don't get any flow like that either...
  12. I use a RCBS drum type powder measure on a 1050 and a 650. No problems other than finding the room to install it.
  13. Some of my ballistics on different guns show that with a 200 yard zero my poi at 50 can be off by as much as 3/4 of an inch. Imagine what kind of error at 200 that would be if I zeroed at 50 and just left it. Just like Tony says above... We are saying pretty much the same thing I think, but I go even further. I don't think I'm going to induce any error... I "zero" (put it on close) at 50 then zero at 200. I just prefer to put it on at 200, then verify at longer. I even us a 6 inch high by 4 foot long calibration bar made of steel at extreme distance, (600 for a 223, 800 for 308 or a precision gun) to correct my ballistics chart and zero... I want all of my competitors to zero at 50 and leave it... All of this is done with elevation only. I will pick a calm wind day to zero the windage, at as far as I can, but at least 200. And to make it even more confusing, for my iron sight rifles I zero at 300...
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