nickbfishn

Are the shoes interchangeable On the X-line, like the SVI triggers?

Here’s my perception and my reasoning for choosing aluminum. I too will be shooting mostly minor, but also mostly for steel challenge. Therefore, I don’t wan the extra weight to slow me down and I don’t think I’ll need it to help offset what minimal recoil there claims to be with this gun. However, I will also occasionally be using it to shoot .40 for USPSA matches. But if it shoots as soft as others have claimed then I’m not to worried about the implications of the reduced weight of the aluminum grip. Also, if you’re worried about the aluminum breaking, stop worrying now. I’ve been reassured that if it fractures they will make it right. Finally thought, if you are only going to shoot minor, don’t even consider the extra money on the heavier steel. Just get the aluminum and use $200 saved for more ammo or mags....or a nitro fin

Im in the exact same situation!

Following. Lettuce know how/if they work.

One of my PCC’s has one and I can’t make it jam. It just eats and eats and eats.

I have several different bolts and the only one, yes the only one, that has not had a single failure to feed, cycle, or eject has been the taccom. Tim has massaged and tuned his bolts in all the right places. Mine is not the one with the fancy nickel coating, because I’m a poor, but they are mechanically identical. Aside from that, Tell your neighbor not to cheap out on the parts that count (lower, trigger, bolt/buffer, mags) but to go full-poor on all the other stuff and it will still likely run (upper, handguard, barrel, buffer tube, shoulder stock, sights, lasers, bayonets, gizmos and do-hickeys)

Following...inquiring minds want to know!

Sounds like yellow jackets in a frenzy. Those little devils don’t calm down until their enemy is destroyed..or in my case, until my ear, my lip, my back, and my inner thigh (exceptionally close to the family jewels) were destroyed. Hate those things.

The best combination I’ve found is the taccom 3 stage buffer and the rifle spring. And no, I don’t have a rifle length buffer tube. however, before you run out at purchase anything new, stay tuned because a brand new type of system is coming out soon and it’ll trump everything currently on the market, and it won’t be outrageously priced either.

I’ll buy it off you if you make that switch!

What handguard, barrel, and barrel nut is this?

Well guys I think I completed my mission. It took some custom parts and lots of tweaking, but the finished product is 62.5 ounces (3.90 lbs). This gun is purpose built for steel challenge only and we were able to create a load/buffer/spring/trigger combo that runs 90pf ammo flawlessly. And best of all the dot barely even wiggles and the recoil feels about equal to my 10/22 shooting mini mags! When my kid opened her box Christmas morning and took it out she said “is this really a PCC daddy? It feels lighter than my 10/22!” Truth be told, it’s 3 ounces heavier than her 10/22, but the weight is balanced well to make it feel lighter.

I’ve used 147 with 2.8 for steel and 3.2 for uspsa. with 124/5’s I use 3.2 for steel and 3.8 for uspsa 1.110 oal

Tim, i finally see the light! I’m sure everyone already knows the difference, but I didn’t. The new style bolts have a plateau cut on top where the charge handle grabs them. This way, the heavy key on the first gen bolts can go bye-bye and a trimmed down key can take its place. In the case of your extreme bolt, it is a VERY slimmed down version. So, with the old version key it is heavy and it gets slammed forwards, hits the charge handle, and cranked backwards when charging. No wonder they fall apart, bad design. I ordered aomw some new grade 8 screws to repair my old bolt, but It’s going in my Range bag and I’m ordering a new style. Thanks for your bluntness...the world needs more of you ?

Where’s the best place to buy food replacement bolts?