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BeerBaron

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    Richard

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  1. im not a SS guy but if you’re serious about SS you need a major and minor setup because for SS matches come in 3 flavors: balanced minor friendly major friendly from what I’ve seen not many matches fall into the balanced category and overall it seems the types of stages at big matches give the edge to shooting with 10+1 over 8+1 and getting 4 point Charlie’s. I think it you wanted to commit to one gun for SS it’d be a 9mm minor. Otherwise I think it makes sense to have both options and decide based on what the match looks like. it’s probably the only major/minor division where the choice is not 100% easy.
  2. thanks for clarifying. I just saw the bullet weight in a pic someone posted of chrono results and it showed 124.0*. I assumed from the fact that it was dead on 124gn and had an * next to it that they were going off ‘declared’ bullet weight. At that point you may as well just go off declared PF and save the hassle. But if they weighed bullets at least they made an effort to check PF.
  3. So they don’t bother to actually weigh bullets? if they don’t weigh the projectiles they might as well not bother testing the velocity either.
  4. I’m not sure I’d call it a consumable exactly. The average gun owner that shoots a few hundred rounds a year will likely never replace one. When you are into competition and training 20-50k rounds per year and you’ve modified the gun with lighter springs etc it’s normal that some parts are going to wear out and need replacement. The way all cz75 style actions work (fixed lower barrel lug running on the slide stop pin) does put some wear on the pin. They unlock and link down over a shorter distance (and shorter time) than, for example, a 1911 style action. I don’t know I’d call it a flaw exactly. The pistols as originally designed weren’t intended for 50k rounds/year with lightweight springs etc. sure they now make models marketed for competition but they can’t easily change the way the gun cycles. Beyond all that its just not a big deal to change one out after a while, or just shoot it till it breaks.
  5. Lighter hammers mean faster ‘lock time’. Ie since there’s less mass to accelerate it will fall faster than a heavier one. Of course being lighter it will also deliver less force at a given speed. bare in mind we are talking tiny differences and any benefit is likely so small as to be unnoticed. The bigger changes between the hammers comes from their geometry and the shape/length of the hammer hooks.
  6. Don’t forget there’s also the unica hammer. 2 ‘standard’ types. Heart shape and conventional shape xtreme delta titan unica Thats just the ones tanfoglio make. There’s probably aftermarket ones too.
  7. You seem to be answering a point that I didn’t make... I didn’t say that the gun ‘can’t handle’ ‘full power 38 loads’. I said I wouldn’t be that keen on running 170+pf loads out of a 38 super stock 2 or stock 3. He (and I) are talking about ammo loaded with slow burning powder and relatively light bullets for the purpose of making lots of gas to work effectively in a ported + compensated barrel. In a normal barrel without ports and comp it’s just going to be fairly unpleasant to shoot. I don’t think the gun will have any mechanical problems with it and I have no idea if it would effect wear on the gun. It just wouldn’t by my preference, it’ll have a fair chunk of recoil and pressure will be pretty spicy too.
  8. The hood/lugs should fit fine. They’re not super tight there. The only possible issue would be at the muzzle end. That’s easily solved by buying a new bushing and fit that bushing to your barrel. For the bushing you can get unfitted ones from cz or buy the 10x ones from cgw etc (just note that the aftermarket bushings are legal in prod/co for uspsa but not legal in prod/pdo for IPSC).
  9. As the guys above confirmed, they break so it makes sense to have a spare and keep track of how many rounds are on the one in the gun. I also agree there’s no real set life span on them. Some break fairly quickly (10k rounds), some may have 30k+ on them and still going. With the trs, fit one of the floating trigger pins when you replace it (I like cgw, but any brand will do). The cgw one does come with a little slave pin which makes it much easier to re-assemble it all.
  10. I personally wouldn’t be that keen on running major (~170pf) ammo out of a 38 super stock 2 or stock 3 but if you read above there’s a guy shooting a 38 super stock 3 and limited custom and he’s using geco factory 38 super. He says it’s the 124gn advertised at 1411fps stuff which is 175pf. If it’s the geco ‘ipsc spec’ ammo it’s about 10.5gn of 3n38 with a 124gn fmj. He hasn’t reported any issues....... yes you can buy a new 9mm barrel and people also have varied success just shooting 9mm out of the 38 super top end without any changes.
  11. In that case remember the drill kind of has 2 elements: 1 is about reacting to the absolute start of the beep. Some people call this reacting to the b in beep. The second part is all about being able to release an accurate but fast DA shot. Any issues should be fairly easy to spot since we’ve removed a lot of other variables. By starting with the gun gripped exactly how we want, aimed at the exact spot we want to hit we don’t have to worry about a messed up draw, or whatever. Just don’t start with your finger actually touching the trigger. It can be hovering in space near the trigger but not on it. Dont be discouraged if your times start out in the .60’s or whatever as long as you’re hitting that plate 90%+ of the time. There is some physical difference in how fast different people can react to auditory stimulus. So some people will just naturally be a hair faster on this. You can also run this on paper and add a second shot to work on that da/sa transition. That kind of m becomes the drill (or a variation of it) known as ‘pairs’ or ‘doubles’. Just be aware people who do tons of DA dry fire can sometimes run into an issue with their follow up SA shot. Anyway, I really like this drill as a quick warm up at the start of a live fire practice session.
  12. Bingo. All the 38 super guns are large frame. Check for any little burrs in the grip of the new gun and check it’s not the grips rubbing on the mags (easy to check by just removing the grips). Also check the mag catch and the mags themselves for any bulging.
  13. Sell/give/swap it to someone with an open gun. It would be terrible to fire in an uncompensated stock2 and not great for the gun either. Pulling 3,000 rounds would suck. Find an open shooter and tell them you’ll give em the 3,000 rounds for 1500 rounds of ammo you actually want.
  14. I’ll say 2 things: consider a normal local/regional match. Let’s say it’s 10 stages and 220 rounds total. Probably 1 or 2 will be an unloaded start of some kind. That leaves 8 or 9 DA shots in the match and 211-212+ SA. For probably half or more of those 8-9 DA shots you’ll be able to engage a fairly close/easy target first. So maybe you’re left with 2-3 that are a bit challenging. Out of 220+.... dont get me wrong. Being able to competently shoot the gun in DA is important. Buts it’s possivly not as big a deal as people may think. It’s likely going to be less than 5% of your shots in a match. my second point is a tip for a simple life fire drill that helped me both with reaction time and being able to pull the trigger FAST but not HARD in DA. The drill is simple. 6 inch plates at 7-10 yards (or whatever distance you like). You start with the gun up on target, in DA ready to shoot but trigger finger not actually touching the trigger. At the beep you fire one DA shot at the plate. You can do it in dry fire too of course. I like it as a warm up. And it’s done this way to remove other elements like the draw, the grip etc. you are starting with a good grip, aimed on target and simply firing the shot as soon as you hear the beep. A ‘good’ time is in the low 0.20’s.
  15. Also check which length top end you have. The older v8 eric customs used the ‘4.75’ inch slide and the later v12’s used the shorter ‘4.5’ inch one.
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