m700

Im sorry make that the apex10

If you are set on the 1100 look at the evo as well. It will give you the chance to powdercheck/bulletfeed/size/crimp

Originally I handled cases so much i would always spot issues. Off the ground, brass size seperator, out of seperator, into wet cleaner, into seperator, into dehydrator, out of dehydrator, handfulls into plastic bag for lube, into collator(cant really see this), down tube on press, out of tray into rag to wipe some lube off, into the ammo storage box, into range bag, and into magazines. Ive pulled brass from every point in those listed steps but never spent time directly inspecting. I will only case gauge when setting up press or if ammo is going to competition.

Ordered FFB shellplate as the fw were out of stock. also ordered their 223 plunger

Thank you for this. I am running mighty armory decap Mighty armory self centering swage hold Didnt do the tie wire stock shellplate. Ordering fw decap/tab set but their #3 is out of stock.

Still having issues. This press ran fine previous to automating. I was fighting torque issues got it running fine past that. Then every 3rd or 4th round through the decap pin on decap die would miss the case mouth and snap the pin. I got past that and got it running 50-60 rounds then it would jam on the extractor bar. Replaced that with Fast and friendly extractor. Now the decap pin is missing again. I bought an upgraded pawl Im going to install that and play with timing.

I think i prefer loading on a 1050/1100 or a 650/750. But I started on a 550 then added 650 then replaced 650 with 1100. But all along I held onto the 550. It is nice having a very fast to swap system that is capable of loading anything(essentially) at a low cost of caliber change. It is also very easy to learn on. The manual rotation of the shell plate makes it easy to control everything that happens. It is slower and more hands on but to start it will provide a solid start.

That is great results in my opinion Im not sure any of the following would pay off. The loss of 50 primers over 20,000 wouldnt be worth the cost of time/money to do better. -either tuning your autofiller or swiching to PAL style may help with primers -reduced speed can help with the crushed(4 isnt bad though) -using new brass(or at least 1 regular fire) will eliminate cracks -roll sizing would probably eliminate bulge for gauging I would decap and save the 8 upside down primers, the ones right side up I find the decap pin destorts the primer so just dump case after bullet and powder recovered.

I bought a case of 5k and I cant get them to run in anything but 2011's. 4 different sigs will fire second strike only. Only loaded 200 to test. but loaded 2k in tubes

There is no way without combining seat and crimp. I setup a camera that looks in the case at the seating station. It is pretty effective.

For $600 you can get a new 550 press in one of the calibers and reload with some speed. caliber swaps from there are 100 or less.

I would guess that was an imperfection in the stock. I would expect that part to bend before it cracks.

I sold my S2 because of this I was fed up with loading separately for a non primary gun. The best answer is to have barrel rechambered so that it likes everything you already make for other guns. Off hand I think I was loading 1.08" for the CZ. It was very easy to tell that apart from the rest of the ammo I make

I just got some now that im on 1100. I always thought it was just as easy to remove the toolhead and dump it but now that I have them I should have bought them when I was on 650.

Have the same ones. work well