BeerBaron

Thats pretty poor. I agree that with a failed red dot less than a month old they should offer you a new replacement. Your request was reasonable.

If you don't have a mill I agree it might be easier to get someone with a mill to help. If you take too much of comp or slide it's only cosmetic but it does look a bit crummy.

Isn't it better to buy it from the guy that took the time to design it? It's only $20 for the 3 little upgrades he makes.

Small update. Pulled it apart and looked at it carefully. 1: the arm position being right out is not critical. 2: the rubber seal on mine looks to maybe have shrunk a little. I centered it up in its slot. 3: I broke open a new pack of drums and noticed 2 things. The 'large' drums I converted to small have larger larger diameter powder chambers. The little cap shortens it but it's still larger diameter than the small drums. 4: the new drums I got (bought about 3mths ago) have a roughish texture around the 'flange' surface. My older ones are smooth. The drum I had set for my autocomp load was one of the 'converted' large drums. I replaced it with a new small drum. Loaded 300 rounds. Leaking is gone. Drop seems more consistent. I had a few that were .5gn light but the drum might need a little break in. Feeling a bit more positive but not 100% there yet.

If you want to see what a 155 is like there's a cheap option. I run sti 140mm tubes with the Arredondo +4 bases (comes with a little anti tilt device too) with grams 11 coil spring and follower. That gives me 25 rounds reloadable. 13 cool spring lasts longer but you lose 1 round. If you like that size/capacity then buy the mbx 155.

So I've had one for about a year which I LOVED up till now. Btw it's running on a 650 with billet feeder. To make it fit you need: 2 x Lee powder measure risers 1x lee powder through die with appropriate caliber funnel. Ived used mine with 10 disks with different loads for: 3n38 n350 autocomp clays universal ap100 in 9mm and supercomp. Just recently I had a few instances of it throwing very light loads in 3n38 and universal. Like almost squibs. I thought maybe the little arm was moving from fully outward position so I put a bit of plastic behind it. No fix. Ive now noticed it dropping less consistent drops and occasionally really light drops. This seems to happy more if I'm cycling the press quickly. If I slow right down it seems better but slowing down is not a solution I can live with and it wasn't like this for at least 20,000 loaded rounds. Ive also now noticed its leaking some powder onto the top of the toolhead but it only seems to do this with autocomp. Its really annoying. I love being able to have one drum for every load. I love how easy it is to move between toolheads and how easy powder changes are. I love not having the clunky Dillon fail safe. But none of that helps me if it wont throw reliable charges and at a rate I like to load at (around 1,000/hour). Im currently considering buying a new one to try? Or maybe I can clean mine up somehow? the strange part is watching the measure it cycles fully (at least to my eye) every stroke. Im really sad cause I really loved this measure.

If that's in 9mm I'd start lower. I run 7.4gn autocomp in 38 supercomp and that makes 172pf with 124gn RN CMJ at 1.240 OAL. At shorter OAL and case volume in a 9mm I'd start at maybe 6.5gn?

I would strongly suggest avoid permanent target placements. I would consider getting/making: 12 target stands (that's plenty) 2 pieces of steel vision barriers (barrels are good for this, but small wall sections that are just an outline then covered with flyscreen type mesh work well, use star pickets to mount them) something for fault lines (but vision barriers I would priorities over fault lines). If you start to do more then you can consider adding some activated targets (swinger, max trap etc) and some more wall sections with high and low ports.

one important thing despite the miss and NS;s is that overall your shooting cleaned up a lot. much better A% which is pretty important in production. C's are death by a thousand cuts in prod. with 101 A's 20 non-A's (plus 2 NS) that's a much better result that the last match.

very cool!

My experience is like this: I have a 650 setup for 9mm wheb I first tried 38 supercomp brass on it I had a few fly out of the priming station. Fast forward 12mths and probably 20,000 9mm and super loaded and I decided to try supercomp again. It now works flawlessly with the 9mm shell plate, buttons and station 1. My advice: try out the supercomp on your 9mm setup. If it works, great. If not then sure buy the 223 plate etc. i know mainly load supercomp on that 9mm shell plate.

Yep. I am a big dremel gunsmithing fan but for this I'd use: bench grinder or vertical belt sander for the main work shape with hand file finish with fine sandpaper

It's definitely the frame (only) that is cut for the shield. These days many just use shielded safetys. Pt or double tap are both good.

Daa rm or alpha x.

I tend to agree with dan. I've tried the triangle. it's too big and too washed out for me. I don't like it. I also don't want to have to think about using the bottom as an aim point on close stuff, then the whole thing on say 5-25m then use the tip at 25-50m. too complicated and hence too slow. if you like it and you want one then by all means go ahead but I much prefer the dot.

yeah I have 5 RTS2's. I have a couple old slide rides but don't use them anymore. I've shoot a few DPP's in both 2.5 and 7.5moa. do not like the 7.5 at all. it's huge and washed out. the 2.5 is ok. it's bright but it is small. I do really like the RTS2.

if you want big and convenient the best option is the DAA range pack PRO and the cart that goes with it. Cary folds up quickly and folds flat. bag can hold a boat load of junk I have also been one who wanted loads of crud at the range. now I use the GPS tactical range pack (I bought it to take to away matches where flying with the big bag and cart was not practical). I now use the GPS pack nearly all the time. It's so much smaller but still holds what I need. I can still easily take 2 or 3 guns in it. and associated gear. but for max bulk, DAA pack.

I love the SSI scales. fantastic grips with a good shape and the 'pockets' really lock in the meat of your hand. I've also used the LOK's (they are also good) henning (ok) I find the flat aluminium ones too flat/small for average sized hands.

the spacers were necessary because of the 2 ribs that run down each side of the tube. without the spacer the bullet nose would get caught up on the forward most rib. some got around that by loading super long and most others ran a spacer to move the round forward a little in the tube. the SV, SPS, MBX and new STI tubes don't need the spacer as instead of the 2 vertical ribs they have one big on each side (copied from the original design SVI mags). if setup properly all those tubes (SV, SPS, MBX and new STI) should run 9mm just fine.

thanks. no idea where I heard/read that. I have not actually had a chance to try a romeo3 yet.

there is no real sensible choice at the moment other than the mr bullet feeder. the hornady one is a joke by comparison. the mr bullet feeder should work on any press that can accept the standard size reloading dies and that has 1 station free between powder drop and seat/crimp. I highly recommend it.

isn't the romeo3 dot orange? that would be a deal breaker for me.

you are talking about the scope to mount screws yeah? if so do not over tighten. if too tight they will effectively be squeezing the scope body. I use a little blue locktite (medium thread locker) and just do them up fairly snug. I don't have a torque setting but off top of my head something like 8-10 inch/lbs would be sufficient, that is not very much. it's an aluminium body scope. the mount to frame screws though need to be a little tighter. maybe 12-15 inch pounds and red locktite is recommended just be aware you'll likely need to use heat to remove those ones.

I have for a novelty night match. I was shooting a tanfog eric custom at the time. It has scope mount holes on both sides of the frame but only uses the left side. I got these 2 little plastic things that are made to secure cables to a wall with cable ties. Screwed one into the two furthest apart holes. Put light on and secured with 2 cable ties. It worked pretty well.

Yep, I use the prism golf. They do mske 2 'shooting' models in 25 and 45% light transmission. I think for what we do the golf lenses are the best match. From memory they are 30% light transmission. They give an enhanced sense of depth and contrast which is great for practical shooting.