P320 X5 Thread

[m700]

The little annoyance on the x5 when you let the slide drop it sometimes requires a small push forward with your thumb. What is this caused by? It was never an issue until recently. With factory spring It made no difference, would fire with out the forward assist. Once I added the GG kit/Springer tungsten rod with 12.5# spring it still did not matter. This past weekend I hit the range and now im getting a light primer strike. Im not sure if its that I did not clean before the range this time out.

 

And on a seperate note Im still having an issue with GG kit that I can not always dryfire. I will rack it over and over and it will not fire. It works fine loaded though. Anyone else come up with this issue

[ddc]

The behavior you describe about the slide not going all the way forward: That only happens on mine (two X5s) if I'm not careful to pull the slide fully to the rear and then let go smartly taking care to not ride the slide forward even just a little bit. Any interference and the slide will not go fully into battery. They have both behaved that way since new regardless of recoil spring weight.

 

This is not the first time I've heard this mentioned; fairly common observation as far as I can tell.

 

Never had a problem with light primer strikes.

 

Both of mine have GG kits with Springer tungsten rods and use 13# springs.

 

Regarding not being able to dryfire: When I installed my kits one X5 worked fine. The other wouldn't reset when I racked the slide. Emailed GG and they suggested my gun might be on the edge of tolerance. Take the kits out and swap them. So I swapped the two kits and now both guns worked fine. 

 

The crazy thing is I then swapped the kits into the gun they were originally installed in and both guns continued to work. No problems since then after tens of thousands of rounds.

 

So just the tiniest hitch somewhere in the sear reset process that went away almost immediately after I cycled the slides several times.

 

How new is your gun and how new is the GG kit?

 

[m700]

Gun is a couple years old 10k or so. the GG kit went on 4 months ago or so and has 4k of those rounds.

The slide issue may just be a dirty gun issue Im going to monitor it the next few range days. And the dryfire issue doesnt effect performance at all just my ability to practice at home. Im going to pick up a snapcap. Its easier than tearing it apart.

[Tango]

Hi all, quick question on Romeo 1 installation on X5: can you re-use the screws provided with Romeo 1 after torquing them to the specified 30 ft.lb? I had removed my optic for inspection, and put it back on using the same screws. So the screws have been torqued twice, which is generally not recommended. Any experience with this?

[jpm2953]

14 minutes ago, Tango said:

Hi all, quick question on Romeo 1 installation on X5: can you re-use the screws provided with Romeo 1 after torquing them to the specified 30 ft.lb? I had removed my optic for inspection, and put it back on using the same screws. So the screws have been torqued twice, which is generally not recommended. Any experience with this?

That really only applied to “torque to yield” bolts. You are good to go

[Tango]

14 minutes ago, jpm2953 said:

That really only applied to “torque to yield” bolts. You are good to go

 

ok thanks, but i thought all weapon optic bolts were torque to yield, otherwise why do we even bother with specified torque values?

[jpm2953]

11 minutes ago, Tango said:

 

ok thanks, but i thought all weapon optic bolts were torque to yield, otherwise why do we even bother with specified torque values?

Having a torque value is different than torque to yield. Usually a Torque to yield bolt will have a low TQ value and then turn additional 90 degrees or whatever degree they specify. It’s more for automotive stuff. Aluminum cylinder heads and MLS gaskets

[George16]

37 minutes ago, Tango said:

 

ok thanks, but i thought all weapon optic bolts were torque to yield, otherwise why do we even bother with specified torque values?

Not on weapons optic screws or bolts.

 

We use a lot of those TTY screws and bolts on our turbine engines especially on the combustion area because of the heat generated. The bolts gets fatigued and will just shear off if they’re reused because they had been stretched beyond their elasticity.

 

By the way, you said you torque the screws down to 30 ft lbs? The manual states that it should only be torqued to 30 in. lbs 

Edited September 12, 2019 by George16

[RH45]

4 minutes ago, George16 said:

Not on weapons optic screws or bolts.

 

We use a lot of those TTY screws and bolts on our turbine engines especially on the combustion area because of the heat generated. The bolts gets fatigued and will just shear off if they’re reused because they had been stretched beyond their elasticity.

 

By the way, you said you torque the screws down to 30 ft lbs? The manual states that it should only be torqued to 30 in. lbs 

TTY bolts can be a real P.I.T.A., when you really don’t have much working room!

I’m guessing that if he would have tried to torque those screws to 30 foot pounds, either they would have stripped out, or broke.

[Tango]

12 minutes ago, George16 said:

Not on weapons optic screws or bolts.

 

We use a lot of those TTY screws and bolts on our turbine engines especially on the combustion area because of the heat generated. The bolts gets fatigued and will just shear off if they’re reused because they had been stretched beyond their elasticity.

 

By the way, you said you torque the screws down to 30 ft lbs? The manual states that it should only be torqued to 30 in. lbs 

i torqued to 28 in.lbs (with blue thread locker)

 

i see too many slide mounted optics flying off or failing in other ways, so i wanted to double check

 

i think i will order new screws and install them fresh

 

 

[George16]

4 minutes ago, Tango said:

i torqued to 28 in.lbs (with blue thread locker)

 

i see too many slide mounted optics flying off or failing in other ways, so i wanted to double check

 

i think i will order new screws and install them fresh

 

 

For peace of mind, go with new screws. Keep in mind that those can be reused multiple times because they’re not subjected to high torque values. Just clean up the threads using acetone or alcohol and then it can be safely reinstalled along with a dab of blue loctite.

[Tango]

2 minutes ago, Tango said:

i torqued to 28 in.lbs (with blue thread locker)

 

i see too many slide mounted optics flying off or failing in other ways, so i wanted to double check

 

i think i will order new screws and install them fresh

 

 

i should also mention that i am quite disappointed with romeo 1 so far, this is the second one i am installing on my x5, the previous one had electronic issues (up button wouldnt work if the battery cap was tightened above 5in.lbs) and the glass lost its stability in its housing after 500 rounds or so  (it clicked and moved back and forth when i pressed with my finger during cleaning)

[Tango]

1 minute ago, George16 said:

For peace of mind, go with new screws. Keep in mind that those can be reused multiple times because they’re not subjected to high torque values. Just clean up the threads using acetone or alcohol and then it can be safely reinstalled along with a dab of blue loctite.

yeah, i figured that peace of mind is kind of important in this sport

[Tango]

Has anybody replaced the front sight on the X5 with a wider one? I feel like the fiber insert is a little too small to pick up quickly in low light conditions, I am thinking of replacing it with a trijicon front sight (trijicon has 0.06 fiber diameter instead of the 0.04 on the dawson)

[Posvar]

An X5 I picked up had a wider Dawson site with larger FO rod installed and I like it! 

 

Edit- site is wider but optic is the same. It has the larger blob method which threw me off.

Edited September 14, 2019 by Posvar

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: You can put a bigger blob on the end of the fiber on the Dawson sight so you can pick it up easier. Also try a different color that your eye may pickup better. For me on outdoor ranges the green works the best. Inside the red works better with indoor lighting. Thanks, Eric

[Posvar]

Eric is correct. Didn’t think of that. A bigger  flared blob on the end closest to your eye works well. 

[Tango]

Bigger blob doesnt do much for me in indoor ranges. Since the rear notch is very wide in the original dawson sights, i thought i could just use a larger post/fiber in the front

[ddc]

I've used the "bigger blob" technique and it helps me but I've wondered about going to something that uses a 0.060" rod as well.

 

I wonder if there is enough meat on the factory front sight to allow it to be drilled out.

[Posvar]

14 minutes ago, ddc said:

I've used the "bigger blob" technique and it helps me but I've wondered about going to something that uses a 0.060" rod as well.

 

I wonder if there is enough meat on the factory front sight to allow it to be drilled out.

I bet you could find one to fit. Maybe call Dave Dawson before you start drilling. I just checked mine and the site is wider but the fiber is the same size. The larger blob method has helped me but I mainly shoot outside. 

[Tango]

33 minutes ago, Posvar said:

I bet you could find one to fit. Maybe call Dave Dawson before you start drilling. I just checked mine and the site is wider but the fiber is the same size. The larger blob method has helped me but I mainly shoot outside. 

 

I think the dawson front sight has a thickness of 0.09, and the fiber is 0.04. Chances are you will mess it up before you can fit 0.06 fiber.

 

Dawson has thicker front post, but their fiber sizes are always 0.04

[jcc7x7]

I think EGW and Kensight use .060 fiber rod!

[Tango]

Just now, jcc7x7 said:

I think EGW and Kensight use .060 fiber rod!

trijicon too

[Posvar]

On all my 2011 guns I have preferred a little wider front site and love the larger rod. A couple of my Limcats have the larger rod and it is so bright. Let us know if you get it sorted out.

[Jetskidawg]

Hi all, I just had a DPP failure on my X5, which is mounted to a Springer Precision plate.  When I do the reinstall, what's the right torque?  Since the plate is aluminum, using Leupold's directions will lead to stripped threads.  Looked all over and not finding a value.  Thanks!