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Can anyone here give me some input on using the Stoeger M3000 as a beginner getting involved with 3-Gun? While it's made in Turkey and not Italy, at around $450.00 is seems like a tremendous buy compared to the Benellis which share the Inertial Operating System. It comes in a 26" barrel which would be legal for 3-Gun matches here locally. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

Recently my Stoeger M3000 has been failing to fire the round in the chamber. The hammer drops, but nothing happens. I eject the shell and the primer hasn't been touched. This problem is intermittent. Usually occurring once every 25 rounds. It has always occurred on my first shot except for once when it occurred on the second. I have disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled the bolt, firing pin and trigger group. Nothing looks broken, stressed, or out of place. I've been shooting factory loads, federal field and target multi puropose load to be exact. If anyone has any knowledge on what is causing this to happen I would love to know because it has befuddled me, but I am new to shotguns. The m3000 is an inertia driven gun similar to the Benelli's of the same mechanism if you aren't familiar with the m3000 specifically. I've really gotten frustrated with this occurring during 5 stand rounds and appreciate any help and advice.

What's the difference between the compact stock and the standard? Other than price would it work to just trade stocks as opposed to cutting the standard?

I'm trying to find a recoil spring ( I hope that's the right term) for my Stoeger M3k I use for 3 gun competition. The shotgun runs fine but I want to get a backup just in case. I can't seem to find anything online however. The closest thing I found was this http://www.midwestgunworks.com/mm5/merchant.mvc? . Does the M2000 share thae same spring as the M3000/M3K?

I figured I would start a new thread rather than post in the 90+ page "Scattergun" thread. I am having multiple FTE with multiple types of ammo. Here's my vitals...M3000 24", MOA Precision competition package (minus the disconnector), +6 tube, loading port opened. I'm experiencing about a 75% FTE, ammo listed below. I know, manual says 3 dram recommended, I ran some 2.75 because I happened to have them laying around. That said, I am getting FTE with 3 dram as well. I've browsed the threads and did come across Tom's experience of a partially loose mag extension causing some FTE. After about 40 rounds, I noticed mine was loose by about 1/2 turn...still getting FTE after tightening. To clarify, my FTEs are about a 60/40 split of either the spent hull being extracted from the chamber and hanging up on the ejection port or the spent hull still in the chamber. When the hull remains in the chamber, I am able to remove it by removing the new shell on the lifter, cycling the bolt, then the spent hull ejects. In both cases, there is always a new round waiting on the lifter. Fired and un fired shells slide freely in and out of the chamber by hand. I'm hoping mine isn't one that's going to require an M2 extractor right out of the box. All together, I've got just under 200 rounds through it. Nothing appears abnormal on the rim of the spent shells and no noticeable burrs in the chamber. The "ramp" in the barrel where the extractor rides does appear rough, but no burrs on the extractor. Here's the ammo I was using: WIN Heavy Lead Load- 3DR , 1 1/8oz, 1200 fps, 7.5 shot - 80% FTE REM Game Loads- Dram not on box, I'd guess 3DR, 1oz, 1290fps, 7.5 shot - 75% FTE RIO Target Load- 3DR, 1oz, 1280fps, 8 shot - 95% FTE (I know, RIO) Estate - 2.75DR, 1 1/8oz, 1145fps, 7.5 shot - 75% FTE (I know, Estate) FED Target Load - 3DR, 1 1/8oz, 1200fps, 7.5 shot - 80% FTE FED Multipurpose Load and FED Field and Target worked the "best"- 3DR, 1 1/8oz, 7.5 shot - only about 25% FTE WIN Super X 2.75" OO- 0% FTE S&B 3" OO- 0% FTE So, in hopes of shooting my first TAC Shotgun match tomorrow, today I picked up: WIN Super X Upland and Small Game- 1 1/8oz, 1255fps, 7.5 shot Estate heavy Game Load- 1 1/8oz, 3.25DR, 1255fps, 7.5 shot (I know, Estate again, but hoping the 3.25DR will work) WIN AA Super Sport (clays)- 1 1/8oz, 3.25DR, 1300fps, 7.5 shot Am I spinning my wheels here fishing for the right ammo? Should I just plan on an M2 extractor? Will the 3.25DR ammo help my FTE enough where I can shoot a match, or back to the drawing board? I've browsed the threads here a lot and am hoping for a little guidance. Thanks in advance!

Did a mild port job to test out using a jig with a dremel. Have never ported a shotgun before and did not want the have the dremel get loose on me. Had a little bit of chatter with a tungsten bit and and it did not have enough reach on the front by the follower and left some material. A second top mount jig could allow a more complete cut there. I did a poor job of sanding that out but felt the jig helped a lot in keeping things even and under control. Missed the rear measurement/did not extend back to the trigger enough. Free handed the inside and nicked the receiver twice. 1/4" drums worked better than 1/2"in there. I wish I had removed the mag tube and should have taped inside as well. I will probably go back and take off a little more and clean things up on round 2. Main idea was just to post this if would help others who are trying to do this themselves. Thanks to Pat, Tom and others who have shared their port photos. They helped a ton. Tried to place this in the M3000 topic but could not add pictures there. Could possibly help with other guns as well.

Okay guys I couldn't find a thread outlining my exact question and I couldn't find the info in the 104 page M3000 thread either, lol! I am about to move from 2 gun to 3 gun and through much research have decided on the Stoeger as the shotgun I am going to purchase. My issue is deciding on either the M3000 or the M3K as a more cost effective option in the long term. Through my research the M3K has an oversized safety ($35), oversized bolt release ($20), charging handle ($30), and an opened up loading port ($120). All for an extra $100 over the M3000. I plan on having MOA precision open up the loading port even more so the money I would save on that is gone. So essentially im paying an extra $100 for $85 in parts from MOA. Seems to me that if im looking at this correctly I should just go with the M3000 and send it to MOA for some work and save a few bucks, right?

Took my wife along to the Johnson 3 gun match this past weekend and now I am no longer getting a new shotgun for myself, she wants one. The budget is going to allow either a pretty much stock Beretta 1301 or Stoeger M3000 worked over into the P3K when the design is finalized. These 2 guns are picked because they are: 1. The 2 I was already looking at for myself. 2. Reliable and budget friendly. 3. Not heavy guns. This leads me to a few questions. While not terribly recoil sensitive, is the 1301 gas system going to be noticeably softer shooting than the inertia M3K when both are properly fitted and have good recoil pads? I have already read Patrick Kelley's article on shotgun fit and have applied it to my current shotgun. She has handled both guns in stock form but not shot them. Currently holding a 1301 she has to turn her head almost sideways and scrunch down to even sort of get on the sights. The stock needs to drop a good bit and some cast off be applied to even get her close. The long LOP of the stock M3K make other adjustments irrelevant to start. Between the 1301 and the M3K, which has more adjustment for drop and cast or will they both be about the same? My plan is to get either shotgun and the shim kit and attempt to properly fit it before she ever fires the gun. LOP will be cut to 12.5 inches with recoil pad installed. This will hopefully allow me to correct pitch with shims as well cast and drop while still maintaining a shorter LOP. I'm just guessing that proper LOP will come out to between 12.5 and 13 inches based of stock adjustments made to shotguns when I was growing up. My shotgun now has a 13 1/4 length of pull which is far to long for her. Any advice on this plan would be greatly appreciated.