Pinning the grip safety ?

[Ken_Bird]

Or just cut the arm off, if it makes any difference to you to maintain the original appearance.

Well, I suppose cutting off an arm is one way to prevent an accidental discharge.

Actually removal of the head works better, but the arm is a great backup method. Any port in a storm they say in the Navy.

[ML1911]

Was thinking of pinning my SS gun. Think I'll try the shock buff method.

[turbopower18]

I started to cut the arm off of my grip safety but didnt like the floppy feel of it not being pinned. I opted to pin mine using 1/16" Stainless Dowel Pin. Should be available at your local Fastenal store

[Dranoel]

I just lighten the leaf on the sear spring til it takes very little grip to keep it keep it in.

[jtrump]

It is also very easy to take a file to the grip safety just enough so that it doesn't engage. Say later on you want a working grip safety again you spread the metal just a tad and you have a working grip safety again. Never heard of the shock buff method until now.

[terrydoc]

I just did the shock buff method takes just a couple of minutes, hardest (?) part is trimming the shock buff to the size needed.

[cas]

I just lighten the leaf on the sear spring til it takes very little grip to keep it keep it in.

Hand size and grip play a bit factor. For me there's no way to "sensitize" the grip safety for it will work. My grip works the grip safety in reverse, pushing up on the beavertail so much it levers it out away from the frame.

For the same reason the "jam pin" method doesn't work either. Oh it works for a little while, but as I found out the hard way, eventually that reverse pressure forces the grip safety "off". And not just off, jammed off. On the clock or under pressure they "why's" of what's happening escape you. lol

(A filler piece like S&W686 showed would prevent it from happening.)

I grind off the tab. Most of my 1911's don't use the original grip safety anyway, so switching them back to stock should I ever want to is simple.

In truth I prefer the grip safety out and the beaver tail pushed up as high as possible. It's a minor difference but I can feel it and prefer it to a pinned safety.

Edited March 13, 2016 by cas

[ltdmstr]

I remove the beavertail then pin the safety. If it's pinned, it's impossible to activate unless maybe you hit it with a ball peen hammer.

[turbopower18]

I use 1/16" Stainless Dowel Pin 5/8" Long. Drill your hole in the mainspring housingslide the pin in then slide the mainspring housing back in the grip. Fully depress the grip safety in and take a small hammer and hit the bottom of the mainspring housing so it gives you a drilling point on the grip safety itself. Drill your hole in the grip safety deep enough for the pin to slide in and mainspring housing is fully in the grip.

[tyler2you]

Here's another method I haven't seen mentioned. My gunsmith welded a blob on the bottom of the grip safety and filed to fit.

[seadog_99]

I use a 1/16"X11/2" roll pin.

[toothandnail]

I think I will go the PINNED route on mine.

Now, It is adjusted so just a fraction of movement deactivates it.

But

I have very wide hands and the magwell flare can easily push my hand high enough that the web of my hand pushes up hard enough on the beaver tail to occasionally activate it.

Usually on first shot from draw.

[Th3Un4givin]

Here's another method I haven't seen mentioned. My gunsmith welded a blob on the bottom of the grip safety and filed to fit.

This is what my smith did to my SS, works great and never have to worry about it.

[nickbfishn]

Does anyone have pictures of the shim style pinning technique, using a sliver of shock buff?

[echotango]

see post #24

[Edge40]

I'm lucky I've never had an issue with not being able to engage the grip safety. I don't see the need to disable it if it's not a problem.

[rhett45acp]

I'm lucky I've never had an issue with not being able to engage the grip safety. I don't see the need to disable it if it's not a problem.

I was told 20+ years ago that I needed to pin my safety on some guns I was building. Never did, never been a problem. I think it depends on the person, so we are both lucky!

[nickbfishn]

Thanks guys. I just did mine with the buff treatment and it worked great. My grip safety was already disengaged amd it was just flopping around, so I wanted it to be stationary to mimic the setup on my limcat limited. I'll take it to the range in a couple days to ensure all is well, but thus far I think it's great.

Thanks again

[MrPostman]

Pinned is in my opinion the best way to do this, the grip safety is solid when it is pinned and flush with the grip if done correctly. No flopping grip safety and no chance of something loose ending up in the disconnector/sear interface.

[BeerBaron]

Yeah mine is pinned with a roll pin. I've tried the shock buff method and it works fine but mr postman makes a good point, it is introducing a potential failure point. It's unlikely to fail but the roll pin is even safer. In a game where reliability is everything it's worth the extra effort to do a little drilling.

It's pretty easy with a drill press but do able with just a vice and hand drill/dremel.

Edited June 7, 2016 by BeerBaron

[ricardo28]

I see a few guys mentioning SS (Single Stack) which if you shoot that division, your BTGS must work, no? I could have swore they checked it at WSSSC last time i went.

[ivan]

No, the grip safety does not have to work: even in Single Stack. I have deactivated mine and neither WSSSC nor any other USPSA/IPSC match will check/harass you about this.

-ivan-

[ricardo28]

Well then, thanks for the info. I have never had an issue depressing mine but know a few who have. I thought I seen the guy doing the chrono, weight check was checking safety function as he manipulated it a few times.

Edited June 7, 2016 by ricardo28

[lawboy]

cutting off the arm is not a preferred method because it does not signal to a user that the grip safety has been disabled. It looks and functions like it works, when it does not.

I prefer and use the pinned method. That way, anyone who picks the gun up as a fair opportunity to realize that the grip safety is non-functioning.

[ltdmstr]

cutting off the arm is not a preferred method because it does not signal to a user that the grip safety has been disabled. It looks and functions like it works, when it does not.

I prefer and use the pinned method. That way, anyone who picks the gun up as a fair opportunity to realize that the grip safety is non-functioning.

Plus you can always remove the pin and make the safety functional again. This is a big plus if you decide to lend it or sell it. Cutting off the arms cuts the value and will scare off a lot of potential buyers.