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Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?


Hotchkiss

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Will you or do you need to add a coupling / clamp to the end of the tube to attach it to the barrel?

No need. The stainless tube goes all the way to the nut and has better threads than the stock tube, they are pretty strong. The Carbon Arms tube threads directly into the receiver with no intermediate threads, which is unique and why they are stronger than anything else.

Edited by MarkCO
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So what do you attach it to in the front of a shotgun?

I've never actually tried one, but my shotgun has the Nordic clamp between the barrel and extension that I suspect would work well. Like Barracuda said, just around the extended tube *should* also work. I agree that just around the barrel would probably be less than ideal. If you watch the YouTube video on how he puts it on an AR it might inspire other better ideas.

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That carbon arms tube looks great. Is a 12 round tube not an option with the mono tube?

We sell our tubes with capacity from 8 to 12 rounds. You can always add more if you so choose.

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Howdy all. I just bought my M3000 and will be ordering a tube and some other parts for it as play money allows. I have polished up the tube on it now and was planning on opening the loading port. However before I do I want to know if I should practice and learn double loading before opening it? I would think that it would help me out to open it and learn that way from the beginning. I have large hands and intend to learn quad loading but I have to crawl before I run. Thanks for the advise. -Bob

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Apparently, I have the larger mag tube threads. Nordic sent me a larger nut to replace the first one for my +5 tube and it threaded on fine.

BTW, I tried the stock spring out of curiosity (with low drag follower) and it worked fine with 50 rounds of 2-3/4 1-1/8 Rios shooting fully loaded to empty each before reloading.

Wish I had read about the bolt trick to pull the stock spring out. I compressed the stock spring with a plastic punch while using lock ring pliers to compress it and yank it out. There were no tabs to grind off.

Still need to check POA but was throwing clays to try things out and crushing them well enough with the extra-full choke in there.

Edited by 5hawn
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Ran about 100 rounds through the M3000 today. I had multiple FTEs but while mag dumping and shooting Rio, so I can't really blame the gun for that. Still, I might throw in the Benelli extractor and spring before the match this weekend.

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Ran about 100 rounds through the M3000 today. I had multiple FTEs but while mag dumping and shooting Rio, so I can't really blame the gun for that. Still, I might throw in the Benelli extractor and spring before the match this weekend.

Do it. Some of them need it immediately. I have zero issues since that change.

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After a few thousand rounds my M3000 seems to have developed an extraction problem. A quick look around BE tells me that I need to get a Benelli M2 extractor and spring. I managed to track down an extractor, but no on one earth seems to have a spring in stock (I went 20 pages deep on a search). I called Benelli, and they said they only deal through Brownells. However, Brownells does not have them in stock, and the page with a schematic of the bolt assembly says that the spring is factory discontinued.

So, does anyone know where I may be able to get my hands on one?

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After a few thousand rounds my M3000 seems to have developed an extraction problem. A quick look around BE tells me that I need to get a Benelli M2 extractor and spring. I managed to track down an extractor, but no on one earth seems to have a spring in stock (I went 20 pages deep on a search). I called Benelli, and they said they only deal through Brownells. However, Brownells does not have them in stock, and the page with a schematic of the bolt assembly says that the spring is factory discontinued.

So, does anyone know where I may be able to get my hands on one?

PM me your address and I will send you one as a warranty part. It is the gun that we built for you after Ironman last year, correct?

Edited by openclassterror
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Just out of curiosity, where are M3k's prone to rusting? I just got mine and took it out today and want to avoid this as much as possible.

Mine was on the rear of the barrel and on the vent rib. And i've gotta say, it's like they used watercolor paint to finish the barrel because damn is it fragile. Just scrubbing the rusted area with white vinegar and some foil already started to take the finish off. I'll partly blame myself because of the acidity of the vinegar and the abrasiveness of the foil, but I've never seen that happen when using that method to remove rust. Might hit it with some Aervoe or Aluma-Hyde to reinforce it.

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People who have a problem with it typically have rust on the magazine tube and the barrel. Wipe it down with a decent gun oil ( real oil not multipurpose like CLP) before you put it away and it shouldn't be a problem. I polish all my mag tubes and coat with oil for lubrication every 500 rds or so, so I never have rust there.

EDIT- Vinegar is used in some rust and bluing remover formulas. Not the best way to clean rust off. Ideally, use copper or brass wool soaked in gun oil or WD40 to remove surface rust.

Edited by openclassterror
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