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ltdmstr

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About ltdmstr

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    Beyond it All

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    Chicago IL
  • Real Name
    Aaron Broaddus

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  1. So basically, if it's a gun they built that's worn or needs warranty repair, they'll handle it. If you have one that's been jacked by the owner or someone other than the factory, they're not going to mess with it. Seems pretty reasonable to me.
  2. Double drop is due to resistance in the dropper. Try adjusting the collator angle/location so there's no tension on the spring tube. Some people add rubber bands or weights to assist.
  3. Like anything else, if you manufacture a part and someone gets hurt or suffers damages using it, they could come after you. If the part is dangerous, or you fail to provide adequate warnings, you could be liable. If the end user does something stupid and suffers harm, then probably not. But even in the latter case, that doesn't mean they won't try. Best bet if you're going to manufacture and sell something commercially is to take precautions to protect yourself. That typically includes setting up a separate legal entity, purchasing insurance, etc.
  4. On some frames the channels on the side where the grip mounts are on a very slightly different angle than the mating surface on the grip. If the grip is forced on to mate with the flat surface at the top without enough clearance in those side channels, it puts tremendous stress right at that radius where this grip cracked. So I would say chances are pretty good this was a fitment issue. Or that combined with the grip being weak in that area.
  5. AFTECs are pretty hard steel. They're not supposed to be bent, like a standard extractor. That's why the springs are there. If it was bent or modified, that's probably when it cracked. Just took a while before it actually migrated through and failed entirely. It's a terrific product when used as intended.
  6. Delrin would be a good choice, although significantly more expensive than the cheap plastic used for the PP. It can be machined to close tolerance, is dimensionally stable, and is durable. It also happens to be what was used for the PAL filler. That has an aluminum handle and Delrin body.
  7. Been using AFTECs since they came on the market prob. 20 yrs ago. I run both springs and never change them. Never have a problem.
  8. That's great. Hope they're the same as the original. Mine is Rolls Royce quality compared to PP. And it works 100%, even with Winchester primers.
  9. Well, I had one and tried all the fixes, except scoring the feed ramp. It didn't work. And I had zero confidence that if I got it to work, it would keep working and last a reasonable amount of time considering how it was built. You're correct that it's a simple mechanism. If it were made from quality parts it probably would be a nice device, and probably work great and last a long time. But it's made from cheap, delicate parts. That little rod that works the hammer is thinner than a paper clip. The "hammer" is a thin piece of plastic that probably weighs a fraction of an ounce. It's like buying a tool at the Dollar Store and expecting it's going to work as well or last as long as a quality Snap-On tool. It won't. So if you did get yours to work, that's great. That doesn't change the fact that it's a cheap piece of junk.
  10. At 60k pcs/yr, I'd go for the big one just for the time savings. The small one will definitely get the job done, but you're going to have a pretty good time investment with that much brass.
  11. They're really pretty easy to work on. I have three RL1050s that I bought used and rebuilt. All are running great.
  12. When I lived in a one bedroom apartment I had a 1050 mounted on a night stand next to the bed. My wife would actually sleep through my reloading except when the primer alarm went off. At that point, she'd just roll over and yell at me to fill the tube then go back to sleep.
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