Barracuda Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Having a hard time finding either spring. The stock spring isn't strong enough to work with the Benelli extractor correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Midwest Gunworks has them in stock, but spendy. Always search by the Benelli part numbers since they interchange with other guns. For instance, Midway had the springs under PN 70038 listed at two prices for two different groups of guns. But it is the SAME Benelli number. They had the more expensive one in stock a few days ago. The spring is a little stronger than the Stoeger spring. The extractor is nominally the same (Benelli PN 60177), but occasional variations in the chamfer on the hook and the heat-treatment is what makes the M3000 need replacement. The Benelli spring gives slightly more tension under either extractor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prknives Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) hey guys wanted to throw up a couple pics of my m3000 and what I've done so far, I turned a bolt handle out of steel rod, I plan on making a titanium one to match my bolt release I machined out of a piece of titanium bar. I did some work to the loading port and polished it up tonight,I didn't go to crazy with it just rounded the edge,and to top it off added I a nordic comp +6tube with an moa nut and nordic clamp, hopefully the links to pics work, thanks for checking it out. Oh and its a 28" https://plus.google.com/107278426081714984852/posts/fNT8CXSZWpD https://plus.google.com/107278426081714984852/posts/BTe43PFtWW8 https://plus.google.com/107278426081714984852/posts/ServfpJHiG3 https://plus.google.com/107278426081714984852/posts/KpDRz3563mA https://plus.google.com/107278426081714984852/posts/McYPmd1tSPU Edited February 27, 2015 by Prknives Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliney00 Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 good looking work prknives, I ended up making my bolt handle and bolt release as well, but after playing for a while I never ended up using the handle, I have to go back and come up with something I like a bit more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prknives Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 Same here I built one and now I have to make a better one lol it always happens Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barracuda Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 As far as barrel clamps go, is the Nordic one the way to go? Just ordered a +9 kit from you, Tom, so a barrel clamp would put my mind at ease with a tube that long. However, I've read clamps can mess with your slug zero and POI in general. Any experience with this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willz Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 (edited) As far as barrel clamps go, is the Nordic one the way to go? Just ordered a +9 kit from you, Tom, so a barrel clamp would put my mind at ease with a tube that long. However, I've read clamps can mess with your slug zero and POI in general. Any experience with this? That is why Nordic will tell you to tighten the barrel nut nice and snug then back it off a1/4 to 1/2 turn then install and tighten the clamp. Allows the mag tube enough play that the clamp doesn't stress or deflect the barrel. Also I'd say get two shorter Nordic tubes and a coupler if you plan on traveling with your shotgun. Allows you to take just the end tube off for easier packing. My M2 fits a bit too snugly in my Pelican 1750 for my liking with a +9 tube. Edited February 28, 2015 by Willz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 I run a +9 without a clamp, and have since the beginning. The center-to-center spacing on the Nordic clamp is not exactly the same as the Stoeger, so the tube and/ or the barrel will flex. Even with the tube loosened, POI will shift significantly if you remove the clamp. Put it on if you need a sling point, but mark the barrel and tube so that the clamp goes back on in EXACTLY the same spot when you remove it for cleaning. Also recommend using a torque wrench. Otherwise you will have to confirm POI with slugs every time the gun comes apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Since the benneli clamp isnt just right for the M3000, I used some camowrap tape on the top of the tube to shim it into place with the clamp. I dont take it off though. I simply run a bore snake for the barrel and take the end cap off the mag tube. I suppose if I have malfunctions ill take the barrel off. But i havent shot the gun enough (~500 rounds) for it to get really dirty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 At some point you must grease the cam pin in the bolt, or it will wear. Or just squirt CLP in the ejection port like everyone else haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barracuda Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 I was honestly just wanting the barrel clamp to secure the long tube to the barrel, but if you've been running a +9 without one, and haven't had any problems dumping your shotguns into the countless barrels, I think I'll be fine. I don't need a sling point or anything of that nature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 I toss it all the time and my shotgun is HEAVY...... Arredondo funnel, optic, etc. MXT tubes are burly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 I toss it all the time and my shotgun is HEAVY...... Arredondo funnel, optic, etc. MXT tubes are burly! How burly is the factory tube though? That would be what would worry me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 The factory tube is well supported by the barrel bracket, and is steel. The threaded joint is the weakest link in the system, which is why we machine to tighter thread tolerance than the factory cap to increase surface area. The MXT tube has threads but also a parallel shank area inside the nut to support it as well. The assembly is tough, it would take some serious abuse to make it fail Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barracuda Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Well, that settles it for me. Sounds like a barrel clamp, especially one that doesn't exactly fit the M3000, would do more harm than good. Pat, although it's a couple years old. your article on chokes helped me out a lot. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5hawn Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Picked up an M3000 a few months back and found this thread when looking for an extension tube. Seems I have a lot of catching up to do. MOA doesn't have the +5 tube, so is Nordic the best site to get a +5 and compatible adaptor nut? BTW, my M3000 runs flawlessly with light (sub-spec) target loads. It didn't when new, but after a box of hunting loads and a few boxes of spec target loads, it's been great. The thread has me concerned about POA/POI, so I'll have to put some slugs through it and see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prknives Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Hey has Anyone had cycling issues with their m3000? Was shooting trap tonight and I wouldn't fully cycle any shells back, only enough to eject the shell. I was using federal 2 3/4 dram 7 1/2 shot 1 1/8 ounce. I've used that ammo last week from the same case with no issues. I cleaned it and shot 1 box of remington and some slugs on Sunday and now have this problem. I've had the gun since December and shot atleast 100rds a week since then with no issues. Going to take apart tonight a clean hopefully that solves it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.E. Kelley Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 We (you) should NOT expect a inertia driven shotgun to run on 2 3/4 dram loads. Yes they can and do run once broken in (yours is) but at that low power level an occasional issue will crop up. What ammo? Wally World el cheapo? Then that is just a condition of use. Beyond that let us know how it runs after your clean and lube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prknives Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 It was federal, and I've shot that ammo plenty (I shoot on my high school trap team) what was weird was I also tried a 3dram and it still had the same issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oskino Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Can someone give the best course of action to drive out the retaing pin for the extractor..... Also with common household tools Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nebwake Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Do you have a set of roll punches? If not harbor freight sells an acceptable set foress than $10. Get a no mar urethane hammer while you are there for the inevitable time pounding on guns that you will miss and smack the gun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 It was federal, and I've shot that ammo plenty (I shoot on my high school trap team) what was weird was I also tried a 3dram and it still had the same issue Check to make sure the barrel is tight. There is a little plastic lip at the back of the hand guard, which fits in a groove at the front of the receiver. If is does not seat properly the retainer nut will get tight while the barrel is still slightly loose. If the barrel is not clamped tight against the receiver it will malfunction as you describe. It sounds like the problem started when you disassembled it, so I would look for this first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Can someone give the best course of action to drive out the retaing pin for the extractor..... Also with common household tools You need a skinny ( about 1/16") punch. The hole is offset, so you can only push on about half of the pin until it is part way out. Then use smooth pliers to pull it out once the end is visible. Stoegers use a sold pin here vs a roll pin an a Benelli. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
openclassterror Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Picked up an M3000 a few months back and found this thread when looking for an extension tube. Seems I have a lot of catching up to do. MOA doesn't have the +5 tube, so is Nordic the best site to get a +5 and compatible adaptor nut? BTW, my M3000 runs flawlessly with light (sub-spec) target loads. It didn't when new, but after a box of hunting loads and a few boxes of spec target loads, it's been great. The thread has me concerned about POA/POI, so I'll have to put some slugs through it and see. We have +5 tubes en route from Nordic. They are in the process of moving, so your order from them may take a week or better to ship. Hopefully they get back on track soon, as we are experiencing inventory issues due to the increased lead time from their shipping dept. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prknives Posted March 3, 2015 Share Posted March 3, 2015 Thanks, the barrel was definetly tight, the weird thing was I had shot it the day before with lighter loads and they seemed to cycle ok and anything else I used worked perfectly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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