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ltdmstr

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About ltdmstr

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    Beyond it All

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    Chicago IL
  • Real Name
    Aaron Broaddus

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  1. Any smart prosecutor who's bringing charges related to a shooting is going question the fact that a safety feature was modified or removed. Maybe the fact that you removed those series 80 parts doesn't make one bit of difference in what went down. The problem is, once the prosecutor argues that it does, the burden shifts to the shooter to show otherwise. And then it's up to the jury, most or all of which probably know little or nothing about firearms, to decide which argument is credible. Do you really want to be in that position? Same goes for those who think it's a good idea to shoot reload for self defense. The best thing you can do is use a stock gun with factory ammo. That removes the entire scenario from the equation. If you don't believe me, ask a lawyer. Don't go by what the gun writers/bloggers have to say.
  2. If you want Surefire, I would go with the SOCOM brake and use the Warden diffuser when you're on the line.
  3. I'm not sure what supporting USPSA has to do with barrel quality. If you have some facts to back it up, that would be helpful.
  4. That's pretty subjective. There are plenty others that are just as good, if not better: Bar-Sto, Nowlin, Kart, SV, KKM, etc. As for Schuemann, if he's still alive, he must be way up there in age. Last time I saw him was probably 20+ years ago, and I'd guess he was mid-60s or older then.
  5. like he said, oil and steel wool to remove it. then use barricade by birchwood casey to protect it.
  6. Why aren't you doing the reaming before nitriding? I always put some rounds down range to test and make sure everything is set up correctly before blasting and finishing. Then I polish the chamber after finishing. As for carbide reamers, I don't think you're going to find any. Most likely the PTG statements means they can make them if you want to buy a certain quantity, not just one. But it doesn't hurt to ask. Manson's catalog doesn't mention carbide reamers, nor does Clymer's. But Clymer's are a Cobalt mix, so that's probably your best off-the-shelf option.
  7. Warrren Haynes & Gov't Mule @ Riviera Theatre, Chicago last Friday.
  8. As zzt stated, it's not a big deal. Optimally, I would go with an exact fit for the length, as there's no real downside to doing that. But the upper and lower lugs, plus the sides of the hood are far more important than the length. The reason is, accuracy comes from secure lockup and repeatability. Once the barrel is securely locked in the lugs, the hood length really doesn't matter. If you're stuck on it, you can weld the hood and recut it. But personally, I wouldn't bother. Just be more careful with the rest of the fitting and be sure to get that right.
  9. Poor design is what it is. The fact that both cracked in the same spot pretty much proves the point. Round count isn't a factor. Plus it's a Limited gun. There's really no excuse for them to break where they did.
  10. +1 on Barricade (formerly known as Sheath). Pretty much all my new builds I shoot in the white for a while before I send them off for finishing and I always use this stuff on them and have never had an issue with rust. It's a great product.
  11. For a 4.5" barrel, you'll have to use a 5" rod (cut down) and a Commander length plug. Or better yet, I would section and TiG weld a 5" plug, then cut the shoulder to the standard depth.
  12. If you're going to go to 4.5 inches a Commander guide rod is going to be too short because those are 4.25". But you can get a 5" and cut it down. You'll probably have to redrill the hole for the takedown pin and you'll probably also have to cut the shoulder for the reverse plug deeper as well.
  13. ltdmstr

    Dyekem

    I think the dykem product name for that is hi-spot.
  14. Highly unlikely it's going to come apart in your hand. But if that is a crack, it's just going to get worse with time/use. So best to have it addressed now. Unfortunately, from what STI has become, this isn't surprising. Chances are they'll replace the gun with a new one as they seem to do that quite often.
  15. ltdmstr

    Dyekem

    As mach1 says, you're going to have some contact on those surfaces no matter what you do. So, I wouldn't bother with the dykem. Just polish all the contact surfaces and you'll be good to go. 400 grit is adequate, but you can go finer if you want.
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