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About rhett45acp

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  • Birthday 09/11/1967

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    Chesterfield South Carolina
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    Rhett Toler

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  1. This is more than likely the Carbide ring broke on the sizing die. I had this happen about 2 years ago. I could not even see the crack with my eyes, but it would expand and shrink as the die worked the brass. Replaced with another Dillon and is running fine. The new gen FL sizing die has the spring loaded de-capper. Once in a blue moon the E-Clip will break. It comes with a spare. I recommend you keep a few around. Its a standard E-Clip and 1/4" size. For me, its Dillon or Redding for dies. For both 9mm and 40 I have never had an issue with brass not sizing right with Dillon dies. I see no need for a modified or lee die. But, the Lee / EGW seems to be very popular. I am in the neighborhood of 10-20K rounds a year on reloading depending on shooting demand. Some years less some more.
  2. ArrDave -> Trying not to be rude, but your message structure is very broken. You mention 3. Then a button stopped working. Which one? My experience with the DPP is limited to one. I must say it has not been good. It lasted 6 magazines before I gave up. Turned off twice within the six strings. Mounted on a Glock G34 with minor powder puff rounds. Outer Impact dovetail mount. It is in transit to Oregon as I type. I will say Leopold was very responsive via email. In the end, they recommended I send it in for service. I am mildly optimistic.
  3. Just mounted a new DPP on my Glock 34 G3. Was like a little kid at Christmas. Sight it in at 15 yards on a metric. All well and good. Now off to the steel plates. Sadly It did not make it through 6 strings. Turned off twice at random while firing. This was gong to be my jump into CO. This has kind of squashed the will now. I have contacted Leopold via email.
  4. Grams. I had some for Glock years ago.
  5. I am slowly become a fan of the 357 Sig. I have two conversion barrels for a couple of Glocks. Factory ammo is not so much more $. I found a cache of once fired brass too. My 650 is G2G with the Mr. BF with 9mm and standard Dillon 40 stuff. Just add dies. Speer Lawman 125 barely makes PF. Its available at $17/50 + rebate. So there is some downloaded factory offers to play with. I am considering shooting the G22 conversion in limited for S & G. Now, for non-game stuff. Some of the other factory options are just the heat for SD. IMHO the 40 can't keep up, but that is an ongoing drug out horse beaten debate. It is snappy in the G22, but very flat. One thing that I have noticed, it is very accurate. There seems to be a resurgence on the interwebs about the 357 Sig. And I was not too surprised that it came up here on Enos.
  6. Question; I have 5 TTI Glock extensions for my G35 setup. 3 I have been using for a few years and hold 18 rounds with some give for easy reloads. So, I am getting back into limited. Last week I ordered two more TTI extensions in Tan color. I cannot get 18 rounds in either one. I have tried several tubes and swapped springs/followers from my older ones that work. Its a hard stop at 17, not mushy, hard. Visibly I can see no difference between the new ones and old ones. Then to add insult, yesterday one of my existing TTI did two speed unloads during match. I have put it back together with a newer tube, so I shall see. I love TTI's stuff, but now my confidence is shaken.
  7. My 2 cents, a well built 1911 is not so much a mystery to keep running. Its good to know the basics, but you don't need to be a basement gunsmith. When you do have a problem and you are limited in knowledge, put the Dremel down and find a good smith.
  8. Looking around, maybe my English is not so good. Does this imply its OK for CO, but not production? " Notes: Added Q5 Match 6/2/2016, updated weight 7/27/16 Added Creed 9mm 2/8/17 Added Q5 Match SF (steel frame) Carry Optics only, without mag well. 1/4/19 . Creed 9mm 4 inch barrel (26.6 oz.):
  9. Yep, I zeroed in on Classifiers for when they did move the website I have not been able to find the "book". We usually keep an updated classifier book printed and in the connex box.
  10. It's under club resources -> other resources -> classifier diagrams. It's very important to check this link for a good amount of classifiers have been retired. There are also several new classifiers in the 18-xx series. You do need to be logged into the website. They are also available on the USPSA app. On iOS it's under classifier diagrams.
  11. Yes, you will have to adjust a tab bit depending on the bullet. Its pretty simple process and these videos make it pretty clear. http://www.mrbulletfeeder.com/video-tutorials/ The video on the nose guide is super valuable. You do need a stable bench, but this should be true even without the BF. My bench absolutely does not move or shake.
  12. Sorry, quite the opposite. I believe the powder is becoming less dense when you pour it into the hopper. Think of the disclaimer on a bag of chips. "Contents settle....sold by weight" I think you will find your powder charge will increase slightly as the powder settles in the hopper. Of course this is very dependent on the type of powder. I always label my hopper with powder and charge weight. I guess I have a bad practice. But I just don't empty my hoppers. While I mostly load weekly, sometimes it may be 2 or 3 weeks. If I was going away for a month or so, yes I cycle everything out. It has just never been an issue. I live in a very humid environment, but the reloading stuff has always been in a client controlled environment.
  13. If you are like me and loading every week, which I do. Usually 300-500 rounds per session. I don't do anything. I get the quantity of rounds I want, flip off the power and walk away. (650 with Mr. BF and CF) I think you may be overthinking your situation. I never let the powder hopper drop below 1/3. I have a baffle installed also. There is something to what the GrumpyOne was saying about the powder picking up moisture. Also, remember, the measure works off of volume, not weight. So when you dump the powder and re-fill later you are "bulking" it up.
  14. The input brass is a very good point and a wild card. I happen to have a supply of brass that is cleaned and ready to go when I receive. Side note: almost all matches I shoot now are lost brass. So only recover during practice. To clarify about the primer. I have had ZERO issues with priming on the 650. What does happen is usually with some "WC" cases and nickle primers just not decapping. I toss them quickly and move on. Also the occasional berdan that escapes my pre inspection. I have seen more lately and don't get me going on stepped brass. I too get the occasional bullet tipped over. I frankly have the fully automated press on my mind. Just trying to wrap my mind around the cost/effort ration. I am glad you gave an honest 1500.
  15. Hi, I want to measure my own figures against the community. I will use my current 650 Dillon setup for 9mm 124 gr as a reference. I have Mr. Bullet Feeder and case feeder. A few other minor upgrades. I have more primer tubes than I know. So, what is the real time involved in loading X amount of rounds? Given = plenty of brass cleaned and stored in a bin. Let's start the loading process. Grab plastic container, use a 50 hole brick* to inspect brass and place in container. I do this for about 600 rounds. Spray with one shot. Close container and shake rattle and roll. Load 6 primer tubes of Winchester primers. By then the One Shot is dry. Dump about 200 cases in the feeder and 100+ bullets in the feeder. Top off powder and fill primer magazine on press. Load ~100 rounds, rinse and repeat. (topping off brass, bullets, powder and primers). In ~500 round "one hour" session I have maybe 10 stoppages due to various reasons like flipped case or primer stuck in case. My reality is with the 650, Case and Bullet Feeder, I am happy to turn out ~500 an hour. Granted I may be a little slower or deliberate than others. This too me is a Start to Finish measurement. Not in this process is the brass cleaning. When I load 40 S&W the extra time for X Die processing is another factor. For all the EGW/Lee 40 die fans, I get it. Personally, since I went to the X die, I no longer case gauge 40. Just my preference. Thanks
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