nickbfishn

So long term, did this work?

I’ve seen guys apply skate tape on the carbon fiber handguard and it seems to work well.

I’ve tried dozens of combinations, from light to heavy and The best of the bunch is almost identical to what you’ve landed on...100gr Berrys w/ 2.6g titegroup. I have a recipe for a coated 135 that is also ultra soft, but it’s just to slow. After shooting outer limits and speed option I retired it.

That’s correct, they’re all identical with the large bottom and narrow top. No scrape marks or anything on the jackets...they’re brand new. I think I’m going to post them up for sale here and maybe a couple other places to see if I get any bites. If not I might start working up a load. But the part I can’t figure out is where and how to set the crimp...

I’m fairly sure they were not pulled as I don’t see any of the telltale signs you’d normally see on the jackets of pulled bullets.

Got 900 of these rem BJHP 147gr pills in an estate sale for pennies. My googling leads me to believe they’re primarily for self defense ammo, but was wondering if I should load them up for match shooting...or sell them. The bizarre thing about these bullets is that below the line the diameter is .355, but above the line it is .347. I’ve never messed with anything like this and I’m looking to see if anyone has ever loaded with these? Do they function okay at lower PF (130ish)? Any load data to share?

Are the shoes interchangeable On the X-line, like the SVI triggers?

Here’s my perception and my reasoning for choosing aluminum. I too will be shooting mostly minor, but also mostly for steel challenge. Therefore, I don’t wan the extra weight to slow me down and I don’t think I’ll need it to help offset what minimal recoil there claims to be with this gun. However, I will also occasionally be using it to shoot .40 for USPSA matches. But if it shoots as soft as others have claimed then I’m not to worried about the implications of the reduced weight of the aluminum grip. Also, if you’re worried about the aluminum breaking, stop worrying now. I’ve been reassured that if it fractures they will make it right. Finally thought, if you are only going to shoot minor, don’t even consider the extra money on the heavier steel. Just get the aluminum and use $200 saved for more ammo or mags....or a nitro fin

Im in the exact same situation!

Following. Lettuce know how/if they work.

One of my PCC’s has one and I can’t make it jam. It just eats and eats and eats.

I have several different bolts and the only one, yes the only one, that has not had a single failure to feed, cycle, or eject has been the taccom. Tim has massaged and tuned his bolts in all the right places. Mine is not the one with the fancy nickel coating, because I’m a poor, but they are mechanically identical. Aside from that, Tell your neighbor not to cheap out on the parts that count (lower, trigger, bolt/buffer, mags) but to go full-poor on all the other stuff and it will still likely run (upper, handguard, barrel, buffer tube, shoulder stock, sights, lasers, bayonets, gizmos and do-hickeys)

Following...inquiring minds want to know!

Sounds like yellow jackets in a frenzy. Those little devils don’t calm down until their enemy is destroyed..or in my case, until my ear, my lip, my back, and my inner thigh (exceptionally close to the family jewels) were destroyed. Hate those things.

The best combination I’ve found is the taccom 3 stage buffer and the rifle spring. And no, I don’t have a rifle length buffer tube. however, before you run out at purchase anything new, stay tuned because a brand new type of system is coming out soon and it’ll trump everything currently on the market, and it won’t be outrageously priced either.