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New here so if this isn't the appropriate page please let me know. Does anyone have any firsthand experience with the MOA Precision AutoLoad lifter or any new info on the J Kenny Co lifter coming out soon? Thanks

Can anyone here give me some input on using the Stoeger M3000 as a beginner getting involved with 3-Gun? While it's made in Turkey and not Italy, at around $450.00 is seems like a tremendous buy compared to the Benellis which share the Inertial Operating System. It comes in a 26" barrel which would be legal for 3-Gun matches here locally. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

I just got my open shotgun. Haven't had a chance to shoot it due to an Injury but this week I am feeling it will happen. It's a 21" Benelli m2 with xrail(26rd) and couple other mods. What ammo are u guys using? I am down to try a bunch of different ones but want to narrow it down while purchasing. I currently use federal cheap stuff in my 26" m2 set up for practical and Winchester hp deer slugs 1600fps with good luck. So I will try those. But let me know what u guys run. Thanks

My M2 bolt started staying to the rear with a shell on the carrier, ive tried all the fixes [ i think] new mag spring, longer follower [OR3Gun] thinking the nose of the shell was catching on the lip coming out the tube, I took it apart to polish the bolt release lever another fix I found here, thats when i noticed the groove made by the rim o \f the shell as it rubbed against the side of the receiver along its path out the tube and up into position to be chambered, Im guessing less than 5000 rounds this cant be normal!? anyone else out there have this problem, whats the fix? Ive polished the groove and tapered it which has helped but i need to stop it from getting worse!

So I have a taccom stage/match saver I recently installed on my m2 and having done a lot of practice with it I have realized a problem and was wondering if anyone had a working solution. The issue is if the shell is loaded and the shotgun is pointed in a downward angle the shell goes forward under the chamber causing a jam. The top of the shell cant lift up as its hitting the bottom of the chamber. It seems this is just a downside to this loading operation? Is it just normal practice for you to point the barrel up when doing a port load? I can see this type of jam ruining a stage. Thanks!

Can anyone point me to a shotgun case that will fit an m2 with the longest Nordic extension tube?

I'd like to ask for advice before I go and start an extravaganza of polishing parts. I ran into an issue at a match where the bolt on my M2 locks back shooting slugs (1 ounce, 1500 FPS). Pressing the bolt release does nothing and the gun has to essentially be mortared to clear the jam. I took the gun apart to check for issues. So far I have confirmed the recoil spring and recoil tube are clean and devoid of any gunk. With the trigger group out, the bolt slides back and forth with force and speed, smooth as silk. When I put the trigger group back in the gun and try to cycle the bolt, the bolt hangs at the rear of the recoil cycle. Similarly, when I lock the bolt to the rear using the cartridge drop lever and then release the bolt forward using the bolt release, the bolt very slowly starts moving forward, then about half way through the cycle the bolt goes forward more quickly like it normally should. Additionally, after pressing the bolt release and as the bolt slowly starts to move forward, the carrier will sometimes stall in the upward position and have to be gently tapped down to allow the bolt to continue forward. I used a marker to look for potential binding points between trigger group components and the bolt. It appears the bolt is contacting the front face of the hammer (hammer was locked back prior to insertion of the bolt for troubleshooting) and the front face of the breech bolt latch, both of which seem normal. The surfaces of the bolt contacting these two points also had ink removed due to contact. Visually, none of the surfaces had any burrs, excessive crud or rocks wedged in them. Has anyone ran into a similar issue? I found a couple threads from 2010 with similar issues but those were recoil spring related or solved via sending a bolt in to a gunsmith. Maybe someone could point me in another direction other than polish a couple parts and hopefully smooth out the contacting surfaces?

Benelli M2 chokes work with Beretta 1301 ? thanks

I was looking around and thinking about picking up a used Benelli M1 or M2 to set up for 3 gun. I was on Nordic's website and it looks like they share a magazine extension and bolt handle, Which leaves me with a few questions: 1. Are other parts (stocks,barrels,etc) interchangable between the models? 2. Were there any major issues with the M1 that were fixed by moving to the M2? 3. For $700 or a little less for low mileage looking M1's does it seem worth it or just get the M2? Thanks in advance for you help

I am looking to shorten the LOP on my Benelli M2 so today when I took the butt pad off I saw what looks like a second set of snaps 1" in from the end of the stock. Looking at the outside of the stock there is a visible line where this second set of 'snaps' is. Could it be as easy as just cutting off 1" and popping the butt pad back in? I did some measurements and it looks like the second set of snaps has the same width, but maybe 1/4" shorter, maybe the butt pad can conform to that? Any advice or suggestions appreciated. Mike

I hit a local shotgun match this weekend. It was the first time I've had my M2 out since last fall. Now, this is a gun that has a little under 4k rounds through it and has never had any feeding/firing issues. Before the match I did a quick field strip. The gun was still clean from last fall, the bolt and carrier looked fine, and I reoiled it to get ready for the match. On the very first stage, the first shot was click-no-bang. I limped through the stage with about every third shell misfiring. The ammo was what I always use—Winchester AA Light Target #8 birdshot and Fiocchi 7/8oz Aero slugs. I found several of the discards on the ground and saw they had extremely light dimples from the firing pin. Okay, well, I stripped the BCG down completely, expecting to find the firing pin channel gunked up. In fact, it seemed fine. There was no obvious gunk, and the pin was moving fairly freely through the bolt. It doesn't seem like it was a cleaning/oiling issue. I'll take it out in a couple of days to see if that fixed it, but... I am a little worried that it went from zero problems to basically unshootable. If the more thorough cleaning doesn't help, what else am I looking it? From previous threads, I would guess the next step is replacing the hammer spring (which nobody has in stock and, according to Midway, won't be available for shipping for two more months!) or, maybe, the recoil spring if the issue is bolt bounce. Am I missing anything else? Any other suggestions?

I have a Benelli ComforTech stock and forend. Fits models M2 and SBE II. I'm not to sure if it fits the Veramax, so you'd need to check first. $260 shipped. Paypal is easiest.