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ltdmstr

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About ltdmstr

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    Beyond it All

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    Male
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    Chicago IL
  • Real Name
    Aaron Broaddus

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  1. Use some dykem or a red marker to color the flat part, then insert it into the gun as far as you can and rub it up and down. When you take it out, the color will be rubbed off showing exactly where to remove material. Use a pillar file if you have one and take off a little at a time until it goes in and moves up and down the full range of motion. Then be sure to test before loading any live ammo.
  2. ltdmstr

    Rollsizer vs CasePro

    Are they going to have a display at SHOT Show? Under what name?
  3. I certainly don't know everything about anything. Never claimed I did. In fact, one of the things I don't know is how a high round count results in broken triggers. Maybe you can explain.
  4. As long as OP is happy with it, that's all that matters. But if you've broken 10 triggers, aluminum or otherwise, you're definitely doing something wrong.
  5. I wasn't questioning what kind of sight it is, but how it's mounted. Seems like it's way high on the slide for some reason. And the blade is completely jacked up in the back too. As for the trigger, there are aluminum inserts that are as long as that one. For $5k plus, I'd expect better parts selection.
  6. Doesn't seem like a very good deal for a used item. Around $5k would be more reasonable, but even that's a lot more than I'd be willing to pay. Also not impressed with that design. Why is the rear sight up so high like that? Looks like it's practically sitting on top of the slide. And a plastic trigger?
  7. The hammer in the pictures is an SV and I can assure you is plenty good for reliable sub 2# triggers. And dropping the mainspring weight is not the way to get get a good, light, consistent trigger. The correct way is to get the angles correct and surfaces to the right dimensions. A standard weight spring will give a crisper pull, better reset feel, and reliable ignition with any brand primer. As for what to use for inspection, an optical comparator is the best option if you can find one. The Brownells microscope is a decent alternative.
  8. ltdmstr

    FtF Issue

    I would also check if the AFTEC was fit properly. Just like any other extractor the only part of that should be in contact with the case is the flat behind the hook and that should be in contact with the rim. The hook should not be in contact with the case bevel or anything else. If it is, that can impede feeding.
  9. ltdmstr

    2011 Open Gun Main Spring

    Do a proper trigger job and use a 19# spring. You'll have a crisper trigger, better reset and no ignition issues.
  10. Better answer is "not at this time." There very well could be by the match date.
  11. ltdmstr

    .223 precision bolt gun

    I can set you up with a full custom R700 built by Long Rifles Inc. on AI chassis, etc. if you're interested. Just sent you a pm with details.
  12. ltdmstr

    Extended firing pin experiences

    The extra power fp spring is a good idea bc the longer firing pin increases the risk of an inertia AD if the gun is dropped. Re: titanium firing pins, I don't see how that's going to help the situation bc less mass means means less impact on the primer. Also, an XL firing pin is unnecessary if you have a trigger that's done correctly, which means you don't need an excessively light mainspring to get the pull weight down.
  13. ltdmstr

    Freedom Gunworks Beavertail Grip Plug

    Not digging the shape of that at all. Looks like an exact copy of the newer style Ed Brown beavertail (which is not as high cut or wide as the old style). How is it any different than a pinned or non-functioning grip safety?
  14. ltdmstr

    Nowlin Arms

    Guess I am. Good to know. Thanks.
  15. ltdmstr

    Nowlin Arms

    Yeah, I remember at the old shop they had that fixture in a tiny closet-like space shooting down a tube. Must have been pretty damn loud in there with an open gun.
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