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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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    Aaron Broaddus

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Beyond it All

Beyond it All (9/11)

  1. You also want to make sure the spring tube is slack enough that it doesn't cause any resistance to the movement of the dropper. If it does, you'll get doubles. It's critical that the dropper moves freely with no hangups.
  2. The black part I made from flat stock (11g steel) to mount on the bottom of the collator in place of the rods that came with it. It's shaped to clear the motor and has threaded holes that match up with those in the bottom plate of the collator. The stainless swivel portion I bought online. It mounts on the post and allows me to adjust the angle of the collator with that one socket head cap screw.
  3. Depends on how solid your press is mounted. I initially had mine on a makeshift bench, so the whole thing tended to vibrate with each stroke and rotation. If the vibration is bad enough it can affect the feed and flip functions of the MBF. Personally, I finally got around to building a big bench to fit all my machines and now everything is rock solid and bolted to the wall. So nothing vibrates at all. I did the stand alone mounts because I never liked the Rube Goldberg hockey puck design or having the thing hanging off the case feeder. Plus, adjusting it was a pain in the butt. With the stand alone mounts I built, I can rotate or remove the entire collator by loosening a single set screw, and I can adjust the angle of the collator with a single cap screw. Plus, I like how it looks.
  4. Like he said, works better off the press with no vibration. There are a couple of threads showing different variations of stand alone mounts like above. Below are some photos of my setup. Prior to this I had them mounted on the case feed at about 10 o'clock so towards the back. But I don't think the actual location is too critical. The main concern is the angle of the collator and that usually takes some trial and error to dial in.
  5. So, is less recoil the real driver for this, or is just to have the latest fancy toy? I have a GMR-15 that I built from a JP upper/lower set, bolt, etc. and the rest my combination of parts. It runs 100% and recoil is nonexistent. I just don't see how anyone without some type of physical impairment would have a problem with recoil from a pcc shooting minor power factor ammo. So, I'm guessing it's the latter.
  6. I lay my cases flat on a large cookie sheet and spray them. Then I put them in a bucket and toss them around. The lube gets distributed just fine, and none is on the inside of the cases.
  7. Yes, you're correct. I misstated. The formula is for free recoil energy. So it's actual, not perceived. And from what I recall, for a given bullet weight and velocity (power factor) the only variable that changes the amount of free recoil energy is gas velocity, with gas higher velocity producing less recoil energy.
  8. It's a pretty simple task. And at $45, paying someone to do it is still going to be way cheaper than a new barrel. Also, depending on what he's looking for, a new barrel may not be a viable option. I've been looking for a decent quality 14.5" 5.56 barrel for close to a year now. Still can't find one.
  9. Not sure what the CZ discussion has to do with OP's question. Or 1911-style pistols for that matter.
  10. Faster burning powder typically produces less felt recoil. That's why the standard for limited guns has always been fast powder + heavy bullet. And that's not my opinion, it's science. The formula is on SAAMI's web site if you want to confirm.
  11. The photo I posted above is from Adco. They do nice work. I think they charge $45 to remove a pinned and welded muzzle device.
  12. So, is it really any different than the BS and other books out there? Seems like they're all pretty much the same stuff just organized and/or presented in a different way.
  13. Best way to do it is to mill the muzzle device down to the base of the threads like in the photo. If you don't get down far enough to remove the entire length of the pin, you'll make a huge mess of the threads when you crank it off, and won't be able to attach another device.
  14. Not sure what you mean by "well crimped" but the "crimp" should be barely more than what it takes to remove the flare from the case. Maybe .001" or .002" under. Going beyond that doesn't do anything good, and after a point, can be detrimental.
  15. Just curious as to who did the work. I've had quite a few guns done by H&M and never had a problem. They also do a lot of OEM stuff, like Defiance rifle actions that have very tight tolerances and see pressures way beyond typical handgun rounds.
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