BeerBaron

The CR speed is a great holster but does not have a 'positive' lock. it just puts more tension on when locked. this means you can remove the gun even when 'locked'. in the daa you would have to break the holster or the trigger guard for the gun to come out while locked. I want my lock to be secure. I don't want my gun hitting the deck if someone bumps me while pasting etc.

I wouldn't recommend that in a 2011. in a tanfoflio/cz sure, but in a 2011 if you remove the overtravel stop you may get too much travel. it can cause issues if the trigger bow is hitting the grip safety, over working the leaf spring etc. just wind it out a bit to ensure there is sufficient travel past the break.

the CK C/P cut has the lissner radius on it too. in fact most people now doing the C/P frames and barrels are really the L/C/P cut they just call it C/P.

it looks like it may be a cone comp. interesting gun. my only concern would be slide as those cuts basically go right across the top with little meat left in the middle. otherwise it's a 2011 with a decent comp and accurails. not much has really changed in 2011's since the 90s. a few small parts and niceties but nothing major. no reason it couldn't be a competitive gun. I agree I'd suggest see if you can handle it and shoot it before deciding. I think it's pretty good value.

I switched from a 90 cmore to RTS2 for 2 reasons. one was the thumb crowding on the left of the gun became annoying an second reason was the crappy zeroing method with slide rides just bending the plastic 'hinge' not giving very precise or repeatable adjustment. I would say dot height from lowest to highest is: 90 cmore, RTS2, DPP, upright cmore. with mounts being equal the DPP will be a little higher as it's body is thicker. the caveat is that some mounts are taller or shorter than others AND this will also be affected by the hole position in your frame. some are drilled slightly higher or lower. My switch from 90 cmore to upright RTS2 was painless. I don't notice any height increase at all. I have one RTS2 in 8MOA and one in 6MOA and trying to decide which I like most before I buy 2 more of them. I 'thought' I preferred the 8 Moa but the 6 is growing on me. One other thing I found. I regularly see the Cmore slide ride lease size quoted as 29mm diameter. I measured one and the actual glass diameter is more like 26mm. The bezel may be 29mm but the glass is not. So the lens size reduction is not as big as you might think.

I would go double stack. I prefer the double stack mags and the grip. It also gives you the ability to late change grip options between plastic, aluminium, steel, titanium and grip shape, reduction, stipple, silicone carbide, build it up etc. I would go with a 4.5inch gun. probably not a ported barrel but a comp (like aircooledracers for example). Bull barrel Heavily cut up slide trip top, windows in the side cut the crap out of the rear like the M2i gun pictured above. get the slide down around 8oz. I think you could get it even lighter. My SVI mid length major PF gun is 8.2oz and still has meat that could be removed in the rear. One way to get it light is sleeve the barrel (or run one of the 'full profile' bull barrels that don't taper). to fit that you need to tunnel bore the slide out to 0.70 (or whatever the particular barrel diameter is) and that removes more weight. I'd probably even run an aluminium comp (or titanium) to keep it fast to point. all the usual tricks, profiled firing pin stop, beveled leading edge of the breach face etc etc to get it running nice and smoothly with low powered loads.

you can tune the 650 so that no powder spills. I have gone up as high as 10.4gn of 3N38 in 38 super with no powder spill and no need to slow down. the key is: roller bearing with a washer on top under the shell plate bolt head cut 1/2 coil from detent ball spring use delrin detent ball spend time tuning the shell plate bolt tension to be juuuuust right. it does take 5-10 min to get a shell plate that still moves freely but has no jerk when indexing. yes N105 fills the case too. it's a good thing.

Start at 9.5gn of n105 with a 124gn rn @ 1.240 oal. Work up from there.

The lisner improved c/p cut is my preference. As above check what cut your preferred barrel option is available with.

I can't believe they blued a high end limited run gun when the 'stock' version of that model is hard chrome with tin barrel?!? the two tone looks bizarre. They put black controls on it then slapped on a silver magwell? Looks like a parts bin special. It's a shame as I like to concept but it would look awesome with all black parts and gold barrel or hard chrome with silver parts and black barrel. Another missed opportunity...

Yes. There's a closed end and open end. Closed end goes to the rear.

3n38 and n105 are my two favourites by far for 38 super.

I've handled a pt evo but not shot one. I think is a very nice product. Sv should also be able to sell you a grip that fits if you tell them you have an older sv with plastic grip. Ill probably go ck grip on my sv as my other 2 open guns already have that grip. At this point it'd be pretty pricey to swap all 3 to a pt. but I do think the pt is a better product. Try and handle one if you can. Not everyone likes the really aggressive texture.

9.6 is a stout load but no where near a full case. I've loaded 10.4gn of 3N38 in supercomp. still able to load as short as 1.240 without compressed load issues.

actually particularly in something like a trubor with heavy steel comp having the comp touch the GR when out of battery is a good thing. otherwise the comp can 'nose down' which puts strain on the link. the guiderod tip limits the down travel of the comp. too much interference is not good, but they usually do touch.

Clearance to the barrel you can't really measure you just need 'some' clearance. You can can take out the recoil system then re-assemble the gun. As you move the slide into battery you'll be able to see and feel if it's touching the barrel. You can also use some layout fluid/dyekem on the barrel to see if they are touching. The clearance to the fps is critical because for the front of the aftec to move the rear has to move. It kind of pivots at the spring cap. So when the hook moves out to clear the case rim the rear end moves in a little. The fps fps clearance is mainly achieved by bevelling/chamfering both sides of the edge that rides in the extractor slot. The fps itself still won't move as it's locked in by the channel on the left and by the channel above and below the extractor tunnel.

Yeah it reminds me of those vids of marines doing field strip drills putting their sidearms back together in seconds. Its a race against the clock. i like to have a second pair of hands because it sets up so fast. If something goes bad you have someone to help wipe stuff etc if needed.

2011 with CK mount (RTS2). yep underside of the rear of the mount and the back part of the optic base are BLACK. top of the slide there gets black too. it's not a timing problem. gas comes out there during ejection.

I agree. there is best practice. then there is best method taking into account current skill level. it's a bit like shooting on the move. in certain cases it's the most efficient way through the stage. but for a shooter without solid hit quality while moving they may be better to post up, shoot, then haul to next position and repeat. a GM may not stop walking the whole stage and shoot it all moving. There is a guy from Australia (10 round country) who shoots open. Brodie. He shot at the 2014 WS (came 3rd in open behind Max and Shane). through necessity as an open shooter in 10 round land he has amazing hand speed on his reloads. much like Jake mentioned he is reloading WITHIN the first step of movement. He is so fast I doubt his reloads are delaying his position exit much at all. maybe a couple tenths if that vs moving without the reload. I have no idea how much reload practice he's done to get to that level but I'd say his match pace reloads are solid 0.8s and possibly faster when pushing. There is not much vid of him around the net but if you see him shoot at an international match or find a video he is great to watch. He's also inspiring as a 100% amateur shooter competing at the top level. There is basically no such thing as a pro shooter in Australia. He has some sponsors who provide small support (discounts, maybe projies etc) but he pays his own way for the most part and has a full time (non shooting related) job that limits how much money and time he has for practice. Considering he can hang with guys who've been through AMU etc and are full time shooting it shows where dedication to something you love can take you.

I have a few but for one pistol I actually like the double alpha slim case. it's super small and fits nicely into your suitcase. https://www.doublealpha.biz/daa-thin-pistol-case?osCsid=3c0e5287de6a37bf183353ab0b7f4fc2 I can even fit my open 2011 in there (tight fit) and you could probably get 2 production guns in it. being small it doesn't have much protection/padding so it's only useful as an 'inside the suitcase' hard case. the suitcase will cushion it anyway so I hate big bulky ones.

Nice of you to share.

Dude! Holy necro post!!! The last post in this thread was 8 years ago buddy. Most of the guys in this thread are in retirement now! Ps Matt Chet excepted.

The sti stinger is kind of a predecessor to the steel master. It's a short barrel open gun which is not ideal for ipsc. They stopped making them in 2008 so the used one is 9 years old at best likely 10+. For a a little more money I'd strongly suggest a new or used trubor or dvc. Look at what most guys are using. I can promise you you won't see many stingers or bull open guns. Another budget option is the sps vista which I think is a better 'budget' open gun. The downside is they only offer the short barrel model in 9mm. The full size is available only in 38 super. I personally prefer super but I know many prefer 9 for cost reasons. So id say: 9mm trubor (new or used) 9mm dvc open (new or used) sps vista 38 super (new) open is great fun. I would never discourage someone from trying it. The guns run fine if the ammo is well made and the gun setup right and well maintained.

Eric, your comp looks cool tri-topped. The unique baffle shape looks even more interesting with the corners cut off. i will try one one day.

I must be a freak. I've never had that problem loading many thousands of 9mm and 38 super. In fact I even use the large case feed plate though they reccomend the small. My bench is fairly solid (big thick 3 inch solid timber top on steel frame) but it's not bolted to wall or floor. My press is not even on the 'strong' mount. It's not even bolted to the bench. It's bolted to a big piece of pine sleeper which is clamped to the bench with 2 F clamps. To make things worse it has a bullet feeder hanging off it which you'd think would make it sway more. But it being mounted to a solid board on solid bench helps a lot. I've never had the log jam/brass waterfall. I have had a case not drop and stop the disk when it got caught between disk and case feed wall. I'd say that happens once in about 10,000 cases. There are no extra wipers or add ons and I haven't had to close down the opening size. It just works. I suspect ones that have this problem may be mounted slightly off axis or some manufacturing tolerance is out.