Alw041 Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 (edited) Anyone have a link to a video or a write up on how to polishing the factory magazine tube? Edited March 14, 2015 by Alw041 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 I took it out this morning. I bought about 6 different 2 3/4 shells to run through the gun for some testing. I used the gun pretty straight out of the box. I didn't even clean the grease or lube it. It ran 2 3/4 dram rio, remington, winchester 1 1/8oz - 7/8oz shot perfectly. It didn't like federal though. Federal 2 3/4 dram 1oz and 7/8oz shot would either FTF or FTE. Keep in mind that the manual says it is intended for 3dram loads, and this forum generally advises that for all inertia guns. You may get it to work that way, mind works with 2 3/4's dram as well, but it probably pushing it and I wouldn't use that in a match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Remember that with inertia guns, good technique with low draw loads can stall the gun. A "softer" shoulder might let you drop a 1/4 dram, but you might be on the edge, and a "softer" shoulder is also slower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMoses Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 the extractor has pulled the rim of the case partially from the hull. Clarify this for us, is the case head separating from the hull or are you saying that the case and hull are only being partially extracted from the chamber (but still fully connected to each other)? The metal is seperating from the plastic hull. The shell only extracts enough that the bolt wont completly close. Other than that ive had no other issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Punkface Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) Anyone have a link to a video or a write up on how to polishing the factory magazine tube? I used 200, 400, 600, then 2000 grit sandpaper in that order. Kept it nice and wet with rem oil and just kept going back and forth until it was uniform all the way around. Took me about half hour roughly by hand. Long nice even strokes with the sand paper wrapped around the tube. Edit: shooting the everloving piss out of it will polish it over time too. Edited March 15, 2015 by Punkface Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhr1986 Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 the extractor has pulled the rim of the case partially from the hull. Clarify this for us, is the case head separating from the hull or are you saying that the case and hull are only being partially extracted from the chamber (but still fully connected to each other)? The metal is seperating from the plastic hull. The shell only extracts enough that the bolt wont completly close. Other than that ive had no other issues. I'd wait for the experts to chime it (I'm not one of them, I don't even own a Stoeger) but that sounds like an ammo or chamber issue to me. My guess is that the extractor is fine, but as the hull and case head partially separate, it (the case) is bending and slipping out from under the extractor thus leaving part of the hull in the chamber. My first course of action would be to check the chamber for any roughness or burrs that are providing extra friction on the hull (or maybe just polish the chamber) and then also try some different ammo as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alw041 Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I took it out this morning. I bought about 6 different 2 3/4 shells to run through the gun for some testing. I used the gun pretty straight out of the box. I didn't even clean the grease or lube it. It ran 2 3/4 dram rio, remington, winchester 1 1/8oz - 7/8oz shot perfectly. It didn't like federal though. Federal 2 3/4 dram 1oz and 7/8oz shot would either FTF or FTE. Keep in mind that the manual says it is intended for 3dram loads, and this forum generally advises that for all inertia guns. You may get it to work that way, mind works with 2 3/4's dram as well, but it probably pushing it and I wouldn't use that in a match. That is good to know. I will probably stick with 3dram loads then. Does shot size make a difference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I took it out this morning. I bought about 6 different 2 3/4 shells to run through the gun for some testing. I used the gun pretty straight out of the box. I didn't even clean the grease or lube it. It ran 2 3/4 dram rio, remington, winchester 1 1/8oz - 7/8oz shot perfectly. It didn't like federal though. Federal 2 3/4 dram 1oz and 7/8oz shot would either FTF or FTE. Keep in mind that the manual says it is intended for 3dram loads, and this forum generally advises that for all inertia guns. You may get it to work that way, mind works with 2 3/4's dram as well, but it probably pushing it and I wouldn't use that in a match. That is good to know. I will probably stick with 3dram loads then. Does shot size make a difference? No. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtm Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 JMoses, Jhr1986 more than likely has the right answer. this is indicative of a chamber problem....ONLY IF....ONLY IF....it does this with other shells as well. Many times a shell head separation indicates a bad run of hulls, but if it does it with more than one type of ammo or several lots of the same type of ammo you have a chamber problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minicz Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Taking my Stoeger apart today for a cleaning before a match in Missouri next weekend and the locking head pin fell out of the bolt before I removed the firing pin retaining pin.... I cleaned and lubed everything up and upon reassembly the locking head pin just keeps falling out. Is this normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minicz Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I should say that it falls out when i depress the bolt face, otherwise it stays in. Sorry if if my question is stupid, I just don't remember the pin falling out so easily in the past...... I need a beer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMoses Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 JMoses, Jhr1986 more than likely has the right answer. this is indicative of a chamber problem....ONLY IF....ONLY IF....it does this with other shells as well. Many times a shell head separation indicates a bad run of hulls, but if it does it with more than one type of ammo or several lots of the same type of ammo you have a chamber problem. Thanks, I will go tomorrow and grab a variety of shells to test out. Is there anything I should look for in the chamber it feels smooth and I see no rough spots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigcalidave Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Taking my Stoeger apart today for a cleaning before a match in Missouri next weekend and the locking head pin fell out of the bolt before I removed the firing pin retaining pin.... I cleaned and lubed everything up and upon reassembly the locking head pin just keeps falling out. Is this normal? From the factory those are staked, if you took it out, then yes it can fall out fairly easily. It can't go anywhere when assembled in the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minicz Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Ok, that's what I was thinking. Thanks bigcalidave. I put the gun back together and everything seemed to function properly but I don't have a chance to shoot it before the match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightshot627 Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 (edited) I picked up a M3000 Saturday. I had already ordered a tube from Carbon Arm and double headed safety, charging handle and bolt release from MOA. I’ve watched Jesse’s video on enlarging the port 10 times and I’m looking forward to sending the wife and kids away and spending some quality time with it. One of the things that lead me to the M3000 was that I already had a M3500 for hunting. Looking at the trigger groups side by side they are identical with the exception of the lifter length. Numrich has M3500 lifters for $15.55 plus $6.50 shipping so $22.05. I think I can just cut the thumb peeler off the M3500 lifter, clean it up and drop it into the M3000 for a low cost extended lifter. That beats sending it off for welding for $60 or TTI for $80. Am I crazy or will that work? Thanks, Walt Edited March 16, 2015 by eightshot627 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 I am very interested in the idea of a $15 extended lifter. Mine will catch me about 2-3% of the time which is more than I like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 It does require a slight bend after shortening like the TTI, or you will get occasional hang-ups on the edge of the chamber. The radius at the end of the lifter centers the shell when the lifter is up. If you just cut the end off square, the shell can move side-to-side on the lifter as it chambers. We are working on a stamping die to convert 3500 lifters in the near future, as we came to the same conclusion, but during testing found that just cutting it off square creates feed issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonora88 Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Tom are you still taking orders? I called and left a message Friday on your phone, and have not heard back from you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Our answering machine is on the fritz, and cutting off all messages at 10 seconds. We got the new phone system in, but haven't had time to install it yet. Please shoot me an email at tomh@moaprecisionllc.com and I will get back to you asap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eightshot627 Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 It does require a slight bend after shortening like the TTI, or you will get occasional hang-ups on the edge of the chamber. The radius at the end of the lifter centers the shell when the lifter is up. If you just cut the end off square, the shell can move side-to-side on the lifter as it chambers. We are working on a stamping die to convert 3500 lifters in the near future, as we came to the same conclusion, but during testing found that just cutting it off square creates feed issues. It figures I wouldn't come up with a original thought. So the slight bend is to center the shell on the lifter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonora88 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Our answering machine is on the fritz, and cutting off all messages at 10 seconds. We got the new phone system in, but haven't had time to install it yet. Please shoot me an email at tomh@moaprecisionllc.com and I will get back to you asap Email Sent! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CyclicRate Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Our answering machine is on the fritz, and cutting off all messages at 10 seconds. We got the new phone system in, but haven't had time to install it yet. Please shoot me an email at tomh@moaprecisionllc.com and I will get back to you asap I know you're busy, but I never got an email back on the possible in stock +7 tube for my build. Shoot me an email or private message. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moose76 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Looking at the trigger groups side by side they are identical with the exception of the lifter length. Numrich has M3500 lifters for $15.55 plus $6.50 shipping so $22.05. I think I can just cut the thumb peeler off the M3500 lifter, clean it up and drop it into the M3000 for a low cost extended lifter. That beats sending it off for welding for $60 or TTI for $80. Am I crazy or will that work? Thanks, Walt Has anyone else done this? Any pictures out there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jshubes22 Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 I'm having a slight problem with my newly acquired m3000. When I load the tube and then attempt to chamber a round if there is more than one round in the tube, a second round follows the first and jams itself into the first and prevents the first round from chambering. Basically a double feed. I have searched brielfy and have had no luck finding similar threads. If there is one and I missed it I apologize. I have installed the parts from the MOA kit ( minus the disconnector ), and returned the tube back to the original 4 +1 configuration and it still does the same thing. Any help from the seasoned veterans would be great. i will admit I am a newbie to shotguns, i acquired this one for what i thought was a decent price and just trying to get it up and running for some clay shooting and possibly a 3gun match for fun. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 How are you dropping a round on the lifter? If you use the bolt release that will happen. If you use the shell release above the trigger (or press the trigger) it shouldn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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